Wristpin

Right area but more round the cylinder fins the head. If the engine is back on the machine fitting the screw will require patience and dexterity as it will be right under the the cylinder. the circular cutouts go round the intake manifold between the carburettor and the block.

Cats in particular are a pain in the A***,  there are three or for belonging to neighbours , some from quite a distance away , that transit through my garden an poo at will . Two nights ago a badger dug out a bumble bee’s nest in the back lawn leaving a hole about the size of two footballs.
Nature in the raw!

Your strange connection is an Earth / ground that should have a loop terminal to be clamped under a suitable screw.
Your first image is of the coil armature and unless my eyes deceive me it is on back to front - may be not?

Unfortunately the guy that I gave the charts to has dumped them. However I’ve spoken to a friend who worked for both Westwood and Countax. The shredded was made by Countax before they made tractors of their own but made most of Westwood ‘s accessories.
The mounting brackets etc were a dealer fit and he recalls that there were two or possibly three brackets to suit different configurations of tractor. He thinks that the belt could have been a B section cogged one.
 
 

We used to service one or may be two tractors that had the bracket etc but never saw the shredder itself. I gave a former employee all my Westwood belt charts but I will ask him if he still has them.

We used to service one or may be two tractors that had the bracket etc but never saw the shredder itself. I gave a former employee all my Westwood belt charts but I will ask him if he still has them.

Foote were also used in the Ariens YT tractors in the 80s. We used to open them up and replace the grease adding a bit of semi fluid grease to ensure that it moved around in side the box rather than form a mould around the gears.  I believe that Foot ceased production following a major fire at their factory. The box used in the YTs was a three speed and reverse plus a high and low range change giving 6 and 2.

Sometimes, the fuel filters do appear to be empty but fuel is actually flowing through them. Pull the pipe off the carburettor inlet and hold it over a suitable receptacle and with the tap (if fitted) turned on, and the tank cap in place watch the flow for at least half a minute . If the flow slows or stops repeat with the tank cap loosened or removed. If that improves things, check the breather hole in the cap.  Blowing back into the tank outlet may improve things but the crud is still in there waiting to do it again. If that's the cause  take the tank off and flush it properly. 

Assuming that by gearbox you are referring to the chain case , the answer is yes, BUT look at the attached IPLs and it would appear that there are two designs of chain case . The one specifically for the De Luxe appears to just have a felt washer as an oil seal and looks as though it can be accessed by removing a circlip and a steel washer, but if the bearing has failed that could be more complicated as it appears to be a welded chain case assembly and a special bearing puller will be needed. 
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x5je16slddhk3zq/Qualcast Cultimatic0002.pdf?dl=0
 

Sieves ? A Yorkshire term for rushes?   Wiki wasn't much help ! 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sieve 

Re chroming aside I often used to compensate for the wear in  the Hayter lever and the similar one on the old belt driven Webb 24” machine.
It’s usually the ” anvil “ in the lever body that wears so file it square to make a little flat platform . Then drill the platform to accept a tiny BA  screw. Reassemble the lever drilling or reaming out the pivot bolt hole to take a slightly larger pivot bolt and test the locking. Usually it won’t lock because the BD screw head is a bit too large. Carefully file a bit off and try again  - until it locks .
Back in the day I had a supply of the little drive rivets that Hayter used for securing the serial number plates on various machines but they are no longer available , so a tiny BA screw has to do.

Like the hub puller; just like pulling the track sprocket on a D8, but the can take two big pepper pot  burners and a 150 ton ram!

if you are stuck removing them...
 
here is the easy way, though this one needed 6 tons and a lot of heat!
 
 

32 was the greatest number of thorns that I pulled out of a customer’s tyre a few years ago when he complained that the tyre sealant wasn’t working ! I laid them out in a line on a piece of card with a strip of clear tape over them  and presented it to him with the bill.
 
*********
Safety issue . Never inflate a tyre on the flat , especially with your face immediately above it. Stand the wheel on edge at “ right angles” in front of you . That way if the tire blows off the rim it goes left or right  and not back at you.  

Circa = about or roughly.

32 was the greatest number of thorns that I pulled out of a customer’s tyre a few years ago when he complained that the tyre sealant wasn’t working ! I laid them out in a line on a piece of card with a strip of clear tape over them  and presented it to him with the bill.
 
*********
Safety issue . Never inflate a tyre on the flat , especially with your face immediately above it. Stand the wheel on edge at “ right angles” in front of you . That way if the tire blows off the rim it goes left or right  and not back at you.  

32 was the greatest number of thorns that I pulled out of a customer’s tyre a few years ago when he complained that the tyre sealant wasn’t working ! I laid them out in a line on a piece of card with a strip of clear tape over them  and presented it to him with the bill.
 
*********
Safety issue . Never inflate a tyre on the flat , especially with your face immediately above it. Stand the wheel on edge at “ right angles” in front of you . That way if the tire blows off the rim it goes left or right  and not back at you.  

Great job  on the bonnets - a work of art.

Thanks to all for looking but as time was moving on I got the welding gear out, made shaped paper templates , cut the sheet steel and stitched it in . A bit of a faff but got there eventually.
 
 
09CB57EA-B035-408E-A74F-0592215D7A02.MOV

Thanks to all for looking but as time was moving on I got the welding gear out, made shaped paper templates , cut the sheet steel and stitched it in . A bit of a faff but got there eventually.
 
 
09CB57EA-B035-408E-A74F-0592215D7A02.MOV

Thanks to all for looking but as time was moving on I got the welding gear out, made shaped paper templates , cut the sheet steel and stitched it in . A bit of a faff but got there eventually.
 
 
09CB57EA-B035-408E-A74F-0592215D7A02.MOV

As far as I know the 7J D4 was built in the US between 1939 and 1943. The first D4D was not made until 1963 with a series number starting 78A. The D4D, series 88A,  was being built in Glasgow when I worked there in 1965.

I've been doing an engine overhaul on  a 1980s Tecumseh 7hp iron block vertical shaft engine for another forum member; valves, ignition, charging system etc and just when I thought that I was nearing the end I've found that some vandal has carved a chunk out of the air cleaner backplate and canister. Those parts were still current on Atco 24s etc using the horizontal shaft Tecumseh H50/60 right up to the 1990s so there should be a few around, but not, it appears, in the UK . In the USA, yes, with the appropriate carriage, duty and vat etc., but not over here.   
If anyone has a backplate and canister to sell, please contact me - all reasonable expenses paid .  Otherwise I will have to get the welding gear out, not really my forte!

Thank you. Those dimensions are spot on. I will give Bearing Boys a ring on Monday.
AS

Suggest that you disconnect the red wire from the solenoid terminal that points toward the rear of the tractor. Make sure that it doesn’t touch earth just in case it’s live - it shouldn’t be. Set the multimeter to volts and ensuring that the ignition switch is off with the key removed,  check for a reading - there should not be. Turn the key to On , there should still be no reading. Turn the key to Start  and there should be battery voltage. Release the key and the voltage should disappear . Go between On and Start several times and make sure that the voltage always disappears when the key is released.  If all the above are ok it is probably ok to assume that all is well. However if voltage does not disappear when the key is released I would suspect the ignition switch or a wiring fault.
Remove the earth cable from the battery and then all cables from the solenoid. Set the meter to Continuity and check between the two heavy terminals there should be no continuity. If there is it is possible that there is a mechanical fault within the solenoid but your substitution should have already eliminated that.