Going by the engine serial number (#023390) your engine was made sometime towards the latter end of 1962.
On 7/25/2020 at 12:46 AM, art faulkner said:
seems like the tiger is operating at full rpm 6300 and voltage at 135 plus, ether the vane is not working or is this normal?
That seems fine if there is no load on the generator, you quickly get to know if the vane isn't working as the engine will runaway at a silly speed & eventually overheat, I had this problem with a governor vane that kept falling out of the hole in the carb butterfly.
Those are old ones, just don't know how old and if you have anything you value but don't use very often don't leave the batteries in it, most brands seem to leak these days, the well known black & copper colour* ones & no-name cheapo batteries are the worst offenders in the UK in my opinion.
*I've seen these leaking still sealed in the packaging.
Electrical isn’t my strong suit but I put my meter on it and here are some of the numbers:
2.67 k Ohms
0.07 Ohm
Those readings are fine for an earlier style coil, somewhere between 2kΩ to 3kΩ for the secondary (HT) coil winding is what I would expect (or 6kΩ to 7kΩ for the later coils).
That explains what Danarm were importing & rebranding, it's a Grow Gear trimmer with a planetary gear box (not the same as Orline, etc), see the Grow Gear advert part way down the page here;
The fuel tank is plastic & fits the two smaller holes on the gearbox.
My later Grow-Gear for comparison (has different handle but other-wise the same).
Correct the early governor vane without adjustment will operate the engine at a fixed speed. As a consequence if the generator only has a small load then the voltage will be a higher than with a full load, this won't bother equipment designed to operate over a wider voltage range (check appliance labels), but will shorten the life of filament lamps due to the higher voltage (they will run brighter though).
Got the tank cleaned out today and I am repairing were the battery acid
melted the plastic on the lower screw that holds it to the tank. ( best to take the battery's out
The battery acid seems to eat in to the plastic.
Nasty stuff, I had to take mine apart to remove two rotten batteries (who knows how old they are) which had rusted to the terminals, maybe Union Carbide would like to send me a new Creme Lure generator.
Make sure you clean all the rust off from the terminals as at this low voltage corrosion makes a lot of difference (create resistance).
The plastic on these seems to have aged badly on all of these generators I've seen.
No need to post the same request twice in two days, they aren't that common, possibly no one on here has one they want to part with, I haven't got any early TAS engines in my collection yet, only a later & much larger one.
A similar style carb is used on my 1.5HP Fuji (FMC) kit engines, but it does look a bit little larger.
No I hadn't, mainly due to the round ones being available in more sizes, I spent quite a bit of time one day (while I was furloughed from work) measuring parts and searching through data-sheets to find the nearest sizes, then ordered them all individually from one supplier.
You've just rebuilt a later Comet C/Saw, did you not note the engine Type (I can't see it clearly in any of your pictures)?
I found this engine in my archived Comet pictures; with the correct stop switch, notches in the mounting flanges & no hole in the carb for the air cleaner screw, it's also a Type 110.
The grainy low resolution picture from a manual I have (not mine) gives; Type 96 for the circular saw, Type 113 for the chainsaw, Type 100 for the drill and Type 109 for the pump. Earlier ones may use a letter type instead (my pump uses a Model B for example).
It probably is from a the circular saw, a later one without the extra long tube for the muffler and the added switch to compensate for the not having the remote handle mounted one. I just don't have any pictures showing the Type as it's usually inaccessible to take a picture.
It is model #111 sn #023390 the idle adjustment is on top of carburetor between diaphram and motor, it is a small spring loaded lever that adjusts the govenor, located on the side of the carburetor, the serial # of the power unit is 07461, the
unit runs fine, and generates but need to control rpm, tks
Earlier engines fitted to Tiny Tigers such as yours (#023390) & mine (#036839, picture of carb attached) don't have the governor adjustment control lever. If you want to add this then searching for a later carb is the only answer, just be aware there are two different springs used over the years depending on the governor vane size.
5 hours ago, art faulkner said:
the other thing that concerns me, since there is no voltage regulator, rpms control the voltage? the instructions say to hook up to 300 watt light bulb and adjust the idle screw to maintain that value. tks
That part with the 300 Watt load is to set the needle valve, not the idle stop screw.
I'm currently experimenting with O rings as replacements for all the shaft seals (not suitable for very late engines with non-replaceable seals though).
Can you add some pictures of the carb from your Tiny Tiger, they vary quite a bit depending on the age, early ones don't have the little adjustment lever for example.
The stop switch ground wire goes to one of the screws for the starter housing/cover. The other wire goes to where the brass tab switch is normally fitted.
Kind of hard to tell without seeing inside the carb, the service info suggest that carbs with the external check valve on the inlet contain the diaphragm arm with the rubber pad.
Yes of course it does. But I have no idea how to post any on here. I click on the add image thing & it says something about a url. I am embarrassed to say I don't know what that is.
If you are using a PC with Windows then this thread may help:
Not sure about adding pictures using Android devices as I don't like using the small screen for the web and I can't help with Apple "I" thingies as I don't have any.
I think the induction vane unit is shot, looks like the little plastic arms have deformed (probably due to the 120 summers here in AZ) and don’t seal anymore. Hopefully I have one in the used spares that will work. Will this one work or is it too bad to put back in?
At least try cleaning it first, I've had some where dirt was keeping those plastic reeds open and some that never seem to want to sit flat no matter what I do.
Sometimes a parts engine can provide a replacement, note that there are differences depending on the bearing/shaft size fitted (you probably know this by now).
Well that's a new low for those, I hadn't seen one sell for less than $51 before (and that wasn't new condition either), it goes to show some sellers don't bother to research the value of what they are listing.
Absolute steal if you got it for that price.
NOS and or Used parts trade
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Going by the engine serial number (#023390) your engine was made sometime towards the latter end of 1962.
That seems fine if there is no load on the generator, you quickly get to know if the vane isn't working as the engine will runaway at a silly speed & eventually overheat, I had this problem with a governor vane that kept falling out of the hole in the carb butterfly.
David