factory

John, I'm going to add the brochure pdf's to the manual thread, would it be best if I removed them from the other threads as they have used up all Daren's free storage space a lot quicker than normal. David

Oh dear, the wires with old crumbly perished rubber insulation, the last one I worked on was so bad I ended up sleeving all of the alternator wires with heat-shrink tubing. The wiring for the 110V outlet isn't made from rubber & didn't need sleeving. David

There are gaps in the service bulletins I have, that must be one of the missing ones, also I have none later than SE103. The only double I've seen so far is the one on Webhead's Orline Chromer chainsaw; David

That's exactly what I'm going to use it for, I have a NOS Tillotson carb from Webhead and the correct induction housing to fit it to the crankcase I just found, it's saved me having to modify one of the complete engines from my collection, I'm going to see if I can build the engine from my spares, I think I have everything apart from the later style starter. The pictures of your engine are a great help to see which parts are used. David

Well I think I've found why that O&R double diaphragm pump assembly isn't seen, it's part no. #400016 which is shown on some parts list dating from Jan 1970. It looks to have been quietly dropped from use, as the master price list supplement from Apr 1971 says to use part no. #400175 (no description of the part), but I found a picture of this part I saved from the web and surprise surprise it's a standard diaphragm pump assembly. David

See post #6 on the previous page, it's for the tube going to the fuel pump on the Tillotson carb which uses pulses from the crankcase. It's possibly also used for the rarely seen O&R carb with the double diaphragm (anyone got one they want to sell?), maybe most got converted back to a standard carb & the hole blocked up. By the way I found a second crankcase with the same blocked port, at least one of them looks to have come from a chainsaw. David

I've had a TT400 on the back burner for a very long time, the engine got rebuilt but I now can't get to the lathe to machine a new screw for the alternator, it's longer the standard TT uses BTW. I've been busy with selling & packing things (non-O&R related) since the last cheap listing weekend on ePay. David

The estimate for this engine is early 1963, that is a nice clean engine which has probably not been run very much or possibly never used. David

Is the second digit of the serial number a 5? The date estimate for this one would be sometime around 1963. After Oct 1963 the engines had needle bearings for the gudgeon pin & should have steel cages for the bearings (but not always), the primer button was introduced at the same time, but these were available as a kit for fitting to older engines so aren't too helpful for the engine date. Keep the tank bracket if you remove it, also it could be useful to someone else it you don't want it, I can't quite make out the letter stamped into the other side of the crankcase, this would tell you which type of gearbox was originally fitted, the housing is one side of that gearbox. David

We can only estimate the date for this engine*, it was made sometime between 1964 & 1965, possibly around mid to late 1964, the reed valve if original would have the plastic reed material, this was used from serial 066809, before that they used a metal reed. *Before June 1967 the serial numbers were sequential with no date coded into them, from June 1967 all serial numbers have the year & month coded into them, the format is YMSSSS or YMMSSSS, first number identifies the year, second (and third) number/s the month, the remaining four numbers are engine S/N which restarted at 0001 each month. David

From the serial number 93xxxx the engine dates from March 1969, in August of that year they stopped stamping the serial number into the crankcase and instead put it on the cylinder cooling baffle (not fitted on this engine), which are often taken off & go missing. Very nice engine by the way, you've reminded me I need to fit the Octura carb & exhaust to mine, it's not the V8 exhaust though. David

I've been sorting all the various boxes of incomplete engines & parts over the weekend, I came across the remains of what I think was a chainsaw engine, with a crankcase that will be very useful for building the trimmer engine from the spares I have. Someone had tried to fill in the crankcase port with a solder blob , I soon got rid of that, something that may not be obvious from the pictures is that the port goes in at an angle to avoid the crankcase mounting holes. David

Is the Turbair box something you bought recently, or found while searching in the shed? I have a similar box but it's so mouldy it's kept inside another box, I did clean up the spare bottle that came with it & sent that to Wallfish to complete his sprayer. I've got no idea if the box can be cleaned without destroying it. David

A quick update of the coil repair, the correct HT lead arrived last week and over the weekend I have re-wired the coil. Just a note the plastic of the coil is very brittle where the cable exits the coil (I accidentality dropped it ), I had to repair that damage first before I could fit the new copper core HT lead, it took two days to allow time for the araldite to set properly. David P.S. Bonus pictures of the bare coil being tested on a 1962 HP tube voltmeter, which got repaired while I was waiting for the new HT lead to arrive, I need to find some of those nice long narrow croc clips for the more modern meters.

Would you like these adding to the manuals/literature thread? I can turn the pictures into a pdf too, note the resolution of pictures in threads is limited to keep running costs down. Also nice to see the 1969 price list has the rotary valve & other upgrades for the O&R Compact engine. David

Nearly right then. Maybe it would go with your water-cooled O&R engine, just need the rest of the boat to go with it. David

Going by the weights given in the manual, the engine (3¾lb) & two alternators (6½lb each) would cost somewhere around $120 to ship over, how close am I? It's difficult to estimate the packaging weight. What is the little propeller from, in the fourth picture from the first post? David

Here is how I now use the cylinder removal tool, I found it too easy to bend the small bar I used previously, a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) makes it much easier to undo or tighten the cylinder, I use offcuts of plywood to protect the crankcase being marked by the vice jaws. David

The wiring is your choice, as soon as you disturb/separate the rear section they all crack or crumble to bits. The bearing should be fine as long as it is free from rust & spins freely, I can't imagine any of these got used for long enough to wear the bearings at all. David

The steering strut, drive shaft, prop & large fin, are listed as being for both the White Heat V & X in the May 1966 price list. But the V8 style exhaust is different for the V & X (60° for the V & 90° for the X). David

The rebuild thread for the TT350 from @Wallfish is here; Also the original Tiny Tiger manual (Model 5001-1, 5001-2 & 67) with service information can be found in the manuals sticky thread, it could also be useful for the older TT Model 300. Could be the magnetism of the rotor, the rear section (with the connectors/socket) needs to come off with the middle section (alternator windings). The little cover hides the screw & bearing for the rotor, I've never needed to remove the cover to separate the generator section. David

The May 1966 price list only mentions plans for the White Heat V, X, 60 & 30. But the price list & newsletters do mention other White Heat hulls, there are motor/engine mounts & parts for the XV & XIV, plus the 4-60 mentioned in a newsletter. They also advertised kits for the UK made Aerokits Sea Queen cruiser and plans for the Underhill sea-going tug (suitable for gas, steam or electric power). The Octura 1965 catalog is full of casting kits for various miniature gas & steam engines, books and a range of Stuart engines (& accessories) available in kit form or ready built. No O&R's or boats in the main catalog. Maybe @CNew can see if there are any other boats in the more recent Octura catalogues & price list he has. David

Apologies for the delay with the coil, the cable supplier sent me fibre cored HT lead by mistake (totally useless for O&R coils), I now waiting for the replacement tinned copper core HT lead to arrive. David

That White Heat V looks suspiciously like Webhead's. I'll get the O&R relevant bits on the scanner at some point and let you know when they are added to the manuals thread. David

Quote below from this Chip-A-Saw thread: https://myoldmachine.com/topic/6402-ohlsson-rice-chip-a-saw-gets-a-new-life/ What did you end up using for the Bowden conduit? David