factory

The tank bracket (for using a standard round tank) with the 90 degree twist is part no. #97-25, the ex-drill tank looks good too. I can't confirm this, but if the engine parts list (Type 246) is correct, then the early outboard motor did use a standard round tank with the #97-25 bracket and no fragile plastic cover. Other things to note: no stop/kill switch is fitted, the air filter assembly is not used (it has a plastic cover with metal gauze insert instead) and the condenser is fitted to the large cylinder baffle. David

IMO they look better without the plastic cover. But if it does have one, it's good to keep it original. You could always keep a lookout for the other version and have one original & one without the plastic cover, they are much easier to find in the US than over here. Only the early covers have the threads on the covers. The majority will have the threads on the plates and the screw heads facing the recoil. Mustang style chainsaws have the threads on the tank and the cover and plate don't have threads. A previous owner probably put those screws back that way as that's how they were originally fitted on the Aquabug (well 4 out of 5 of them) and didn't realise they could go in from the other side, but they must have noticed the starter was very loose as a result . The screws are often the shortened & fitted the normal way too, this can be bad for the paintwork on the starter, as the Aquabug used screws with larger heads. David

I save what I can from ePay (can't find stuff listed on other selling sites though) as they can be used for reference & research, unfortunately I have missed saving some stuff recently due to the difficult time following my Mum passing. This might be useful to you, it's the manual that came with the Perry Aquabug's (re-brand) I bought, now added to the manuals sticky thread in Section 4 (it was posted on one of the other threads in the past); David

Well four (longer) screws did originally go in that way and dome nuts held on the plastic cover. These are the ones I ordered for my Aquabug's, I had to buy another dozen as they were too short , I also sent a set to Paul for his Aquabug restoration. David

I'm sure I've posted this service bulletin somewhere here before; Don't say you weren't warned. David

David

You must have missed the service information for both the 20A engine and Challenger chainsaw I scanned & posted here ; Section 2 has the "Model 20A Maintenance Manual" and Section 3 has the "Orline Challenger Chain Saw manual". Hope these help and yes a set of new crankcase seals & gaskets are required. David

Seems I saved pictures of your Aquabug, it had the bent rod for supporting the plastic tank and all the starter cover screws fitted in the back of the magneto plate, as it would have had the fibreglass/plastic cover too. To use a standard round tank you would need a different tank bracket, with a 90 degree bend in it to allow the tank cap to face up, example below; David

Have you got a Model H or Type 195 engine? A base mount gas tank could be used with these engines. The Orline version used a 1700 RPM Type 216 engine, which is almost the same as the Type 195, apart from the position of the gas tank. David

That is an earlier speedy sprayer, both this version and the later one (as used with the Orline version) were sold without the electric motor, the mounting holes with adjustment for the compressor, allowed fitting for most 1/4 HP electric motors. David

I was looking at that but when holding it up to the saw, the guard opening is centered when it's on the outside, plus there's less places to deflect sparks and collect dust so I assumed it might go on the outside. Was wondering how long it would take the factory correct police to catch me! Not long, I'm a horrible criminal Amazingly the extra guard piece is not shown in either the parts list or brochure leaflet, I only have pictures of three other Orline Circular Saws, it's only visible in this one (where it's fitted to the outside of the guard) link below; It's hidden by the blade in the pictures of the other two saws I have. Also the brochure confirms the blade size as 8" (same size as used on the Comet C/Saw), both an abrasive wheel and saw blade were available for the Orline Saw. David

I went though all the service information I have and posted detailed lists for the gaskets & O rings used for the chainsaws, the gas & oil tank caps for the older ones had the flat washer seal and the later ones changed to using the O rings (post no #10). I have a kit of Facom gasket punches (with a compass based blade for cutting larger sizes) that can be used to make the round gaskets, it was bought from a business liquidator on ePay many years ago for under half it's normal price. David

Not sure of this manufacturer for the carb. Maybe @Webhead knows? The carb looks identical to those used on the Du-Bro helicopters, I've never found out if Du-Bro made or bought them in. The engine definitely isn't from a helicopter as they had a few mods & didn't have the holes drilled for the magneto coil. Quite a few water-cooled "converted" engines have appeared in the UK, all slightly different from one another. David

Excellent detective work Clint, looking at the lawn edger in the link and comparing it with the two Type 98 engines, it looks to be a match for both the color and the mounting flange used on the red engine. I'm slowly trying to get back to normal, been away from here for far too long and have quite a bit of catching up to do. David

I've moved the posts about the Drillgine parts to a new thread here: David

Probably a bit late (I had to take a break following a bereavement), the needle valve assembly is very easy to break if overtightened due to being made from thin sections of brass. I'll have a look at mine to see if it uses the standard clip for the throttle cable. David P.S. I've moved these posts about the Drillgine parts from the TT thread to this new thread.

Hope every things ok. Sometime we need to do things for one reason or another. best wishes. I'm OK, been very busy and had other things on my mind following a family bereavement, I've got a lot of catching up to do now. David

That looks very nice, it's the Orline rebrand of the Varo Amp Champ, it should have the Varo details ground off on the generator. They look home-made to me, I can't help thinking if O&R or Varo had supplied those leads they would have crimped the wire directly to the alligator clips. David

Here are some of the pictures saved from the ebay listing, together with some of my Orline Gusher pump. Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump / MINI one-by-one water pump. Orline Gusher pump Model 570. David

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. I've moved the post about the Lancaster Pump from the Aquabug thread to here. I never saw it either, not been on ebay the last week either, hopefully someone on here got it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193236843806 It appears to be the Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump or MINI one-by-one water pump that we hadn't seen before (at the time this thread was created), by the way this pump is more commonly known as the Orline Gusher pump sold by O&R. David

I've moved the post about a Lancaster pump here; David

Service bulletin SE-063 gives a cylinder to crankcase torque of 25 - 30ft. lbs. but there is no mention of how they do this using the cylinder removal tool. With new exhaust collector gaskets it should just be possible to turn the exhaust collector for positioning after the cylinder is tightened. David

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. The service instructions gave information on how to make a cylinder removal tool, there is a thread on here where I posted about it. I've since found it easier to hold the engine block using a vice (with soft jaws) and to use what you guys call a 'crescent wrench' (or adjustable spanner in UK) to turn the bar I made, I found the round bar used was too easy to bend if the cylinder was very tight, also didn't fancy turning any of my screwdrivers into banana shapes. Making the cylinder removal bar longer than needed also allows you to file/shorten it when it wears on the edges. Note; Never attempt to unscrew the cylinder if the piston is stuck from dried out oil residue, doing so can cause the con-rod to bend & break. The slot in the top of the cylinder should either be parallel with the engine crankshaft or at 90 degrees to it, @Wallfish has already mentioned this and the service info posted by @JUST O&R also mentions it. David

That price seems excessive to me, it doesn't have any extras like the manual, original box.... or the required (a spark). David

You say it revved up before shutting down, did it rev higher than normal speed? If it happens again once you've rebuilt the generator check the governor vane hasn't fallen out of the butterfly valve in the carb. I had this happen with my first TT (Tiny Tor), the cause was the governor vane being bent in the wrong direction and it kept falling out. The early governor vane should sit up as shown below, if it's more towards the flywheel then it's bent. Note: the governor vanes vary a little depending on the age of the engine. David