factory

I was looking at that but when holding it up to the saw, the guard opening is centered when it's on the outside, plus there's less places to deflect sparks and collect dust so I assumed it might go on the outside. Was wondering how long it would take the factory correct police to catch me! Not long, I'm a horrible criminal Amazingly the extra guard piece is not shown in either the parts list or brochure leaflet, I only have pictures of three other Orline Circular Saws, it's only visible in this one (where it's fitted to the outside of the guard) link below; It's hidden by the blade in the pictures of the other two saws I have. Also the brochure confirms the blade size as 8" (same size as used on the Comet C/Saw), both an abrasive wheel and saw blade were available for the Orline Saw. David

I went though all the service information I have and posted detailed lists for the gaskets & O rings used for the chainsaws, the gas & oil tank caps for the older ones had the flat washer seal and the later ones changed to using the O rings (post no #10). I have a kit of Facom gasket punches (with a compass based blade for cutting larger sizes) that can be used to make the round gaskets, it was bought from a business liquidator on ePay many years ago for under half it's normal price. David

Not sure of this manufacturer for the carb. Maybe @Webhead knows? The carb looks identical to those used on the Du-Bro helicopters, I've never found out if Du-Bro made or bought them in. The engine definitely isn't from a helicopter as they had a few mods & didn't have the holes drilled for the magneto coil. Quite a few water-cooled "converted" engines have appeared in the UK, all slightly different from one another. David

Excellent detective work Clint, looking at the lawn edger in the link and comparing it with the two Type 98 engines, it looks to be a match for both the color and the mounting flange used on the red engine. I'm slowly trying to get back to normal, been away from here for far too long and have quite a bit of catching up to do. David

I've moved the posts about the Drillgine parts to a new thread here: David

Probably a bit late (I had to take a break following a bereavement), the needle valve assembly is very easy to break if overtightened due to being made from thin sections of brass. I'll have a look at mine to see if it uses the standard clip for the throttle cable. David P.S. I've moved these posts about the Drillgine parts from the TT thread to this new thread.

Hope every things ok. Sometime we need to do things for one reason or another. best wishes. I'm OK, been very busy and had other things on my mind following a family bereavement, I've got a lot of catching up to do now. David

That looks very nice, it's the Orline rebrand of the Varo Amp Champ, it should have the Varo details ground off on the generator. They look home-made to me, I can't help thinking if O&R or Varo had supplied those leads they would have crimped the wire directly to the alligator clips. David

Here are some of the pictures saved from the ebay listing, together with some of my Orline Gusher pump. Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump / MINI one-by-one water pump. Orline Gusher pump Model 570. David

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. I've moved the post about the Lancaster Pump from the Aquabug thread to here. I never saw it either, not been on ebay the last week either, hopefully someone on here got it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193236843806 It appears to be the Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump or MINI one-by-one water pump that we hadn't seen before (at the time this thread was created), by the way this pump is more commonly known as the Orline Gusher pump sold by O&R. David

I've moved the post about a Lancaster pump here; David

Service bulletin SE-063 gives a cylinder to crankcase torque of 25 - 30ft. lbs. but there is no mention of how they do this using the cylinder removal tool. With new exhaust collector gaskets it should just be possible to turn the exhaust collector for positioning after the cylinder is tightened. David

I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. The service instructions gave information on how to make a cylinder removal tool, there is a thread on here where I posted about it. I've since found it easier to hold the engine block using a vice (with soft jaws) and to use what you guys call a 'crescent wrench' (or adjustable spanner in UK) to turn the bar I made, I found the round bar used was too easy to bend if the cylinder was very tight, also didn't fancy turning any of my screwdrivers into banana shapes. Making the cylinder removal bar longer than needed also allows you to file/shorten it when it wears on the edges. Note; Never attempt to unscrew the cylinder if the piston is stuck from dried out oil residue, doing so can cause the con-rod to bend & break. The slot in the top of the cylinder should either be parallel with the engine crankshaft or at 90 degrees to it, @Wallfish has already mentioned this and the service info posted by @JUST O&R also mentions it. David

That price seems excessive to me, it doesn't have any extras like the manual, original box.... or the required (a spark). David

You say it revved up before shutting down, did it rev higher than normal speed? If it happens again once you've rebuilt the generator check the governor vane hasn't fallen out of the butterfly valve in the carb. I had this happen with my first TT (Tiny Tor), the cause was the governor vane being bent in the wrong direction and it kept falling out. The early governor vane should sit up as shown below, if it's more towards the flywheel then it's bent. Note: the governor vanes vary a little depending on the age of the engine. David

Good to hear it arrived OK, looking forward to seeing some pictures. David

@tackdriver56 was the first to post about the carb diaphragm with the bonded disc, he used Seal-All to reattach it to the new diaphragm. David

I'm not a fan of facebook myself but wish you luck with the group, if anyone on your group needs help with the O&R engines found on the earliest batch of Little Petro minibikes feel free to send them here. David

If you want help with the engine production date, then the first three numbers after 13A246 will help date it to the year/month it was made by O&R. Note: this only applies to engines made after June 1967, which your Aquabug should be. David

Thanks for sharing those pictures of your two Little Petro minibikes, I'm guessing the TAS P-54 is the engine specification with the reduction gearbox (transmission), finding any diagrams for these really early TAS (Tanaka) engines seems impossible. I'm still looking for an early TAS motor for my collection, but they don't seem as common in the UK. David

Is that something you have plans for or looking to sell? I'm interested in a basket case. Kind of my specialty it seems Is that the one from posts #3 & 4? It looks a nice challenge. Anyone know how many of these mini-bikes are known to have survived now, a few more must have turned up since the first post from 2014 (possibly older than that as it was from the previous forum). There are a few more Little Petro minibikes with both O&R & Tanaka P7 engines and Jim Odom pictured with one here; 1/4 MINIBIKE (LITTLE PETRO) David

I'm fairly certain the seller is @H Killackey , the restored bike in the ebay listing looks the same as the one in post #17. Also he was talking about having a few covers made, presumably to sell & help cover the costs of having them made. David

Yes I would keep the original decal too. Just be careful with cleaning those later decals as they can be easily damaged, they look to be made from plastic film coated paper. I've seen three (four if you count yours) so far with a three blade propeller, most of these have a blue starter housing too, I wonder if they are slightly newer as they have a more robust looking throttle control too. David

I've just bought a 1951 Ohlsson Rice catalog for the model plane engines, tether car & accessories (that predate the Compact engines), I will add some more pictures when it arrives. David

Wow that is one of the nicest Aquabug's I've ever seen, doesn't look to need much cleaning at all. David