factory

Welcome to the forum, I'm curious as to why you need the bearings, are they missing or damaged? Also they changed the sizes of some of the bearings over the years, it depends on the age/type of engine as to the sizes required. The engine rebuild thread should help with disassembly of the engine, be sure that the piston is free to move or the con-rod will get damaged when the cylinder barrel is unscrewed; And here is the Tiny Tiger repair guide from John, with lots of pictures; And the Tiny Tiger instructions I scanned also has disassembly instructions; David

The engine for the Aquabug is usually a Series 13A Type 246 rated for 1HP. Depends where you are located, if you are in the US @Webhead or @Wallfish have them, meatballbutch on ebay.com has them too, if you are in Europe I have some from Wallfish. Thanks for posting some pictures of your Aquabug which looks in nice condition, usually the plastic covers get damaged on these. I've noticed the carb is missing the needle valve assembly, a screw has been fitted where it normally is, again depending on where you are we maybe able to help. David

Welcome to the forum, is your Aquabug labelled 1.2HP? The O&R compact was only rated for 1HP max (the Perry Aquabug manual gives 1.2HP, clearly a marketing lie). If you haven't already seen it have a look at the carb rebuild thread, the carb diaphragms can go hard & brittle from gas/fuel & age, other problems could be the carb being gummed up with oil/fuel mix residue or blocked/cracked fuel lines. The replacement filter parts were made from; a plastic pipe/tube end cover/cap, the sort that are sold in various sizes & colours on ebay etc, I had a 16mm diameter one in my parts box which was shortened and a hole punched for the filter gauze, which was cut to size from small piece of brass gauze. The original carb filter parts would have been supplied by the K & P Manufacturing Co. who made the Aquabug & Mini Motor outboards. David

Just thought I would ask if they would like to add something to the description to help people find the forum, should they need any help with their O&R's, same as Joe (Webhead) did in the past. Note eBay doesn't like direct links any-more, they tend to automatically remove them. If you could ask for me that would be great, thank you. David

Hi Michael, Not sure why you want me to contact you as I don't have any of these helicopters, I guess you are OK with your contact details on here, I'll leave them. If I hear from Jim I will update the thread. The personal message (PM) section is easy enough to find, the letter icon at the top of the page, maybe it's harder to use on a phone (I don't know as I only use my PC, I hate small touchscreens for typing). David

Well I've tried to contact meatballbutch, but as usual ePay has blocked international messages as my address isn't in the US, why do they do this? You can't send helpful information to sellers either. David

I've sent Jim a PM to find out if he's OK and if these sold or not, I will try emailing too if I don't hear anything. David

I've merged the two threads & updated the title to include super portable, the forum search is very useful to help find stuff now we have lots of threads. David

Maybe I should have put super portable in the title , the forum search finds it, do you want me to combine the two threads? David

We don't see many of these, either they didn't sell very well or they didn't survive well due to the use of plastic for both the tank & generator casing. Hopefully the owner removed the two batteries a long time ago as they can make a mess of the inside when they leak. The light only works from the two batteries, advertised as being useful if starting or refuelling in the dark, I suspect most people would have carried a separate flash-light/torch with them so probably not that useful as an extra feature. Also when switched to start, the batteries are connected in series with the primary of the magneto coil, to apparently boost the voltage for easier starting. See this thread for both the Creme & Nichols version and a boxed one with instructions, etc; David

I had noticed the ebay seller was located in Arizona, which is why I don't think it's any of the regulars who post on here. Of course the source of the gaskets is mentioned on the forum, so someone not on the forum could have contacted Eric "The Gasket Man" directly and bought a load to sell on ebay, hopefully any buyers of the carb kits on ebay will find us if they need further help with their O&R's. David

I agree, it will look much better with an original tank. And good luck if you do decide to have a go on it when you've repaired it, how hard can it be to learn? David

Suggestions for a replacement carb diaphragm were given in the carb repair thread, I guess you missed my reply, also someone is selling them on ebay in the US. Ask about the U shaped spring in a personal message to whoever is nearest to you. David There are two sizes for the ball bearing used in the carbs, it shouldn't be to hard to find some replacements online or at a hardware shop if you still have a local one (my local one closed a few years ago ). Also note that some later carbs don't actually use the ball bearing, they had a small rubber seal attached to the diaphragm arm. David

Perhaps they had to move the backrest to raise that extra large gas tank up a bit. Usually the throttle control is via a small diameter Bowden cable, fitted to the lower set of holes on the side of the carb, sometimes you find a lever added instead for RC modified engines. Most of these Toby Cart's seem to be missing the carb, hopefully someone can confirm what was fitted. David

The item number seems to have got shortened, try this one instead https://www.ebay.com/itm/113908569482 Question is who on here is selling them on ebay? I don't think it's anyone I've already mentioned. David

Welcome to the forum Brad, I don't know where you are located, but a PM to either Wallfish or Webhead if you are in the US or me if you are in Europe and we can help with a new carb diaphragm for your O&R. David

I noticed that it was bent a few posts back, as the two drive pulleys weren't lined up straight in the sellers pictures, also the frame for the back rest is normally mounted underneath the board. I do wonder if the original owner had a mishap with it, anyway good luck with the restoration. David P.S. Are the links in post #41 meant to be in the empty quote box?

Little Wonder did make a snow blower attachment for the powerhead, not seen a survivor yet though. Good luck with both the new job & the move to the desert, I guess you will find some different O&R tools for sale locally there too. David

One of my Champ generators behaves the same way, i.e. it empties the tank in about 15minutes, I never investigated it further but suspect a leak or bad shaft seals. Was the RPM hunting and changing voltage due to no load? I do know that some earlier carbs don't have the carb quadrant for adjusting the governor spring tension to suit the required load. Vibration is common with these engines, any screws that weren't fully tightened usually unwind themselves as a result. David

Not a Norman, it's a Petter PU8, missing the cowling which would have had the brass name plate on it. David

That number looks right, with a production date of approx 1965. The gearbox will fit fine, the only differences inside are the gears attached to the engine PTO shaft, the clutch & drum gear changes to a standard gear (see parts circled below), all the case parts are the same for both gearboxes. Hopefully you can find the parts to repair the Model J, for the missing tank bracket you could make a temporary one & swap it over if you find an original. David

It was forum member @tackdriver56 that found one of those later glued/bonded diaphragm discs, he used Seal-All to attach it to the new diaphragm. David

That information was from a service note where they apparently had problems with wear, not sure how much use it would take to wear out the diaphragm disc as they imply, I added the service bulletin to the carb thread (post #52) as it had been asked about before, when someone found a later one (with the smaller disc) glued to the diaphragm. Personally I haven't glued any of mine, I can't see it being a problem as I only run them for short periods. David

The Model F is the same gear ratio as the Model J but without the Clutch, I think a digit in missing from the serial number as some of the parts look later than SN #09725. David

Is that NOS engine a Model J? If it is it should bolt straight on, you will only need to transfer the pulley over from the old one. The ebay link with sold price & pictures was provided by the seller in post #23. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264471736014 David