factory

I had noticed the ebay seller was located in Arizona, which is why I don't think it's any of the regulars who post on here. Of course the source of the gaskets is mentioned on the forum, so someone not on the forum could have contacted Eric "The Gasket Man" directly and bought a load to sell on ebay, hopefully any buyers of the carb kits on ebay will find us if they need further help with their O&R's. David

I agree, it will look much better with an original tank. And good luck if you do decide to have a go on it when you've repaired it, how hard can it be to learn? David

Suggestions for a replacement carb diaphragm were given in the carb repair thread, I guess you missed my reply, also someone is selling them on ebay in the US. Ask about the U shaped spring in a personal message to whoever is nearest to you. David There are two sizes for the ball bearing used in the carbs, it shouldn't be to hard to find some replacements online or at a hardware shop if you still have a local one (my local one closed a few years ago ). Also note that some later carbs don't actually use the ball bearing, they had a small rubber seal attached to the diaphragm arm. David

Perhaps they had to move the backrest to raise that extra large gas tank up a bit. Usually the throttle control is via a small diameter Bowden cable, fitted to the lower set of holes on the side of the carb, sometimes you find a lever added instead for RC modified engines. Most of these Toby Cart's seem to be missing the carb, hopefully someone can confirm what was fitted. David

The item number seems to have got shortened, try this one instead https://www.ebay.com/itm/113908569482 Question is who on here is selling them on ebay? I don't think it's anyone I've already mentioned. David

Welcome to the forum Brad, I don't know where you are located, but a PM to either Wallfish or Webhead if you are in the US or me if you are in Europe and we can help with a new carb diaphragm for your O&R. David

I noticed that it was bent a few posts back, as the two drive pulleys weren't lined up straight in the sellers pictures, also the frame for the back rest is normally mounted underneath the board. I do wonder if the original owner had a mishap with it, anyway good luck with the restoration. David P.S. Are the links in post #41 meant to be in the empty quote box?

Little Wonder did make a snow blower attachment for the powerhead, not seen a survivor yet though. Good luck with both the new job & the move to the desert, I guess you will find some different O&R tools for sale locally there too. David

One of my Champ generators behaves the same way, i.e. it empties the tank in about 15minutes, I never investigated it further but suspect a leak or bad shaft seals. Was the RPM hunting and changing voltage due to no load? I do know that some earlier carbs don't have the carb quadrant for adjusting the governor spring tension to suit the required load. Vibration is common with these engines, any screws that weren't fully tightened usually unwind themselves as a result. David

Not a Norman, it's a Petter PU8, missing the cowling which would have had the brass name plate on it. David

That number looks right, with a production date of approx 1965. The gearbox will fit fine, the only differences inside are the gears attached to the engine PTO shaft, the clutch & drum gear changes to a standard gear (see parts circled below), all the case parts are the same for both gearboxes. Hopefully you can find the parts to repair the Model J, for the missing tank bracket you could make a temporary one & swap it over if you find an original. David

It was forum member @tackdriver56 that found one of those later glued/bonded diaphragm discs, he used Seal-All to attach it to the new diaphragm. David

That information was from a service note where they apparently had problems with wear, not sure how much use it would take to wear out the diaphragm disc as they imply, I added the service bulletin to the carb thread (post #52) as it had been asked about before, when someone found a later one (with the smaller disc) glued to the diaphragm. Personally I haven't glued any of mine, I can't see it being a problem as I only run them for short periods. David

The Model F is the same gear ratio as the Model J but without the Clutch, I think a digit in missing from the serial number as some of the parts look later than SN #09725. David

Is that NOS engine a Model J? If it is it should bolt straight on, you will only need to transfer the pulley over from the old one. The ebay link with sold price & pictures was provided by the seller in post #23. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264471736014 David

It definitely has a piece broken off from the magneto plate (see near the exhaust), the engine mounting bracket looks to need straightening to re-align the drive pulleys too (see picture from underneath) and you will need a carb, but they are easier to find than parts for the board itself, good luck with the restoration. The listing does have some good pictures showing the throttle linkages. David

Just re-read the post, you did buy it, good to know it's going to someone on here and no that's not the correct tank, it should be attached to the engine as they usually are, maybe whatever damaged the starter & other bits finished off the tank too. Maybe you didn't see it because it sold in less than a day. David

Did you buy it then? David

Hi & welcome to the forum, that sold quick and the board at least looked in very nice condition, I never saw it as it wasn't advertised internationally though. The engine looks to have a broken flywheel fin & part broken from the magneto plate, did it have a mishap as some point? David

Hi Warren & welcome to the forum, not seen one of those for a long time, are you able to add some pictures? I noticed the advert leaflet on ebay has sold too (not me), here are the pictures for future reference (as they will disappear when the ebay ad gets deleted). David

OK, I have the AEP parts list for engines 20A1000 to 1009 (but the columns for 1003 & 1004 are blank). Types 1001 & 1005 also have the carb supplied by the product manufacturer and types 1000, 1005 & 1006 do not have the compression release valve either. SN #511xxxx will date to November 1975, so definitely an AEP engine. David

Oh well, I'm sure they will find us next time they search for one. I'm curious, does the engine have an O&R/AEP engine type/SN plate on it anywhere, presumably covered in paint if it does? There are two possible locations I know of for the type/SN plate, on the frame near the spark-plug lead or hidden on the back. David

I did notice a couple of forums with the Clinton K-150, all without pictures and none had worked out it was fitted with an O&R/AEP engine. It a shame I can't help them out on the forum you found, they want $40-$50 a year to access the forum (no free option that I could see ). David P.S. Added Clinton K-150 to the title.

Back when you got the Little Wonder hedge trimmer I thought you were looking into designing & making a replacement with 3D printing? David

I can't say for certain, but I can't see it making much difference for an O&R. It will reduce valve seat wear in older 4-stroke engines and of course there are engines that pre-date leaded fuels too, did they have to regrind valve seats more often? One of the aviation forums I found did mention how to test a sample of fuel for ethanol using water; https://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=1596038#p1596038 David