factory

Here is the first set of the thicker gaskets I came across inside a hedge trimmer engine from 1973 (a year after your Aquabug engine was made). It didn't want to come apart in one piece either. Note: there are different sized gaskets for the exhaust collector on some engines too. David

There is a "G&R engines" reed valve (400041) for the model 20A engine here, has make offer too; https://www.ebay.com/itm/174180575687 The same seller also has a starter spring for the 13B/20A engines (200576) & a pack of screws (100027). David

Hopefully it''ll look better when cleaned up, but still nice & original. I've added the Gusher pump parts diagram & list to the manuals sticky thread: David

Looks very nice condition, I have the slightly newer green 13B engined version (Orline Gusher pump Model 570). David

The thicker gaskets may actually be correct, they changed at some point in the production. A type 13B engine would not fit the cowling used on the Aquabug, 13A engines must still have been made for certain tools long after most manufacturers went to using the 13B. David

Has Paul @pmackellow seen it? I believe he was after one for his collection too, where did you find it advertised (can't see it on ePay)? David

There are a couple on here too, a forum search just reminded me I bought a 1963 O&R instructions & parts list from Australia, I need to get it scanned in at some point. David

I don't mind too much, it was good to see the forum remain busy while I was away. I may try combining some of the gaskets posts into a more relevant thread (time permitting), it does get difficult if more than one topic is in a post. For the thin paper induction case gaskets, I just measured the parts they fit into and made the gaskets to those sizes, I use grease to hold them in place for assembly too. David

Clint, yes it is a Petro "Chug-A-Saw" chainsaw from my collection, I'm going to need to check the engine type as I never made a note of it (hidden behind the gas tank). David

It's nice to see something a little bit different, if it uses a rubber impeller like the US made pumps then do not run the pump dry. In my notebook I have noted the size of one of the O&R gas tanks, diameter 2⅝" & length 4⅞". These engines were popular for building various home-made mini-bikes/scooters, a few companies also made mini-bikes & skateboards using O&R power. David

Looks good to me. David

Had to dry out a couple of my O&R engines and some Tarpen tools on Sunday, the horizontal rain somehow got in under the lead flashing on the flat roof part of the shed. David

Someone else that found the original plastic gas tank was a design flaw and made a replacement (so not "all original"). The batteries have corroded one of the contact springs too, so the battery case is not clean. Also I don't have eight hands, but have no trouble getting the starter springs back in. David

Interesting, your service bulletin has the same lack of units given for the coil continuity, even though it looks to have been typed by someone else. I suspect it should actually be 4700 ohms to 6700 ohms for the coil secondary (note early coils may differ). Also, despite using calibrated equipment at work, I've never found an O&R condenser that measures 0.25 MFD (uF) to 0.27 MFD (uF). For reference to the push rod here is Service Bulletin 034, this gives the length for a worn-out push rod as 0.800" David

The tank looks similar to the oil tank (with pump) used on the Petro chainsaw (see picture below), well that is apart from the gas cap being a bit bigger. What is the length & diameter of your gas tank? David

I do worry about the detail, I've checked a few parts lists and I can give a good estimate of late 1964 to early 1965 for SN #069131. The coil is fine for 1964/65, the April 1964 has A-149-3 which is the coil fitted, the early spark plug insulator was apparently used until SN #063807. Also according to the April 1964 parts list, engines after 066809 use the plastic reed valve. Does the starter housing have a hole for the other cylinder cooling baffle that was used on later engines? Also the shape of the top part of the pump casting is slightly different to those I've seen before, they don't normally have 'IN' & 'OUT' cast into them, plus the threads are much finer than usual (edit: as shown in the picture). David

If I got it right the zip code converts to 48231, google seems to confirm this, but I'm struggling to find the right building with the lack of street name. Doesn't help now Chrysler became FCA & downsized a lot and many buildings have either been demolished or some renamed in Detroit. David

Paul @pmackellow has used Machinery Decal's (Titch) to recreate decals from pictures. David

Not bad for $10, will it do the thicker gaskets, like the exhaust ones? I use a similar device for those and make a few at once as it's tricky to get it set right (use waste paper to test for size before trying gasket sheet). David P.S. I must say most recent threads are getting a bit confusing with the discussion of gaskets spread across them.

Your not alone, I did the "measure once cut drill & tap twice" with my engine test stand. Now for a distraction, to see if the address in Detroit that those engine outline drawings were sent to in 1963 still exists. David

Outline drawing for the Model F & J. David

The H has a single reduction gearbox and the F/J has a two stage reduction gearbox, hence the difference in the mounting, I have outline drawings with the dimensions which would have helped (a bit late now). David P.S. The brochure leaflet the above pictures are from doesn't mention the gearbox PTO shaft direction changes with the two different gearboxes.

Not me either, never saw it till after it had ended. It's one of the earliest O&R powered bike motor kits made by Savidge Co. featured in the June 1961 edition of Popular Science; Popular Science Magazine; June 1961 page 66 Savidge Co. bike motor David

Hopefully no damage done. The manual does have a parts diagram, but doesn't give the part numbers, I will look to see if I have a separate parts list. They did use a grommet for both the oil & fuel pickup, I hope it's a standard part they bought in, rather than a custom size. David

Type 13A is what they called the 1HP Compact III engine from March 1970, the serial no. seems odd normally as there is usually no more than 7 digits, if it starts with 202 then it dates to Feb 1972, the SN for mine (June 1971) is written in the last page of the Aquabug manual I added here. I have a couple of incomplete parts engine for these, I sent Paul a 13A246 cylinder baffle from one of them. The tab is for the condenser, I couldn't see the stop tab in the eBay pics, the normal stop tab would be completely inaccessible with the plastic tank & cover, hence why the instructions say to use the choke lever to stop the engine or to block the air intake with your thumb. David