factory

Looks good to me. David

Had to dry out a couple of my O&R engines and some Tarpen tools on Sunday, the horizontal rain somehow got in under the lead flashing on the flat roof part of the shed. David

Someone else that found the original plastic gas tank was a design flaw and made a replacement (so not "all original"). The batteries have corroded one of the contact springs too, so the battery case is not clean. Also I don't have eight hands, but have no trouble getting the starter springs back in. David

Interesting, your service bulletin has the same lack of units given for the coil continuity, even though it looks to have been typed by someone else. I suspect it should actually be 4700 ohms to 6700 ohms for the coil secondary (note early coils may differ). Also, despite using calibrated equipment at work, I've never found an O&R condenser that measures 0.25 MFD (uF) to 0.27 MFD (uF). For reference to the push rod here is Service Bulletin 034, this gives the length for a worn-out push rod as 0.800" David

The tank looks similar to the oil tank (with pump) used on the Petro chainsaw (see picture below), well that is apart from the gas cap being a bit bigger. What is the length & diameter of your gas tank? David

I do worry about the detail, I've checked a few parts lists and I can give a good estimate of late 1964 to early 1965 for SN #069131. The coil is fine for 1964/65, the April 1964 has A-149-3 which is the coil fitted, the early spark plug insulator was apparently used until SN #063807. Also according to the April 1964 parts list, engines after 066809 use the plastic reed valve. Does the starter housing have a hole for the other cylinder cooling baffle that was used on later engines? Also the shape of the top part of the pump casting is slightly different to those I've seen before, they don't normally have 'IN' & 'OUT' cast into them, plus the threads are much finer than usual (edit: as shown in the picture). David

If I got it right the zip code converts to 48231, google seems to confirm this, but I'm struggling to find the right building with the lack of street name. Doesn't help now Chrysler became FCA & downsized a lot and many buildings have either been demolished or some renamed in Detroit. David

Paul @pmackellow has used Machinery Decal's (Titch) to recreate decals from pictures. David

Not bad for $10, will it do the thicker gaskets, like the exhaust ones? I use a similar device for those and make a few at once as it's tricky to get it set right (use waste paper to test for size before trying gasket sheet). David P.S. I must say most recent threads are getting a bit confusing with the discussion of gaskets spread across them.

Your not alone, I did the "measure once cut drill & tap twice" with my engine test stand. Now for a distraction, to see if the address in Detroit that those engine outline drawings were sent to in 1963 still exists. David

Outline drawing for the Model F & J. David

The H has a single reduction gearbox and the F/J has a two stage reduction gearbox, hence the difference in the mounting, I have outline drawings with the dimensions which would have helped (a bit late now). David P.S. The brochure leaflet the above pictures are from doesn't mention the gearbox PTO shaft direction changes with the two different gearboxes.

Not me either, never saw it till after it had ended. It's one of the earliest O&R powered bike motor kits made by Savidge Co. featured in the June 1961 edition of Popular Science; Popular Science Magazine; June 1961 page 66 Savidge Co. bike motor David

Hopefully no damage done. The manual does have a parts diagram, but doesn't give the part numbers, I will look to see if I have a separate parts list. They did use a grommet for both the oil & fuel pickup, I hope it's a standard part they bought in, rather than a custom size. David

Type 13A is what they called the 1HP Compact III engine from March 1970, the serial no. seems odd normally as there is usually no more than 7 digits, if it starts with 202 then it dates to Feb 1972, the SN for mine (June 1971) is written in the last page of the Aquabug manual I added here. I have a couple of incomplete parts engine for these, I sent Paul a 13A246 cylinder baffle from one of them. The tab is for the condenser, I couldn't see the stop tab in the eBay pics, the normal stop tab would be completely inaccessible with the plastic tank & cover, hence why the instructions say to use the choke lever to stop the engine or to block the air intake with your thumb. David

The tank bracket (for using a standard round tank) with the 90 degree twist is part no. #97-25, the ex-drill tank looks good too. I can't confirm this, but if the engine parts list (Type 246) is correct, then the early outboard motor did use a standard round tank with the #97-25 bracket and no fragile plastic cover. Other things to note: no stop/kill switch is fitted, the air filter assembly is not used (it has a plastic cover with metal gauze insert instead) and the condenser is fitted to the large cylinder baffle. David

IMO they look better without the plastic cover. But if it does have one, it's good to keep it original. You could always keep a lookout for the other version and have one original & one without the plastic cover, they are much easier to find in the US than over here. Only the early covers have the threads on the covers. The majority will have the threads on the plates and the screw heads facing the recoil. Mustang style chainsaws have the threads on the tank and the cover and plate don't have threads. A previous owner probably put those screws back that way as that's how they were originally fitted on the Aquabug (well 4 out of 5 of them) and didn't realise they could go in from the other side, but they must have noticed the starter was very loose as a result . The screws are often the shortened & fitted the normal way too, this can be bad for the paintwork on the starter, as the Aquabug used screws with larger heads. David

I save what I can from ePay (can't find stuff listed on other selling sites though) as they can be used for reference & research, unfortunately I have missed saving some stuff recently due to the difficult time following my Mum passing. This might be useful to you, it's the manual that came with the Perry Aquabug's (re-brand) I bought, now added to the manuals sticky thread in Section 4 (it was posted on one of the other threads in the past); David

Well four (longer) screws did originally go in that way and dome nuts held on the plastic cover. These are the ones I ordered for my Aquabug's, I had to buy another dozen as they were too short , I also sent a set to Paul for his Aquabug restoration. David

I'm sure I've posted this service bulletin somewhere here before; Don't say you weren't warned. David

David

You must have missed the service information for both the 20A engine and Challenger chainsaw I scanned & posted here ; Section 2 has the "Model 20A Maintenance Manual" and Section 3 has the "Orline Challenger Chain Saw manual". Hope these help and yes a set of new crankcase seals & gaskets are required. David

Seems I saved pictures of your Aquabug, it had the bent rod for supporting the plastic tank and all the starter cover screws fitted in the back of the magneto plate, as it would have had the fibreglass/plastic cover too. To use a standard round tank you would need a different tank bracket, with a 90 degree bend in it to allow the tank cap to face up, example below; David

Have you got a Model H or Type 195 engine? A base mount gas tank could be used with these engines. The Orline version used a 1700 RPM Type 216 engine, which is almost the same as the Type 195, apart from the position of the gas tank. David

That is an earlier speedy sprayer, both this version and the later one (as used with the Orline version) were sold without the electric motor, the mounting holes with adjustment for the compressor, allowed fitting for most 1/4 HP electric motors. David