factory

You being the only resource back in the day is what got all of this started. Highly doubt I would've ever went past those first 2 engines if we never connected. I didn't know squat back then so your help and knowledge with the stuff was crucial in my collecting of O&R. Glad we started this because there really isn't any other place for people to go that I know of. Then people like David get involved and the knowledge base has grown to new heights because of his involvement and willingness share information. In a couple of years CNew will be coaching and suppling parts too at the pace he's going. Same here, I knew very little before I joined the previous forum after acquiring a Tiny Tor, but have learnt a lot over the years and also been researching & collecting information to help others. David

That looks like a good donor engine , I used a bare engine block of similar age for my TT repair*, that ensured the parts would fit together with the remaining original parts. *My failed TT engine was SN #035753 (Type 111), it was bought as a pile of bits, it was missing the crankshaft, piston, con-rod and con-rod bearing. The donor engine block was #012461 (Type 98) which had been used for a RC application by a previous owner, hence lots of missing parts. Before & donor engine. Some pictures from the restoration, it's also the only TT I have with the generator end housing finished in chrome. One of the missing parts was the long truss head screw for holding the generator rotor in place, a new one was machined from scratch, OK I deliberately made it a little bigger in places. David

There is the option to make new tanks too, if you can find the similar size food cans*, a screw top from readily available tins could be cut out and soldered in. The original O&R tanks are probably made in the same way as early (steel) beer cans were made in the US, I've seen a few in some of the abandoned mine exploration videos I watch on youtube and they looked similar in size & construction. *I've saved a couple of coffee cans for experimentation. David

Thanks for letting us know, I will update the thread title to 'sold'. David

Most O&R's in my collection use either the base tank or the horizontal tank, spare tanks do turn up on ePay.com from time to time. David

These are the cylinder gaskets used for the 3/4HP engine. I have made these using some NOS ones to check the sizes, it's probably not worth buying a sheet of material unless you intend to restore lots of O&R's. Note that the cylinder gaskets are made from thicker material (also more heat resistant) than the induction case gaskets (and once again later engines differ ). Also a new cylinder O ring would be a good idea. David

By the way there are two sizes of slotted con-rod, #31-2 is the correct one for this engine, #31-3 is for later engines that have bigger main shaft bearings & con--rod bearings. Here is a comparison of the shafts from a older 3/4HP engine (top) and a later 1HP engine (bottom), note the differences, it can get very confusing as to which parts are interchangeable. The original cylinder maybe OK once cleaned and inspected for damage, a brake cylinder hone can be used if needed. Don't forget to check the condition of the crankcase, the TT I had with a catastrophic bearing failure had lots of dents inside and was cracked through as well (so far this is the only engine found with this failure mode in my collection). David

Parts for use with original piston #37-4 are; #A-27-11 con-rod bearing set #31-1 con-rod #A-33-13 piston rings set #36-2 or #A-36-2 wrist pin #42-10 crankshaft Replacement parts required for use with piston #37-5 (use with wrist pin roller bearing) are; #A-20-5-13-7 con-rod bearing set, includes #7-22 washers (must be used with slotted con-rod) #A-20-7-19-7 wrist pin bearing set, includes #7-24 washers #31-2 con-rod #A-33-13 piston rings set #36-6 wrist pin (use with wrist pin roller bearings) #42-10 crankshaft If the crankcase is damaged/cracked then part #A-35-3 would be needed. All parts to be re-used would need a thorough cleaning to remove any trace of metallic particles from the failed bearings to avoid a repeat failure. David

Did this chainsaw sell? David

Now we have a picture that shows the engine serial number (#027xxx) I can tell you that it dates from around the end of 1962. The most appropriate parts list for you engine is the May 1962 one, which can be found here: That piston (#37-5) is for later engines, using it would need a set of wrist pin rollers, wrist pin washers, a change of con-rod and different crankshaft bearings. I still recommend finding a later donor engine, that will provide all the later improved parts, including the upgraded bearings with steel cages, the use of plastic cages was a major design flaw with these earlier engines. I've no idea why they decided they thought the plastic cages were a good idea, as the model plane engines they built before the Compact engines used metal bearing cages. David

It is possible to braze things like that handle back on, but my skills are a bit lacking for that and I haven't got the equipment or materials to do it, plus those front handles are the only ones on that frequency meter (others have side handles too) which weighs approx 39lbs, I wouldn't want that to land on my foot if a repair failed. I seem to remember an O&R drill that had a broken casting through shipping to the US, it did get repaired but I can't find pictures (they were probably on the previous forum). David

I thought you needed a piston, con-rod & bearings, what was the problem with the cylinder? I've cleaned up cylinders with a brake cylinder hone tool. I'm curious as to what state the internals are in, did it fail because of a broken plastic bearing cage or something else? I can't think of any other suggestions that we haven't already mentioned, i.e. finding a donor engine or engine block only. David

A little late maybe but welcome to the forum. That is a Tiny Tiger generator with an Ohlsson & Rice engine, we can't accurately date O&R's made before June 1967*, but looking at the engine fitted I suspect this is either a .85HP or 1HP model (usually a type 111) dating from the mid 1960's, sorry I can't be more specific, the serial number can help narrow down the date a little. *Engines made after June 1967 have the year & month coded into the serial number. Lots of other Tiny Tiger's in the O&R section; https://myoldmachine.com/forum/74-ohlsson-and-rice/ David

Nice, I could do with a couple of those and a bigger shed, my bench is always full. At the floor is mostly clear for when the inevitable happens and small parts disappear off the bench, I never did found that gudgeon pin clip that pinged off into a lower earth orbit though. David

I was thinking the same thing, that they may have a few of them, same as the seller that had half a dozen NOS foggers. David

I've not had too many problems with O&R's (apart from two parts hedge trimmers that were badly packed, carb snapped off on one) & shipping, but some do have dented tanks, can't say I noted whether they were like that before I got them. @JUST O&R has shown how they can be repaired if needed. Also had a nice early engine where a customs worker opened the box with the biggest knife they could find and put several horrid scratches on the starter housing, this had survived over 55 years in near perfect condition too. By the way some sellers even don't read messages requesting them to pack things properly, had this recently with a pair of HP (Hewlett Packard) items, they put them in a box about the same size as the items, the small meter was placed on top the larger one, it arrived with a nice dent in the top of the large one the same shape as the small meter. It took me best part of half a day to carefully dismantle it (including removing a CRT) to straighten the internal frame, back & covers, thankfully it still works, but I noticed this week it can't be stacked with other test gear as the side frames are also bent. These frames are die cast same as O&R parts so can't be straightened easily without risking cracking or snapping them. Another non O&R one (few months back) a seller used the worst box filling material I've ever seen, many thousands of tiny polystyrene balls, these othered no protection from the heavy item moving about in the box during international shipping, plus they take forever to clean up & dispose of afterwards. Of course it arrived with a broken off die-cast handle (part of the side frame), I've lost count of the number of times this has happened. The replacement frame is currently in the round-tuit pile awaiting machining to match the original. David

Have a closer look, the engine serial number is different, slightly less rust on the steel bits, no air filter and a bent foot. It's a second one, not so 'rare' after all then??? David

Ouch , I hope you have complained, was it poorly packaged? Also is it just me or is that tank shorter than usual? Edit: it's probably just the angle the picture was taken from (not shorter). David

I saw that one a while ago last time we were discussing Mono chainsaws but forgot to post about it, the second saw is labelled Super Safari Power on decal and was probably sold with other brand names (same as the 13A engined version). Also the first one dates from 1971 not 1973, 20A273 is the engine spec. David

Some people post their ad's for O&R's in the forum buy/sell section, others post in the O&R section, I can see why it got missed, but at least you know now. Not odd at all, it was cost cutting towards the final years of production (most common after they became AEP). It's quicker to assemble then spray, than to paint the parts individually, this is still the way some manufacturers paint their engines. This also reduces the amount of parts stock/inventory needed, don't need separate part numbers for each color of each part. Of course it's your choice how to repaint if you decided too, we can take our time and make sure the paint stays on as well. David

All the later tools from AEP are spray painted over nearly everything too. This is in the general for sale section of the forum, hopefully he will update us if it has been sold. David

If you need to match slightly faded paint, then a car body shop should be able to mix some to match & put it in a rattle can for you. David

Yes the original starter would have been sprayed green same as most of the parts, by the time this was made replacement starter housings were only available in that beige color, whoever replaced it never bothered to paint it green and lost some of the original starter fillister head screws. So how much is it then? David

I have seen similar looking decals on the Meier Line chainsaws, both a Mark I & Mark II version, but no Mark V yet. David

The Krestronics and a few of the others from the 'unknown' thread have engines from the earliest batch of O&R's, so it's not surprizing that not much has survived. David