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factory

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Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. Good to hear it arrived OK, looking forward to seeing some pictures. David
  2. @tackdriver56 was the first to post about the carb diaphragm with the bonded disc, he used Seal-All to reattach it to the new diaphragm. David
  3. I'm not a fan of facebook myself but wish you luck with the group, if anyone on your group needs help with the O&R engines found on the earliest batch of Little Petro minibikes feel free to send them here. David
  4. If you want help with the engine production date, then the first three numbers after 13A246 will help date it to the year/month it was made by O&R. Note: this only applies to engines made after June 1967, which your Aquabug should be. David
  5. Thanks for sharing those pictures of your two Little Petro minibikes, I'm guessing the TAS P-54 is the engine specification with the reduction gearbox (transmission), finding any diagrams for these really early TAS (Tanaka) engines seems impossible. I'm still looking for an early TAS motor for my collection, but they don't seem as common in the UK. David
  6. Is that something you have plans for or looking to sell? I'm interested in a basket case. Kind of my specialty it seems Is that the one from posts #3 & 4? It looks a nice challenge. Anyone know how many of these mini-bikes are known to have survived now, a few more must have turned up since the first post from 2014 (possibly older than that as it was from the previous forum). There are a few more Little Petro minibikes with both O&R & Tanaka P7 engines and Jim Odom pictured with one here; 1/4 MINIBIKE (LITTLE PETRO) David
  7. I'm fairly certain the seller is @H Killackey , the restored bike in the ebay listing looks the same as the one in post #17. Also he was talking about having a few covers made, presumably to sell & help cover the costs of having them made. David
  8. Yes I would keep the original decal too. Just be careful with cleaning those later decals as they can be easily damaged, they look to be made from plastic film coated paper. I've seen three (four if you count yours) so far with a three blade propeller, most of these have a blue starter housing too, I wonder if they are slightly newer as they have a more robust looking throttle control too. David
  9. I've just bought a 1951 Ohlsson Rice catalog for the model plane engines, tether car & accessories (that predate the Compact engines), I will add some more pictures when it arrives. David
  10. Wow that is one of the nicest Aquabug's I've ever seen, doesn't look to need much cleaning at all. David
  11. You being the only resource back in the day is what got all of this started. Highly doubt I would've ever went past those first 2 engines if we never connected. I didn't know squat back then so your help and knowledge with the stuff was crucial in my collecting of O&R. Glad we started this because there really isn't any other place for people to go that I know of. Then people like David get involved and the knowledge base has grown to new heights because of his involvement and willingness share information. In a couple of years CNew will be coaching and suppling parts too at the pace he's going. Same here, I knew very little before I joined the previous forum after acquiring a Tiny Tor, but have learnt a lot over the years and also been researching & collecting information to help others. David
  12. That looks like a good donor engine , I used a bare engine block of similar age for my TT repair*, that ensured the parts would fit together with the remaining original parts. *My failed TT engine was SN #035753 (Type 111), it was bought as a pile of bits, it was missing the crankshaft, piston, con-rod and con-rod bearing. The donor engine block was #012461 (Type 98) which had been used for a RC application by a previous owner, hence lots of missing parts. Before & donor engine. Some pictures from the restoration, it's also the only TT I have with the generator end housing finished in chrome. One of the missing parts was the long truss head screw for holding the generator rotor in place, a new one was machined from scratch, OK I deliberately made it a little bigger in places. David
  13. There is the option to make new tanks too, if you can find the similar size food cans*, a screw top from readily available tins could be cut out and soldered in. The original O&R tanks are probably made in the same way as early (steel) beer cans were made in the US, I've seen a few in some of the abandoned mine exploration videos I watch on youtube and they looked similar in size & construction. *I've saved a couple of coffee cans for experimentation. David
  14. Thanks for letting us know, I will update the thread title to 'sold'. David
  15. Most O&R's in my collection use either the base tank or the horizontal tank, spare tanks do turn up on ePay.com from time to time. David
  16. These are the cylinder gaskets used for the 3/4HP engine. I have made these using some NOS ones to check the sizes, it's probably not worth buying a sheet of material unless you intend to restore lots of O&R's. Note that the cylinder gaskets are made from thicker material (also more heat resistant) than the induction case gaskets (and once again later engines differ ). Also a new cylinder O ring would be a good idea. David
  17. By the way there are two sizes of slotted con-rod, #31-2 is the correct one for this engine, #31-3 is for later engines that have bigger main shaft bearings & con--rod bearings. Here is a comparison of the shafts from a older 3/4HP engine (top) and a later 1HP engine (bottom), note the differences, it can get very confusing as to which parts are interchangeable. The original cylinder maybe OK once cleaned and inspected for damage, a brake cylinder hone can be used if needed. Don't forget to check the condition of the crankcase, the TT I had with a catastrophic bearing failure had lots of dents inside and was cracked through as well (so far this is the only engine found with this failure mode in my collection). David
  18. Parts for use with original piston #37-4 are; #A-27-11 con-rod bearing set #31-1 con-rod #A-33-13 piston rings set #36-2 or #A-36-2 wrist pin #42-10 crankshaft Replacement parts required for use with piston #37-5 (use with wrist pin roller bearing) are; #A-20-5-13-7 con-rod bearing set, includes #7-22 washers (must be used with slotted con-rod) #A-20-7-19-7 wrist pin bearing set, includes #7-24 washers #31-2 con-rod #A-33-13 piston rings set #36-6 wrist pin (use with wrist pin roller bearings) #42-10 crankshaft If the crankcase is damaged/cracked then part #A-35-3 would be needed. All parts to be re-used would need a thorough cleaning to remove any trace of metallic particles from the failed bearings to avoid a repeat failure. David
  19. Now we have a picture that shows the engine serial number (#027xxx) I can tell you that it dates from around the end of 1962. The most appropriate parts list for you engine is the May 1962 one, which can be found here: That piston (#37-5) is for later engines, using it would need a set of wrist pin rollers, wrist pin washers, a change of con-rod and different crankshaft bearings. I still recommend finding a later donor engine, that will provide all the later improved parts, including the upgraded bearings with steel cages, the use of plastic cages was a major design flaw with these earlier engines. I've no idea why they decided they thought the plastic cages were a good idea, as the model plane engines they built before the Compact engines used metal bearing cages. David
  20. It is possible to braze things like that handle back on, but my skills are a bit lacking for that and I haven't got the equipment or materials to do it, plus those front handles are the only ones on that frequency meter (others have side handles too) which weighs approx 39lbs, I wouldn't want that to land on my foot if a repair failed. I seem to remember an O&R drill that had a broken casting through shipping to the US, it did get repaired but I can't find pictures (they were probably on the previous forum). David
  21. I thought you needed a piston, con-rod & bearings, what was the problem with the cylinder? I've cleaned up cylinders with a brake cylinder hone tool. I'm curious as to what state the internals are in, did it fail because of a broken plastic bearing cage or something else? I can't think of any other suggestions that we haven't already mentioned, i.e. finding a donor engine or engine block only. David
  22. A little late maybe but welcome to the forum. That is a Tiny Tiger generator with an Ohlsson & Rice engine, we can't accurately date O&R's made before June 1967*, but looking at the engine fitted I suspect this is either a .85HP or 1HP model (usually a type 111) dating from the mid 1960's, sorry I can't be more specific, the serial number can help narrow down the date a little. *Engines made after June 1967 have the year & month coded into the serial number. Lots of other Tiny Tiger's in the O&R section; https://myoldmachine.com/forum/74-ohlsson-and-rice/ David
  23. Nice, I could do with a couple of those and a bigger shed, my bench is always full. At the floor is mostly clear for when the inevitable happens and small parts disappear off the bench, I never did found that gudgeon pin clip that pinged off into a lower earth orbit though. David
  24. I was thinking the same thing, that they may have a few of them, same as the seller that had half a dozen NOS foggers. David
 
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