factory

The condensers are usually fine, cleaning & adjusting the points should sort out the spark problem. You would probably find an RC carb much better if you plan to use one of these engines in a boat. What do you plan to do with the rest of the unit? they aren't exactly common. Usually I find a small gas blowtorch more than adequate for heating up seized fasteners to free them. David

If only one side is damaged then I usually put it in my spares, then later re-use the good half when I find another with the same problem. David

What about the CAD files then? The carb diaphragms we supply were all cut by Eric "the gasket man". David

Do you have a link to that one, or save any pictures? David

Finally checked the engine type on mine, it's also a type 112, sn #018611. With all the mention of replacing plastic bearing sets with the metal versions, I try & re-use all parts where possible including those plastic cages if no damage is obvious, remember there is a finite supply of spare parts for these engines. David

Look for the other version powered by the Series 20A engine too, a seller had a pallet load of them which "were" all new-old-stock till the seller ran them all , I did try and get them to list one they hadn't run but got no-where with them so didn't buy one myself. David

I seem to have saved the ePay pictures of your saw, interesting to see what looks like "Bunyan Saw" on the bar next to the "Chip-A-Saw" logo. David

Good to see it back together after all the trouble with that gearbox, hopefully no bits left over, nice & shiny too. David

Sounds like some tools over here, they used them till they were worn out, bodged them & used them again till they were completely trashed. David

I think the reason they sometimes appear is explained by the price list, they discontinued one older backshaft (with no keyways) to reduce parts inventory at the factory and to keep the other backshaft (with keyways) available for all older engines with or without the clutch. David

Laser cut replacement diagrams are available from several forum members in the US including @Wallfish & @Webhead and from me in the UK. If you haven't already seen it check out the carb rebuild thread and don't forget to replace the old crumbly air filter foam, any other questions feel free to ask & we can help. Have you got any pictures of your Mity Moe? David

The Groomer string trimmers (weed wacker) were made in the late 1970's by Advanced Engine Products Incorporated (formerly known as O&R), this was towards the end of AEP (O&R) as the company was dissolved in 1978. Hopefully someone will find a complete trimmer one day. As you've noticed the 13B427 is a constant speed engine using the Tillotson HU38A carb, this is pre-calibrated for constant speed operation only and has no fuel/speed adjustments. The added primer button is for easier starting and the extra tube to the crankcase is to pulse the fuel pump. I don't recommend looking at a standard parts diagram for the Tillotson carbs as they show all the bits not used on the HU38A, the diagram below is from the book "Small Air-Cooled Engines" 16th edition from Intertec Publishing, which has a small section for O&R/AEP engines, I don't want to add the rest as the current version of this book is still available and I don't want copyright problems. The air filter would have been on the end of the tubing that made up the pole & handle for these trimmers, the engine stop/kill switch would have been on this handle too. Some models had another tube with handle used as the gas tank and others had a gas tank attached to the starter housing. The trigger mentioned on the decal is indeed for releasing more cutting line on the trimmer head, they called this a "Touch-n-go" trigger. Other models had a "Bounce-N-Feed" trimmer head, this version released more cutting line when lightly bumped on the ground. David

The keys and the taper are the same. The shaft that was in that engine is for a different style engine and therefore it's longer. Plus it was only one side of a different shaft I believe. The other side was right or at least it works perfectly fine. I believe it's because the engine I have uses the plastic bearing cages and that longer shaft is from and engine with the newer roller bearing and 2 washers on the side. This is exactly where David always shines as he could probably provide exact part #s, exact measurements, which engines, DOM, ect. ect. That guy is incredible! I've found a possible match for the slightly longer backshaft in the April 1964 parts list, it gives gives 42-12 as the backshaft without keyways (used after SN #006072) and 42-18 as the same backshaft for use with A-131-4 thrust bearing assembly. However this assembly is neither shown on the diagram or given a separate number/entry in the parts list and no mention if any other parts are changed to use the thrust bearing either. Also the 1971 price list states 42-12 (without keyways) use 42-16, which is the same shaft but with keyways. Anyone else confused, I certainly am. David PS I need to check the 1961 to 1963 info that isn't scanned too.

I will need to do more research to check about the thrust washers, adding a picture will help confirm which ones you are thinking of too. David

Looking good, I've been thinking all of these covers need reinforcing with glass fibre matting like that. Would you like me to change the title to "spring project" and maybe add Aquabug too? David

Actually $365 at current rates, plus the cost of a new chain, the missing vertical gas tank and another donor engine if needed. David

By the way the 1971 price list fails to mention* anything about the A-27-11 main con-rod bearing change to A-20-5-13-7, that must be used with a slotted con-rod and also a change of piston & wrist pin, here is the April 1964 parts list information; From the August 1964 parts list, the con-rod main bearing was changed to A-20-5-16-7 with 7-25 washers. David *Which is why it takes a long time to cross check to find the correct information, also note you will find more bearing differences with engines below SN 006072.

A couple of sources (1971 price list & 1965 parts list) give the following bearing changes, of course it all depends on the age of the engine as to which are used, the changes started happening around 1963/64 following the NIAE test report; Crankshaft main* bearing: A-27-4 use A-27-17. *When they changed the crankshaft main bearings in August 1964 they used part no A-27-8 for this one, for A-27-8 use A-27-16. Backshaft (PTO) reed* & induction housing bearings (2 sets): A-27-2 use A-27-18. *When they changed the PTO shaft reed valve bearings in August 1964 they used part no A-27-4 for this one (1 set), again A-27-4 use A-27-17. The A-27-3 bearing never changed part number for both the plastic & steel cages, I did note the steel cages are slightly thicker than the plastic ones, this may have been because they were used of course (it was a while ago I checked). David

I thought you had bought a manual some time ago when you first found the Clinton, as there were several available both on ePay & SCamazon at the time I ended up buying one too. In fact there must be more manuals than surviving outboards. David

£280 if you believe the seller, I don't. A lot of O&R tools in the UK are in that condition, but because these chainsaws are not common it would have still been worth restoring, even if that meant replacing the engine, FYI mine isn't much better. David

The handle grips are often missing on these drills. If you haven't seen it I posted the manual a while back here (section 4); Shame it doesn't give individual part numbers for the bearings & seals. David

Well the bad news is I can't buy it for anyone either, apparently it was sold on Saturday for a silly price. David

That's better. David

I wouldn't worry too much, you've probably eaten plenty of food that has been sprayed with these chemicals over the years. Did it look as bad as mine? Which was also very rusty & corroded too, which may have contributed to the blade being a PITA to remove. David

I'll let you off, Clint mentioned the bearings first. David