factory

I'll just rephrase what I said earlier; "Or you can cut your loses as you say and sell off the good parts, the gas tank, carb, air filter, exhaust, starter, governor vane etc. are all parts that are commonly damaged or missing." You have a selection of commonly wanted parts, that you'll find very useful when you find lots more O&R tools. And they attract plenty of interest at shows over here in the UK too. David

$199 is too much for an replacement engine for this, as Tiny Tigers can be bought for between $70 & $125, or a bit more for a really nice one, they were very popular in the 1960's and lots of them have survived. If you keep a search on eBay, Craigslist or other selling sites you should be able to buy another engine with tapered & internally threaded PTO shaft for about $50/60 and hopefully a newer one with the bearings in metal cages rather those plastic ones (which I suspect this engine may have), also the later con-rod has the slot in the bottom to improve lubrication. Presumably O&R knew about these problems, hence why they improved the design. Or you can cut your loses as you say and sell off the good parts, the gas tank, carb, air filter, exhaust, starter, governor vane etc. are all parts that are commonly damaged or missing. The cylinder may be OK too once cleaned & honed, but the piston, con-rod & crankshaft will be damaged and the crankcase will also have damage as mine did (was cracked due to the high speed impacts from all the bearing rollers flying apart). David

Ouch, that doesn't look good, are the rollers from the bearing still inside the bottom of the crankcase or had someone removed them? Either way the surface of the crank pin will probably have damage too. If the bearing did fail and flung out all the rollers then there could be damage to the crankcase too. Have a look at the Tiny Tiger guide & instructions I linked in the earlier post for information on separating the generator from the engine, then you will be able to dismantle the engine further. A few years ago I acquired a dismantled Tiny Tiger that had suffered a catastrophic bearing failure, there were lots of dents inside the crankcase from the bearing rollers and it was also cracked as a result. It required a donor engine block (with tapered output shaft) to rebuild, you should be able to find an incomplete engine for not too much money to use as a donor if needed. I think the shipping to the UK was more than the cost of the donor engine. Here are some pictures of that Tiny Tiger, first picture as bought, second the donor engine, third the completed restoration. David

Looks a good little ultrasonic machine, but it's not the $65/75 cheap type found on ebay, apparently it's $220 or $500 for a larger one; https://tinytach.com/ultrasonic-cleaners I do miss not having access to one, the machine at work was massive by comparison, from memory it was something like 5 to10 litres of cleaning solution diluted in water per wash tank. Perhaps a different chemical was used as it was mostly used for cleaning electro-mechanical & electronic assemblies. Apparently someone at the previous site it was used at, put a car engine block through it, though we found the robot wouldn't lift a 90kg electronic assembly (a forklift had to be used as there was no overhead cranes in the area). Very small parts had to be contained to prevent them getting lost and yes we de-greased items first to increase the life of the cleaning solution, so cleaning before being cleaned makes perfect sense to me. David

Last one I had that speed up & shutdown was due to the governor mechanism not working. Your engine sounds worse as the piston has got damaged, it will need a complete engine stripdown & clean to make sure no bits of metal are left inside, anything missed could cause similar damage at 6300rpm. Please post some pictures so we can correctly identify both the engine type and the parts needed, are you in the US? Note that earlier engines don't have any needle rollers for the con-rod little end bearing, example below; Also did you clean out any old crumbly filter foam from the carb air filter before it was run? David

That looks in very nice condition, they don't turn up very often (maybe no-one can identify them once the decals wear off or get damaged), I'm still looking for one too, not seen another in the UK apart from the one Paul rebuilt with the compressor from an electric Speedy Sprayer (made by WR Brown). https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ASYDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&lr&pg=PA217#v=onepage&q&f=false The Orline advert shows it with a sprayer (part of an accessory kit comprising of a spray gun, hose & tire chuck). The instructions and parts diagram for this compressor can be found in the manuals sticky thread. David

Yes that's the one Paul, the other is still awaiting restoration, thanks for the reminder about the decals. Speaking of decals here are a couple of pictures I took of the Aquabug decals to help Paul, they should be useful if other people need to have some made too. David

The chainsaw pictured in post #3 was one of a pair I imported (they were sold together & it worked out quite well with the shipping), Paul now has that one, neither of them had any decals. David

Wow-those are some nice finds! Is that a Meier chainsaw? It's not a Meier chainsaw, it could be a later Chip-A-Saw (also branded as Paul Bunyan), see the linked thread, post #16 has some pictures of the Chip-A-Saw version; David

The more people that can help with new carb diaphragms the better , Wallfish was kind to send me a small stock of them to help the O&R collectors in Europe. Yes, thanks, I agree. I was Skeptical, but I am still learning how to navigate this site. I have been removing contact details from view as I find them, so far I've only had one member re-add them (which they are welcome to do), if anyone spots any contact details we have missed in older posts please let any of the Mods know. I don't usually log in with my phone but I thought I would to see how it the PM works on those, I prefer using my PC with keyboard over the phone touchscreen for typing. David

It's surprising how many people ask for filters where they weren't fitted, also filter foam (and other foam) in a damp environment will attract water & cause rusting or corrosion. Have you got the cover & tank for that Aquabug? Most seem to be missing these, but I could just about see what looks like the support for the tank, see the picture below (sorry it's poor quality, old ebay pic). David

Most of the damaged items I've received are heavy vintage electronics (way off topic) not O&R's, but the point is still valid. I would also like to not thank the customs folk here in the UK for adding a scratch to the blower housing of what was a nice condition early O&R. David

I've had a couple of empty paper envelopes too, thankfully only modern stuff that was easily replaced. It's also annoying how some people can't be bothered to pack larger items properly, I've lost count of the number of things that have arrived damaged as a result, you shouldn't have to remind sellers how to pack properly. David

I'm a bit surprised too, these little engines must be getting more popular. Looks like your sorted for a needle valve, have a look at the carb thread to check if any other parts are missing, note that most carbs use a check ball (in two sizes) & some later ones have a rubber seal on the diaphragm arm. David

It depends how dirty the parts were to start with, we used to have both a very large automated ultrasonic machine (US made) and another dual tank cleaner at work for cleaning electronics, the cleaning performance varied a lot depending on how dirty the items were, the type of dirt/contamination, etc. We were never allowed to put items in that hadn't been de-greased either. The larger machine often left dirt on flat surfaces and then baked it on in the drying stages, but did have filters in the pre wash & wash tanks to extend the life of the cleaning solution. I did sneak the odd O&R part in but had limited success, also neither machine made any difference to items that were corroded. Do you have any experience of the small cheap machines? Some people over on the vintage radio forum haven't been impressed by them. David

Welcome to the forum, I'm curious as to why you need the bearings, are they missing or damaged? Also they changed the sizes of some of the bearings over the years, it depends on the age/type of engine as to the sizes required. The engine rebuild thread should help with disassembly of the engine, be sure that the piston is free to move or the con-rod will get damaged when the cylinder barrel is unscrewed; And here is the Tiny Tiger repair guide from John, with lots of pictures; And the Tiny Tiger instructions I scanned also has disassembly instructions; David

The engine for the Aquabug is usually a Series 13A Type 246 rated for 1HP. Depends where you are located, if you are in the US @Webhead or @Wallfish have them, meatballbutch on ebay.com has them too, if you are in Europe I have some from Wallfish. Thanks for posting some pictures of your Aquabug which looks in nice condition, usually the plastic covers get damaged on these. I've noticed the carb is missing the needle valve assembly, a screw has been fitted where it normally is, again depending on where you are we maybe able to help. David

Welcome to the forum, is your Aquabug labelled 1.2HP? The O&R compact was only rated for 1HP max (the Perry Aquabug manual gives 1.2HP, clearly a marketing lie). If you haven't already seen it have a look at the carb rebuild thread, the carb diaphragms can go hard & brittle from gas/fuel & age, other problems could be the carb being gummed up with oil/fuel mix residue or blocked/cracked fuel lines. The replacement filter parts were made from; a plastic pipe/tube end cover/cap, the sort that are sold in various sizes & colours on ebay etc, I had a 16mm diameter one in my parts box which was shortened and a hole punched for the filter gauze, which was cut to size from small piece of brass gauze. The original carb filter parts would have been supplied by the K & P Manufacturing Co. who made the Aquabug & Mini Motor outboards. David

Just thought I would ask if they would like to add something to the description to help people find the forum, should they need any help with their O&R's, same as Joe (Webhead) did in the past. Note eBay doesn't like direct links any-more, they tend to automatically remove them. If you could ask for me that would be great, thank you. David

Hi Michael, Not sure why you want me to contact you as I don't have any of these helicopters, I guess you are OK with your contact details on here, I'll leave them. If I hear from Jim I will update the thread. The personal message (PM) section is easy enough to find, the letter icon at the top of the page, maybe it's harder to use on a phone (I don't know as I only use my PC, I hate small touchscreens for typing). David

Well I've tried to contact meatballbutch, but as usual ePay has blocked international messages as my address isn't in the US, why do they do this? You can't send helpful information to sellers either. David

I've sent Jim a PM to find out if he's OK and if these sold or not, I will try emailing too if I don't hear anything. David

I've merged the two threads & updated the title to include super portable, the forum search is very useful to help find stuff now we have lots of threads. David

Maybe I should have put super portable in the title , the forum search finds it, do you want me to combine the two threads? David

We don't see many of these, either they didn't sell very well or they didn't survive well due to the use of plastic for both the tank & generator casing. Hopefully the owner removed the two batteries a long time ago as they can make a mess of the inside when they leak. The light only works from the two batteries, advertised as being useful if starting or refuelling in the dark, I suspect most people would have carried a separate flash-light/torch with them so probably not that useful as an extra feature. Also when switched to start, the batteries are connected in series with the primary of the magneto coil, to apparently boost the voltage for easier starting. See this thread for both the Creme & Nichols version and a boxed one with instructions, etc; David