factory

Currently it's on a shelf with the other display only engines, it may get restored one day (with grease instead of oil in the gearbox) but there is a much later 1HP Model J and a Model H (age unknown as SN # has been removed) here that I intend to repair first. Can't say I would want to live in a big city either, probably couldn't afford anything with enough space for a shed/workshop, house prices in cities here are way too overpriced. There is a Model H on ebay.com (only) at the moment, it's not in great condition, the coil has the HT lead pulled off, but might be of interest here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184007853736 David

And they are back to being unavailable on ebay, maybe he ran out. That isn't a problem as John @Wallfish said he was having another batch made. Also the seller of the Toby Cart (a while ago) had no problems adding a "myoldmachine" forum link. David

Those Honda engines are so good the Chinese are cloning them. Over here we have a car show on TV called "Top Gear" they tried and failed to destroy a Toyota Hi-Lux, each time they thought it was dead they got it going again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnWKz7Cthkk I haven't got much Pioneer stuff here (possibly only a 1980's turntable which required very little work to repair), but have watched the video Shango066 did on the Pioneer SA9500, I don't know how high end it is, note Shango066 only really does diagnosis & resurrection videos not full restorations. There aren't many stereos here due to the space they take up, but I do have plenty of vintage radios from pre-war tube sets all the way up to the solid state stuff from the 1960's & 1970's, the tiny Sony radios from the 1960's are quite nice. I also have some Japanese made test equipment that Yokogawa built for HP, the quality is superb too. David

The Honda E40 (40W) & E300 (300W) generators were available by the mid 1960's, they are indeed much quieter and the one I've seen several times at engine shows was very reliable too. https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=XOMDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA1&pg=PA189#v=onepage&q&f=false https://global.honda/heritage/episodes/1965thee300.html The E300 would certainly have been in direct competition with the Tiny Tigers. David

It's in almost perfect condition, probably not had much or any use, the only damage is to the coil which has been bashed over at some point in the past, the resin is a little cracked as a result. Apart from the Model F that @JUST O&R posted about on the Toby Cart thread I haven't seen another either, Model J's are more easy to find. Note; these early gearbox engines have alloy gears which apparently wore out quickly according to the NIAE report, possibly not helped by the fact that the oil seems to disappear from the gearcases; David P.S. I've got a few O&R's here that look to have spent several decades rusting in hedges.

Yes it would take a lot of time to both figure out the correct parts & find them, hence why I suggest looking for an engine block (the sort that RC modellers have removed/lost bits from) and transferring the good parts from your engine to that one. As I did to restore the yellow Tiny Tiger which must have suffered a similar failure. And refilling the tank every hour. Don't forget they advertised them as being suitable for powering all sorts of equipment, plus battery charging (just imagine your miles from anywhere with a flat battery & the O&R won't start either), or even cook the worlds smallest goose (below). David

The question has been asked about letting buyers know about the forum for help & information, I don't think Max wants to put a link in the description, but could still let buyers know after a sale. Have a look at the carb sticky thread, it's best to let people know about the whole thread, rather than just where to find a kit as there is a lot of useful information there that could be missed. David

I haven't seen much for sale in the UK recently, but found this nice condition engine for sale on ebay in France, it's an early Model F with 6.921 to 1 ratio gearbox for 900 R.P.M. output shaft speed. Decals on this engine, not many had the Model printed on the O&R eagle logo decal, I've noticed that it isn't stamped into the crankcase on this engine either. The gearbox for the Model F has no clutch fitted, a Model J was also made if you needed the same specification but with a clutch, Model J engines seem to be more common than the Model F. Below is part of the 1961 price list showing these two models. David

Welcome Max David

I'll just rephrase what I said earlier; "Or you can cut your loses as you say and sell off the good parts, the gas tank, carb, air filter, exhaust, starter, governor vane etc. are all parts that are commonly damaged or missing." You have a selection of commonly wanted parts, that you'll find very useful when you find lots more O&R tools. And they attract plenty of interest at shows over here in the UK too. David

$199 is too much for an replacement engine for this, as Tiny Tigers can be bought for between $70 & $125, or a bit more for a really nice one, they were very popular in the 1960's and lots of them have survived. If you keep a search on eBay, Craigslist or other selling sites you should be able to buy another engine with tapered & internally threaded PTO shaft for about $50/60 and hopefully a newer one with the bearings in metal cages rather those plastic ones (which I suspect this engine may have), also the later con-rod has the slot in the bottom to improve lubrication. Presumably O&R knew about these problems, hence why they improved the design. Or you can cut your loses as you say and sell off the good parts, the gas tank, carb, air filter, exhaust, starter, governor vane etc. are all parts that are commonly damaged or missing. The cylinder may be OK too once cleaned & honed, but the piston, con-rod & crankshaft will be damaged and the crankcase will also have damage as mine did (was cracked due to the high speed impacts from all the bearing rollers flying apart). David

Ouch, that doesn't look good, are the rollers from the bearing still inside the bottom of the crankcase or had someone removed them? Either way the surface of the crank pin will probably have damage too. If the bearing did fail and flung out all the rollers then there could be damage to the crankcase too. Have a look at the Tiny Tiger guide & instructions I linked in the earlier post for information on separating the generator from the engine, then you will be able to dismantle the engine further. A few years ago I acquired a dismantled Tiny Tiger that had suffered a catastrophic bearing failure, there were lots of dents inside the crankcase from the bearing rollers and it was also cracked as a result. It required a donor engine block (with tapered output shaft) to rebuild, you should be able to find an incomplete engine for not too much money to use as a donor if needed. I think the shipping to the UK was more than the cost of the donor engine. Here are some pictures of that Tiny Tiger, first picture as bought, second the donor engine, third the completed restoration. David

Looks a good little ultrasonic machine, but it's not the $65/75 cheap type found on ebay, apparently it's $220 or $500 for a larger one; https://tinytach.com/ultrasonic-cleaners I do miss not having access to one, the machine at work was massive by comparison, from memory it was something like 5 to10 litres of cleaning solution diluted in water per wash tank. Perhaps a different chemical was used as it was mostly used for cleaning electro-mechanical & electronic assemblies. Apparently someone at the previous site it was used at, put a car engine block through it, though we found the robot wouldn't lift a 90kg electronic assembly (a forklift had to be used as there was no overhead cranes in the area). Very small parts had to be contained to prevent them getting lost and yes we de-greased items first to increase the life of the cleaning solution, so cleaning before being cleaned makes perfect sense to me. David

Last one I had that speed up & shutdown was due to the governor mechanism not working. Your engine sounds worse as the piston has got damaged, it will need a complete engine stripdown & clean to make sure no bits of metal are left inside, anything missed could cause similar damage at 6300rpm. Please post some pictures so we can correctly identify both the engine type and the parts needed, are you in the US? Note that earlier engines don't have any needle rollers for the con-rod little end bearing, example below; Also did you clean out any old crumbly filter foam from the carb air filter before it was run? David

That looks in very nice condition, they don't turn up very often (maybe no-one can identify them once the decals wear off or get damaged), I'm still looking for one too, not seen another in the UK apart from the one Paul rebuilt with the compressor from an electric Speedy Sprayer (made by WR Brown). https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ASYDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&lr&pg=PA217#v=onepage&q&f=false The Orline advert shows it with a sprayer (part of an accessory kit comprising of a spray gun, hose & tire chuck). The instructions and parts diagram for this compressor can be found in the manuals sticky thread. David

Yes that's the one Paul, the other is still awaiting restoration, thanks for the reminder about the decals. Speaking of decals here are a couple of pictures I took of the Aquabug decals to help Paul, they should be useful if other people need to have some made too. David

The chainsaw pictured in post #3 was one of a pair I imported (they were sold together & it worked out quite well with the shipping), Paul now has that one, neither of them had any decals. David

Wow-those are some nice finds! Is that a Meier chainsaw? It's not a Meier chainsaw, it could be a later Chip-A-Saw (also branded as Paul Bunyan), see the linked thread, post #16 has some pictures of the Chip-A-Saw version; David

The more people that can help with new carb diaphragms the better , Wallfish was kind to send me a small stock of them to help the O&R collectors in Europe. Yes, thanks, I agree. I was Skeptical, but I am still learning how to navigate this site. I have been removing contact details from view as I find them, so far I've only had one member re-add them (which they are welcome to do), if anyone spots any contact details we have missed in older posts please let any of the Mods know. I don't usually log in with my phone but I thought I would to see how it the PM works on those, I prefer using my PC with keyboard over the phone touchscreen for typing. David

It's surprising how many people ask for filters where they weren't fitted, also filter foam (and other foam) in a damp environment will attract water & cause rusting or corrosion. Have you got the cover & tank for that Aquabug? Most seem to be missing these, but I could just about see what looks like the support for the tank, see the picture below (sorry it's poor quality, old ebay pic). David

Most of the damaged items I've received are heavy vintage electronics (way off topic) not O&R's, but the point is still valid. I would also like to not thank the customs folk here in the UK for adding a scratch to the blower housing of what was a nice condition early O&R. David

I've had a couple of empty paper envelopes too, thankfully only modern stuff that was easily replaced. It's also annoying how some people can't be bothered to pack larger items properly, I've lost count of the number of things that have arrived damaged as a result, you shouldn't have to remind sellers how to pack properly. David

I'm a bit surprised too, these little engines must be getting more popular. Looks like your sorted for a needle valve, have a look at the carb thread to check if any other parts are missing, note that most carbs use a check ball (in two sizes) & some later ones have a rubber seal on the diaphragm arm. David

It depends how dirty the parts were to start with, we used to have both a very large automated ultrasonic machine (US made) and another dual tank cleaner at work for cleaning electronics, the cleaning performance varied a lot depending on how dirty the items were, the type of dirt/contamination, etc. We were never allowed to put items in that hadn't been de-greased either. The larger machine often left dirt on flat surfaces and then baked it on in the drying stages, but did have filters in the pre wash & wash tanks to extend the life of the cleaning solution. I did sneak the odd O&R part in but had limited success, also neither machine made any difference to items that were corroded. Do you have any experience of the small cheap machines? Some people over on the vintage radio forum haven't been impressed by them. David