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factory

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Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. There is only one page showing the LMB carbs, I guess it shouldn't be too hard to clean and replace the gaskets & O ring mentioned, as always take lots of pictures to help with reassembly. David
  2. Is it like any of the carbs listed in the "Carburetor identification" guide here?; http://www.clintonengines.us/Tech_Data.html Or the "Carburetor overhaul" guide on this page?; http://www.clintonengines.us/Maintenance_Overhaul.html I suspect the manual you have found will have the correct information for servicing the carb. David
  3. Sounds like your nearly finished, I had fun getting my first starter spring back in too. Yes we recommend a 32:1 oil/fuel mix with non synthetic (mineral) 2-stroke oil, so far only one forum member has said that the synthetic oil they tried caused problems with an O&R. @usedtoolman recommended using avgas as it supposedly doesn't contain the ethanol that is added to regular auto gas. It may run hotter but I can't see it being a major problem as nitro/glow fuel was used in the model helicopters & some model boats. The LL seems to be low lead, I've never tried it myself as I'm not near any airports. Some premium gas in the UK is supposed to have no or lower ethanol, finding a station that sells it is the problem and the people behind the counter don't always know what they are selling. David EDIT: Here is an old post with a link that may help with finding ethanol free gas in the US & Canada I've noticed in the last couple of months the pump nozzles at large petrol stations in the UK are now labelled E5 for ethanol tainted petrol/gas (or B7 for biodiesel), apparently this labelling become mandatory on Sept 1st in the UK, so it should help us avoid that stuff for our old engines. David
  4. I hadn't noticed till I downloaded the brochure, it is a very high quality scan. It also confirms that Clinton didn't use the standard Walbro carb for the 20A. David
  5. Wow that was a good find, has it got a AEP label on it or did Clinton hide the fact they outsourced the engine to someone else? If these were produced from 1975 to 1978 then the engine will be an AEP one. How much was it then, you could PM if you don't want to say here? Much better picture of the Clinton K-150 Outboard in the 1975 brochure here; http://www.clintonengines.us/Outboards.html Looks like the camo paint hasn't adhered very well in places, are you able to clean it off to restore the original finish? David
  6. The manual for the Little Wonder Power-Head & attachments can be found here, need to move them to the sticky thread. David
  7. It should be fine to use the diaphragm gasket, there is nothing in any service bulletins about the change, one of many small changes/improvements they did over the years. The rubber material used for the earlier check valve was the same as used for the diaphragm, I've had one that wouldn't stay flat and another missing the little valve part, they changed to using a better material later on but never changed the part number. David
  8. Was it a Series 20A engine then or a Tanaka engine? David
  9. The OP hasn't logged in since September 2018, I was emailing about these but stopped getting replies after the 20th Sept 2018, I hope he's OK. David
  10. Another nice find, it's a re-brand of the Little Wonder Power-Head with Cultivator attachment, they also made a Snow-Blower attachment, I have neither of these. I nearly bought one of the Derby Tiller versions a few years back, but the guy never got back to me on the international shipping so it never happened. I'm guessing not many survive as they probably got chucked out when the blades got broken or worn out. David
  11. Anything with a Series 20A engine is much less common, hopefully it is one & you can haggle the price down. David
  12. Nice find, this is either the Ohlsson & Rice Utility Pump or Orline version, the impeller pump was used by many different manufacturers. At least one of these made it to the UK, it was exhibited at Mill Meece Pumping Station in 2018 (I didn't see it myself, but it was pictured in the Sept 2018 edition of the Stationary engine magazine together with not a very good write-up on O&R Compact engines, including that incorrect Korean War reference again ). David
  13. No & no, I suspect there were already too many larger outboards available at the time to make it worth developing, but you never know. David
  14. Good to hear it was the correct part for the starter mechanism, was it obviously drilled out from the back or broken/fallen out? Engine serial # 048537, from my information the best estimate I can give for when it was made is 1963, only engines produced after June 1967 can be dated to the exact month of production (they have the year & month coded as part of the SN). John (Wallfish) had the paper diaphragm gaskets & the carb check valve laser cut too. If you have the air filter asembly don't forget to clean out all the perished crumbly filter foam. You may find the rubber wiring inside the alternator is perished, same as the magneto coil wires go on these early engines. The guide from John (Wallfish) should help even though it's for the larger tank version of the Tiny Tiger, the alternator section is the same. And the Tiny Tiger instructions I scanned also has disassembly instructions; David
  15. Well I googled the Sugar Bush Supplies Co which eventually lead me to the archive for the Maple Syrup Digest, I spent a while looking through all the 1960's editions and could only find the one O&R (the King Drillgine). G.H. Grimm of Rutland Vermont & Geo. H. Soule. of St Albans Vermont seem to have had some similar products. The G.H. Soule. Queen tapper looks similar but not identical to your G.H. Grimm tree tapper, I'm not sure if the engine is the same either, see page 10 of the Maple Syrup Digest from Jan 1962. http://www.maplesyrupdigest.org/?m=196201 David
  16. There are at least two more O&R powered drills, the Petro Chug-A-Drill and the 3 speed Bridges Mini-Mota drill. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1404-bridges-mini-mota-3-speed-drill/ https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1375-restored-petro-drill-chug-a-drill/ And another, the Savidge Drill mentioned in one of the magazine articles in the 'sticky' thread, we haven't seen one of these yet as far as I know; Popular Science January 1962 pages 191 & 192, 194 & 214 Savidge Drill. David
  17. Is it anything like the backpack tapping machines shown on page 12 of the 1961 catalog archived by Dominion & Grimm here?: http://www.dominiongrimm.ca/en/liquidation Also a similar machine which was invented & patented by R.L. Soule and E.I. Soule, known as the King portable power tree tapper, see about 2/3rds of the way down the page here; http://maplesyruphistory.com/2019/03/23/evaporator-company-histories-george-h-soule/ David
  18. It's the same design as the Tiny Tiger, POWR MITE is a re-brand, they have also removed the raised Tiny Tiger lettering from the alternator end housing. Type 111 is the engine model and is commonly found on older Tiny Tigers, the other number is the engine serial number. I can't see the base plate in your pictures, which is maybe why it looks different to other Tiny Tigers, here is one I made (on the right) out of a stainless steel offcut, the original is aluminium. Be sure to check out the carb rebuild 'sticky' thread if you haven't already seen it. I've got various rods/shafts salvaged from broken cassette players & other scrap electronic items, they can be cut to size with a Dremel (or similar tool) to fit the carb. Can you confirm if the missing 'cup' from the starter is actually the crankshaft thrust disc (#148-3) that goes in loose with the felt oil washer. These parts are not actually mentioned on any of the early 1960's parts lists, maybe they weren't used before 1964? I need to check this. Part #131-1 is the bearing for the starter reel and I can't see why it would be missing unless someone had removed out the rivet (which shouldn't need to be removed do to rebuild the starter mechanism), please confirm. The grommet is a standard part that you should be able to find easily, commonly used on electrical/electronic panels to protect wiring/cables that pass through. David
  19. Your right Paul, I'm not quick enough. The engine is possibly a Type 100, there is some overlap with serial numbers & 3/4HP/0.85HP engines at time this was made, but the lack of fins on the crankcase suggests that it is most likely to be a 3/4HP one. My information also suggests it should have a plastic reed valve. David
  20. Those parts don't look too difficult to replicate, it might need a bit of experimentation to find out the length of the rods required for the two different sized boards that @Mekash has. David
  21. Doesn't look too bad to me, most of the other commonly missing engine parts are still with it, but did it come with the chuck key? There should be a model letter or number stamped into the opposite crankcase flange. I'd be interested in re-homing it too as I haven't got an earlier Drillgine. David
  22. Here is another part I have made for the Aquabug, the carbs don't have the usual air filter, instead they have a gauze filter held with a plastic retainer. Neither of my two Aquabug's had the gauze so I cut a piece to size, I made a retainer from a shortened plastic end cap with a hole cut in the end. David
  23. Found a 620RPM KING Drillgine (re-branded) in the Maple Syrup Digest (Jan 1964) on page 15; http://www.maplesyrupdigest.org/?p=125 It seems the Sugar Bush Supplies Company had much smaller ads than competitor Geo. H. Soule Co. Inc. David
  24. Instructions!!! very little seems to come with those these days, usually only get a few pages of elf & safety information, how to recycle/dispose of it, sign up here for extended guarantee (no thanks) and nothing on how to actually use it. Sugar bush seems to be the name given to farms with a lot of maple trees producing maple syrup, sugar bush farms may have anywhere from a few hundred to many thousands of maple trees, which may explain the larger than normal gas tank. I've not found anything on this drill yet but have found several power tapping products made by other companies in the 1960's, including a larger 2¾HP engine powered version and a battery powered electric version. David
  25. So they are all slightly different, never knew they were made in different sizes. Hopefully Don @BabaBooey will see your request for some pictures of the foot controlled throttle mechanism, looks like you may be able to help him with some pictures of the drive belt guard that is missing from his Toby Cart. David
 
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