factory

Yes the Type 196 has the same gearbox as a Model JIII (900 R.P.M. reduction, counter clockwise PTO shaft), but the Type 196 engine has a back-shaft with a flat, part no #42-49. David.

Usually the original or previous owner takes it apart after something like the starter mechanism breaks and before the web existed they probably couldn't get parts (after O&R/AEP closed down), or figure out how to get it back together, so left it in bits or never put them back on. I will check my info and let you know. David

Apologies for not responding quicker, I've been very busy with family this weekend. Very strange that the Model B engine has the gearbox, I do wonder if a new engine was fitted to the gearbox from another older engine, it should really have a different letter or number to identify the gearbox type, maybe a repair shop never stamped those details, I guess we will never know. It should still be possible to find out the gearbox type by the numbers of teeth on each gear & if there is a clutch fitted (or not). If my information is correct serial numbers around #100000 date from the time that the Compact I, II, & III were available, possibly they were using up stocks of old parts when the updated Compact III engine became available, for example I have SN #099677 stamped as a Compact I with 10mm spark-plug and SN #103001 stamped as a Compact III with a 14mm spark-plug. Hopefully I can find time to double-check both types of tapered PTO shaft will fit during the week or next weekend. David

I've checked the parts lists for most common engine types used on chainsaws and most use the flat 'D' back-shaft apart from the early type 185 (and no I haven't checked one to verify). The tapered back-shaft with key-ways, I have found these on a Champ generator, I don't remember any keys fitted to either the back-shaft or coupling for the generator, pictures below of the back-shaft & coupling from my K.C. Wiggins Champ restoration. David

I guess you missed these two threads, with a guide from @Wallfish and the original instructions (second link), yes the generator needs removing first to get to the screws for the engine block. David

The 'B' refers to it being a tank mount model, 'II' is for Compact II (0.85HP) this should have the improved bearings, the rest is the serial number. I'm curious to know if it has a model number or type stamped into the other side (arrowed). That is the standard model/type originally used for older Tiny Tigers. My bench is usually a mess too. So was my bench at work, much to the annoyance of the managers who would ask me to spent time tidying it up. What is wrong with the cylinder fitted? the 14mm spark-plugs are easy to find. David

They have only been on there a long time because they weren't listed with Ohlsson & Rice in the title, always good to have spares of those as they are so often missing, despite what the service bulletin says. David

How much does it actually cost to ship these generators within the US? The generator section will be most of the weight & shipping cost. It's even worse for us UK collectors, usually well over $100 to ship overseas, plus import tax, etc. David

That was the same item I posted, just without all the extra keywords & random letter/number gibberish that ebay URL's give. I bought a few bits from them about 4 or 5 years ago* when the currency conversion rate was cheaper, they were happy to combine shipping but that was all, low value listings like these don't make for sellers (with all the ebay fees, paypal fees, etc), hence why they can't do much for a deal. David *Hence my earlier comment about looking closely at the condition of the parts, some of which are damaged or very corroded.

Shouldn't be too hard to fix if the bolt is meant to be longer and have a lock-nut fitted. If you haven't already found one, this is available from on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/151651948770 Just be careful looking through the sellers other parts, as some are heavily corroded scrap or were damaged on removal. David

Maybe they can be persuaded to ship it , it'd probably help a bit if they removed that heavy electric motor too, it would have gone long ago if it wasn't pick-up only. David

Good to hear you made it to Arizona OK, hope everything works out & you settle in fine at your new job. Good to hear it's going to a good home, the starter housing looks to just need a good clean, the rest needs some rust cleaning up, not sure if the coil can be repaired or not. I do wonder how much use it had, as the exhaust collector isn't discolored as you would expect from a well used example. Same here, I have a few incomplete spare engines for parts, nice to have them so you can complete a restoration without having to find more parts. David

Hopefully you can get good deal for the parts engine. I'm not surprised the TT seller didn't want to come down in price as it was an auction and has gone for $96 + shipping. David

You could probably make a bit doing that, but you will end up with a lot of parts that no one wants, as that chainsaw parts seller on ePay has. David

No, the carbs are on ePay too. The only part I can't see is the starter cord & pull handle that was with the Drill. Maybe they wanted the Drill, but it's now got a broken gearbox housing with handle snapped off (not sure why they describe a hole in the gearbox as a crack either ). I hadn't noticed before but the prices may be high due to shipping being included in asking price. There is another more complete TT available for $75 + shipping at the moment. David

There's a TT parts motor on epay now. Search Tiny Tiger and you should find it. Nothing to loose by "making an offer" and asking a few questions. Looks like it might have all the parts you need plus some If it's the one I'm thinking of (below), then the seller bought that job lot of parts TT & Drill for only $75. Don't offer too much for it. David

I'll have a look through my damaged carbs & spares and let you know if I can help with some original ones, I'm out tomorrow so it will probably be Sunday when I get a chance. Also I have now found a UK supplier for flat head fillister screws as well (plain or black stainless available), they don't have Philips head ones, but Webhead has helped with those in the past. I do have an eye for the detail, plus an archive of pictures permanently borrowed from ePay & goolge to help. David

You said you were looking for a cylinder baffle for your current project (the Toby Cart), if you were to make a replica of the type normally found on the C/Saw, then you will have that spare newer one for the other engine, just a thought. David

The Model F engine is in lovely condition, almost NOS, sadly I haven't got the history of what it was originally bought/used for, that is if it was ever fitted to anything. David

Are the screws your looking for the carb three smaller ones or the larger one? David

Looking very nice , should there be a nut (circled area in picture) attaching the bolt for the rear wheels? Some of the others in this thread seem to have one. Make sure they know how to stop the engine should they need to. David

These compressors don't have a piston, it uses a rubber diaphragm instead. The speedy sprayer versions were sold without motors for around $30 in the early 1960's, see the google books link in post #5 for the 1961 advert. Anyone fancy a challenge, there is a speedy sprayer on ePay at the moment for $40 (or make offer), remove the 1725 R.P.M. motor and add the appropriate O&R engine. Only problem is it's pick-up/collection only from Louisville, Kentucky; https://www.ebay.com/itm/143159860677 David

Here are some pictures of my O&R Model H (1700 R.P.M.) the serial number has been removed from this one and the coil HT wire has a join where it has been repaired. David

It would be a shame to part out that nice model H. I thought you had finished the C/Saw, what screws do you need? Maybe post on the C/saw thread. David

The Model H is a 1700 R.P.M version (3.666 to 1 gear ratio) with clutch, Model E is the same with no clutch. I haven't got these yet, but Model G is 3300 R.P.M. (1.896 to 1 gear ratio) with clutch, Model D is the same with no clutch. The Model J (900 R.P.M.) is more common than any of the above. The Model H on ebay certainly looks like it will clean up nicely, it's just a shame the tank got battered (at least it has one) & the coil is knackered, anyone tried negotiating a better price? David