factory

Looks good and as it's German made we might actually be able to find some over here too. David

I'm sure you will have a much better chance of finding another Auger than we have over here in the UK, keep looking you will find one. You also missed the running Lancaster (or rebrand) 20A chainsaw, that went for very little on ePay, I hope it went to someone on here. And as you found a Pony Express so easily, I had to borrow this award from another forum for you, I've not seen one for years (edit: I've only ever seen one sold before). David

I've not seen one of those advertised for sale for years, the 'Chicken Power' to 'Pony Express' name change seems to have happened after O&R became AEP. All the late AEP produced tools I've seen are painted all over, the paint doesn't seem to stay attached that well though. David

If the information in the link is correct the Homelite has a much bigger engine than the O&R, which probably explains why it's more powerful. http://www.acresinternet.com/ Homelite XL100 You probably can, McMaster even make them to order, their website has information to work out the size required (which is useful if the original has stretched with age, is broken or completely missing). https://www.mcmaster.com/drive-belts And yes SN #007280 is the 7280th engine they sold, probably produced around 1961. David P.S. I probably won't be on here much today or tomorrow, as I'm off to a show on Sunday, hopefully it will stay dry.

Probably too late but here are some pictures of the carb I found today, the screw is 1/2" long after the spring washer, the needle will be useful as I have an early engine that needs one. If the screw is of any use I will find out how much it would cost to send over. The fine toothed blade looks a much better choice than, is belt the original? I guess it still works well because the Comet C/saw doesn't use a gearbox, the early gears were made of cast alloy which quickly ended up with stripped teeth, probably not helped if the gearbox oil escaped through poor gearbox seals, O&R changed to using grease later on, anyone rebuilding one should use grease too. Because they don't work that great and the lack of power. Not to mention the carbs suck (except for gas and air) so I'm sure many people just gave up. Certainly good for us collectors many years later! I have a Homelite XL100 saw that will power through a 4x4 easily with an aggressive blade at full depth. Fun to use but it's heavy. Does the Homelite have belt drive? The Orline circular saw also has belt drive and I noticed the advert showing a similar aggressive blade (one of two blade/disc types supplied with it). David

Just be aware of any engines produced before June 1967, these will have a SN from 000001 to approx 142000, these numbers do not have any date code in them. Another common problem, maybe I need to start a new thread to help people identify the age and/or type of engine used on the various tools. David

Ah, that is why I wanted to confirm it as the bulletin didn't say what type of screw/bolt it was. I have found a slotted screw with a spring washer the correct length on a parts carb, the screw isn't black though, let me know if it's any use. David P.S. I have added some samples of the slotted head fillister screws to my order from Accu.co.uk, I won't get them till the 29th August as some of the parts are made to order.

Possible alternate screw is #26-93, listed as #10-32 x 1/2", need to find one to confirm. I would suggest that if there is a minimum order of 50 or 100 #10-32 fillister head screws to buy some that are longer & cut them down, as they maybe more useful later on. Some other common #10-32 screws used on these engines include: 9/16" thread length for tank mounting and gearbox covers screws with thread lengths of 1 1/8", 1 3/8" & 1 5/16". David

Glad I could help, not many people ask about engine serial numbers & dates, but I have been collecting any information on serial numbers & other historical information for quite a long time, hence all those magazine articles I found as a result. Engines produced before June 1967 are harder to date, but it's not impossible to give an estimate. My Drillgine is a very late one, type 13B403 SN 8080307, which dates from August 1978, produced about a month before AEP was dissolved. David P.S. Those plates with the serial number on frustrate me because they are sometimes missing, something O&R thought would be "seldom, if ever lost".

Well the short answer is no. For a start I can just about make out in the picture that the serial number is stamped into the cylinder plate (cooling baffle), they didn't start doing this till August 1969, they also stopped stamping the number into the crankcase at this point. Secondly from September 1970 all engines had the new model identifications i.e. 13A, 13B, 20A. Thirdly and this is where it can get very confusing if the serial number is interpreted incorrectly (without checking the first two points). All serial numbers from June 1967 have the year & month codified into them, the format is YMSSSS or YMMSSSS, first number identifies the year, second (and third) number/s the month, the remaining four numbers are engine S/N which restarted at 0001 each month. There is potential for some numbers to have been used twice in the years ending in 67/77 or 68/78, but the first two points will confirm the correct year. After Aug 1969 the only SN format used is YMMSSSS. Engine 13B403 #6092030 will have been made in September 1976, it may also carry the AEP name instead of O&R. Hope this helps. David

The 1HP rating is for a nominal speed of 6300rpm. They did do laboratory tests at higher speeds where they obtained a max of 1.1HP at approx 8000rpm, but production engines are stated to not have less than 85% of this (which I calculate to be 0.935HP), of course this will not represent real world conditions. I have posted the BHP curve graph from the AEP Series 13B engine specifications somewhere before, but here it is again. The full 1975 AEP Series 13B engine specifications can be found in the manuals sticky thread here; All correct, 21.9cc is round down from 21.95867cc (which is converted from 1.34 cubic inches) as far as I know O&R only gave the displacement in cubic inches. David

Here is a link to Chris's nice Comet C/Saw. Just had a look through my saved pictures and found this one showing the type of blade originally supplied with the Comet C/Saw, is this more aggressive than the one you are currently using? I'm also surprised that so many of these Comet Saws appear to have had very little use. David

Yes it's for the early carb used on this C/Saw, I posted some pictures of the early carb & all the bits in the carb repair sticky thread (as the thread had no pictures of that carb). I'm surprised he had the needle valve #18-12 & spring #21-20, as these were no longer available in the 1971 master parts list (probably discontinued years before but can't confirm as I haven't got any other lists). The jet screw #26-18 (as O&R called it) was still available in 1971, but only direct from the factory. Note: O&R had changed to using only Phillips head screws for the engines by Jan 1970 according to service bulletin SE-045. David

This is the nearest I can find for sale in the UK, unfortunately it's a minimum order of 50. https://www.accu.co.uk/en/fillister-screws/178874-SFI-10-32-1-2-A2-BL Do you want me to see if I can find one on a parts engine? Could take me a while. David P.S. have you asked Wallfish or Webhead?

That is a standard part, a #10-32 fillister head screw with 1/2" thread length and a spring washer, the only ones I have are on carbs. I do have some longer screws I bought for the base tanks from a car parts supplier in the UK, I would shorten one of these if I needed a carb screw, I imagine it would cost less to buy a pack of them in the US than it would be to ship one over and you would probably be able to find the correct length too. David

Good to hear you found some. I just remembered that they re-used that spring on later carbs for the governor mechanism, though by 1971 you could no longer obtain it as a spare part, see post #5 linked below. David

If you need some help identifying your unknown parts, add some pictures in an appropriate thread (or start a new one) and we can help. David

It is thin steel & shouldn't be too hard to make, it attaches in the same place as the cylinder side plate, the later style coil cover would be trickier to make. Some close up pictures of the early cover. David

Looks like you found the correct one, have a look at the 1961 parts list & separate pdf of the parts diagram, it not the easiest to follow and is very faint in places due to being printed in blue, it's probably the nearest one to your engine. #21-20 is the spring to go with the needle valve. David

I wish we had something as good as McMaster Carr in the UK, their website is superb too. David

Looks very nice, those feet would probably be good to replace perished ones on some of the older tools too. And wondering where they can get replacement feet for it too, I do wonder if young people in 25 years time will know what an engine is with everything going electric these days. I've had my display of O&R tools at shows and even had people ask what the engines came off, or did you take all those off hedge cutters, they thought I had added them to the tools. David

That's an early carburettor as you already know, which would have originally had a side mounted needle valve, the diaphragm bowl has a screw in place of the later needle valve shown in your pictures. It's possible it got converted to the later style needle valve at some point in the past, in this case the hole in the side would have a small screw to blank it off, the later needle valve assembly should fit if you unscrew the needle part before fitting. Here are some pictures of a side needle valve carb I rebuilt sometime ago, if you need any more pictures let me know. All the parts (note: that rubber check valve in these goes bad the same as the diaphragm does). Lower half showing side needle valve. Complete early carb (note: the earliest ones didn't have the primer button, but a modification kit was produced for a very short time to add this). David P.S. I'm sure we can find you a side needle valve should you need one.

Looks like plenty of time for people to bid, the auction ends on the 3rd of August, there are a couple of O&R compact industrial engines and lots of Ohlsson model engines too (these predate the Compact engines). David

No I've only got pictures of them, but I have got an engine I believe was intended as a spare for the Comet saw. David

Could be a drop shipper* with multiple accounts, that didn't have them in stock and couldn't get any quickly, so fobbed you off with shipment tracking delays. *The worst kind of seller, often copying vast inventories of stuff from other website over & over, till ePay gets saturated with items all the same (insert thumbs down emoji we don't have here!). There are also a lot of legitimate accounts getting hacked all the time, as soon as the listings get taken down they appear again under another hacked account, the scammers must make enough to keep doing this. David