factory

The 1HP rating is for a nominal speed of 6300rpm. They did do laboratory tests at higher speeds where they obtained a max of 1.1HP at approx 8000rpm, but production engines are stated to not have less than 85% of this (which I calculate to be 0.935HP), of course this will not represent real world conditions. I have posted the BHP curve graph from the AEP Series 13B engine specifications somewhere before, but here it is again. The full 1975 AEP Series 13B engine specifications can be found in the manuals sticky thread here; All correct, 21.9cc is round down from 21.95867cc (which is converted from 1.34 cubic inches) as far as I know O&R only gave the displacement in cubic inches. David

Here is a link to Chris's nice Comet C/Saw. Just had a look through my saved pictures and found this one showing the type of blade originally supplied with the Comet C/Saw, is this more aggressive than the one you are currently using? I'm also surprised that so many of these Comet Saws appear to have had very little use. David

Yes it's for the early carb used on this C/Saw, I posted some pictures of the early carb & all the bits in the carb repair sticky thread (as the thread had no pictures of that carb). I'm surprised he had the needle valve #18-12 & spring #21-20, as these were no longer available in the 1971 master parts list (probably discontinued years before but can't confirm as I haven't got any other lists). The jet screw #26-18 (as O&R called it) was still available in 1971, but only direct from the factory. Note: O&R had changed to using only Phillips head screws for the engines by Jan 1970 according to service bulletin SE-045. David

This is the nearest I can find for sale in the UK, unfortunately it's a minimum order of 50. https://www.accu.co.uk/en/fillister-screws/178874-SFI-10-32-1-2-A2-BL Do you want me to see if I can find one on a parts engine? Could take me a while. David P.S. have you asked Wallfish or Webhead?

That is a standard part, a #10-32 fillister head screw with 1/2" thread length and a spring washer, the only ones I have are on carbs. I do have some longer screws I bought for the base tanks from a car parts supplier in the UK, I would shorten one of these if I needed a carb screw, I imagine it would cost less to buy a pack of them in the US than it would be to ship one over and you would probably be able to find the correct length too. David

Good to hear you found some. I just remembered that they re-used that spring on later carbs for the governor mechanism, though by 1971 you could no longer obtain it as a spare part, see post #5 linked below. David

If you need some help identifying your unknown parts, add some pictures in an appropriate thread (or start a new one) and we can help. David

It is thin steel & shouldn't be too hard to make, it attaches in the same place as the cylinder side plate, the later style coil cover would be trickier to make. Some close up pictures of the early cover. David

Looks like you found the correct one, have a look at the 1961 parts list & separate pdf of the parts diagram, it not the easiest to follow and is very faint in places due to being printed in blue, it's probably the nearest one to your engine. #21-20 is the spring to go with the needle valve. David

I wish we had something as good as McMaster Carr in the UK, their website is superb too. David

Looks very nice, those feet would probably be good to replace perished ones on some of the older tools too. And wondering where they can get replacement feet for it too, I do wonder if young people in 25 years time will know what an engine is with everything going electric these days. I've had my display of O&R tools at shows and even had people ask what the engines came off, or did you take all those off hedge cutters, they thought I had added them to the tools. David

That's an early carburettor as you already know, which would have originally had a side mounted needle valve, the diaphragm bowl has a screw in place of the later needle valve shown in your pictures. It's possible it got converted to the later style needle valve at some point in the past, in this case the hole in the side would have a small screw to blank it off, the later needle valve assembly should fit if you unscrew the needle part before fitting. Here are some pictures of a side needle valve carb I rebuilt sometime ago, if you need any more pictures let me know. All the parts (note: that rubber check valve in these goes bad the same as the diaphragm does). Lower half showing side needle valve. Complete early carb (note: the earliest ones didn't have the primer button, but a modification kit was produced for a very short time to add this). David P.S. I'm sure we can find you a side needle valve should you need one.

Looks like plenty of time for people to bid, the auction ends on the 3rd of August, there are a couple of O&R compact industrial engines and lots of Ohlsson model engines too (these predate the Compact engines). David

No I've only got pictures of them, but I have got an engine I believe was intended as a spare for the Comet saw. David

Could be a drop shipper* with multiple accounts, that didn't have them in stock and couldn't get any quickly, so fobbed you off with shipment tracking delays. *The worst kind of seller, often copying vast inventories of stuff from other website over & over, till ePay gets saturated with items all the same (insert thumbs down emoji we don't have here!). There are also a lot of legitimate accounts getting hacked all the time, as soon as the listings get taken down they appear again under another hacked account, the scammers must make enough to keep doing this. David

Looking forward to seeing it completed. David

Here is another picture showing the back of the coil cover, which unlike the later ones is completely open, I guess something in that style could be made to replace the missing one. Something else I've noticed is the extended tube for the muffler, I've checked through my other saved pictures and a few other early ones (with the round tank & larger handle) have this too, including the C/Saw K-TRON repaired earlier this year. Also interesting to see they put the air filter in the other handle too (carb side). David

Good to see you sorted it out . I didn't suggest that method as sometimes you can make coils, transformers or other wound components worse, if a soldered joint further inside goes open circuit as a result. I have done delicate surgery on (unobtainable custom wound) potted transformers at work, using a heat-gun to gently soften the compound, then digging a little bit out at a time to find the failed solder joint(s), again I had to be careful not to use too much heat to avoid disturbing other joints. As parts can be scarce, you sometimes have to resort to either figuring a way of repairing it or making a new part from scratch. David

Unfortunately the wires don't come out of those coils (not without destroying them anyway), they will probably be soldered inside too. They often have perished rubber wiring, hence why I sleeve them, never seen a new coil for sale over here either. I have seen the the plug wire fallen out of several later coils, exposing a pin at the bottom for the connection, but this won't help with the earlier ones. David

There are three different versions of the Comet circular saw that I know of; The first & earliest (1961 or earlier) branded Comet C/Saw, I can't imagine many survived for long without the tank getting damaged; Second version same as yours, also branded Comet C/Saw with improved tank handle; And finally the later version, branded Comet Tote'N Tools, with cast tank; Have you got the special cover that Comet used for the magneto coil? David P.S. None of these are mine, I only have a Comet pump myself.

They had brochures listing various engines (with or without gearboxes, clutches & tanks) that could be bought for building into whatever project you could think of. A couple of later tools in my collection have the blanked off vent next to the filler cap, but they also have the filler extended too. David

Those early coils often have crumbly insulation on the wires, heat-shrink sleeving works OK, just be careful not the overheat the plastic casing of the coil. David

Nice that's an early one with the starter housing screws in the back, I've seen several new looking engines for these C-Saws on eBay over the years, no idea what people did with the rest of the saws. Are 8" blades obsolete too? I've found 4" grinding discs are no longer made too, they must do it deliberately to get people to buy more tools they don't need. David

Just had a look at the sockets again, actually it wasn't the outside that was the problem, it was the inside not being as deep as it looked. The Japanese one I got from a junk stall fitted, whereas the expensive Snap-on didn't (I really should stick it back on the bay). David

Same here, finding time to work on my O&R's or vintage electronic stuff is difficult at the moment. David