factory

I'm still a little confused, did you service the carb? You can check the carb primer works by attaching a short piece of fuel line to the inlet, put the open end of the fuel pipe in some fuel and see if it will pump fuel when pressing the primer button. If it doesn't pump fuel, check the ball isn't stuck to the valve seat (they can stick with dried out old oil) and that the diaphragm is in good condition (flexible with no cracks) if you haven't renewed it of coarse. As for the tank, only one pipe goes to the bottom of the tank, that is the fuel pipe and has the filter, the other two pipes are bridged to prevent an airlock and are not for fuel to pass through. You can check if they are blocked by part filling the tank and tilting it vertically (with something underneath to catch the fuel), cleaning can only really be done with fuel, try leaving some in it for a few days, or use or carb cleaner etc down the pipe. If there is a lot of dirt in the bottom of the tank I also put some nuts in the tank with the fuel and shake it to dislodge the dirt. Pour out the contents and repeat if necessary. David

Was it fitted with the base fuel tank? If so, there is a fine mesh filter inside at the bottom of the fuel pipe, the other two pipes are linked together (preventing an airlock at the opposite side to the filler). It could need cleaning or the fuel line maybe connected to the wrong pipe. It should be possible to remove the screws without damage providing the screwdrivers fit properly, early engines used slotted head screws & later ones have Phillips head screws (Pozi-Driv screwdrivers are a poor fit and can damage Phillips screw-heads). They are sometimes replaced with whatever a previous owner could obtain or bodged with incorrect screws. Penetrating oil/fluid usually helps with anything tight or corroded as you mentioned. David

Hi Todd, It would be interesting to see pictures of the complete chainsaw, both your Orline Chainsaw-1 Model 103 & the Ford branded version above are updated versions of the earlier Orline Mustang chainsaw (I have the Sears branded version in my collection). I really should look through my saved pictures and add pictures of all the versions I've seen to the forum, I haven't got any pictures of the Model 103 though but do have pictures of the Model 123 chainsaw. 13B 342 is actually the engine model & type, not the part number of the carb. No-one has yet found a source for replacement diaphragm arm rubber seals used in the late production engines, there is more info in this thread from earlier this year, with a possible solution that hasn't been tried out yet; The only solution we have at the moment is to change out the bottom half of the diaphragm primer assembly & arm for the earlier ones that have the ball valve instead of the rubber seal. Is the 'U' shaped diaphragm arm spring missing from your carb? I can't see it in the pictures. Also don't forget to remove the old disintegrating air filter foam, as it can cause damage if it gets sucked into the engine. Webhead and Wallfish on here have spare parts for these engines as well as the new diaphragms for the carb. David

Here is a picture (which I'm sure I've posted before) showing the inside of the crankcase from a Turbair engine of mine that has ingested lots of the old filter in the past (not run by me), I should really investigate it further to see what condition the cylinder is in. David

No damage will happen to the coil or condenser from using the brass strip stop switch, it simply shorts out the primary winding of the coil to the engine casing, the primary windings consist of a small amount of turns of thick wire. Magneto coils usually fail on the secondary (high tension) windings, which consist of a lot of turns of very fine wire, failure is usually due to water ingress/insulation breakdown or corrosion of the wire (fails open circuit). Battery coils are a different matter all together, the primary windings can burn out if energised continuously. Too much oil will result in a very smoky engine and would likely need the spark-plug cleaned more often. O&R stopped recommending Outboard oil around 1964 to reduce the amount of carbon build up over time. The thing to worry about with modern oil is the additives in some of them, TC-W3 (NMMA trademark) is a marine certification standard (although that doesn't mean you can't use it for non-marine applications), you would probably get good advice from someone with lots of experience at a garden machinery repair shop, instead of big chain auto/car stores (where the sales staff often know nothing about the stuff they sell). The small bits of the filter foam can; get stuck in the feather valve preventing it from closing and cause premature wear/damage the bearings in the same way as dirt, grit or sand can. The oil in the fuel helps it stick to everything inside. It all depends on how much of the old foam got sucked inside and how far it got, which is difficult to tell without further examination, I don't know if anyone on here has managed to clean the old foam out without disassembly. I usually dissemble mine anyway, to make cleaning the parts easier, identify & replace any damaged or worn parts, renew gaskets and to clean & re-grease the bearings. I've not rebuilt any O&R's with a gearbox yet though, but there is a completely dissembled Chicken Power bike engine with gearbox still to do (was bought like that). David

Here is a picture of my O&R display at the Peover Game Fair last weekend, I didn't realise I had forgotten to put the base plate back on the Tiny Tiger until I unpacked it at the show, I took it off a while ago to make a copy from. Thankfully the forecast rain held off till I was back at home and everything was back inside. David

Modern two stroke oils are much better than the oils that were available when these engines were made, mixing to the ratio on the starter decal with modern oils will result in a very smoky exhaust, using too little oil will result in dry bearings & premature wear. Using a 32:1 mix of good quality AIR cooled two stroke oil should be good, I have been using Stihl HP oil (for all my two stroke engines) which was recommended by someone I know that uses two stroke chainsaws regularly. Both outboard oil & #30 SAE oil (the modern equivalent is NOT suitable due to the additives used) have been mentioned in instructions for these engines over the years. David

For long term storage draining the tank & running till all fuel is gone was recommended in the winterising procedure. There are two ways to stop the O&R engine, one is the brass stop switch on the back of the magneto plate (exhaust side) or a remote stop switch (used on some tools), both of these short-out the primary of the magneto. The second method is to close the choke (as you mentioned). On early engines there was an optional third method, a shorting strip for the top of the spark-plug, shorting the spark-plug can be used if other methods of stopping an engine have failed (usually with a well insulated screwdriver). Here is a picture of the brass stop switch, And the (optional) HT shorting strip on an early engine, David

Hi Zak You could start a new thread, or add to a relevant existing one and we can help with any other questions you may have. The Compact engines were of course designed as a small industrial engine to be used for powering all sorts of portable tools, but were also used for powering (and still are) models. David

You may be best using clean fuel then, as I've never tried carb cleaner I don't know what it can damage (certainly some electronic & switch cleaner sprays can damage plastics or cause other problems with vintage electronics). Be careful the power output shaft doesn't slide out & let the tiny bearing rollers fall out, if you take the induction housing apart and nothing is attached to it. The only adjustment for the timing is the contact breaker gap (should be listed on the starter decal along with the spark plug gap). The flywheel position is fixed with a key. David

The TAS Motor (Tanaka) does look to have copied some features of the Ohlsson & Rice Compact engine, I'm not sure if your drill has the P5 or P7 engine, there doesn't seem to be much info on these on the web, even Hitachi Power Tools (they acquired Tanaka in 2007) don't have any manuals going back that far on their website. They do claim they "Introduced the world’s smallest industrial general-purpose two-cycle engine- P7 (22cc)" in 1962, the O&R Compact engine dates back to at least 1961 (1.26 Cubic Inches or approx 20.65cc). http://www.hitachipowertools.com/us/main-navigation/tanaka-history The history mentions that Villiers (misspelt Villers on their website) had a licensing agreement to manufacture the P7 engine. Also your drill isn't exactly the same as the other Tanaka drill on here; David

See the linked post for checking the carb inlet, there is a one-way ball valve inside the diaphragm chamber. It's best to disassemble and clean all the parts of the carb using either clean fuel or carb cleaner. The air vane fits inside the shaft of the butterfly valve (left side of carb), here is a picture I took earlier. The butterfly valve will be open normally, it closes when the blade part above the flywheel moves up with increasing air flow. There shouldn't be any need to clean the crankcase with the cylinder removed unless there are bits of the old air filter inside (these would be visible inside the carb & induction housing), I would follow the engine rebuild thread if you have this problem, which is caused by running the engine without removing the old disintegrating foam. There is a special tool that fits the slot in the top of the cylinder for unscrewing it, you will need to replace the exhaust collector gaskets if you need to remove the cylinder for de-carbonising, they tend to leak if you don't replace them. See the last post in the engine rebuild thread for a details of the cylinder removal tool. Taking pictures as you dissemble things will help when you put it back together, I always take more than I need to and not just with engines (vintage electronics is my other hobby). David

Hi Zak, Both the single and double air filter have one housing that doesn't come apart. I usually use the little pick tool (shown in the linked post) or a small screwdriver to poke as much of the old filter foam out using all the holes in the housing. Compressed air can help with the remaining bits, I usually give it a wash with petrol/gas after. The new foam is then squeezed in through the opening at the back and again poked through the holes at the front to spread it out to fill the housing. Your carb will probably need to be stripped and cleaned following the procedure at the start of this thread, Old fuel/oil mix tends to gum up all the parts. Take your time, nothing should fly out, but have a tray underneath to catch any small parts if you want. A new primer diaphragm gasket is usually required for the engine to run at it's best, the old ones usually dry out & crack (Wallfish or Webhead on here have new diaphragms, as well as the check valve gasket if you need them). The screw with the spring of the left of the carb is the idle stop adjustment screw, the holes underneath are used on some tools for the throttle cable. The small quadrant control on the other side of the carb is used to adjust the governed speed. There are two types of this control, one can be set to any position and the other is moved by lifting the spring loaded washer & has five positions. Early production carbs don't have this control. David

Was doing a bit a web searching last night and found a tiny picture of another Tiny Tiger Model 400, a bit of further searching and I found out it was from a recently sold ePay listing (as the seller misspelt Ohlsson & Rice I never saw it). Here are some pictures of it that I have saved; I'm not sure if the handle on the generator is original as the screws on mine aren't long enough to add one & the original advert/articles from the 1960's don't show one. Also it's hard to tell if the generator has been repainted from the pictures. David

Found an article from Popular Mechanics magazine July 1965 edition that features this skateboard, it's on the blog-site wackyboards, whoever scanned it did much a better job than google managed!! http://wackyboards.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/halicki-motoboard.html Also on the same site is an original advert for the Tiger-Skate & Tiger-Bike engine kits sold by Tiger Industries, it's from the Quarterly Skateboarder Spring 1965 edition. David

I don't suppose you have a proper bottom cover for the blade eccentric/gearbox housing? It's currently got a very thin sheet of aluminium held on with cable ties at one end, as well as a lot of missing or incorrect screws. Also do you have any literature that shows this hedge trimmer at all? The engine dates to 1973. I guess there must be a lot of unidentified model 20A engines out there, as it's hard for people to find out it's an O&R or AEP engine once the original stickers have gone. David edit Apparently there are two different covers for the blade eccentric housing depending on the model, I've no idea what the difference is though. This infomation is from the parts list for the hedge trimmer with the 13A/B engine.

I can't believe what my brother brought back from the local car boot sale this morning, an Orline (Edit: actually a CARBRA) hedge trimmer with an O&R model 20A engine!! I don't think I've seen a model 20A engine on a hedge trimmer before and the it's first 20A I've seen in the UK (apart from on a chainsaw I have, but that was imported from the US). It has been repainted at some point in the past, but the back of the engine housing still has the some of the original white paint on it though. The engine is a model 20A type 333, seems they riveted the model & serial number plates to the 20A engines instead of using the cylinder plate that gets lost on the later 13A/B engines. David

Looks like a you've made a good start. I've had health problems for the last two years (not as serious though) so it has been taking me longer to do anything, including restoring my O&R's. David

I find UPS are too expensive (they also seem to damage most parcels I receive via them in the UK ), try USPS priority mail international as it should be less than half that price, see page 45 of the current price list for sending to Great Britain; https://pe.usps.com/cpim/ftp/manuals/DMM300/Notice123.pdf Here is a picture of the square recoil starter I was referring to, saved from an ePay listing of a Dyna-Mite a few years ago, note that it has the same label on the tank as yours (not shown in picture). Pictures of my Dyna-Mite can be found in this thread; David

Where did the model 410 come from? mine is a Dyna-Mite 300. Note the engine is a model 13B so it needs the square style starter housing, it's also likely that the engine model & serial number was on the missing aluminium cylinder side plate. Square starters do turn up for sale if you haven't got the correct one. David

I thought I would add a few pictures my O&R engine with the Octura Mount, unfortunately someone has made a bit of a mess of the pipes on the cylinder, they didn't even remove anything from the engine when they did it, you can see splashes of the solder? inside the starter housing! David

Here are the pictures of my Octura Mount (cast version), note that one mounting lug is missing; Here are a few extra pictures of the Octura Mount with a damaged O&R crankcase I had lying around, so you can see how they line up; If there is anything I've missed let me know. David

Hi Andrew The 3/4HP O&R has a cylinder of approx 20.6cc and the 1HP O&R is approx 22cc. I've taken lots of pictures of my Octura Mount and created a DaveCAD sketch/drawing of the mount with lots of measurements (note the sides of mine are not flat), I've also added a scan of the O&R engine dimensions with the correct dimensions for the spacing of the mounting screws (#8x32 UNC used on my Octura mount). O&R engine dimensions; Higher resolution pdf of the O&R engine dimensions; Ohlsson & Rice Engine Dimensions.pdf Sketch of Octura Mount; Higher resolution pdf of the Octura Mount sketch; Octura Models O&R Engine Mount.pdf David

Yes the pictures I added are of the extruded version, I thought it would be good to add them as there wasn't any pictures in this thread. I will take some pictures of my cast mount (removed from the engine) and get some measurements at the weekend if you still need them. I'm guessing you won't have any trouble making one. That is a very nice engine, how big is it compared with the O&R? David

A few more scanned, the leaflets for the Turbair Tot 2S, Imp 12 & Scamp 240. Turbair Leaflets, Tot 2S, Imp 12, Scamp 240.pdf David