factory

See the linked post for checking the carb inlet, there is a one-way ball valve inside the diaphragm chamber. It's best to disassemble and clean all the parts of the carb using either clean fuel or carb cleaner. The air vane fits inside the shaft of the butterfly valve (left side of carb), here is a picture I took earlier. The butterfly valve will be open normally, it closes when the blade part above the flywheel moves up with increasing air flow. There shouldn't be any need to clean the crankcase with the cylinder removed unless there are bits of the old air filter inside (these would be visible inside the carb & induction housing), I would follow the engine rebuild thread if you have this problem, which is caused by running the engine without removing the old disintegrating foam. There is a special tool that fits the slot in the top of the cylinder for unscrewing it, you will need to replace the exhaust collector gaskets if you need to remove the cylinder for de-carbonising, they tend to leak if you don't replace them. See the last post in the engine rebuild thread for a details of the cylinder removal tool. Taking pictures as you dissemble things will help when you put it back together, I always take more than I need to and not just with engines (vintage electronics is my other hobby). David

Hi Zak, Both the single and double air filter have one housing that doesn't come apart. I usually use the little pick tool (shown in the linked post) or a small screwdriver to poke as much of the old filter foam out using all the holes in the housing. Compressed air can help with the remaining bits, I usually give it a wash with petrol/gas after. The new foam is then squeezed in through the opening at the back and again poked through the holes at the front to spread it out to fill the housing. Your carb will probably need to be stripped and cleaned following the procedure at the start of this thread, Old fuel/oil mix tends to gum up all the parts. Take your time, nothing should fly out, but have a tray underneath to catch any small parts if you want. A new primer diaphragm gasket is usually required for the engine to run at it's best, the old ones usually dry out & crack (Wallfish or Webhead on here have new diaphragms, as well as the check valve gasket if you need them). The screw with the spring of the left of the carb is the idle stop adjustment screw, the holes underneath are used on some tools for the throttle cable. The small quadrant control on the other side of the carb is used to adjust the governed speed. There are two types of this control, one can be set to any position and the other is moved by lifting the spring loaded washer & has five positions. Early production carbs don't have this control. David

Was doing a bit a web searching last night and found a tiny picture of another Tiny Tiger Model 400, a bit of further searching and I found out it was from a recently sold ePay listing (as the seller misspelt Ohlsson & Rice I never saw it). Here are some pictures of it that I have saved; I'm not sure if the handle on the generator is original as the screws on mine aren't long enough to add one & the original advert/articles from the 1960's don't show one. Also it's hard to tell if the generator has been repainted from the pictures. David

Found an article from Popular Mechanics magazine July 1965 edition that features this skateboard, it's on the blog-site wackyboards, whoever scanned it did much a better job than google managed!! http://wackyboards.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/halicki-motoboard.html Also on the same site is an original advert for the Tiger-Skate & Tiger-Bike engine kits sold by Tiger Industries, it's from the Quarterly Skateboarder Spring 1965 edition. David

I don't suppose you have a proper bottom cover for the blade eccentric/gearbox housing? It's currently got a very thin sheet of aluminium held on with cable ties at one end, as well as a lot of missing or incorrect screws. Also do you have any literature that shows this hedge trimmer at all? The engine dates to 1973. I guess there must be a lot of unidentified model 20A engines out there, as it's hard for people to find out it's an O&R or AEP engine once the original stickers have gone. David edit Apparently there are two different covers for the blade eccentric housing depending on the model, I've no idea what the difference is though. This infomation is from the parts list for the hedge trimmer with the 13A/B engine.

I can't believe what my brother brought back from the local car boot sale this morning, an Orline (Edit: actually a CARBRA) hedge trimmer with an O&R model 20A engine!! I don't think I've seen a model 20A engine on a hedge trimmer before and the it's first 20A I've seen in the UK (apart from on a chainsaw I have, but that was imported from the US). It has been repainted at some point in the past, but the back of the engine housing still has the some of the original white paint on it though. The engine is a model 20A type 333, seems they riveted the model & serial number plates to the 20A engines instead of using the cylinder plate that gets lost on the later 13A/B engines. David

Looks like a you've made a good start. I've had health problems for the last two years (not as serious though) so it has been taking me longer to do anything, including restoring my O&R's. David

I thought I would add a few pictures my O&R engine with the Octura Mount, unfortunately someone has made a bit of a mess of the pipes on the cylinder, they didn't even remove anything from the engine when they did it, you can see splashes of the solder? inside the starter housing! David

Here are the pictures of my Octura Mount (cast version), note that one mounting lug is missing; Here are a few extra pictures of the Octura Mount with a damaged O&R crankcase I had lying around, so you can see how they line up; If there is anything I've missed let me know. David

Hi Andrew The 3/4HP O&R has a cylinder of approx 20.6cc and the 1HP O&R is approx 22cc. I've taken lots of pictures of my Octura Mount and created a DaveCAD sketch/drawing of the mount with lots of measurements (note the sides of mine are not flat), I've also added a scan of the O&R engine dimensions with the correct dimensions for the spacing of the mounting screws (#8x32 UNC used on my Octura mount). O&R engine dimensions; Higher resolution pdf of the O&R engine dimensions; Ohlsson & Rice Engine Dimensions.pdf Sketch of Octura Mount; Higher resolution pdf of the Octura Mount sketch; Octura Models O&R Engine Mount.pdf David

Yes the pictures I added are of the extruded version, I thought it would be good to add them as there wasn't any pictures in this thread. I will take some pictures of my cast mount (removed from the engine) and get some measurements at the weekend if you still need them. I'm guessing you won't have any trouble making one. That is a very nice engine, how big is it compared with the O&R? David

A few more scanned, the leaflets for the Turbair Tot 2S, Imp 12 & Scamp 240. Turbair Leaflets, Tot 2S, Imp 12, Scamp 240.pdf David

I can probably get some measurements and some pictures of the Octura mount I have, if no one has one for sale. They seems to be two versions of the Octura mount, mine is the standard cast alloy version, but I have also seen a version made from a section of extruded & machined aluminium. Here are a couple of pictures of one (not mine); David

It was the less common 350W version with the larger tank, one sold for a much more reasonable $250 in March, the more common model 300 Tiny Tiger are usually not too expensive. David

I've finally scanned the instruction manual for the Turbair Tot 2S and created a pdf of it. Turbair Tot 2S Instruction Manual.pdf There is more to follow when I've l got it scanned & edited. David

I've noticed that seller with the $500 Military Champ has been buying up & reselling O&R stuff, the Champ was bought two days earlier for $400, which is still $100 more than I've seen them sell for before. They also seem to be separating tanks & gearboxes from some engines and appear to have split up several Chicken Power kits. I've been wondering if O&R's have been featured on one of those shed/garage clearance type TV programmes (where they often make up daft estimated selling prices on stuff you know isn't worth that much) as prices have indeed been getting very high recently. Note that ebay is a bit dishonest with the prices that items with best offer sold for, they stopped showing the actual lower sold price a few years ago, but you can still find out the actual sold price by using the best offer history tool on goofbid, it only works with recently sold items though. I was also surprised that the 350W Tiny Tiger made nearly $600 as it failed to sell the previous time at an auction start price of $300 with $400 buy-it-now!!! David

They certainly attracted plenty of interest, I met a few other collectors that have some O&R's too and I was also asked how to repair the starter mechanism. It is getting hard to find O&R's over here that I haven't got, all the tools & the early engine in my display this year have been bought from the US. David

That would be great, thank you. David

Here is my O&R display at this years 1000 Engine Rally at Astle Park. David

That is a different version of the Aquabug outboard which was sold as the Perry Aquabug over here. I scanned the owners manual for the Perry Aquabug & added a pdf of it to this thread a few months ago; Note if you leave fuel in it the tank with the vent closed & the temperature changes too much it can split. The most common problem you are likely to find with the O&R engine is a perished carb diaphragm, both Webhead & Wallfish on here have new ones and the carb repair thread shows how to replace it. I did see one of the Mini Motor outboards for sale on ePay recently, it was a bit odd though as two sellers were trying to sell the same item at the same time and they both ended early too. The tank was split on that one as well. David

Have you got access to a scanner, or could I borrow the Turbair 21 Leaflet for scanning? I've been scanning stuff at 600dpi (saved as png files from the scanner), editing with IrfanView, adding them to a MS Word document and printing using Foxit Reader to create a pdf, it takes a while but produces a good quality pdf file for adding to the forum. Got this brochure scanned today, it's the earliest information I have for the O&R engines, I believe it dates from around 1960/1961 but the brochure is undated. Warning it may contain the odd marketing fib. Here is a pdf of the Ohlsson & Rice Ultra Compact Engine brochure; Ohlsson & Rice Ultra Compact Engine.pdf David

So that explains what the Turbair 21 is, if the seller had bothered to take a picture of the inside I would have probably bid too! Thanks for sharing it, I have quite a bit of Turbair stuff to scan & add to the forum when I have time. It appears to have an earlier O&R engine so that may date it to before the other Turbair crop sprayers, it also looks a bit like the mystery Italian crop sprayer in the unknown thread but it's not exactly the same. I'm slightly puzzled as to why the pictures I posted of it have shrunk though, they weren't very big to start with. David

That certainly looks like a good candidate for replacing the seal. David

That is the only spare I have (which came with my Aquabug outboards), I'm not sure if it is new though as the packet was already open. David

Here are some more pictures of the progress on restoring this generator. Engine stripped & parts cleaned. The governor vane & exhaust were missing & the original carb (not shown) was damaged, many thanks to Webhead for the replacements. A spares engine provided the missing air filter. Both the main crankshaft bearings on the flywheel side were found to have cracked plastic retaining rings for the bearing rollers, the spares engine provided a couple of replacements. I also found out why the spares engine had excessive play in the con-rod big end, someone had already taken the bearings. The bearings were changed to have steel retaining rings on later engines. Replacement bearings fitted and engine part reassembled. The other bearings were OK, they were cleaned, greased and refitted, new paper gaskets were made. New gaskets were made for the cylinder & exhaust and the exhaust collector ring was also replaced as it was found to be damaged. The perished rubber wires from the magneto coil were sleeved with heat-shrink sleeving, be careful when using a heat-gun to avoid damaging the insulation on these early coils. A new terminal was also fitted for the spark-plug lead. David