factory

Nearly right then.
 
Maybe it would go with your water-cooled O&R engine, just need the rest of the boat to go with it.
 
David

Front cover from the Operating Manual available on here (thanks David !) copied and enlarged, now on display with the units...
 
 
 

Here is how I now use the cylinder removal tool, I found it too easy to bend the small bar I used previously, a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) makes it much easier to undo or tighten the cylinder, I use offcuts of plywood to protect the crankcase being marked by the vice jaws.

 
David

I got a care package in the mail last week look at that is a coil cover wallfish was kind enough to send me one many thanks
I will post a pic when I get it on there.
The first one is the one I made. ( But I think you could figure that out on your own)

A large box of goodies arrived today from Wallfish in the USA, one and a half Tiny Tiger generators.
 
With the "spare" engine I had with the correct fittings and having a look in the O&R spares stock, I managed to attach generator to engine.
 
I was going to make up a base but as I don't have the correct tank I might leave it on the base its on for now...
 
The second unit needs an exhaust, anyone got a spare one please ?
 
Both units now on display with their buddies, lol
 
 
 

These were the only references I could find, and a price sheet.
 

The steering strut, drive shaft, prop & large fin, are listed as being for both the White Heat V & X in the May 1966 price list. But the V8 style exhaust is different for the V & X (60° for the V & 90° for the X).
 
David

This is the best running boat that I have, an Octura Wildcat with OPS engine. 

It’s been a slow project but finally on the home stretch. A big THANKS to Wallfish for getting me going with the bones of this really cool saw. With his advice I was able to harvest an engine and a few other parts from an old Orline Mustang. Original paint was too far gone for a refresh so it was time for a complete restoration. Webhead is fixing me up with a hook screw for the muffler since this saw has the little exhaust collector extension and it needs to be about 3” long.  I was able to find some cable conduit in the right diameter and made a new throttle cable for it.  Hopefully when Titch has some time maybe he can get a decal made up as the finishing touch.
I had forgotten about the bark rest piece until Wallfish reminded me and of course I’d already finished painting everything else so that piece is late to the game but drying now (it’s already 104 in AZ so dry time should be faster). Finding a good paint match was a bit more challenging than I thought it would be, must have gone through about four different reds and 6 yellows but I think I landed on a pretty good match all said and done. Yellow is really hard...

The Yard-Arm uses a Type 184 (radial mount) engine, the clutch drum in that engine should have a keyway in it for the drive shaft, the Yard-Arm parts list doesn't give the part number for the rear housing but it looks different as it has to fit the drive tube, that said unless one appears we don't know if there could be an older version that uses a different engine Type.

 
The Model L was one of the standard engine range, available for anyone to buy & fit to whatever tool or application they could think of, the Type 99 & Type 199 are the later direct drive engines with clutch.
 
I have since acquired a Type 106 engine with the clutch assembly fitted, no idea if it's original yet (engine is sn 052178).

 
David

This weekend I've finally had a bit of time to see if I could free up the seized piston, it was left to soak for a couple of days with some oil in the cylinder as I usually do, then I used the flywheel to turn it gently each way a little bit at a time until it was free.
 
Once the piston was free to move, I could safely remove the cylinder without any further damage.
It looks like this early engine had little or no use.
 

 

 
I think I may have a spare con-rod somewhere, just need to locate it.
 

 
Looks like it has the odd sized piston rings, although it shouldn't have according to a service bulletin (last used in 1961 with serial number 006072) as this is serial number 006403, I guess they still had a few left and used them all up.
 

 

 
David

Had this "gearbox" straight shaft around for a while. Pretty rare item since this is the only one I've seen so far.  I wanted to put this on one of the early engines for a display of a model L setup. Unfortunately it uses the old cork style clutch which need the taper shaft with the 2 key ways in it, and the engines I have don't have the key way slots, just tapered. Of course I completely went through the one engine first before noticing that. The engine had a completely round 1/2" shaft on it, without any flat. Don't remember ever seeing one of those before either but maybe they could be more common.
Had it apart to clean anyway so just thought some pics would be good.

 

 
Serial #0001826
 

 

 
 
 

When I was looking through the early service information (1961) a few days ago, I noticed something very similar for unscrewing the cylinder, for some reason the socket is described as being 3/32" thick, which is clearly wrong (tool #11 in list).

 

 
The later manual mentions a different tool, which is very easy to make, I find a using a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) is better than the flimsy bar (or ruining a screwdriver as mentioned in the manual) and the engine can be held in a vice using soft jaws (to prevent marking the crankcase).
David

Just need to do the recoil and I'll probably paint the top handle. Then a final clean and polish as it's difficult to keep clean while working on it.

 

With the information I posted with the letter from August 1960 for the first brochure, it mentioned that the three gearbox models were not yet available but would be in production soon, so that sort of dates your very early gearbox engine to sometime between the end of 1960 and early 1961, the next set of parts diagrams date from August 1961 (only two piston rings were used by then).
And looking at the gears fitted, this engine looks to be a Model H (1700 R.P.M. with clutch).
 
David

Small world, glad I was able to get this one. Sorry to hear it didn’t go so well when you tried for it a couple years ago. As far as I know it’s the oldest engine I have.

My wife and I watched our church service online yesterday morning at 9am I was then going to go putter with my O&R but things started to unfold really fast, we had an idea that there was some victims but not expecting what was to come . By 2:30 pm the shooter was shot and killed by RCMP and we started to here some online chatter of the extent of his 14hrs of terror. We went to bed last night knowing that by the morning we would know friends or family connected to this tragedy. I was correct, we did. Still possible not all victims found yet.
   Give your loved ones an extra hug today. 
😢😞

I should probably explain, this unusual early engine with gearbox was on ePay about 3 years ago, unfortunately I couldn't bid (or even ask for more info/pictures) as the seller had the usual international buyer blocking, it was also payment in cash & collection only. You helped me by contacting the seller, but sadly they never replied, that one picture is all I have from the listing.
It's good to know the engine survived & has found a home with CNew, as it never sold on ePay & I really thought it had been lost for good.
 
David

I could not help myself had to run to the shop. Not good at sitting around all day
here are some pics of the gaskets / oring / rubber bands .
Looks more like a rubber band then anything. hope this helps

All cleaned up and back together...
 

The brochure, outline drawings & parts diagram (Model A) for these early engines has now been scanned & added to the manuals thread.
That strange piston with three rings is mentioned in both the brochure & shown in the parts diagram/list.
 
David

That's a shame about the coil as they rarely fail, I've had the wire break inside the insulation before.
For reference, I checked the older style coil on my Chug-A-Saw, it measures approx 2.4kΩ, from memory the later style coils (made by Phelon) measure much higher at around 6kΩ.

 
Here are some pictures of the vertical gas/fuel tank used on the Chug-A-Saw, it is the same size as the oil tank.


 
I was going to suggest making a tank using coffee tins, but they are slightly bigger in diameter and won't fit the space available.

 
David

The cylinder/exhaust collector gaskets are only found as new-old-stock, I have been making my own using modern gasket sheet and a set of punches.The O-ring cylinder seal can be replaced with a modern one.

 
The end float on the crankshaft is fairly normal for these engines.
 
I've still got to locate a coil, the spares engine the starter came from is missing this and a few other bits.
Thanks for the picture showing the serial number, I can confirm the A-139-2 is the correct starter dog, this type was first used with the A-47-10 flywheel after serial number 015997 and for all later flywheels (except for the much later Series 13B & 20A engines).
 
Which points parts do you need? I'm assuming something broke as they normally just need cleaning & the gap re-setting.
There is one part no-one has mentioned that I cannot see on your engine (it's also missing from my Chug-A-Saw engine), that is the governor vane, do you need one of those?
 
David

I meant to add these last night but got distracted.
 
Here are parts which look to be for holding the trimmer head on, I'm missing the shaft that goes between the 201254 shaft part and the PTO shaft on the engine. Part 400642 is a cap that fits on the end of this second shaft which has internal spring clips.


 
And here are the parts that make up the air cleaner assembly, the first two parts 87-4 & 122-1 were previously used as exhaust parts, part 200946 is a modified version of the standard air cleaner part without the raised edge (see comparison with standard part) and the last part is a typical fixing rod for the air cleaner assembly (minus nuts & washers).



 
And the last part is the complete trigger cable assembly part 400611, I've no idea if there are different lengths of this for the various models of string trimmers they made, I put the loose parts on the end of the cable, they look to be fitted & soldered during assembly.


 
David
 
P.S. there are a few more small parts, a bronze bearing, various spacers & fixings that I haven't pictured yet, not even sure if they are for these.

I meant to add these last night but got distracted.
 
Here are parts which look to be for holding the trimmer head on, I'm missing the shaft that goes between the 201254 shaft part and the PTO shaft on the engine. Part 400642 is a cap that fits on the end of this second shaft which has internal spring clips.


 
And here are the parts that make up the air cleaner assembly, the first two parts 87-4 & 122-1 were previously used as exhaust parts, part 200946 is a modified version of the standard air cleaner part without the raised edge (see comparison with standard part) and the last part is a typical fixing rod for the air cleaner assembly (minus nuts & washers).



 
And the last part is the complete trigger cable assembly part 400611, I've no idea if there are different lengths of this for the various models of string trimmers they made, I put the loose parts on the end of the cable, they look to be fitted & soldered during assembly.


 
David
 
P.S. there are a few more small parts, a bronze bearing, various spacers & fixings that I haven't pictured yet, not even sure if they are for these.