HeadExam

Aye divnt a eny botha unerstandin tha Americon's atall, Nigel. But then I's nay suthuna.

Yes but we have to translate every thing you post 😂like you say hood we say bonnet ,you say tomaaaatooos we say tommartoos you say fenders we say wings, so do you realy speak English, or do you boys make it up 😂😂😂😂👙

Could be a drop shipper* with multiple accounts, that didn't have them in stock and couldn't get any quickly, so fobbed you off with shipment tracking delays.
*The worst kind of seller, often copying vast inventories of stuff from other website over & over, till ePay gets saturated with items all the same (insert thumbs down emoji we don't have here!).
 
There are also a lot of legitimate accounts getting hacked all the time, as soon as the listings get taken down they appear again under another hacked account, the scammers must make enough to keep doing this.
 
David

They are Tyres over here Alain speak English 😂😂😂

I wonder what would happen if you reported your findings to E-bay? Or maybe even the police fraud squad?

Awesome!!!

I got about half the bunch out, 5 new batteries, 6 gallons of engine oil. 8 new air and fuel filters.
 

I got about half the bunch out, 5 new batteries, 6 gallons of engine oil. 8 new air and fuel filters.
 

Yesterday I had a phone call from a couple of old friends from down south. Hadn't seen or heard from them for over 3yrs. Land Rover people like myself. They were up here on holiday and asked if it was convenient to visit. Also any camp sites near by. Of course I said yes and they could camp outside our home.
 A  couple of hours later they arrived and set up camp.
 
 1964 ex-military series 3 Land Rover. Engine upgrade to a 2.5 200Tdi. Really well thought out and kitted out, as they often visit the Italian and French Alps, driving up remote unmade mountain tracks and wild camping.
 

 
 

I got about half the bunch out, 5 new batteries, 6 gallons of engine oil. 8 new air and fuel filters.
 

I ended up buying two deep sockets, the first one was too large to fit.
 

 
You may also find it useful to have three longer screws/bolts to help with separating the engine from the frame.

 
Another deep reach socket is used for installing the seals.

 
Have a good read through both the 20A & Challenger Chainsaw manuals.
 
There is another service bulletin for these saws, they must have had complaints.

 
David

I've merged several other threads about shaft seals into this one.
 
David

Try putting the seals in the freezer for an hour before installation

Maybe those old seals started at .031, and now after many years in the engine, they end up measuring .036 ?  Gas, oil, heat, friction, time and you're measuring a worn seal. What does the shaft measure where the seal rides? Or maybe that's what you measured, IDK
Seems to me a tight fit of .005 under for the ID is better than a loose fit of .004 over

I still have 3 saws in the mail, will arrive soon, I'm near close to 50 saws in just over two years. All these are auto oiler direct drive models with manual override made between 1965 and 1985.
 

I still have 3 saws in the mail, will arrive soon, I'm near close to 50 saws in just over two years. All these are auto oiler direct drive models with manual override made between 1965 and 1985.
 

HeadExam,
One of the seals that is hard to find is the induction shaft seal. The dimensions I get from a micrometer are 0.36” ID x 0.5” OD x 0.094 cross section and it’s a pretty simply U-cup shape.
 
Clint
 
Edit: Several posts replying about the 13A/13B shaft seals moved to new thread here:
 
 
David,
   It is a little hard to start at first but once it fires I can generally get it to fire again after a couple pulls between the 1-2 seconds it dies. 
 
I poked a needle in the vent hole again this evening and was able to completely clear it. I then used a piece of fuel line and blew air into the fuel tank through the vent hole and the pressure exited through the hole so that appears to be working now.  I think I’m going to tear the whole thing down and check the seals and fuel lines. I’m a little hesitant to go too far since the seals and gaskets aren’t available. I also don’t have replacement reed valves or any of the rubber gaskets that go between the reed valves and the case.  This may end up on the shelf as a display piece only.

You may have an air leak in the crankshaft seals, common issue on these old saws and why many get tossed, no seals available for many of these old saws. Air leaks in the carb or crank seals are often the cause of this issue. You can use a leak tester like the mity mite 8500 to determine whether you have a leak in the carb, by blocking the intake off with a plate and also making a plate with a stem to test crankcase pressure. I have diagrams on these testing plates if you need them. I also have a large database for new replacement seals by size and cross referenced to new part numbers.

You’ve got that right, Factory, Wallfish and Webhead are incredibly knowledgeable and always very helpful!  Their expertise and willingness to assist us newbies along the way is priceless.
 
Clint

Ah I see, you would have been best to post that request in another more relevant thread, the carb rebuild sticky thread gives info on where to find reproduction carb diaphragms for the smaller 3/4HP to 1HP engines. I will add the info about part no #400102 there.
 
David

That is an O&R or AEP number, you will only find new-old-stock of those as AEP (Advanced Engine Products Inc) closed down in 1978.
 
Edit: Where did you find that number (#400102)? As it is a replacement carb diaphragm assembly for the smaller 1HP Compact & Series 13 engines, no use whatsoever for the Series 20A engine used in these chainsaws.
 
 
This may help with part numbers for the O&R repair kits if Webhead still has any (send him a private message).

 
David

Here are a couple of pics of my new acquisition, a 1993-1995 MTD according to https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/tractor-brands/mtd/mtd-lawn-tractors.html
The first two pics are when it got dragged home, the last is after cleaning and getting it running again. It had sat for 18-19 yrs in covered storage. All it took was drain the old gas, a set of battery cables and new battery. What surprised me was with the old gas that was in it, the carburetor needed NO work, fresh gas, bit of cranking and away it went like it had been started the day before.

My sister and BIL where up in Newman for some years. Some big machines up there.

Finally had a chance to rebuild the carburetor on my Mark II chainsaw. Got it to fire but it needs a lot more adjustment and fine tuning. Operators manual calls for 16:1 gas to oil ratio - has anyone run these with the 32:1 ratio or am I better off mixing a specific batch for this saw?  
 
Overall the saw looks to be in pretty decent shape. Now that I know it can run I might tear it down for a full cleaning and to make sure everything is correct. 

For many years, I've wanted to be able to roll sheet metal (in small sizes).
From shaping the nickel silver cleading on my traction engine to making fuel tanks and small exhaust mufflers.
So after saving up the Workshop pocket money, I've finally got a set of Mini Bending Rolls-

 
Quite heavy duty rollers for a 300mm wide unit and steel geared. Plenty big enough for all the jobs I have for it, and at 14kgs, just unbolts from the bench to be stored
out of the way. ....I'll get around to making some Swaging Rolls one day