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Wallfish

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Everything posted by Wallfish
 
 
  1. Yes, especially if the case seals are leaking since the diaphragm works by the pulse pressure of the air inside the case. Try adjusting the needle setting too. Some can be difficult to dial in and again, leaking seals also effect this setting. You can try to keep it running by continually pressing the primer and use the other hand to adjust the needle valve or prime adjust, prime adjust, prime adjust. Trust me, this can be a common frustration.
  2. Wallfish

    C-Saw

    That one is even earlier with the clear pull handle and the crazy handle on the gas cap.
  3. Wallfish

    C-Saw

    It sure is and this one was welded at some point. Looks like it may have had a small crack as the weld is only about 1/2 inch long. And the guy etched his name into it. I'll post some better pics
  4. Wallfish

    C-Saw

    Pretty much how it worked although buying them has slowed down quite a bit. Many have come and then gone to new homes as well so yeah, I don't know exactly how many there are any more. I have another one of these so this one can probably go to a new home too.
  5. They run at 6300 rpm so they they do rev up. No throttle control on a TT, they just run full blast but look at the side of the carb and you should see where the governor vein connects to the carb. Make sure that's connected or will rev up to a grenade
  6. Wallfish

    C-Saw

    Yeah. Bought it a while ago and it ended up in another forgotten box. It needs some TLC and all the parts are there except the PO stripped all the old brittle insulation off the coil wires. I got a old black one for a spare
  7. Wallfish

    C-Saw

    Not 100% sure if this saw was polished or came from the factory that way but it doesn't have the usual painted finish. It seems like it would be very difficult to polish the metal around the original decal without destroying it. Looks kind of cool nice and shiney. This is the old school type with a real early engine. Recoils screws from the back
  8. PM me your name and address. We have diaphragms. Were you a member on the old forum before we moved?
  9. Seems the primer bulb light cover is a success and fit perfectly. Thanks for sending those Terry @JUST O&R. Probably not the best solution ever but it works for this one as it's just a display piece anyway and now looks much better with a cover over the bare light bulb.
  10. Having it clean and working should work. The diaphragms don't pump fuel very hard but I have had a couple questionable like yours and they worked. But also had some that didn't.
  11. It's No problem. I can delete those posts. Do you have a question to ask about it? There's a little "Thumbs up" at the lower right of each post which you can use to react to any post but don't necessarily want to reply.
  12. Those check valves were just another "Band Aid" they put on to try and help. Those carbs are the weak link on these engines and they should have just scraped them long before and did a completely new design. The check valve's purpose is to keep fuel flowing in only one direction and it "checks" it going the other direction.
  13. If you can blow air through it you're good to go. It was explained in that quoted section above that you can drill it if all else fails
  14. Nice! It's cool when the display stand is part of the display. Looks great
  15. Drill it out. You can't really tell if you got it or not with the old diaphragm still stuck on there and the ball check valve under it not cleaned. The ball will most likely be stuck in the hole it sits in preventing any testing or airflow. If that diaphragm is stiff at all it will need to be replaced. Use a razor blade to remove it. Start where your thumb is in the pic above right near that hole. Once started it will easily come off and you can save it if it's good.
  16. Is that engine run on glow fuel or just gasoline?
  17. Not a video but you can follow through this thread. Mine was a lot rougher looking than yours are
  18. Brakes would just be to get closer to the original design. Flintstone style brakes would work just fine too. Yeah, from you. I need to build it as cheap as a Chinese factory would in order to maximize profits when I sell one to you. $250 -$490 for a little original seat is ridiculous although that's about the price you will be paying for the cheapie! Cha-Ching!
  19. Pretty sure this can be pulled off going by pics. I found some basic measurements online of total length and height. Might have to go without brakes or a brake band type brake. Did find some small shoe style drum brakes but not sure how deep into it money wise is worth it. Had to go with a banana style seat since those old solo polo flat type seats go for too big of money.
  20. Yeah, it helps hold the roller in place. Didn't even put a roller in that one, just wanted to check it for fit. Once I get a few nice ones I'll bend them all
  21. Threw one in real quick just to test it out. These are gonna work, and even better once the process is dialed in
 
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