Wallfish

It's the bearing in that seat of the rear cast piece which holds it on. Be sure to rotate the piece or tap around in different places to work it off the bearing. You can also remove that cover to take out the screw that goes through the shaft. The pieces may separate by the shaft sliding out the center of the bearing or the shaft can separate from the taper on the engine shaft. Problem with that is it's difficult to not damage that cover to get it out

Thanks Daren Could you please email a copy to uremailing@yahoo.com Anyone know what the differences are between the V and X I have a setup with the V8 exhaust and some stuff but I believe the prop setup might be different than pictured in the x drawing above. Guess I'll have to find that stuff and take a look

Are you interested in sharing? selling? I'd be interested in building one

As far as I know those type of coils are basically all the same. Either that or I've been very lucky just by using ignorance since I've used anything which would fit in the past and had success every time. Even using 4 stroke coils on 2 stroke engines and vise versa. I'm not sure which engines are plentiful over there but look for another make chainsaw coil or any other engine's coil which has relatively the same size coil. Remove it from that laminated piece if it's on one and install it on your laminated piece. As long as it fits under the flywheel and into the space it should be good. Location of the plug wire hole on the coil could be important depending on C51 saw space and how the plug wire is routed. If the square hole in the center is too large, shim it to fit tight. I have cut a layer or 2 off the laminate for fitting a smaller square hole on to one too. If you have other engines around which would have an easier to acquire coil, check it out and try it in the C51 to see if you can use one.

Hello Andrew, @Triumph66 Here's a set of fronts on my Wheel Horse loader tractor. Pretty sure they're Bolens weights but . Shipping could be expensive but let me know if you're interested. Just recently sent a 20 lb box to pmackello and it was $131.00. They aren't going anywhere if you prefer to keep looking on your side and use these as a plan B if you can't find any. Just offering them up because I know what it's like to try and hunt down the stuff you collect. I can always use different weights on my tractor.

They all do on those. I was gonna knock the roll pin out and swag the pipe a little to make it fit tight but never did it. Ha, see you are babying that thing already with the cloth. Are you wiping it down with a diaper yet? That's the only thing with doing nice restores, it's a PITA to baby them so they don't get scratched up. Then it really sucks when they do eventually get scratched.

What's that on the handle, a plastic ring or an Oring ? Nice touch.

NICE! Makes me want to paint mine yellow instead of all red. Or better yet, I want my parts back now!

Yard Arm At least hoping so and still looking for the rest of one. Or maybe I'll use it for a Popular Mechanics Micro mini bike build All of those different gearbox setups could be ordered as is so the application was up to the company or even the independent tinkerers. Don't remember seeing that before.

The tool end parts are typically much more difficult to find than engine parts are so repairing them is the best coarse of action in most instances. That being said, Tiny Tigers are the most popular tool out there so finding a donor tool to swap cases shouldn't be difficult.

Had this "gearbox" straight shaft around for a while. Pretty rare item since this is the only one I've seen so far. I wanted to put this on one of the early engines for a display of a model L setup. Unfortunately it uses the old cork style clutch which need the taper shaft with the 2 key ways in it, and the engines I have don't have the key way slots, just tapered. Of course I completely went through the one engine first before noticing that. The engine had a completely round 1/2" shaft on it, without any flat. Don't remember ever seeing one of those before either but maybe they could be more common. Had it apart to clean anyway so just thought some pics would be good. Serial #0001826

Oh, remember now that you reminded me. Just saw another one of those covers yesterday but not sure where or what it came from. Can't remember! LoL Let me take a look around to see if there's another forgotten box or three out there and you can have it if it doesn't go to anything. Just remind me to send it or I'll forget.

Are you missing a coil cover?

Replied

Chromer C-Saw all done for now. Decided to leave the tank handle shinie and no new paint. That can be done by the next person. Found a chrome muffler to go on there too. Had a bit of a struggle with assembly. These have plenty of tough to get to screws. First the crank bound up after engine assembly and had to pull it apart 3 or 4 times because of a roller slipping out each time. Finally got that good to go then assembled like the last pics. Put the recoil cover on and went to do the coil cover. No go as the replacement coil I used wouldn't allow the cover. Fix the wires on the original and assemble again. That little nut on the post is very difficult to get to and the fatter wire on the repaired coil didn't want to snake behind the flywheel. Cover fits perfect this time BUT, forgot to install the governor vein. Take it apart and do it all over again and those reverse cover slot screws are a pain with the engine on the saw base not to mention the worst one is the back of the coil cover. Also got zapped pretty good while pulling it over and checking for spark. Seems Tom Easley (the name engraved into it) is haunting the saw! Maybe he wants the red parts painted?

Just need to do the recoil and I'll probably paint the top handle. Then a final clean and polish as it's difficult to keep clean while working on it.

They probably are just rubber bands, hence "packing bands" and the pic in the drawing even looks like one for 5-2 . Put the engine together last night with a rubber band for 5-9 and used the old 5-2 as it wasn't too bad of condition.

Fuel tank? Or maybe find a can of something to use as one. Something like this? Or the top can be cut off with one of the rim cut openers and solder it on to a taller can of the same diameter?

Couldn't find any parts diagram from 1960. Is that in the manual section? The stuff I see starts at 1961

correct, there is no spacer but the top groove on the head looks as though there should be an oring there. I can stretch a normal cylinder oring to fit on there but it's too thick to allow it to slide into the the collector

sn 4639

do you have a diagram?

Wasn't really planning on going this deep on this one but wanted to check it out to make sure everything was good to go. Ended up being quite dirty and just kept going, the bearings were stiff too so... There were no seals on the exhaust manifold to the cylinder except the rubber one down at the case right above the threads for the head. Surely there must be something missing and it did have some oil collecting in that area from exhaust leak.

If you have an old rusted air cleaner cover to use, Insert a long bolt through the center hole and heat the cover with a torch. Press them out perfectly every time. It's not so critical to have them perfect as they should get squished inside the air cleaner anyway.

Horrible stuff as 10% is what's sold here. And, the corn lobbyists are continually pushing for more and E15 but all of that crap really needs to go by way of the Dodo altogether. In my state there are no pumps without ethanol except for small airports and some marinas for boat engines. Some states still have non ethanol available at the pumps.