Wallfish

You can do it dry or just dip it in water which works fine but some have said to use Coke. I don't like the sticky mess of the soda and it doesn't really seem to do anything more than water. Crumble it up as the sharp edges is what cleans it up but will not scratch the chrome. Use it on the exhaust manifold too. Makes them look new if they're not too bad. Coating with a very thin coat oil after is good too to stop the rust from returning.

How many O&Rs are you up to now? Guessing someone probably ran the old pump dry and smoked the impeller.

Can you just weld a washer on to it?

Nice save. Quite the difference on before and after. Don't believe I have a spare exhaust extension but will take a look. You can make one out of pipe and you can also make a longer exhaust rod to hold the muffler out of threaded rod.

Just guessing the pump was just one of little water pumps with 2 garden hose type connections like the Comet pumps and others used. Like a drill pump since that would have a shaft ready to go. Nice and simple and easy to loose.

Diaphragm is on the way. Be sure to let us know how it all works out.

The couple/few I have opened up had that orange crap on there as well. Don't remember seeing them like Clint's. Yeah, those wires you should totally strip and cover. Thought they would've been in better shape from your first description

The black label on the top of the blower is an Advanced Engine Products label Definitely newer than 1967. Curious where you got the 1967 year from? Clean points contacts, clean the copper spring where it meets that little post, clean the post, clean and good wire connections on the back of the post, Looks like that brass stop switch is upside down so make sure it isn't touching anything The condenser body needs to be grounded and it's loose in the pic. Once all that is checked take the plug out and lay it on top of the head. Give it a good pull and you should see a sharp snapping blueish spark in the >030 gap of the plug. Lots of carb info in this thread linked below. You will see the ball bearing type check valve but yours has the rubber stopper (newer) type. The diaphragms for both are the same and I'll send you one to the address you provided

Just be careful. I covered mine since there's no need to be pretty in there and it's completely hidden once assembled. My priority was to make sure nothing was damaged and stopped the operation of it. The shrink tube holds the old insulation once it's on there. It shouldn't be a problem to remove it all either and shrink tube it.

Yes, you can do that. Just delete his posts/threads and credit him for the contributions of them in the manual section. Or, leave the thread posts and reference in each one where you moved them. I believe either way would work.

Cut those caps off so you can work on the wires without being restrained by the connections to the cover. You'll find it much easier to work on without breaking off all of the old insulation plus you can now use shrink tubes to cover the wires. Once the shrink tube is done it can easily be handled without as much worry of damage to those areas of the wires. I used gray size wire nuts to connect and cover mine but soldering as David did is a much better connection.

I still never found that first set of parts I was going to send you. Wanted to put my engine back together but they gotta be around here somewhere. Was going to get you guys pics of those parts and lost them some how. My airplane engine is stripped down, has a copper cap soldered over the flywheel side of the shaft, and a small port soldered into the exhaust manifold. It's used to pressurize the fuel tank which would be completely sealed so you could fly in any position without loosing fuel to the carb.

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Think I'm going to have to post something since no one else is busy on here and it's been a bit dead. Was going to wait until it's done but... It's a good sign people are busy with work again

Ah Ha. on the hole. I do remember seeing a service bulletin about removing those double diaphragm carbs and replacing with a normal carb. Never have seen one of those doubles yet.

What is this crankcase port? And what would it be used for? Never saw that one before. The carb diaphragm will not pump fuel with a breached case and oil would probably spit out and or dirt and dust sucked in if it were just left open.

Just guessing that TT which he still has in pieces.

Had to go out and take a peak. I have the 90 deg tubes on the exhaust and the prop drive is the same as Clint posted. That bottom fin is around here somewhere too.

Nice. Those stands look vaguely familiar

Which wire? best to post a better pic. If it's not bad and you don't want to cut off the cap for covering with shrink tube, you can cover it with Plasti-Dip. That stuff doesn't glue itself to things so make sure you go all the way around the wire. It shrinks up tight when dry. Works good for fixing the old style coil wires too. So far, never had a problem with the old bearings. They don't really have to take much side load so...

It's the bearing in that seat of the rear cast piece which holds it on. Be sure to rotate the piece or tap around in different places to work it off the bearing. You can also remove that cover to take out the screw that goes through the shaft. The pieces may separate by the shaft sliding out the center of the bearing or the shaft can separate from the taper on the engine shaft. Problem with that is it's difficult to not damage that cover to get it out

Thanks Daren Could you please email a copy to uremailing@yahoo.com Anyone know what the differences are between the V and X I have a setup with the V8 exhaust and some stuff but I believe the prop setup might be different than pictured in the x drawing above. Guess I'll have to find that stuff and take a look

Are you interested in sharing? selling? I'd be interested in building one

As far as I know those type of coils are basically all the same. Either that or I've been very lucky just by using ignorance since I've used anything which would fit in the past and had success every time. Even using 4 stroke coils on 2 stroke engines and vise versa. I'm not sure which engines are plentiful over there but look for another make chainsaw coil or any other engine's coil which has relatively the same size coil. Remove it from that laminated piece if it's on one and install it on your laminated piece. As long as it fits under the flywheel and into the space it should be good. Location of the plug wire hole on the coil could be important depending on C51 saw space and how the plug wire is routed. If the square hole in the center is too large, shim it to fit tight. I have cut a layer or 2 off the laminate for fitting a smaller square hole on to one too. If you have other engines around which would have an easier to acquire coil, check it out and try it in the C51 to see if you can use one.

Hello Andrew, @Triumph66 Here's a set of fronts on my Wheel Horse loader tractor. Pretty sure they're Bolens weights but . Shipping could be expensive but let me know if you're interested. Just recently sent a 20 lb box to pmackello and it was $131.00. They aren't going anywhere if you prefer to keep looking on your side and use these as a plan B if you can't find any. Just offering them up because I know what it's like to try and hunt down the stuff you collect. I can always use different weights on my tractor.