Wallfish

Couldn't find any parts diagram from 1960. Is that in the manual section? The stuff I see starts at 1961

correct, there is no spacer but the top groove on the head looks as though there should be an oring there. I can stretch a normal cylinder oring to fit on there but it's too thick to allow it to slide into the the collector

sn 4639

do you have a diagram?

Wasn't really planning on going this deep on this one but wanted to check it out to make sure everything was good to go. Ended up being quite dirty and just kept going, the bearings were stiff too so... There were no seals on the exhaust manifold to the cylinder except the rubber one down at the case right above the threads for the head. Surely there must be something missing and it did have some oil collecting in that area from exhaust leak.

If you have an old rusted air cleaner cover to use, Insert a long bolt through the center hole and heat the cover with a torch. Press them out perfectly every time. It's not so critical to have them perfect as they should get squished inside the air cleaner anyway.

Horrible stuff as 10% is what's sold here. And, the corn lobbyists are continually pushing for more and E15 but all of that crap really needs to go by way of the Dodo altogether. In my state there are no pumps without ethanol except for small airports and some marinas for boat engines. Some states still have non ethanol available at the pumps.

Yes, especially if the case seals are leaking since the diaphragm works by the pulse pressure of the air inside the case. Try adjusting the needle setting too. Some can be difficult to dial in and again, leaking seals also effect this setting. You can try to keep it running by continually pressing the primer and use the other hand to adjust the needle valve or prime adjust, prime adjust, prime adjust. Trust me, this can be a common frustration.

That one is even earlier with the clear pull handle and the crazy handle on the gas cap.

It sure is and this one was welded at some point. Looks like it may have had a small crack as the weld is only about 1/2 inch long. And the guy etched his name into it. I'll post some better pics

Pretty much how it worked although buying them has slowed down quite a bit. Many have come and then gone to new homes as well so yeah, I don't know exactly how many there are any more. I have another one of these so this one can probably go to a new home too.

They run at 6300 rpm so they they do rev up. No throttle control on a TT, they just run full blast but look at the side of the carb and you should see where the governor vein connects to the carb. Make sure that's connected or will rev up to a grenade

Yeah. Bought it a while ago and it ended up in another forgotten box. It needs some TLC and all the parts are there except the PO stripped all the old brittle insulation off the coil wires. I got a old black one for a spare

Not 100% sure if this saw was polished or came from the factory that way but it doesn't have the usual painted finish. It seems like it would be very difficult to polish the metal around the original decal without destroying it. Looks kind of cool nice and shiney. This is the old school type with a real early engine. Recoils screws from the back

PM me your name and address. We have diaphragms. Were you a member on the old forum before we moved?

Seems the primer bulb light cover is a success and fit perfectly. Thanks for sending those Terry @JUST O&R. Probably not the best solution ever but it works for this one as it's just a display piece anyway and now looks much better with a cover over the bare light bulb.

No, it will seal.

Having it clean and working should work. The diaphragms don't pump fuel very hard but I have had a couple questionable like yours and they worked. But also had some that didn't.

It's No problem. I can delete those posts. Do you have a question to ask about it? There's a little "Thumbs up" at the lower right of each post which you can use to react to any post but don't necessarily want to reply.

Those check valves were just another "Band Aid" they put on to try and help. Those carbs are the weak link on these engines and they should have just scraped them long before and did a completely new design. The check valve's purpose is to keep fuel flowing in only one direction and it "checks" it going the other direction.

If you can blow air through it you're good to go. It was explained in that quoted section above that you can drill it if all else fails

Nice! It's cool when the display stand is part of the display. Looks great

No, should I?

Drill it out. You can't really tell if you got it or not with the old diaphragm still stuck on there and the ball check valve under it not cleaned. The ball will most likely be stuck in the hole it sits in preventing any testing or airflow. If that diaphragm is stiff at all it will need to be replaced. Use a razor blade to remove it. Start where your thumb is in the pic above right near that hole. Once started it will easily come off and you can save it if it's good.