Wallfish

They run at 6300 rpm so they they do rev up. No throttle control on a TT, they just run full blast but look at the side of the carb and you should see where the governor vein connects to the carb. Make sure that's connected or will rev up to a grenade

Yeah. Bought it a while ago and it ended up in another forgotten box. It needs some TLC and all the parts are there except the PO stripped all the old brittle insulation off the coil wires. I got a old black one for a spare

Not 100% sure if this saw was polished or came from the factory that way but it doesn't have the usual painted finish. It seems like it would be very difficult to polish the metal around the original decal without destroying it. Looks kind of cool nice and shiney. This is the old school type with a real early engine. Recoils screws from the back

PM me your name and address. We have diaphragms. Were you a member on the old forum before we moved?

Seems the primer bulb light cover is a success and fit perfectly. Thanks for sending those Terry @JUST O&R. Probably not the best solution ever but it works for this one as it's just a display piece anyway and now looks much better with a cover over the bare light bulb.

No, it will seal.

Having it clean and working should work. The diaphragms don't pump fuel very hard but I have had a couple questionable like yours and they worked. But also had some that didn't.

It's No problem. I can delete those posts. Do you have a question to ask about it? There's a little "Thumbs up" at the lower right of each post which you can use to react to any post but don't necessarily want to reply.

Those check valves were just another "Band Aid" they put on to try and help. Those carbs are the weak link on these engines and they should have just scraped them long before and did a completely new design. The check valve's purpose is to keep fuel flowing in only one direction and it "checks" it going the other direction.

If you can blow air through it you're good to go. It was explained in that quoted section above that you can drill it if all else fails

Nice! It's cool when the display stand is part of the display. Looks great

No, should I?

Drill it out. You can't really tell if you got it or not with the old diaphragm still stuck on there and the ball check valve under it not cleaned. The ball will most likely be stuck in the hole it sits in preventing any testing or airflow. If that diaphragm is stiff at all it will need to be replaced. Use a razor blade to remove it. Start where your thumb is in the pic above right near that hole. Once started it will easily come off and you can save it if it's good.

It's on that new boat engine

Is that engine run on glow fuel or just gasoline?

Not a video but you can follow through this thread. Mine was a lot rougher looking than yours are

Brakes would just be to get closer to the original design. Flintstone style brakes would work just fine too. Yeah, from you. I need to build it as cheap as a Chinese factory would in order to maximize profits when I sell one to you. $250 -$490 for a little original seat is ridiculous although that's about the price you will be paying for the cheapie! Cha-Ching!

Pretty sure this can be pulled off going by pics. I found some basic measurements online of total length and height. Might have to go without brakes or a brake band type brake. Did find some small shoe style drum brakes but not sure how deep into it money wise is worth it. Had to go with a banana style seat since those old solo polo flat type seats go for too big of money.

Yeah, it helps hold the roller in place. Didn't even put a roller in that one, just wanted to check it for fit. Once I get a few nice ones I'll bend them all

Threw one in real quick just to test it out. These are gonna work, and even better once the process is dialed in

Was thinking maybe one of those paper shears might work best too. The guillotine style

First trial run on carb springs. I'll get the system down better but made some progress grinding the center. Then just cut them with snips but I'll work on grinding the two legs for a more uniform and precise spring. Will have to make some sort of jig. The .003 material seems good and there's plenty of it for making mistakes.

Pretty sure that cable from Bergen would work but they have a minimum order of $150.00. Not sure I could ever use that much unless I go into production but will need quite a bit just to do a repop Micro mini bike.

@Webhead How the hec does the throttle work on these? Just can't seem to find a good pic and don't see a throttle control. I'm assuming it's an internal cable twist throttle with the cable inside the handle bar part way but just not 100%sure.