Wallfish

Let me see what the decals from Sugarcreek look like first if they ever get here. The Homelite buttons are a perfect fit. It snapped on to the oiler shaft like it belonged on there without any modifications. Just needed to tap it with a rubber mallet. I like the size too

Thanks for sharing that!

Almost done, just waiting on a chain cover decal from Sugarcreek and get the oiler knob on. This little chain cover reminded me why painting is low on the fun list. Sanded and cleaned for the 1st coat then the 2nd coat flaked in some spots because of not waiting for the alcohol to completely evaporate. Start over and strip it for the new paint. Everything went well until a run right on the face of it during the second coat. Strip and clean it again. Then during the 2nd coat of the 3rd go, I dropped it on the floor. Started over again and 4th time's a charm. Being a gluten for punishment, the next project needs a full paint job with quite a few pieces, so hopefully there's no need for a BFH !!!!! Doing this stuff at night after work didn't really leave much time for patience but it seems time shouldn't be an issue soon. In order to do our part concerning the current circumstances we will be closing the doors after this week and holding on tight until this virus spreading can be controlled. Technically we can still work and operate because of some loopholes in the directive but being part of the problem is the problem. Some sacrifice may be part of a solution, maybe not. But doing nothing to help is definitely not part of any solution IMO. I'll figure it out after a couple to a few weeks but hopefully the O&R collection doesn't need to go up for sale at bargain prices to stay a float. You bargain hunter O&R vultures aren't eating here! LoL

https://www.ebay.com/itm/200-6-32-x-3-4-Allen-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-Bolt-Black-Oxide-f-FREE-SHIP/202811300993?hash=item2f387edc81:g:stsAAOSwItddugwj These don't look bad on the engines, I have a couple with them

might be easier to just paint the heads flat black. Can only find them in large bulk. I'll take them, shoot me a PM on what you want for them

Fillister Let me look around $197.10 / Carton of 10,000 pcs looks like I gotta add about 1930 tools and or engines to the collection to use'm all.

My memory is leaving as fast as my hair is. What's the head type called on the original machine screws? Ran out of #6 x 3/4 screws for the recoils so looking to try and order some black oxide screws

Do you need a chain Paul? I can look for a spare and put it in the box

Captain messaged me yesterday instead of Joe, probably because I quoted his post. I sent him a message to contact Joe but Joe told me he had a moment of weakness. I did send him an offer before reading all the posts here but he hasn't returned a response. I'll send him your way Clint if he does respond or possibly he'll see this first. Don't want to step on anyone's toes.

You should receive an email a couple to a few weeks prior to your membership running out. It will be an invoice to pay the supporter membership. It goes by the date you became a supporter, not the beginning of each year.

search chainsaw switch on epay. They are a common chainsaw switch. Single pole to ground.

You'll need a third leg by the time we get done with ya

Well, at least something will be glowing.

Obviously we need an engine with a much stronger spark to try that continuity test again! Don't make me ask you to use your welder

Still work for me too. As long as they haven't shut me down it's has to be a go. Hopefully we can finish this week at minimum but get the feeling it's getting close as many other states are locking down. I just peck away at it on weekends and nights but running out of the small stuff to do like chainsaws. Got started on the paint for a winch. Soon the bigger stuff like hedge trimmers and outboards will be the only thing left to do. Really been enjoying to get back at them again after a long hiatus of not touching them. It's here on the forum that motivates me by seeing what others are doing. Not so much just to keep up with the Jones" but more to share the experiences of restoring and repairing them. It's more fun to get involved. Plus bust'n on Terry is fun too! Did ya see that funny crap he did with the wires for a glow plug? I was LMAO.

A regular muffler is fine too. That's what was on there and it was clean so just reused it. If it was crappy then maybe change it. Don't sweat the little details on a chainsaw. Save that 100% original stuff for the good ones!

IMO the tilted decal looks funny if there's a bird decal because that is always oriented with the recoil. Without the bird decal, the recoil decal looks better tilted to vertical. Not 100 % sure if mine was original or not but those recoil covers have a factory hole for the switch so I believe it's original because the hole didn't appear to be just drilled out, the paint was original and the decal was oriented with the bird decal. Either way is fine so doing it to your preference is the best way to do it. Maybe the un-branded saw above is the Bunyan which tilted the decal and the Chip A Saw had it oriented with the recoil as I see Terry has his the same

Captain What's this? You collect'n again?

If I had a bike to put it on, you're darn toot'n I'd take it for a ride. My grandson is 14 now and riding a bike is just like work to him so he'll avoid it like the plague. His older sister drives now so all the bicycles are gone. BUT maybe I could get the kid's across the street. If he'll ride it with the motor I'd leave it on there for him. They could have all kinds of engine stuff to ride around because of all the small engine stuff I do but kids today would rather play video games.

It's already boxed up and on the shelf. If I can ever find one of those mini bikes or a skateboard it will be me in the video riding! Been think'n about building a mini bike replica of the Micro using EMT conduit. Forgot to add the twist throttle in the pic.

You always need to test the engine BEFORE converting to a glow plug. 1)Connect the red wire to the engine's spark plug wire 2)Since this will probably be used for a boat you'll need just a little water so use the toilet water and run a wire from the yellow into the toilet water 3) It will need ammonia to complete the test circuit so pee in the toilet but do it in conjunction with #4 4) to test continuity give the pull cord on the engine a viscous yank 5)If no continuity jump the red to the yellow and try again Please let us know the results of testing so we can figure out the rest.

This old school type Chicken Power has been in wind chime mode for a very long time. It was painted probably 5 or 6 years ago and just hanging around on wires. The engine is a very low hour and the recoil was already done, just needed a decal. It took longer to wipe off all of the dust LoL. Still needs some recoil screws but that's about it. Poor Terry always gets it from me about how long it takes so here ya go Terry, just teed it up for ya. Here's another too, been sanding the parts for that Bee Jay winch and that's the engine in the engine rebuild pics thread from 2015

NICE JOB on the saw! Fishnuts2 discovered the process for 90% of O&R tools. They all have fastners which are difficult to get to and how parts need to be removed to get to others. Make tools to work to get to them. Trust me, that chainsaw is easier compared to some others but also more difficult than some. But once you go through a couple it gets easier. Just wait until you get to that recoil on the Sears for the first one. Please don't smash it with a BFH. LoL Making your own gaskets and seals is a big part of this hobby. @Webhead Joe told me when I first started, "you have to be resourceful if you get into this hobby and collect them". Absolutely true

Placed an order last night for the Homelite choke knobs. It wasn't much more for 4 NOS knobs than it was for one so there's some extra if anyone happens to need one. They'll get added in with the extra NOS parts bin for the Homelite collection. Might go pull one off of the tools to see how it looks.

Another nice find! If you're up for a challenge concerning the rubber check valve on the carb arm? Float valves for some carbs use a small rubber tip to seal the valve and that rubber tip could be used to make one. It's something I never got around to attempting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Carb-Repair-Overhaul-Rebuild-Kit-For-Kohler-K301-K321-K482-K532-K331/282203275943?hash=item41b4a042a7:g:l~oAAOSwzaJX8Wf9