Wallfish

I threw in one of the NOS springs when sending those neon's parts. Probably should have stole some of the NOS orange carb gaskets for the body connection to the induction piece as I just had a couple of damaged ones.

NOS recoil springs come packed with these metal retainers. It makes the spring very easy to install into the housing. I reuse them for used springs when servicing the recoils. Clean and coil up the used spring small enough to load into the retainer so you won't need to pinch and hold the spring tension while installing it. Drop it into place inside the housing and hold the spring down with your thumb or fingers while removing the retainer. Once removed, lightly release pressure so the spring uncoils slowly until it stops. It seems best to lube the spring after it's installed which allows the friction to control the uncoiling speed. They work great for storing any spare springs if you have extras or spares. Plus leaves them ready to go for replacing damaged springs and protects them from accidental bending You can make your own retainers out of 2 inch pipe. Left one below is cut pipe, the other is a factory retainer. Just use a file to smooth the edges so it's easy to remove from the spring. The retainer's thickness is less than the width of the spring but making a wider piece allows for easier removal. Try it and you won't go back to the pinch and hold panic of an uncoiling spring again. No more because of accidental release of the coil tension. Please send your $50 donation for saving you time and aggravation during your recoil services.

Reminds me of this type of edger blade which would also make a cool stand

For the decal? Price just went up knowing it's a Petro power product. It drove me nuts trying to figure out the little stop lever pieces and how it worked with the circle spring. It's been 5 years since removing it so it was a puzzle. The problem was the way the cable spools on to the drum. Typically it would pull and feed the cable from the bottom of the drum as that's closer to the mounting point which would keep the unit from tipping forward during pulling. Messed with that thing on and off forever but it always worked backwards. Finally realized the cable direction onto the drum has to be from the top, which is verified in that ad pic. Mounted vertical like that would be the best way pulling with the cable feeding from the top of the drum. Seems strange it's designed to be mounted vertical but the tank is not rotated as David mentioned

Another version of a Mustang saw but the recoil side appears there's something else going there

Maybe you can make your own outta silicone now? Me either but found the video interesting and that hydrogen peroxide can be used as a catalyst for silicone

I have what's left of the decal from removing it. The left side left of the B is now missing but I think there's enough there to try and work something out

So are oil changing services but prefer to do it myself.

Someone shared this on the Redsquare forum and thought you guys might find it interesting

Don't think I've ever seen that one before. The pistol grip type handle is cool

Got this one painted in record time. 5 years 2 months plus. Woo Hoo! Started on this project way back in Jan of 2015 and the engine is the one from the rebuild pics thread. The coil was recently changed back to an old school version since that's what was originally on the engine. Finally it's close enough to see the light at the end of the tunnel after pecking away at it for an hour or 2 at a time over the last couple weeks. This is too cool and rare of a piece to be left sitting in pieces out in a forgotten box. Not sure what I was think'n. Still need to paint the tank , touch up quite a few spots damaged on the yellow, figure out a decal and it appears there should be a chain guard on the front because of holes in the one on it, so maybe that too. Still not sure about winding on the cable or not. It's kind of heavy without it and there's no handle to carry it. All that cable is pretty heavy just on it's own. Seems it was designed to just be mounted and not so much portable. That Rustoleum paint seems like it never hardens so it's a PITA not scrape up during assembly. Started with this and now up to that.

I guess those 1/2" shafts are the same. It just seemed like it was hitting the gearbox box it works. The taper is just longer on the gearbox shaft which I'm guessing is just more surface area contact.

It's just like an everyday regular 1/2" engine shaft adapter but the taper inside is different. If it fits perfect on an engine then it's not the right one. I'll get some pics

That's like the same gearbox on the snow blower. It has that extra little shaft and gear on the front. If it has a 1/2 inch shaft on there I can use one. Never noticed the taper on those gearbox shafts are different than the engine taper is and lost the one for my current winch project. The gearbox shaft has a longer taper

Not for me but I don't even know what it is. Never paid much attention to the different models of engines. BUT, it's sure worth more if ya need one! I'm gett'n the feeling you're looking for something to cut up for that cut-away engine

Well get skateboarding across the shop floor then and we'll all watch! What's the password to log in to your camera?

Sometimes it's best to walk away for a bit and get back to it later if you're not motivated to do it. Maybe not for 5 or 6 years but typically the job gets done better when you want to do it vs just going through the motions to get it done. Is time better spent working on something you enjoy doing instead of having a finish project you didn't like doing? It may be different if you enjoy the finished product more than doing the work to get it there.

Good one! The casting on my handle wasn't to good so not sure what you'll find under that paint. Sand everything well and use etching primer and the paint will stick if you need to go that route. The paint came off of the engine parts fairly easy because it never adhered but like JUSTO&R said, it seems to like the green paint since most of it's still stuck on there. See you're a gluten for punishment too. Didn't that outboard teach you anything?

Oh man, you guys are mean so now I'm gonna go cry. Truth is it's a PITA to baby new paint and I didn't have the patience to watch paint dry so it was still a little soft during assembly. Plus the castings on these aren't the cleanest job with some pitting and bad spots. Mostly on the handle too.

Let me see what the decals from Sugarcreek look like first if they ever get here. The Homelite buttons are a perfect fit. It snapped on to the oiler shaft like it belonged on there without any modifications. Just needed to tap it with a rubber mallet. I like the size too

Thanks for sharing that!

Almost done, just waiting on a chain cover decal from Sugarcreek and get the oiler knob on. This little chain cover reminded me why painting is low on the fun list. Sanded and cleaned for the 1st coat then the 2nd coat flaked in some spots because of not waiting for the alcohol to completely evaporate. Start over and strip it for the new paint. Everything went well until a run right on the face of it during the second coat. Strip and clean it again. Then during the 2nd coat of the 3rd go, I dropped it on the floor. Started over again and 4th time's a charm. Being a gluten for punishment, the next project needs a full paint job with quite a few pieces, so hopefully there's no need for a BFH !!!!! Doing this stuff at night after work didn't really leave much time for patience but it seems time shouldn't be an issue soon. In order to do our part concerning the current circumstances we will be closing the doors after this week and holding on tight until this virus spreading can be controlled. Technically we can still work and operate because of some loopholes in the directive but being part of the problem is the problem. Some sacrifice may be part of a solution, maybe not. But doing nothing to help is definitely not part of any solution IMO. I'll figure it out after a couple to a few weeks but hopefully the O&R collection doesn't need to go up for sale at bargain prices to stay a float. You bargain hunter O&R vultures aren't eating here! LoL

https://www.ebay.com/itm/200-6-32-x-3-4-Allen-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-Bolt-Black-Oxide-f-FREE-SHIP/202811300993?hash=item2f387edc81:g:stsAAOSwItddugwj These don't look bad on the engines, I have a couple with them

might be easier to just paint the heads flat black. Can only find them in large bulk. I'll take them, shoot me a PM on what you want for them