Wallfish

Found serial numbers on 2 of mine. 0001276 and 0001826 That long muffler stuff was another option. The bolt and the sections

Just noticed they cut off a section of the back plate. Not sure what the purpose of that was. What tool this is?

First check the gearbox as that may be why it won't move because of hardened grease. If it's the engine, Pour or spray some oil in the spark plug hole, let it sit in there for a day or two and use your hand to turn the flywheel. Go back and forth in very short turns and it should free up if locked because of sitting. Bet that thing has been sitting in a box since the early 60s like someone started a project but never finished. They probably had a hard time starting it without a primer and the tank below the carb. The condensers on the early engines were shorter and fatter so it's probably original. That throttle cable was a factory option and cost a whopping $1. You can see a very short one was used on the Bejay winch which has that same knob. No need to find any of that conduit now since you now have a 3ft supply.

Fixed'm for ya Sling Blade. I need to find a cover for the light bulb. Since you're the lawn mower man, would you happen to have a clear fuel primer bulb that size?

Electrical stuff cleaned an repaired. It was a pain in the a@@ and still need to splice those two from the gen back together but it's cleaner and definitely better now.

That's old school. You can tell by the clear wood handle and those coils are black, not green. The plug cap doesn't belong since that's how you stop the engine by grounding out the spark plug. You'll get a good jolt removing that cap while it's running. Think I have 3 of those so maybe time to do some comparison. Nice score with the old gearbox, one of mine has the the straight shaft with a clutch. Look up the model with the gearbox in the manual section. David posted all kinds of good stuff in there

Something like that is well within my wheel House. I'm think'n 3/4 EMT pipe. The difficult part is finding something with the brakes for the back wheel and may already have an idea for that. Haven't looked into the fold down foot pegs but I could make those if necessary. Might have to use an old school banana seat which wouldn't look as good but... No hurry at all as there's always plenty of stuff on my plate. Just so you don't think you're wasting your time. Built these and the little Wheel Horse 2 seater cart in my avatar pic.. The Wheel Horse bike is 90% all tractor parts and looks even better now with an old school starter generator K181 engine on it instead of that modern M8. Made an article in a small tractor magazine. The back hoe attachment was completely scratch built using some plans off the innerweb. All the way down to the bucket teeth. Used it to bury all the utilities underground. Loader is a factory unit This little wooden model of a RJ-58 was made completely out of toothpicks and also made a magazine. Wheels turn, steering works, levers move, brake pedal works the brake band. The toothpick gives the scale of it.

So the electrical parts can be removed from the plastic. The only part held by melted plastic is the battery contact spring. I drilled the melted plastic to get it out and will just use epoxy to hold it back in. There are 2 screws holding the other parts / wires so you do not necessarily need to cut the wires to separate the electrical parts from the generator windings. These electrical parts and contact points in this one need to be cleaned serviced since they're corroded and the little rivet holding a wire to the light bulb socket gave way. Much easier to repair outside of the plastic. The wire going to the points was cut off because the insulation was cracked and missing sections so the whole wire will be replaced now.

Yeah, these aren't the funnest thing to clean and service but unfortunately it was pretty dirty in there as you can see in the pics. The common problem of batteries being left in there for a long time leaked some acid which stained and cracked the plastic. Messing up the wires or the coils is really the main concern. If the generator doesn't work after, it just becomes a pretty boat anchor. The plastic is stained too deep into it in too many areas that sanding them all out probably isn't going to work. I'm just going to repair the cracks with epoxy and clean it up the best I can. It won't look brand new but certainly should end up better than before. Leaving the "character" on there is necessary sometimes.

Well, At least there was no problem removing the drum part of the clutch from the gen head A very interesting set up in there. The magnet section is shaped like a yoyo and the windings are in 2 sections which ride in between. There's what I believe is a vacuum tube inside too? Needed to separate the generator from the plastic but the electrical parts inside are held by factory melted plastic. It was easier to cut the wires an I'll solder them back.

Why else would I play with these things Don't forget, you did it before too! Do you still have one of those Micro mini bikes? If so was wondering if you might get some dimensions for building a repop Hacked that up all by myself! Nice Huh? Problem was it's deeper inside that hole than the radius of the grinding wheel. Got the screw out but never could get that broken piece out of the hex. Then had to use another bolt from a 1/2 shaft extension to shock that piece off the taper. It was on there hard and even bent the bolt beating on it with a steel hammer after the rubber mallet turned ineffective.

Got it Thought I could still pick it out by grinding a flat on the edge but it didn't come out. Ground a flat screwdriver head into an arch to match the grind and shocked it out with the impact drill. And it's always nice to have an engine ready to go

Never really noticed that super long cooling baffle before on any of these. You can use an app called CamScanner on your smart phone, which is free and pretty simple to use, for posting files of any documents. I know, old men and technology don't mix but this is real easy to use if you want to try it and you don't use a flipper. These documents would be nice to add to the files section.

Seems they tried to bait someone with false bidding. Do the questions to the seller go into the ad automatically or does the seller do it? Auto would be nice to shed light on this type of crap so the next buyer is aware of the selling history. It seems like 50% of the people try to scam the other 50%. In reality it's more like 10% are the scourge but they're 90% of the problem

Ha, see you found my little poke at ya in there. This plastic is hard and apparently more brittle now so I'm thinking a 2 part clear epoxy should do it for repairs. For the bigger gaps, I'll sand some spots of the plastic and use that dust powder to color the surface of the epoxy on the outside so it blends in better. Tried cleaning up some of the plastic surfaces last night but a lot of it seems stained so their deep into the plastic. May have to try and sand the whole thing in steps and end with 1500 grit and or compound.

check this out

I'm gonna pick at it and try to get it out but already get'n frustrated. Might try grinding in a slot with a dremel tool and if that doesn't work, weld a nut to the bolt and use that to get it loose

And here's your first "don't do this" Don't use a ball head hex tool in that bolt and snap the tip off in there! DAM!

Unfortunately there will be some cracked and broken plastic to repair around the generator head. Not a big deal since I'll just send it down to Terry to fix so I can sit here and sip on cocktails until he gets it done in a couple of days. The tank looks good except for the loose fuel pick up inside. Not sure how the hec I'm gonna tackle that yet.

Those hex bolts can be accessed and removed without any disassembly of the generator head.That would certainly be easier if you don't have to clean and service the generator but highly unlikely it's going to be clean in there if it looks anything like dirt around this one. Before separating the gen head from the engine, pull out the wire going from the battery holder to the points. Self explanatory how to separate the gen head from the engine. Here's something pretty unique. It runs on a clutch and it seems like a proprietary clutch at that. Certainly makes for ease of assembly and easier to start the engine.

I was kinda perplexed on how this thing was totally attached to the tank base. Surely it couldn't just be those 3 hex head bolts at the generator head into plastic. Finally just removed them to see where else it would hold but sure enough, it was only those 3 bolts.

Will do. Probably a good idea for this one and document some findings for the next guy Serial nunmber Someone has been in here before. Yellow wire not connected So I'll need guidance how to rewire it correctly. I don't know what you call that little "pod" which needs to be connected but I'm assuming it gets connected along with that yellow ground NEG wire The wires in there are very short but enough to work on. Remove the 3 Knob screws holding the 6 12 and neg wires. Also remove the screws for the little switch. BE VERY CAREFUL with the wires to get enough room to get to that screw on the back of the AC power outlet. Removing that screw will allow the guts to come out the back so the cover can be completely removed

Next up for a refresh is this Creme Lure Power Pack Model C. Never had one of these apart before so the generator end should be interesting. At least the plastic tank is in very good shape so it's well worth the effort to make this one nice again. Just waiting on some small stuff for the other projects to get 100% completed

The manual for the Wards Model 10 was just added to the manual section if you want one. It isn't the best copy since it was folded up and quite dirty.

send me the info BTW model J gearbox is also used on the Bejay winch