Wallfish

nice. 240v would be the European version. Whats your location? open the carb caps and check the diaphragms. Not sure but maybe that piece is a spacer where it mounts to the base? electrical receptical here https://www.ebay.com/itm/MPJ-32040PL-AC-POWER-SNAP-IN-OUTLET-RECEPTACLE-JACK-NEMA-1-15R-2-WIRE-15A-125V/401227594123?hash=item5d6b07398b:g:H30AAOSwImRYLkHk Make sure you check the air cleaners. If there's any foam inside, poke at it to see if it crumbles. If it does you'll need to remove it all or it will get sucked into the engine I have a few generators but those are nice. If your plan is to sell, let me know what your asking

Rob Typically to get them running a new carb diaphragm is required if it ever had fuel in it before. You can easily open the diaphragm cap on the carb and check it. If it's stiff at all it will need to be changed to get it to pump fuel and that also indicates that the carb will need to be cleaned because of sticky old 2 stroke oil in there. Maybe after you get it to run you won't want to sell. These little airplane type engines are kinda of fun to run. We can hook you up with diaphragms if you need them. A NOS engine would most like have a clean white pull cord and no exhaust residue in the collection manifold. Wipe a clean white towel or cloth inside there to check. If you do sell them it might be best to have them running before that to demonstrate to perspective buyers. I prefer non runners as they're typically less expensive and I like to work on them anyway.

Not that I don't like them, just don't put them near the top of the O&R list of collectable tools. And for someone that isn't a chainsaw collector, somehow there's about 15 or so out there including the Homelite stuff. I'm not a generator collector either but think there's about 10 of those too.

That's good news! Been a long time since I've opened up an oldie but pretty sure the crank threads are normal. I probably have a metal gear for a replacement if you want it but doubt you're going to be working that thing anyway. Those old school cork lining clutches never actually clutch much anyway. Sanding the edges of the cork like shown in the engine rebuild pics helps a lot. But again, doubt you're going to be using it but do it if your running a tool with one of those. The inner wire isn't a problem. Picture hanging wire can be used or numerous other things. It's the conduit which is the problem so far so if you found something... Whatchya got?

Nothing. I have another saw that doesn't look right with a 2" longer bar so this shorter one will look better on that saw. The longer bar is just as nice and shouldn't look out of proportion on this type of saw so maybe swap them. Not a big deal but since they're already here... as I wouldn't specifically look for bars to do it. I'll post some pics of all the saws since having nice one's now after getting a couple done. Still have a Jim Savage saw (Green) and a Lancaster mini twelve (Black) but they're basically Mustang saws in different color paint. Oh, and have a yellow Mustang too.

Well, that hammer doesn't appear like it's new so... Is that just the light or did ya use a silver round with a gold bird decal ?

Clint's perfect size decal arrived to pretty much finish this one off. Clear coated the original recoil decal last weekend. Just needs some yellow touch up paint here and there. The only thing I might do is change the bar size as the one on the "clothes iron" style Comet saw looks a bit out of proportion with a longer bar. That one was restored and painted a while back so it'll be an easy swap. The longer bar shouldn't really change the look of this one.

Got it all soldered up, cracks reinforced with epoxy and cleaned up best I can. All the electrical stuff works (in theory) using a meter and a couple of smaller batteries taped together for a power source. Haven't run it to test the generator power. Had to drill a hole in the top of the tank to get the fuel line all straightened out. It's undetectable with engine on and sealed using Seal All.

Old Chicken Powers are a good source for longer conduits too.

It's difficult to see the size of the bulbs without any reference but if one of those clear 2 in the middle looks like it could used, let me know. Is one about the size of the cover on the Nichols? What would the purpose of that be?

Seems the BFH was ready to go but apparently it wasn't necessary! Good thing I'd go with a traditional ball handle. That engine looks brand new!

Thanks for posting those Paul. Plus the added bonus of the spark plug sign on your ceiling! That's cool too

How about posting some pics of that trimmer?

If there is could you please point us to it? And if there is or not, I'm not so sure there's much value in keeping it whole (other than sentimental) or even close to as much as repairing 4-5 other tools with the correct conduit

Mine does not have any threads inside the hole to screw a cover in. Think it must've been just a push in thingy or nothing at all. I had to fix my bulb socket as it just spun while trying to install the bulb. Most likely your problem too?

We have a couple of O&R collectors on here from across the pond. Let's see if they can provide any parts first. Not impossible to find there just not as plentiful. @factory David has some diaphragms too. We can get you starter parts so don't worry about that. Those type of tanks are difficult to come by, especially the oil tank since it's specific to that saw but I'd guess the pump could be swapped into a fuel tank with some modifications. You are the person which scored the saw we were discussing in this thread

Replied to your other post. Your location may be important to get you parts

Bodger It would certainly help to know your location as you didn't fill it in when joining. The pic shows it's also missing a starter paw and I would strongly suggest you go through the engine to determine any other parts needed. I can guarantee it will not be a gas go situation if the saw is still in that condition. You'll need a carb diaphragm at minimum too. Clean points etc. I'm sure we can help!

David, do you know the difference between the odd and even muffler sections? Always assumed they were all the same, just stacked

Now I'm think'n Joe was just mess'n around with me. Can't see the engine mount in the pics besides the piece coming from the front. Is that light powered by one of those old school bicycle type generators which ride on the tire to turn it? I'll need a pipe flaring tool to do the handle bar connections

Found serial numbers on 2 of mine. 0001276 and 0001826 That long muffler stuff was another option. The bolt and the sections

Just noticed they cut off a section of the back plate. Not sure what the purpose of that was. What tool this is?

First check the gearbox as that may be why it won't move because of hardened grease. If it's the engine, Pour or spray some oil in the spark plug hole, let it sit in there for a day or two and use your hand to turn the flywheel. Go back and forth in very short turns and it should free up if locked because of sitting. Bet that thing has been sitting in a box since the early 60s like someone started a project but never finished. They probably had a hard time starting it without a primer and the tank below the carb. The condensers on the early engines were shorter and fatter so it's probably original. That throttle cable was a factory option and cost a whopping $1. You can see a very short one was used on the Bejay winch which has that same knob. No need to find any of that conduit now since you now have a 3ft supply.

Fixed'm for ya Sling Blade. I need to find a cover for the light bulb. Since you're the lawn mower man, would you happen to have a clear fuel primer bulb that size?

Electrical stuff cleaned an repaired. It was a pain in the a@@ and still need to splice those two from the gen back together but it's cleaner and definitely better now.