Wallfish

just tried my own advice and cut a couple off the feeler gauge. It seemed like .002 was right but again, I'm only going by feel with my fingers and trying to compare it with the gauged material. Real scientific like approach! Please don't try this at home! The feeler gauge is unfortunately not the correct width so they need to be cut length wise. BUT it was perfect size for halfway so 2 can be cut from the same length. Used very scientific tools to cut them, scissors and an Xacto knife. Left is #1 attempt middle is actual spring Right is #2 attempt Clearly not perfect as the first one is dimensional sewage but #2 might actually work. After cutting a bunch the technique should improve so therefore the finished product should as well. Scientific reasoning. LoL

Just guessing and going by feel but here's a 3" x 50 " roll of .003. That should keep the new guy busy cut'n carb springs for a while! LoL https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRECISION-BRAND-SHIM-STOCK-ROLL-BLUE-TEMPERED-STEEL-003-GAUGE-3-X-50-23120/401788624351?epid=1530224846&hash=item5d8c77dddf:g:0LIAAOSwg6ldB6p7 OR, for a quick try on cutting them, how about using a cheapie feeler guage from harbor freight? The width of the one I have is the perfect length of the spring. Now they can be tried in different thicknesses too and you can probably cut almost 10 from each different size. A whopping $5 to try one https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html Whatever you do don't use a shopping cart when going in there. It's always impulse buy hell if you like tinkering or tools. Go in for a $5 item and come out $50 poorer. Minimum!

I'll get you a carb arm too. @CNew is going to measure the thickness of that steel of a spring. They sell thin blue tempered spring shim stock in different thicknesses on epay. Be real nice if we can match that thickness so it would be easier to try and reproduce those springs. even closer than the piece of material I have would be better.

Hey Scott Unfortunately those arm springs are scarce but it's something I've been thinking about on how to make a replacement. That thin of a spring steel might be difficult to find but I have not actually put the time in to search it. But, if you're a handy guy and want to try making one, I do have some thin spring steel from a piston ring compressor tool. It would probably need to be ground or filed down to be thinner, then cut into shape. you can use what's left of your spring for a template of the size and shape. Let me know if you want to try and I'll send you a piece of the metal. Only requirement is you need to report back with your success or failure so we know if it works or not.

Just went out and cut a piece off the pipe about 3/4 inch wide. This should make it easier for removing the spring from the retainer once in the housing instead of picking at the thinner one with a dental tool or small screwdriver. Two storage rings and one installation ring

I threw in one of the NOS springs when sending those neon's parts. Probably should have stole some of the NOS orange carb gaskets for the body connection to the induction piece as I just had a couple of damaged ones.

NOS recoil springs come packed with these metal retainers. It makes the spring very easy to install into the housing. I reuse them for used springs when servicing the recoils. Clean and coil up the used spring small enough to load into the retainer so you won't need to pinch and hold the spring tension while installing it. Drop it into place inside the housing and hold the spring down with your thumb or fingers while removing the retainer. Once removed, lightly release pressure so the spring uncoils slowly until it stops. It seems best to lube the spring after it's installed which allows the friction to control the uncoiling speed. They work great for storing any spare springs if you have extras or spares. Plus leaves them ready to go for replacing damaged springs and protects them from accidental bending You can make your own retainers out of 2 inch pipe. Left one below is cut pipe, the other is a factory retainer. Just use a file to smooth the edges so it's easy to remove from the spring. The retainer's thickness is less than the width of the spring but making a wider piece allows for easier removal. Try it and you won't go back to the pinch and hold panic of an uncoiling spring again. No more because of accidental release of the coil tension. Please send your $50 donation for saving you time and aggravation during your recoil services.

Reminds me of this type of edger blade which would also make a cool stand

For the decal? Price just went up knowing it's a Petro power product. It drove me nuts trying to figure out the little stop lever pieces and how it worked with the circle spring. It's been 5 years since removing it so it was a puzzle. The problem was the way the cable spools on to the drum. Typically it would pull and feed the cable from the bottom of the drum as that's closer to the mounting point which would keep the unit from tipping forward during pulling. Messed with that thing on and off forever but it always worked backwards. Finally realized the cable direction onto the drum has to be from the top, which is verified in that ad pic. Mounted vertical like that would be the best way pulling with the cable feeding from the top of the drum. Seems strange it's designed to be mounted vertical but the tank is not rotated as David mentioned

Another version of a Mustang saw but the recoil side appears there's something else going there

Maybe you can make your own outta silicone now? Me either but found the video interesting and that hydrogen peroxide can be used as a catalyst for silicone

I have what's left of the decal from removing it. The left side left of the B is now missing but I think there's enough there to try and work something out

So are oil changing services but prefer to do it myself.

Someone shared this on the Redsquare forum and thought you guys might find it interesting

Don't think I've ever seen that one before. The pistol grip type handle is cool

Got this one painted in record time. 5 years 2 months plus. Woo Hoo! Started on this project way back in Jan of 2015 and the engine is the one from the rebuild pics thread. The coil was recently changed back to an old school version since that's what was originally on the engine. Finally it's close enough to see the light at the end of the tunnel after pecking away at it for an hour or 2 at a time over the last couple weeks. This is too cool and rare of a piece to be left sitting in pieces out in a forgotten box. Not sure what I was think'n. Still need to paint the tank , touch up quite a few spots damaged on the yellow, figure out a decal and it appears there should be a chain guard on the front because of holes in the one on it, so maybe that too. Still not sure about winding on the cable or not. It's kind of heavy without it and there's no handle to carry it. All that cable is pretty heavy just on it's own. Seems it was designed to just be mounted and not so much portable. That Rustoleum paint seems like it never hardens so it's a PITA not scrape up during assembly. Started with this and now up to that.

I guess those 1/2" shafts are the same. It just seemed like it was hitting the gearbox box it works. The taper is just longer on the gearbox shaft which I'm guessing is just more surface area contact.

It's just like an everyday regular 1/2" engine shaft adapter but the taper inside is different. If it fits perfect on an engine then it's not the right one. I'll get some pics

That's like the same gearbox on the snow blower. It has that extra little shaft and gear on the front. If it has a 1/2 inch shaft on there I can use one. Never noticed the taper on those gearbox shafts are different than the engine taper is and lost the one for my current winch project. The gearbox shaft has a longer taper

Not for me but I don't even know what it is. Never paid much attention to the different models of engines. BUT, it's sure worth more if ya need one! I'm gett'n the feeling you're looking for something to cut up for that cut-away engine

Well get skateboarding across the shop floor then and we'll all watch! What's the password to log in to your camera?

Sometimes it's best to walk away for a bit and get back to it later if you're not motivated to do it. Maybe not for 5 or 6 years but typically the job gets done better when you want to do it vs just going through the motions to get it done. Is time better spent working on something you enjoy doing instead of having a finish project you didn't like doing? It may be different if you enjoy the finished product more than doing the work to get it there.

Good one! The casting on my handle wasn't to good so not sure what you'll find under that paint. Sand everything well and use etching primer and the paint will stick if you need to go that route. The paint came off of the engine parts fairly easy because it never adhered but like JUSTO&R said, it seems to like the green paint since most of it's still stuck on there. See you're a gluten for punishment too. Didn't that outboard teach you anything?

Oh man, you guys are mean so now I'm gonna go cry. Truth is it's a PITA to baby new paint and I didn't have the patience to watch paint dry so it was still a little soft during assembly. Plus the castings on these aren't the cleanest job with some pitting and bad spots. Mostly on the handle too.