Wallfish

Joe sold all of his parts a while ago

What are you powering with it? Sensitive computer equipment? Typical lights and motors ain't gonna care. The governor should limit the rpms so make sure it's not hanging up or something. You can probably add a screw where the cable would go for things like a drill or mini bike engine that uses a throttle cable if you need to limit the butterfly from opening.

I just pinched them with my fingers and kinda twisted. I guess you could make a ring compressor from some thin sheet metal and a hose clamp to tap them in sorta like big engines.

Some good reviews on the 110v Harbor Freight ones according to a guy I know. Not overly expensive. Spend good money on a good helmet though, you get what you pay for and welder's flash really sucks when it happens!!! Sell me one of your rare O&R tools (Cheap) to finance one! LoL I had a Hobart 140 using flux core wire before graduating to real 240v mig with Argon mix gas. It was great little machine for the "everyday" stuff but I would still stick weld any heavy structural type things. I'd like to learn how to TIG weld.

Dam, that looks real good. Nice job! I agree that it would look funny if it was left shiny new compared to the rest. How did you finally attach the ring to the plate?

The AEP chicken power used a different gas tank that mounted above the engine on the handle bars so the carbs did not have or need a primer button

Welcome back Chris! Unfortunately I don't have any 20A parts.

Those parts are original. It's a later model from Advanced Engine Products (AEP) that bought out O&R. It would have had a square recoil that was an improvement to the teardrop housing recoils. The exhaust was a tube that threads onto the manifold and thing they are the only tool with that feature. I have a complete one in an original box that got ruined by mice making a house in the box. Pee and crap all over it.. Think I posted a pic on here somewhere

Thanks. Years of hunting them down The lapidary saw is for cutting rock, stone. Thin diamond blade with a water reservoir below for cooling There never was a count on the different tools. Although I've seen and heard of most, new stuff still pops up every once in a while

Brazing is kind of like soldering, just hotter. It doesn't flow as thin as solder but you can move it around with the heat. Those little torches would work good for stubborn rusty nut and bolt removal too. MIG welding makes things pretty easy and it's not crazy expensive with a small 110v welder using flux core wire to get started. Plenty of instruction videos online for both to get inspired. You're never too old to learn a new skill and you should be able to find more uses for either one beyond this handle fix.

That's not too bad! Just throwing it out there. You can get a small mapp oxy torch for about $100 and braze it. They might even get hot enough to gas weld with steel. We used metal coat hangers for the welding rods back in the day.

Fess up. What did ya pay? Just curious what work like that would go for. You're making some nice progress Correct. It's the kill switch

Best to start a new thread so we don't clutter this carb tutorial thread with other stuff

Add some oil to get about 32:1 but don't use outboard oil. It's different than air cooled oil. Something with the ash and ashless and etc. Always best to run heavier on oil than lean. Haven't fouled a plug yet at 32:1 so... Even at 32:1 you have 1/2 the amount of oil. 50:1 is way to lean on oil for these IMO. It might work but you should know if it doesn't by the bottom of the first tank full. Best to give it a rip and get it all running BEFORE paint. You may need to remove the cover a couple times and noth'n suck worse than scratching up new paint. $0.02

1st question --Assuming you installed a new diaphragm so could be. So start with about a 3/4 -1 turn on out the needle. Use the primer button to keep it running while adjusting if it's stopping because of fuel starvation. Leaking case seals can affect the vacuum pulse pressure the diaphragm uses for the pressure to pump fuel. 2nd question. Not a big deal. The ports are ONLY there to allow fuel to fill up into the raised hump opposite the fuel fill. Without it, an air bubble would stop the fuel from entering that portion of the tank. The fuel line simply connects the 2 ports so fuel doesn't spill out

You can fold and crimp the edges closed too in order to bend it but still need the plate welded on. Circumference of a 10" circle is about 31 1/2 inches and most places sell tube at 36 inches. Good tight crimps on the ends and you can fill it with water which is much easier to empty out. And just another little tid bit. Connecting car batteries in series does work for arc/stick welding. I have a real welder but curiosity got the best of me so had to try it. Not the most safe thing I guess but danger is my middle name! LoL I used 3 batteries but thinking 2 would work with a small thin rod

All of those metal rings go on after the gaskets. The last thing to go on is the O ring which seals the connection of the case and the head. The rest seals the manifold and the head Yup, that check valve bearing should stop gas flow. Something is wrong

Steel Are you getting back on this project? If you have a welder get a longer tube than needed. Weld one end shut and fill the tube with sand then pack it in there. Now weld the open end closed. Now it will bend without crushing or distorting. Cut the ends off and you can remove the sand. Just throwing stuff out there again to see what sticks.

Try connecting fuel line to the tank port that goes to the carb. With fuel 1/2 filled in the tank it should bubble air when you blow into it. Need to verify it's connected to the correct port and that complete fuel line is open and not clogged If it bubbles try directly priming fuel into the carb or pour some in the plug hole so it starts. Watch the fuel line to see if it pulls fuel up now because it's running. <ight need to repeat a couple times

There's a whole section on manuals here in the manual section for IPLs Ohlsson & Rice Compact Operation Instructions May 62 Parts List 9-1-62 Service Directory May 62-1.pdf

Install the gaskets and manifold onto the cylinder head. The rubber type gaskets are 2 different sizes. The one with the larger inside diameter hole goes on the cylinder first. Then manifold, then 2nd gasket, then metal rings, then O ring. Tightened it by hand using a rag for grip, use a tool to get it tighter if needed. Turning the manifold with the cylinder at the same time will get it close to tight

That's a great reference for people to watch before working on their TTs. Lots of useful info! Thanks for posting it Although there were a couple things -- like being more careful with the recoil housing paint. Separate the generator with a piece of wood or something softer than a screwdriver. The two pieces of the generator should be removed together.

LOL You forgot the gas Agreed. Been eyeballing some for rebuild, spruce up etc. It's about time because winter time is O&R time if I get some time this time.

HEY! a Terry sighting on here. Glad to see you posting.