Wallfish

One way to check the seals on the case is to remove the carb Block that hole in the case with a rubber stopper remove the muffler Blow up a balloon and put it on the exhaust collector (you can hold the carb hole with your thumb too) The balloon will leak down. Fast and the seals are leaking and sometimes you can even hear the air coming out They will all leak down but very bad seals will go quicker There's no exact amount of time it should be. There are way too many variables to consider this real science but it does give you an idea of what's going on. Much easier to understand when you have many engines like I do but if you do the balloon test before doing the brake fluid, then do it right after (the oil will seal them) then do it again after it was running for a bit. That will tell you if the brake fluid swelled the seals. Tiny Tigers are tougher because you have to remove the generator head to get to that side seal. I've thought about just pouring some in the carb hole with the spark out and just puling it over slowly to wet the seals with it from the inside. It's something I would do with one of my engines but I haven't done it and don't know if doing that could have some ill effects on the engine. I'm no engineer scientist so don't know but I'm guessing the the fuel would just quickly wash it out. The engine will smoke a bit until it does.

I've had an old bottle of that stuff around for years. Old enough the label is worn off How about this? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-DOT-3-Brake-Fluid-12-oz/16821275?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=16821275_0&wl14=brake fluid&veh=sem&msclkid=fc2bd284637c172775d6b1f930288b64&gclid=fc2bd284637c172775d6b1f930288b64&gclsrc=3p.ds No, they're not the same.

There are NOS parts out there but seals are very hard to find. Try the brake fluid and that will tell you if the seals are the problem and / or if you need new seals

The one under the flywheel has a metal ring holding it. Simply tap pry pull off that that metal ring. The other side, remove the induction section and pick it out from the shaft end side. You might be able to just pick it out with the induction section in place. Both seals were installed from the outside of the case You can pull the seals out of your engine and measure them yourself is the best way and try and find replacements or search ebay and the net. As stated before they will be very difficult to find as NOS seals. Once they're damaged you will be SOL and just turned that engine into a brick unless you can find new seals. Or put new O rings in there if you want to try that. Is there any particular reason why you don't want to even try the brake fluid as suggested??? Create a Youtube account if you don't have one and upload the video to Youtube. Then you can post the link to that video on here and we can watch/see it

They're very difficult to find. you won't find an "off the shelf" replacement as far as I'm aware That's why I suggested using the brake fluid to help swell them. Give it a try, nothing to loose

Do you have some?

The points pin where the spring sits on is short and shouldn't be tall enough to touch the cover. The points spring needs to be in contact with the pin as that's the transfer of the connection to the pin and the condenser. Make sure that connection is clean. Clean the post and the spring. A cause of running erratic is typically the case seals. Leaking seals will affect the vacuum/pressure pulse pressure of the carb diaphragm and that's how the diaphragm moves to pump fuel. When fuel is pumped erratically it will run erratically and no adjustment to the carb is going to fix that. Clean ALL the points connections Add a few drops of DOT3 brake fluid (Not synthetic ) to each of the crankshaft seals with them still in place on the engine. Let it sit at least over night. Brake fluid swells the rubber and most times will be enough to seal the crank. There are other little O ring seals at the points push rod and the one screw for the carb. If they are missing it will cause a big leak Bent or damaged carb to case gaskets can do the same thing

Yes Here's a thread where I did a refresh on one

Since you had it running it might be safe to assume the carb is complete. What you need is a new diaphragm I have new diaphragms. Send me a PM There's a pinned thread on the carbs so have a look

Working on it but can't find the cone shaped piece This one on epay is also missing the bottom. They can fit on there without the cone using multiple middle sections https://www.ebay.com/itm/175446063237?hash=item28d9667885:g:8PMAAOSwvfViNJMk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4L%2BSDw1jiDybM5dtOmn5P9yKcgOSQ5v7gQlRAfg4bAZGBApfPRPnzs8fnUh0kAq5dzptn%2FtD9FBTNK7i3NX7wUsKS5vbP1WOHwftuXjpYK0y%2FxaZysxetfwjsdycJFkayhV2Vxh1eP%2FwTIXS9Y00zwa438dAZhQSHnDpMyN9OwTk4M5yMcKic1BrK4NgHzEbvA1x1YKNB5MJn%2FJUwPd1pYZuMbe10%2F56muGv4tEFTZ9lJ2TAaS36EFLAPYhitr6qLT%2FkXPadEkTXgB7TrIT50MT%2FgvvfjDwsweppPbtSEktc|tkp%3ABFBMmODFp_5g

Long skinny flat head screwdriver I have some of those check valves There are 2 small holes near the middle of the spool and a soft wire in a U shape is used to pinch the rope to the spool using those holes. The wire is twisted to tighten it then snip off the twist leaving about 1/4 " of it. You can use a copper wire strand from electrical wire, or multiple strands if all you can find is small wire

Carb tutorial https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1448-o-r-carb-repair-tutorial/

I do them by hand. Get most of it wound into a coil then pinch the coil with your fingers. To tighten and shrink the coil size, pull on the loose end while pinching the center tight and it will tighten up. Hold it the whole thing tight and wrap 5-10 more wraps around and pull it again. Repeat the process until it's small enough and all coiled up. It takes a little while It's easier if it's clean and dry. Oil it after it's installed into the housing Let me know if this doesn't make sense

There were 2 different sizes used 1/16 or 3/32 ball bearings. You can find them in the drawers at an old school hardware store (if there are any left around you)

You're welcome ! Glad you finally got her going.

It wasn't a big event. Just at a guy's house but yeah, it definitely got some attention. I enjoy explaining what they are, answering questions and trying to generate interest in them

Didn't have time to really set up the display so they ended up scattered on the trailer. There was still a couple left in the van.

Ah man, wish I knew it was missing the metal diaphragm disc. The arm can wear the diaphragm but it can work and run without it. Make sure the thin plastic check valve (#6) is on top of the gasket. It seals the little hole on the diaphragm body

Here's the list of more that's going. I'm hoping to generate some more people's interest in O&R stuff and the best way is to let them see a bunch of the applications available and how cool these little things are. That's how I got into it when a couple of them were sitting on a shelf where I went to buy something else. Mity Mite generator Creme Lure generator TT 300 2 versions of Chip A Saw Mono Chainsaw Comet chainsaw Comet pump C Saw circular saw Little Wonder hedge trimmer Bee Jay winch JB power chipper saw Polaris Power pole snow blower Polaris power pole outboard Compressor with spay gun Wards digger 10 Micro mini bike Turbair ToT Glow fuel conversion engine with airplane prop

Yes. I'd prefer having the smaller Buffalo Turbine one but ...

This WAS a nice NOS chicken power unit in the original box too It's been packed way in the back and has been there for a very long time. 2012 maybe? Pulled it out today and discovered the ruined unit. Mice made a home in the box and the urine covered thing now needs a complete overhaul and paint.

Next Saturday is a smaller get together up in Maine so figured I'd bring up some of the stuff that doesn't go to the big shows. They haven't seen the light of day in a LONG time so it'll be nice for people to see them. They're too small and expensive to leave unattended at the big shows although I have never heard of any stealing of anything at any of them. Just a small sample and will probably bring about 20-25 tools or so depending on available time to get them out. Pictures of the entire display all together next week NOS PC3 Fogger LA Fire Dept's Fan Bridge's Drill from UK Grass trimmer from UK Petro Drill Lapadary saw NOS green Amp Champ Orline Cut Off saw

Those rubber pad arms are the newer type and difficult to find as there were not near as many produced. They tried to band aid the carb again with that fix instead of the ball. You can try sending a PM to @Mike in NC as he recently posted a big parts find and may have something in there for you. He never mentioned if he was going to sell anything or not but worth a try. A product called Seal-All will stand up to the fuel or Yamabond sealer to try and glue it . Since I'm always working on bush fixes for unobtainable things, I was looking at the Kohler carb float valves. They have a rubber tip on them which is about the same size. Never tried it yet but if it can be cut off clean and flat, then poke the point (may need to be sanded or cut a little) through the arm hole, Use a solder iron or something to melt the rubber to lock it in the hole. Small RC check valve or valves in the fuel line before the carb? Changing the diaphragm body to a ball type. It will bolt right on

Or, just in case it disappears like a sock from the dryer! No one knows how it happens but we all know it does happen. LoL Once it's all back together use a piece of fuel line connected to the inlet and try to blow in it. It should only allow air to pass when the primer button is pushed. If it's allowing air to pass otherwise it's not sealing and therefore not check valving. Some carbs allow the cover to push down on the little arm ever so slightly too. I typically don't use a paper gasket along with the diaphragm but I do add one when this condition occurs. It's an easy solve compared to trying to bend that little arm.

There were 2 different sizes but I "believe" yours would be the smaller of the 2 . They are 1/16 and 3/32 ball bearings. They can be found at old school type hardware stores with all the little parts in the drawers.