Wallfish

I haven't seen much for sale in the UK recently, but found this nice condition engine for sale on ebay in France, it's an early Model F with 6.921 to 1 ratio gearbox for 900 R.P.M. output shaft speed.

 

 

 
Decals on this engine, not many had the Model printed on the O&R eagle logo decal, I've noticed that it isn't stamped into the crankcase on this engine either.

 
The gearbox for the Model F has no clutch fitted, a Model J was also made if you needed the same specification but with a clutch, Model J engines seem to be more common than the Model F. Below is part of the 1961 price list showing these two models.

 
David

Not sure why they sold so many. I can't imagine trying to power two or three light bulbs with all of the noise and smoke!

Easy, get out your credit card and start collecting every O&R tool you can find! Your welcome

Find another one. They are common and can be found.
They get quite a bit of attention when I display a bunch of them too. Most people have no idea they even made 2 stroke powered tools

Find another one. They are common and can be found.
They get quite a bit of attention when I display a bunch of them too. Most people have no idea they even made 2 stroke powered tools

Easy, get out your credit card and start collecting every O&R tool you can find! Your welcome

Recent addition to the collection is a Derby Tiller. Here are the as-received photos. Definitely needs a good clean-up.  It might be a little while before I get to this one but I’ll add some photos as soon as I can do an initial wipe down.

What a great find. Always nice to see an unknown tool show up.
 
Become a supporter and have unlimited space. It's a small investment to help keep the lights on around here. Karl hosts the site and it costs money to do it and he doesn't go the advertising route, as so many places do. Click the "STORE" button up in the yellow banner

Been working a lot this week just found some time to work on my saw . Made a cardboard stencil  of a cover then cut it out of some tin.
Then brazed it together a little sanding and I have a cover. came out ok for the first one. now I might need to paint the rest.
 

Just figured this item number may help if anyone wants to replace the starter rope(s) on their engines. Especially the ones where the engine and or tool has been refurbished or rebuilt.  It closely matches the original braided rope.
It's fairly inexpensive and 100 ft goes a long way.
 

 

 
 
Here's on spot to buy but possibly cheaper if you search around
https://www.stenspartswarehouse.com/Stens-145-600-p/145-600.htm

Bought this the other day, thought it would look good displayed next to my Rowcrop.
Its a 1950 Triang Major.

Can’t you make one chris it’s just a bit of bent bar 

Well here is the project I'm working on now. This is the first O&R I acquired it was about 35 years ago my brother worked at a mower shop in Florida.
His boss was going to threw it out and I said I will take it . I took it apart and was going to get it running but life gets in the way I was only about 16 maybe 18 not sure .
Its been in a box for a long time 6 to 7 moves 3 states . I found it in a box a few years ago and this it what started it all .  Missing a few parts must have got  lost in the
moves  but well get it together . For the last few years I have been buying them when I can. thanks to a few good people I now have a few diaphragms to get it going and a few more.
Missing the clamp to hold blade and blade. Just found a blade on ebay 8" is not on all the store shelves. 
 

Maybe those old seals started at .031, and now after many years in the engine, they end up measuring .036 ?  Gas, oil, heat, friction, time and you're measuring a worn seal. What does the shaft measure where the seal rides? Or maybe that's what you measured, IDK
Seems to me a tight fit of .005 under for the ID is better than a loose fit of .004 over

The most interesting thing is
" My brother was watching some old episodes of the "The Price is Right" from 1973 on YouTube "

Mono saw

 

 

Finally scored me a Turbair with the help of member Darmic1. The seller refused to ship it to the U.S. so Darren helped me out. In the process of it all, we made a trade of O&R tools so some U.S. tools are now headed to the U.K. I'm looking forward to breaking it down, giving it a good cleaning and a complete refurbish. Now on the hunt for a canister which was used for the chemical fog so if anyone has any idea of what they looked like or the type that might fit into the connection, please let me know. It appears it would have been a pressurized can.
 These sprayer/foggers have a VERY unique and interesting carb set up where they extended the diaphragm pump assembly away from the carb body.

IMO they actually look better without the plastic cover.
I attached a drillgine gas tank to one of mine and it gets a lot of attention at the shows. A vertical style normal O&R round tank with a bracket would look good too

Ummm, I have moderator status now and you're tempting me to ban you from the forum!

What they should have done was totally re-design the entire carb but they just kept putting band-aids on them for the entire run. Primer button, check valves, remove screens, ect. The carb is the weak link of these engines

OK seeing as I forgot to put this orange Type 13B starter mechanism back together after repairing both ends of the starter spring, I though it would be a good idea to take some pictures as I reassemble it.
 
All the parts disassembled (apart from rope & pull start).
Starter rope length is 33" for the 13B engine.

 
Starter spring fitted in the starter spring housing.

 
The starter reel bearing surface was oiled before fitting, then the starter reel was wound counter-clockwise to wind in the starter rope.

 
The starter rope fully wound in & the starter ring assembly fitted.

 
The (often missing) plastic starter gasket was fitted.

 
Card, paper or plastic spring winding separator in place.

 
The starter spring housing assembly was oiled inside, then carefully aligned & fitted.

 
The starter spring housing assembly was rotated counter-clockwise (between 1 to 1½ or 1½ to 2 turns depending on which page of of the service manual is correct, it should be obvious when it's turned enough), then one screw was fitted to the open hole and the starter rope was pulled to check the operation & return of the rope was smooth.

 
The winding separator was removed & all the remaining screws were fitted.

 
Note: the correct direction for the starter rope.


 
The completed starter/blower housing assembly refitted to the engine (now I could check for a spark, which was good ).

 
A final note: don't clean these plastic coated sticker decals with fuel/gas (they react badly).

 
David

This strange saw uses a blade with teeth on it which are like a chainsaw. Cuts about a 3/4 inch size dado joint into lumber and is believed to be used for lumber framing. 2 passes will make a groove to fit a 2 x 4 standard US stud

Well, I'm at the A&E 😢. Today was not a good day. I decided to go horseback riding - something I haven't done in many years. It turned out to be a big mistake! I got on the horse and started out slowly, but then we went a little faster; before I knew it, we were going as fast as the horse could go. I couldn't take the pace and tried to gracefully bail. Unfortunately, my foot got caught in the stirrup and I got dragged by the horse through the feedlot. I couldn't get the horse to stop and was choking on cow chips (yuck!). Thank goodness the manager at Toys-R-Us came out and unplugged the machine. But, he had the nerve to take the rest of my change so I wouldn't attempt to ride the elephant. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Copied from RS.

See, David got excited and impressed so much by these little screamers at high rpm he's now the O&R guru.
 

Think the Lubriplate will still work even if you did run it hard.
I use it in the front worm gear gearbox on my tractor's 2 stage snow blower instead of gear oil. There's also a product called Corn Head grease which is made for John Deere for using in gearboxes for leaking seals.