Wallfish

Just need to do the recoil and I'll probably paint the top handle. Then a final clean and polish as it's difficult to keep clean while working on it.

 

Just need to do the recoil and I'll probably paint the top handle. Then a final clean and polish as it's difficult to keep clean while working on it.

 

The cylinder/exhaust collector gaskets are only found as new-old-stock, I have been making my own using modern gasket sheet and a set of punches.The O-ring cylinder seal can be replaced with a modern one.

 
The end float on the crankshaft is fairly normal for these engines.
 
I've still got to locate a coil, the spares engine the starter came from is missing this and a few other bits.
Thanks for the picture showing the serial number, I can confirm the A-139-2 is the correct starter dog, this type was first used with the A-47-10 flywheel after serial number 015997 and for all later flywheels (except for the much later Series 13B & 20A engines).
 
Which points parts do you need? I'm assuming something broke as they normally just need cleaning & the gap re-setting.
There is one part no-one has mentioned that I cannot see on your engine (it's also missing from my Chug-A-Saw engine), that is the governor vane, do you need one of those?
 
David

I have 4 of the 5-2 exhaust collector gaskets and 3 of the 5-9 packing band gaskets so if you need a set
that can be arranged. I will get a few pics tomorrow when I go to the shop.
Got my inventory  all in the computer now so I can just inter the number and it tells me the box its 
in and if I has any.
 

If you have an old rusted air cleaner cover to use, Insert a long bolt through the center hole and heat the cover with a torch. Press them out perfectly every time. It's not so critical to have them perfect as they should get squished inside the air cleaner anyway.

Horrible stuff as 10% is what's sold here. And, the corn lobbyists are continually pushing for more and E15 but all of that crap really needs to go by way of the Dodo altogether. In my state there are no pumps without ethanol except for small airports and some marinas for boat engines. Some states still have non ethanol available at the pumps.

Courtesy of 10242130

Not 100% sure if this saw was polished or came from the factory that way but it doesn't have the usual painted finish. It seems like it would be very difficult to polish the metal around the original decal without destroying it. Looks kind of cool nice and shiney. This is the old school type with a real early engine. Recoils screws from the back

Not 100% sure if this saw was polished or came from the factory that way but it doesn't have the usual painted finish. It seems like it would be very difficult to polish the metal around the original decal without destroying it. Looks kind of cool nice and shiney. This is the old school type with a real early engine. Recoils screws from the back

Seems the primer bulb light cover is a success and fit perfectly. Thanks for sending those Terry @JUST O&R. Probably not the best solution ever but it works for this one as it's just a display piece anyway and now looks much better with a cover over the bare light bulb.

 

It's No problem. I can delete those posts. Do you have a question to ask about it?
There's a little "Thumbs up" at the lower right of each post which you can use to react to any post but don't necessarily want to reply.
 

I'm sorry I don't mean to be unkind. Or anything to hide I just simply didn't understand the format of the Forum I guess

All cleaned and buttoned up...
 

Might tackle this one next. Has some original Octura brochures and a few parts. The engine mount and prop assembly are both genuine Octura.

I've had a look through my archived pictures (from ePay), it disappears into the one of the handlebar tubes as shown in the picture below, the wire for the kill switch must also go inside the tubing on that side. The standard lever type control on the other side is for the rear wheel brake.

 

 
Here are a few other pictures showing the cables on another of these bikes.

 

 

 
David

First trial run on carb springs.
I'll get the system down better but made some progress grinding the center. Then just cut them with snips but I'll work on grinding the two legs for a more uniform and precise spring. Will have to make some sort of jig. The .003 material seems good and there's plenty of it for making mistakes.

Threw one in real quick just to test it out. These are gonna work, and even better once the process is dialed in

First trial run on carb springs.
I'll get the system down better but made some progress grinding the center. Then just cut them with snips but I'll work on grinding the two legs for a more uniform and precise spring. Will have to make some sort of jig. The .003 material seems good and there's plenty of it for making mistakes.

First trial run on carb springs.
I'll get the system down better but made some progress grinding the center. Then just cut them with snips but I'll work on grinding the two legs for a more uniform and precise spring. Will have to make some sort of jig. The .003 material seems good and there's plenty of it for making mistakes.

I have just bought this today too! So I can swap parts to try the chainsaw but still on the hunt for a pullstart, diaphragms, and ad a chainsaw tank. Thanks andy

Clint's perfect size decal arrived to pretty much finish this one off. Clear coated the original recoil decal last weekend. Just needs some yellow touch up paint here and there.
The only thing I might do is change the bar size as the one on the "clothes iron" style Comet saw looks a bit out of proportion with a longer bar. That one was restored and painted a while back so it'll be an easy swap. The longer bar shouldn't really change the look of this one.
 

 
 

 

Got it all soldered up, cracks reinforced with epoxy and cleaned up best I can. All the electrical stuff works (in theory) using a meter and a couple of smaller batteries taped together for a power source. Haven't run it to test the generator power.
Had to drill a hole in the top of the tank to get the fuel line all straightened out. It's undetectable with engine on and sealed using Seal All. 
 

 

 

Got it all soldered up, cracks reinforced with epoxy and cleaned up best I can. All the electrical stuff works (in theory) using a meter and a couple of smaller batteries taped together for a power source. Haven't run it to test the generator power.
Had to drill a hole in the top of the tank to get the fuel line all straightened out. It's undetectable with engine on and sealed using Seal All. 
 

 

 

Something like that is well within my wheel House. I'm think'n 3/4 EMT pipe. The difficult part is finding something with the brakes for the back wheel and may already have an idea for that. Haven't looked into the fold down foot pegs but I could make those if necessary. Might have to use an old school banana seat which wouldn't look as good but...
No hurry at all as there's always plenty of stuff on my plate.
Just so you don't think you're wasting your time. Built these and the little Wheel Horse 2 seater cart in my avatar pic..
The Wheel Horse bike is 90% all tractor parts and looks even better now with an old school starter generator K181 engine on it instead of that modern M8. Made an article in a small tractor magazine.

 
 
The back hoe attachment was completely scratch built using some plans off the innerweb. All the way down to the bucket teeth. Used it to bury all the utilities underground. Loader is a factory unit

 
This little wooden model of a RJ-58 was made completely out of toothpicks and also made a magazine. Wheels turn, steering works, levers move, brake pedal works the brake band. The toothpick gives the scale of it.

I finally got the entire engine dismantled. Some interesting observations (at least to me anyway):
the engineering on these early engines is exquisite, noticeably different from the later versions this one has metal roller bearings throughout, and some of the cages look to be bronze, very nice piston has 3 large rings no rubber seals anywhere and no gaskets inside- all the machining seems to be really tighten tolerance (no feather vane gaskets and no little rubber induction case seals. The only thing that resembled a seal is some thin black coating stuff that looked like a thin layer of gasket maker where the feather vane gasket would normally go connecting rod uses a pretty cool two-piece roller bearing that is made of aluminum the points are a little different too and have a slotted piece that catches the copper tab It’s starting to clean up nicely. I can tell by the piston, cylinder and the internals that this thing hasn’t been run much, zero carbonization or anything, just a light coating of dried oil/gas varnish. I’m pretty certain I’m the first one to open this one up, didn’t see any signs of others getting into it.