Ian

Happy birthday Richard, hope you having a great day

Hi Doug, you should build the Bonsor type truck, those wheels and tyres look ideal for the job Thanks Doug, I will have to do some serious Googling and see if I can find him... That;s quite an hourly busking rate he is on! That's great Doug, can you thank Bryan for me I will pop you a PM shortly

I never has any problems with half-shafts even when using the blade very hard pushing dirt about and that was when the Wh still had it's original trans with 1 inch diameter shafts! I should of guessed that

Amazing engineering as always Mark

Hi Doug, no worries on the prop shaft, but if you could ask your neighbor on the off chance.. Do you have a link to his YT page? Reading the Reliant Robin post he sounds like an interesting sort of character I did try looking up "sawman" on YT but couldn't find him. Not much to report chaps (keep quiet for the mo Mark, you know what I mean ), but while doing a bit of research on Reliant Kitten front ends I spotted a Kitten rear wheel for sale... HHmm... I'm sure I've seen a pair of wheels that look just like that!! These were the wheels off the filming trailer! So lets compare the Reliant 4 inch or 101.6mm PCD to a Wheel Horse rear wheel.. The holes are too close for a wheel adapter to work, and re-drill the wheel is out.. So let's hope the Reliant brake drums can be re-studded instead!

Hi Vinnetrow (is it Vinny?) Good to see you here at MOM, thanks for checking out the link Anyone who builds miniature tractors using mower parts is a winner in my book.. Looking forward to seeing some build threads about your builds

It is just the chassis going black Norm, or do you have plans for a wild black and flames paint job?

Here's the chaps YT channel sten, I've been following his work for quite a while He also built/is building the Atco bike Norm. https://www.youtube.com/user/Vinnetrow Fantastic photo's Nigel, good to see such a mixed selection

Your as bad as Chris, Paul.. You both just can't stop buying machines

Happy to help I forgot you had those tucked out the back Nigel, what did they come from?

Yet another Wh Chris!! Just can't help yourself can you

It's amazing what can be found out there

More progress . Woo Hoo The left side is all finished apart from a greasing the chains, tweaking the middle sprocket cover to fit, and giving it a quick coat of red paint which can be done while waiting for welds to cool on the other side And strip down has started on the right side..

Always the way isn't it On the off chance you don't have a Reliant prop shaft do you?

Your welcome James, one thing I should of mentioned is don't make the adapters too tight a fit in the wheel or they will be a right pain to get back off again... You can guess how I found that out

"Update"..... I have just bought a Reliant axle, it should be here Tuesday

Here you are James The basic duel adapters are very easy to make. I can't remember the measurements as they were made many years ago, but allow an inch gap between wheels, so take that into account when you do the measuring.. The basic adapter was made from a strip of thick-ish steel rolled round so it fit's tightly on the inside lip of the wheel.. All it needs are four long coach bolt's to go through the four wheel weight holes to hold the second wheel in place I did take things a stage further by turning the duel wheel adapters into duel wheel wheel weights. Add a base. A "notch" for the tyre valve. Four tubes were added for the coach bolts to run through. Then the other side was capped off. A hole was the cut one side. And the adapter/weight was filled up with concrete using a lamp shade as a funnel Once the concrete had set, the metal that was cut out to fill it was welded back on.. Two Duel wheel adapters/wheel weights As fitted with only one wheel.. Just undo the nuts, slide the second wheel on, and put the nuts back on Ta Daa

I agree Ben, it does look much better without that big lump of plastic fairing on it, the new lights are much neater.. Until Garry get the correct wiring loom most of the old one is still there, but it has been made safe now

Nice job Ben, it looks like it will mow for a good many years yet

I think you may well both be right.. Maybe I should mix a load of nails in the lead to stiffen it up The quad was a Kawasaki KLF300B Mark... Yes I should really crack it open and have a look and see what's going on inside.. Watching 2 Reliant rear ends on Fleabay at the mo also, so anything could happen

I like your thinking, and a do have enough old lead pipe to do the job Do you think it will be up to the job? as the diff is shot I have nothing to lose by giving it a whirl.. I've just wobbled out to the shack to grab a couple of photo's.. With the filler cap removed all you can see is a solid looking cast lump inside that's got the spur gears etc hiding in it.. But in one place there is access to the diff innards which I could poor the lead through..

Just a thought here chaps.. The diff in the quad axle is very much past it's best.. I can't weld the diff up solid as the only way to get to the spur gears is though a 1" x 1/2" hole! arc welding rods would work but it would leave the diff full of welding slag which isn't ideal.. So, can anyone think of something I can fill the diff up with that will set hard, lock the diff up giving me a permanent diff lock, and is hard wearing enough not to get chewed up by the diff? I will get a photo later to show you what I mean..

If it's fun to use George, then it must be a toy I can see the "MotoBarrow?" getting a lot of use

I showed Garry this build yesterday Ben, the grin on he's face said it all

Congrats on buying the Husky Andrew, I bet you can't wait to collect it.. The count down til the 4th has started