Anglo Traction

I think most of us have been there with some of those issues. Hope you can sort it at your leisure.

Afraid. there is still a problem with that first number. It cannot start with 224 on a B&S engine of 1980. a few pics of the numbers and the machine will help. Have a look at this Topic- B&S I/D

HI Ray hope all's well, I don't know how I missed this topic of yours . Good job there with the panelwork. I expect it will work as good as it looks

Hi Aldy, I can't make sense of the latest number you've posted. Briggs & Stratton have 3 sets of reference nbrs on an engine. The first is the Model nbr (mostly 6 digits). It is based on type. Second is the Specification and lastly, as Lauren mentions, the serial number which is a 'Julien' build date code. These numbers are stamped into the cowling edge with a label next to them (if still there) We have to assume the engine is the original one fitted. I suspect the engine will be about 4-5hp, so the model number should look like 130*** and will be above the previous 2 numbers you've posted (or to the left on a Vertical shaft engine) Once we have the correct numbers and identified, I/we will be able to look up the type in the manual for parts and procedure for you. Regards

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip. The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open/clear when the lever is released and will offer equal resitance pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation- Regards

Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.

Hi Lauren, That is the 5min version. The deception is that they use the word original. The one you want is the 'Standard' version. Gives you 80mins+ working time, but requires longer curing time setting- I've used this brand for over 50 years and in hostile environments in excess temps of 65c and has held fast. There are other brands out there, but have never had a need to try them. Providing the parts are meticulously clean, dry, sound and abraded for good keyed surfaces, it will do the job. Regards

HI Ewan, I've just used up the last piece of lining on my Stationary project. I still have this brake unit in my stock though!. If you PM me your WH project Model nbr and what you're in need of, I'll check to see what I have. I'm starting to have a sort out of WH parts I no longer require. Regards.

Always good to have an alternative source for friction linings. I've used Auto & Industrial ltd for my requirements in the past. A link for reference - A&IFS Itd I foolishly 'paid through the nose' for a TORO/Wheel Horse PTO plate (rivet on) many years ago....still in my stock!. The 5min Araldite version is rubbish in my opinion. I always use the Original Araldite and has bonded my WH brake linings to spring steel with no issues. Just needs a longer curing time.- Regards. Richard

Thanks Mark, Hope all's well with you and family. Chassis plans are ongoing, yet to decide which species of wood to select....... meanwhile, I've been working on the 'clamshell style' clutch system design. Details were mentioned in post nbr#10 on page 1. - The steel ring is retained in the whole while I make and attach the various parts, then will cut it up when ready to close the 5/32" dia (4mm) rivets. Also then attach (copper rivets) the friction lining. The 2 halves pivot on 1/2"dia (12.7mm) rod. the hinges are machined from solid and initially screwed together. Also welding them later before shaping. Quite pleased with the fit and no play in the hinge parts- The bits of Angle plate were cold forged to shape with a hammer. Another essential time saving part dropped into the stock for this project and although slightly large, they will suit the style of this project. A pair of cast iron wheels were obtained, rust welded to an axle. Took a while to separate them and clean up- These are just under 10 inches in dia (250mm approx) and are not 'handed', so the curved spokes will be opposite on each side. I found oil holes under the dirt and rust, so I've tapped them out to fit brass 'Oilers' - The paint is the only colour I have in proper enamel, so not yet decidied the final colour. So a good price of a 'tenner' (UKL£10.00) secured these and saved me a lot of work. May even go for a 3 wheeler chassis?. Regards.

Afraid I can't. There were many versions of Onans used in Wheel Horses. Mid - late 70s BF type engines were used in some 'D' series models. Mid -Late 80s in 'D' and '400' series. Early 90s 'E' version engines used in 200 series tractors Also 'P' version engines used in 600 series and others. If you can narrow the field with quoting an engine spec etc and even the tractor info it is fitted to, an engine service manual for it may hold the key to solving the issue.

Thanks guys, Enjoyed making the shroud and working it out as I went along. Done with that now and the engine sports a N.O.S Lodge C3 Plug- Be a while before nexrt update, have to plan for the chassis layout etc.

Hello, Welcome. First thing is, I know nothing about your machine. Secondly, I did a search for the model you specify and It throws up a fact that it should be powered by B&S 4hp 4stroke. It's unlikely you will ever find a workshop manual for the machine for detailed servicing, other than a 'User' manual (another member here- Wristpin is the man who may have one?). However, if you can give us a clue and confirm the engine type, it's model, spec and serial number, we should hopefully be able to resolve any issues you have. Try a post some images to help us please. Regards. Richard

Just about finished the copperwork on the Cowling now which should now provide more efficient removal of heat and keep the intake side cooler- Carb side additional shroud will be riveted on, as the full shroud can be fitted and removed ok. The plate on the exhaust side will have to be detachable.

Hi Nigel, Good to hear from you and hope all's well. Quite enjoy doing the beating of copper. Just about ready to stitch the cowl/plates together with rivets now that I've nearly sorted the Plug access hole- Meanwhile, I had to come up with a fixing point I'd mentioned to secure the lower part of the cowl. Decided on a split housing so that it can be easily assembled/removed. Machined 2 blocks of Duralumin to identical size, then drilled/tapped to bolt them together. Excellent machining qualities of this metal made it a rather enjoyable job- I was then able to machine the inner diameters to fit the flange it clamps to and clears the crank bearing and shaft by a few thousands of an inch (0.05mm). It will also have a greased felt wiper washer inside to prevent dirt/water ingress- This now gives me a platform to fix the cowl and hold it securely- Have lots of swarf to clean off the machines now!. Regards

Bashing copper seems to be going ok so far. Part way through doming the top to fit the cylinder head. This is to utilise the 1/4"bsf threaded hole in the top to secure it- There will also be a fixing that uses the flange of the crankcase at the shaft bearing output side - Fuel tank caps will be more difficult to form

Yes Norm, very handy and will have a fair bit of work for them on this. Not made great progress, but have machine cut/threads on several short rods and finshed the 8 brass nuts from the 1inch A/F (25.4mm) Hex stubs which are shown in the very first image on this. Threaded 1/2" BSF and single chamfer . These represent pre-war A/F (across flats) dimension of the 9/16' Whitworth fixings- Starting on the copper beating now the cushion is filled with sand. Regards

Thanks Alan, Trying to make progress while I have a reprieve from the dreaded R/Arthritis in the wrists. Just to give you an idea of this setup, here is a pic of the rough plan/layout of the working bits- So left - right there is the water pump - speed reduction unit, then the engine. A 1954 Villiers Midget Mk2 98cc. Fully overhauled and rebored to +0.030" with new rings etc. Being static, the engine will need additional cooling, which will require a cowling and cooling fan. The Mk3 Midget has this built in, but blows the air from the flywheel side. I want it the other way, so have to make the shrouds, fan and drive etc. Keeping the sort of Victorian 'Jules Verne' style, I'm using copper sheet from an old hot water cylinder for the shrouds, riveting where necessary and maybe some embelishment? The first pattern from my drawings marked out/cut from the sheet and began rolling to the diameter of 4.5 inches (114mm approx) - Fortunately, I have a piece of thick steel tube of the same diameter which allowed me to tightly form the intake area and rivet/solder the joint- This is now ready for shaping (bossing) to fit the contours of the cylinder etc. A first time challenge for me. I obtained an old Lignum Vitae Bossing Hammer in need of some considerable attention, so I refurbished it back to good condition and purchased a large 15" dia H/duty leather cushion- Will have several jobs for these tools on this project and the washed Silver Sand is currently being dried, ready for filling the cushion.....meanwhile- I had to redesign the engine mounting plates to position the engine inline so I can use direct couplings. I spent the last 3 days marking out, hacksawing and filing the 4 plates after drilling/reaming the holes. Also made the reduction unit mounts ready for welding up, along with the engine ones at the same time- With these parts all assembled in place, the shafts will line up and I can make the direct drive couplings with an allowance for any small misalignment, rather than use chains and sprockets etc. Regards

Pitting or pips on the points faces indicate either over, or under capacitance. Depends which side of the circuit they are. Check for any possible short to earth/ground point in the circuit. Is your Spark plug good?. Check for spark with the lead wire end. Suggest you obtain a copy of a parts list for your specific Techy engine version. Once you have the correct part numbers for the Coil, Points and Condenser, you can search places like this. -LINK- . Maybe check the Tecumseh Manual listed in the 'Downloads' tab on the header line on Home page here for a start. if no good, search online for your engine version. Provided the Magnets in the flywheel can attract a large screwdriver flat end from about 19mm away, it should be ok to produce a good spark. Replace the points and condenser with new ones together.

Tidy machine Norm!. Good find. The steering wheel is a WH Belgium Factory fit (made in Britain). Yours is missing the Centre Boss and had a chrome self adhesive WH decal in the centre. I gave Roly the spare original S/Wheel & Boss from my C-120 project when I sold him the Tractor. I have a spare decal still if you can/want to find a centre Boss to fit that one. My 72 Raider 12 when I first found it in 2008 shows the same S/wheel you have- Regards

Drawn up engine mounting plate design and need to obtain steel sheet to make 4. The 2 stanchions from 60 x 40 mild steel box are taking shape ready for welding up - Had been searching for a genuine Villiers vintage exhaust, but realised they want too much money for not much style. I decided to make my own to suit the design I wanted. An empty disposable propane cylinder became the victim after getting the picture in my mind of how I want it. Constituent parts after much searching of materials, measuring, cutting & machining- Ready to weld the 3 tubes for the outlet to the body and the test fit of the brass banding which seals and registers the butt joint end cap prior to riveting up- The brass banding was cut from sheet, rolled and silver soldered the ends to form a close fitting ring. The brass outlet pipe is from a 1954 mower front wooden roller insert, and the fishtail outlet is from a redundant 1960s Ronson Blow torch kit. All finished and a coat of VHT paint cooked at Gas Mk6 for an hour- I've got a finned exhaust clamp from a vintage Triumph T140 which fits perfectly to fix it onto the engine. Regards.

I finally decided that this project will be a 2 stroke powered Water Pump. I rescued this old slurry pump with pickup strainer after laying derelict outside for 30 years- I fully rebuilt this back to new internally and improved the appearance with a bit of cleaning etc. Mid 1970s 1" BSP Jabsco model of considerable durability- Still being manufactured and this version/size will set anyone back £270 + without fittings !. Low running speed of about 500 rpm will shift 28 ltrs per min and can pump/self prime comfortably from at least 5 metres head of water. Max speed is 1500rpm and 80ltrs per min All this pump work was done several years ago. Not wanting to use belting for drive(s), my options are :- inline flexible coupling, chain drive, or combination of both. Will be mounting this on a wheeled truck of some kind to tie in with the general style theme. Just starting on the engine mounts. Regards.

It's been a long time since I was able to spend time on this. Only now just starting to revisit the project. Plan to make this a priority and finish this year while I still can. I've been putting details down on paper for it's design and progress, so hopefully will be posting updates soon. Regards.

Best Wishes Norm/all. I've 'Pulled the Drawbridge up' for the duration after an early shopping run today.

Hello Steve, Your engine is a 1987 model. A bit past my B&S workshop manual date of 1982, but I've added a link here- B&S 132922 (and hope it works ok) It provides you with a Parts List for that model. Can't see a spring amongst the relevant items. Hopefully,, Wristpin will be along at some point and enlighten us. Rgds Edit - Sorry can't get link to work to your engine, but suggest you follow B&S site directions to your model number