Anglo Traction

Thanks Ray, and I'll check out what's local when I get around to sorting the Treads, just in case my plans and application fails . Bit slow with just a brief update so far, mainly due to a few assembly problems I found. Main one being the L/H Threaded Freewheel/drive Pinion retaining screw (red arrowed in first pic) will no longer fully screw in comfortably. Suspected the internal thread was damaged when the Cylinder/Blades were held 'Between Centres' on various machines when rebuilt, so I have had to obtain a 1/4" L/H BSF Tap to recut the threads (in the post). The right hand side, I was able to deal with as it is standard R/H Thread and I had a Tap for that. The main Drive Chain (yellow arrow) needs replacing really, as it is slightly stretched and won't allow proper tension adjustment, having probs locating the exact spec chain (type 415 med duty). It is what is holding up the whole L/H Wheel assembly One of the mods I had to make was the addition of a Bronze Bushing (blue arrow) to carry the newly made Clutch Guide Rod, as the hole was 'Egged Out' (more on this in next update) - Another observation I had made was when I fitted the Cylinder, there was a noticeable lack of clearance between the end of some of the Blades and the 1/2" Whitworth Stub Axle retaining nuts, too close for my liking, so I machined off the surplus ends of the nuts that did not engage with any thread to increase the clearance- I've managed to finish most of the prep and painting of the remaining parts and are currently 'hardening up' at the moment (upper Handlebars had a lot of prep work due pitting). Several other bits awaiting delivery, had a job finding suitable Bar Grips, but the ones I eventually found will look ok and hopefully will start to look more complete by the end of the coming week and will post more pics then.

Congrats on a truly impressive collection of British made Chainsaws etc. and welcome. I confess I did not know of the make, but just checked out the Company history and now aware. Well done and thanks for sharing

Sorry for the delay in reply, been making some obsolete bits that were worn or iffy. Yeah, will be good to see it finished, but half the enjoyment for me is actually doing the work. Just picked up the remaining parts from the Media Blasters clean and primed.......need some good painting weather now. As for the Tread pattern, in short, I'll be using the Vertical Mill and either the Rotary Table to index the cuts or the 'Cast In' gear teeth. That's where the Devil hides James......in the detail!. So I figure if I take care of those bits, she'll run good and strong long time

No problem Mark, I'm on it, just looked it up. Unique Deck to Rangers of that style. Model numbers 5-0200 or 5-0201. 32 inch side discharge . Charlie......Put the number(s) in the Toro search box link I gave you in your other post (in Ride Ons ).

Thanks Gents and for looking in on this thread. Yeah!, bit of a jigsaw Ian . Started the partial reassembly and then decided that several bits of the Clutch Linkage are too sloppy, worn and pitted. Don't want to 'Spoil the Ship for a Ha'p'orth of Tar', so I'll make new bits during the forecast rainy days ahead - Hit the Wheels the other day, full of the usual dirt n detritus mixed with Grease n Oil- Slow job cleaning out all the 'Cast In' gear teeth while trying to avoid getting any solvent in the gap between tyre and rim. Bushings showed a bit of wear, Stub axles are good, so extracted them and ordered replacements the other day. Gave the wheels a few coats of paint and left them to dry. Bushings arrived today so fitted those and now feels a smooth 'running fit' - Gave the tyre walls a clean and a coat of Holts Tyre Wall Black (old stock of some 40yrs) to seal the surfaces. I'm leaving the 'Tread' pattern and the Hub Cover issues until it is up and running. Next is more Blasting, Etch Priming and 'E' Bucketing parts before painting and assembly. Would be nice to get a Test Cut in before the winter if I can.

Thanks for the pics Chris, I was hoping to get there one of the days, but failed miserably .

Look's like you did well with the price Charlie. The Engine is original. It's a V80 150018 (number is under the silver paint below the label in your pic). Tractor is a 1973 model and there is no panel missing as the gear lever is a Wand type and the Fwd/Rev Speed numbers are around the edge of the aperture. Illustrated Parts List is available, just type your model number into the search box in this link- https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro〈=us_en So that's your winter fully booked for refurbishment work

It's a MK1 Capstan Nigel. There is a wealth of info for you in this link- http://www.lathes.co.uk/raglan/page4.html . Very versatile machine .

Nice strong 'Harrison' James...... Is it an L5 or an L5A?...can't quite make out what the Swing size is from the pics

Yeah Hppy Brthd'y Norm. Sorry about the lack of Birthday Smileys. Enjoy your day.

Don't worry Ian, it's only the Camera Flash that tends to make it look all shiny. No secrets, just take a bit of time cleaning before working with progressively finer grades of 'Wet Or Dry' and some 'T' Cut (old original type) to finish. It's nowhere near as shiny as the Genset Engine though!. Well that month shot by (Sept). Made the most of the dry weather to prep n paint after seeing what I have to replace. The Spacer Tubes were an issue, the front ones were ok, but I was not happy with the corrosion level on the ones from the rear of the Mower (2nd row from top in the pic). As I had a 1954 20inch Donor Atco Mower, I made up 2 new Spacer Tubes seen 3rd from top in Pic ready cut and prepped for welding together. I have to scrap the rear 5/8" diameter Roller Bar as you can see in the pic (4th from top), it's too far gone. So my dilemma of replacing it was solved by having to use the Donor Mower's (20inch) 5/8" diameter Bar (2nd up from bottom in pic) and making an extension for it to screw on and weld it up. Reason is 5/8" (15.9mm) won't pass through my Lathe Headstock Spindle (19/32" or 15mm limit), so I can't make a new one. I'll also use the Donor Mower Rollers for the time being as they are exactly the right size. Top Panel, Side Plates and Blade Carrier were Sandblasted and Etch Primer baked on. Rest of the parts were left to simmer in the E-Bucket before prepping and painting. I went with Old JCB Yellow in the end, which may be a tad darker, but happy with the Paint quality. Several sizes of BSF Nuts n Bolts also needed replacing-. About halfway through this now, so the end is in sight and over the worst of the expensive bits.

Yep! Castrol EXP 80-90 API Spec GL-5 for mine.

Nice job Norm, and I spotted the juxtaposed numbers

Despite being only 9 miles from Brighton when I was growing up, there was no local distinction (us n them) between Mods n Rockers.. maybe I confused people because over a few years I had a 1965 Vespa SS180, 1958 Lambretta LDA150 Shaft Driven, 1960 Royal Enfield 350, 1966 Lambretta SX200 bored to 225 and a '65' 250 Greaves Challenger. The latter was consigned to 'Offroad Trials' after I got my first Car/Van .......maybe I had an identity crisis back then

That's a Good'un Norm, nice find. No stopping you now. Very nice gear there Iain .Craned in over the roof eh!......not planning on moving anytime soon then? .

Well Norm, you get another Lathe and your already pulling bits of machinery apart to find parts to 'Spin Up' on it . There is no cure for this obsession, so you just have to go along with it..... Good project and I'll be following it .

Bit of a delay with some closing posts on this little project, mainly because I have not had time to get down to finish it. Back in early July, I obtained a full Muffler Kit to replace the old one, mainly due to the sheared Bolt, but I would've had to pay nearly the same for 2 bolts as the whole Kit !!. The broken stud came out real easy and I fitted it all up ready to go- . Rear Wheels looked real tatty, so I pulled them to get Sandblasted, primed and repainted. Front Wheels only had bearings cleaned out and re-greased. Also wanted to clean off and protect the underside while it was bone dry, so I liberally coated it with old Oil and let the surplus drain off for a while (all of August). All the metal is solid and still some original paint under there- Put the Oil in and fuelled up, took about 3 pulls then burst into life after who knows how long . A little Carb tweaking after warm up and then took it for a spin to check the governor response in tall grass,,,, all good and engine is smooth and powerful. Did about 200 metres of field boundary path cutting and had to call it a day. Real happy with it and no more strenuous to use than the 1971 JD 624E Tiller I rescued from there a few years ago (I'll get some images of that).

Hi Norm, Thanks!. Ranger- I recall Alum being used for something by my Father. Didn't ask what he used it for, but it was the first compound to disappear from my Chemistry Set when I was a child . Well, with a wet Bank Holiday weekend forecast last week and the Postman having brought me various goodies, I was able to crack on with the engine. I had previously also found that all 3 (original)HT Coils I possessed were dead in the secondary windings, also that the Condenser on this engine was iffy, as the Points were quite blackened and pitted. Ordered a New Coil and took a good Condenser and Points from the other 'Donor Engine',(as well as the Cylinder/Head and Cast Iron Piston) . The Engine bits shown loosely assembled, the nice Donor Cast Iron Piston, Gasket Set and the new Upper cylinder parts - Engine finished, except for the Pull Start bits- Clutch Friction Plate 're Corked', Drive Shaft bits painted and re-assembled. Just out of shot is a new Cylinder Bearing fitted into it's housing - Yet another delivery the other day was the rebuilt Cylinder (Reel) and New Bottom Blade/Screws- Garfitts had done a superb job, right down to the thickness of the Knives. Freewheel Sprocket/ Pawl Plates and Drive Pinions shown fitted on each end are now all good. I'll reverse the Pinions so the unworn parts will do the work in future (not much wear anyway). Back to cleaning plate work and panels etc and decide on painting method.

Very nice. Would like to see pics of it from different angles if your able?. Would make a good subject for Scale Model.

Good job you have double width doors on the Shack Ian !, Is this one going to need a Drag Chute and Castors on the back?.

Glad you find the process beneficial. It won't prizes for a speedy process, but I'll be using it again on 2 Atco Bullet style tanks soon. Lambretta !. That takes me back to happy memories in the 60s .

Glad to see someone has achieved this conversion. I've been chewing the fat over modifying one of those to fit on a Garden Tractor for ages. I had doubts about the Cutter width in relation to the Track width, but look's ok. Nice job

So be it, and here it will stay. Well I've made some progress on a couple of iffy bits and incurred some more (predicted) expense. Wanted to get the old Cylinder Shaft bearing out of it's carrier housing that was shown in an earlier pic. Didn't want to damage or distort the housing, so having soaked it a few times with the cellulose thinner and Redex mix, I applied only progressive hand tightening pressure to shift the old bearing- Went off with usual satisfying BANG when it finally relented and then a few more and it was out- I'll clean the housing up in the Lathe and make a new Dust Excluding/Spacer Washer to fit the larger diameter. I'll also be making a different lubrication system on this using a 'Screw Down' Greaser later. Second challenge was to get most of the Carb issues and deep clean dealt with, mainly get the broken screw out and replace all the important bits- Postman had arrived with Carb O/haul Kit, new Top Plate screw and I had to replace the Oil Bath Filter Body, as the old one was covered in cracks and leaked. Got one of the last few NOS ones in the country and not cheap . The operation began with the usual trepidation wondering if my smallest 'Easy Out' stud extractor would do the job. Set it all up on the Vert Mill and commenced the surgery with a 1/16" diameter Ball Nosed Slot Drill- Followed up with 5/64" drill for 1/4" and then ran a 3/32" Ball Nosed Slot drill for 1/8". Bearing in mind that the core diameter of the screw I am/was trying to remove has a core diameter of about 1/8" (3.2mm), I had to be sure I didn't touch the threads in the Carb body !. In with the 'Easy Out' and out it came with ease (mopped brow)- I will change the 'Strangler' (choke) Lifting rod by making a Stainless Steel one as the old one is badly rusted and as all the old Bakelite type plastic button grip has disintegrated off the threaded brass fitting long ago, I'll mould a new one around it. Just the 2 Filter Body screws to make and all Carb bits are done. Turned my attention to the Drive Sprocket and Pawl Plates where they had suffered from damage when past attempts were made to undo them with Chisels etc (usually undoing the wrong way due Left Hand Threads or tightening them up). All the red lines in the pic show where the damage repair is required has been done, chains now run smooth and virtually no wear on the rest of the bits (no pic)- Engine will be next, then the Framework.

Sorry mate !, missed this question. Afraid not really. Don't like spending any more time on the roads than is absolutely necessary these days. My 290 mile round trip from Gatwick to Worcester took 9 hours last Thurs !, just glad the Ole Transit T200 is real comfortable to drive.

Look's like it is doing the job ok. What initial amperage are you using?. I found that doing a good shake up with a handful of Pea Shingle in between the treatment, helped to clean off a lot of the areas inside and allowed the electrolysis process to concentrate on the inaccessible areas like narrow joints. .......................................Just put the Maverick's 'Dance the night away' CD on and pretend your playing the Maracas along to it ! ...I did.