Anglo Traction

Cracking job, what colour did you go for?
Mine is at the very early stages, just ordered the primer and throwing stuff in the electrolysis tank!

The answer is 'Balls' Norm!  ....................................Yes the item is the original, but I have added the dome to it.
 
Back around Xmas, I observed some Kiddies Ball shaped tins that contained chocolate of some kind. Managed to get hold of a couple and found one without any significant damage. Measured pretty close to the radius, so went for cutting a slice off for a test.
First job was to clean off the paint/ink to see what the finish was to the steel (top left).
I then had to polish it and measured the amount needed to slice off for a sample and what method to slice it off with ( bottom left)-
 

 
First go was 3/64"(1.2mm) short, so went for it on the good cleaned off section - 
 

 
Cleaned up and tinned with solder, it was soldered to the original, which was not easy as had to use passive resin flux, but went ok.
Had a good coat of fuel proof lacquer and settled for an old small cafetiere s/s gauze filter cut to fit as a dust collector. All done and will go nicely with the now very tidy Carb.
Regards     

The answer is 'Balls' Norm!  ....................................Yes the item is the original, but I have added the dome to it.
 
Back around Xmas, I observed some Kiddies Ball shaped tins that contained chocolate of some kind. Managed to get hold of a couple and found one without any significant damage. Measured pretty close to the radius, so went for cutting a slice off for a test.
First job was to clean off the paint/ink to see what the finish was to the steel (top left).
I then had to polish it and measured the amount needed to slice off for a sample and what method to slice it off with ( bottom left)-
 

 
First go was 3/64"(1.2mm) short, so went for it on the good cleaned off section - 
 

 
Cleaned up and tinned with solder, it was soldered to the original, which was not easy as had to use passive resin flux, but went ok.
Had a good coat of fuel proof lacquer and settled for an old small cafetiere s/s gauze filter cut to fit as a dust collector. All done and will go nicely with the now very tidy Carb.
Regards     

Dragging behind schedule recently, but have nearly finished several parts which should all come together next week for a more bulky update and to probably reveal the ID of it.
Just to come back to the carb for the near impossible easy repair, I've repeated an image here that is in the link of the previous post to save any toggling for comparison.
I was presented with this dented mushroom Air inlet cover. Originally this was a bright shiny nickel plated cover, but as can be seen, the old 'anger scars' and corrosion is severe-
   
 
I can't call it a filter, as there is no mesh. It is not possible to get all the dents out. I did consider (briefly) taking the old outer cover off and
spinning up and soldering on a nickel silver one.
This rear view will show you the lack of filtration and I will probably spring a strip of oiled scouring pad in to cover the holes-

 

 
And the front, which I was not happy with,  where just filling and painting would actually be more work than the idea I had to fix this much quicker. 
I came up with this and now only requires a coat of lacquer after cleaning up the outer edge -

 
The Cooling fan shroud is of thin cast aluminium and has had a bad hit low down at the front, snapped a piece off and bent everything, also one wrong size nut fitted-
 

 
Having to make additional spacers so that the bolts do not crush (again) the Ali plate when tightened.
I'm carefully heating parts to ease the stresses before straightening. I'm using soap to indicate the temperature and it's going well, should be seen fitted next week.
Clutch cable is done but need to trim to length on the machine. Throttle cable (outer Bowdens) need to be replaced (tricky). Seat is finished ready to fit.
Fuel pipe is a challenge, as the two different tapered nipples were originally brazed to the old pipe, so I had to cut off the big one and bore out to fit on the new pipe.
The smaller one I scrapped and turned/machined up a new one and both will be soldered on this time .
 
Having problems with the final hurdle, namely the drive chains. These must be replaced, the originals were just welded together with rust, as they
were removed and left on the seat  over 80 years ago, Spec is unobtainable now?, no sign of any old stock, so may have to rob from a scrap/donor machine If
I can find one?.
    
 
 
 
 
 
  

Not long now Norm. Ailments have now delayed my progress. Only managed a few bits to date.
Cooling Fan was distorted, damaged and pretty corroded (see pic 3 of my very first Topic post). After cleaning and straightening, I balanced it up by filing the outer edges.
Then coats of primer, rubbing down in between them. After the first coat-
 
 
The Throttle controls (and cables) on the machine were beyond saving and scrapped. I had to find a replacement.
Not the best of condition, but initial clean up found it and the damage repairable- 
 

 
Plating was long gone, so had a coat of paint applied. The black bakelite type plastic lever ends were repaired using original Araldite mixed with lamp black.
Final coat of Cellulose lacquer. Other parts were either original plating, or polished lacquered steel and body correctly painted black enamel-
 

 
Machine had a 7/16" whitworth square nut fitted where it should have a hex nut, so I had to find and machine/file one down to similar shape and size-
 
 
 
The finished article and painted fan will show up in the first pics of the refurbed machine in a week or two ............tbc

Not long now Norm. Ailments have now delayed my progress. Only managed a few bits to date.
Cooling Fan was distorted, damaged and pretty corroded (see pic 3 of my very first Topic post). After cleaning and straightening, I balanced it up by filing the outer edges.
Then coats of primer, rubbing down in between them. After the first coat-
 
 
The Throttle controls (and cables) on the machine were beyond saving and scrapped. I had to find a replacement.
Not the best of condition, but initial clean up found it and the damage repairable- 
 

 
Plating was long gone, so had a coat of paint applied. The black bakelite type plastic lever ends were repaired using original Araldite mixed with lamp black.
Final coat of Cellulose lacquer. Other parts were either original plating, or polished lacquered steel and body correctly painted black enamel-
 

 
Machine had a 7/16" whitworth square nut fitted where it should have a hex nut, so I had to find and machine/file one down to similar shape and size-
 
 
 
The finished article and painted fan will show up in the first pics of the refurbed machine in a week or two ............tbc

Hi Ray, Afraid I never heard of it . A bit ignorant of the various products floating around these days. I'm rather suspicious of the old 'Snake Oil' type claims for them, but in reality they turn out to be basic compounds or chemicals that you can buy and apply for very little. That stuff is not cheap.
I tend to be content with processes that may take longer, but cost very little. Electrolysis for example.
 
A good example Ewan. just a few other different ingredients so they can claim it's their own unique concoction, as you say a bag of citric is obtainable from places like Wilko's .
I admit to using a rust converter (trustan and kurust) if I can't get it all off.
 
The Exhaust is done. Surprised myself after patiently tacking and building weld bridges and joining up using 1.6mm rods. Very few spots made it through the thin wall of the neck-
 

 
Had to break the old spring washer from the captive end cover and replace it with a wide thick copper washer cut and opened to fit onto the rod, then silver soldered the joint.
Didn't need to add a seam of weld on the riveted joint, it's good and gas tight. finished it with several coats of BBQ paint.
Rubbed it down in between coats and then finally burning it clean with a gas torch to dull red heat-

 
It will do and should last long time !.
Not much progress, as still making odd bits not worth mentioning and prepping for paint. The all important original seat actually cleaned up well.
I was unsure how it would turn out with the level of corrosion. It still had traces of paint and or primer which could be grey primer and white top coat.
Plan is for a light grey top coat until it can be confirmed what colour it was. Very few of these machines still around-
 
 
Hopefully will make significant assembly progress over the next week.
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
    

Hi Ray, Afraid I never heard of it . A bit ignorant of the various products floating around these days. I'm rather suspicious of the old 'Snake Oil' type claims for them, but in reality they turn out to be basic compounds or chemicals that you can buy and apply for very little. That stuff is not cheap.
I tend to be content with processes that may take longer, but cost very little. Electrolysis for example.
 
A good example Ewan. just a few other different ingredients so they can claim it's their own unique concoction, as you say a bag of citric is obtainable from places like Wilko's .
I admit to using a rust converter (trustan and kurust) if I can't get it all off.
 
The Exhaust is done. Surprised myself after patiently tacking and building weld bridges and joining up using 1.6mm rods. Very few spots made it through the thin wall of the neck-
 

 
Had to break the old spring washer from the captive end cover and replace it with a wide thick copper washer cut and opened to fit onto the rod, then silver soldered the joint.
Didn't need to add a seam of weld on the riveted joint, it's good and gas tight. finished it with several coats of BBQ paint.
Rubbed it down in between coats and then finally burning it clean with a gas torch to dull red heat-

 
It will do and should last long time !.
Not much progress, as still making odd bits not worth mentioning and prepping for paint. The all important original seat actually cleaned up well.
I was unsure how it would turn out with the level of corrosion. It still had traces of paint and or primer which could be grey primer and white top coat.
Plan is for a light grey top coat until it can be confirmed what colour it was. Very few of these machines still around-
 
 
Hopefully will make significant assembly progress over the next week.
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
    

Hi Ray, Afraid I never heard of it . A bit ignorant of the various products floating around these days. I'm rather suspicious of the old 'Snake Oil' type claims for them, but in reality they turn out to be basic compounds or chemicals that you can buy and apply for very little. That stuff is not cheap.
I tend to be content with processes that may take longer, but cost very little. Electrolysis for example.
 
A good example Ewan. just a few other different ingredients so they can claim it's their own unique concoction, as you say a bag of citric is obtainable from places like Wilko's .
I admit to using a rust converter (trustan and kurust) if I can't get it all off.
 
The Exhaust is done. Surprised myself after patiently tacking and building weld bridges and joining up using 1.6mm rods. Very few spots made it through the thin wall of the neck-
 

 
Had to break the old spring washer from the captive end cover and replace it with a wide thick copper washer cut and opened to fit onto the rod, then silver soldered the joint.
Didn't need to add a seam of weld on the riveted joint, it's good and gas tight. finished it with several coats of BBQ paint.
Rubbed it down in between coats and then finally burning it clean with a gas torch to dull red heat-

 
It will do and should last long time !.
Not much progress, as still making odd bits not worth mentioning and prepping for paint. The all important original seat actually cleaned up well.
I was unsure how it would turn out with the level of corrosion. It still had traces of paint and or primer which could be grey primer and white top coat.
Plan is for a light grey top coat until it can be confirmed what colour it was. Very few of these machines still around-
 
 
Hopefully will make significant assembly progress over the next week.
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
    

Hi Ray, Afraid I never heard of it . A bit ignorant of the various products floating around these days. I'm rather suspicious of the old 'Snake Oil' type claims for them, but in reality they turn out to be basic compounds or chemicals that you can buy and apply for very little. That stuff is not cheap.
I tend to be content with processes that may take longer, but cost very little. Electrolysis for example.
 
A good example Ewan. just a few other different ingredients so they can claim it's their own unique concoction, as you say a bag of citric is obtainable from places like Wilko's .
I admit to using a rust converter (trustan and kurust) if I can't get it all off.
 
The Exhaust is done. Surprised myself after patiently tacking and building weld bridges and joining up using 1.6mm rods. Very few spots made it through the thin wall of the neck-
 

 
Had to break the old spring washer from the captive end cover and replace it with a wide thick copper washer cut and opened to fit onto the rod, then silver soldered the joint.
Didn't need to add a seam of weld on the riveted joint, it's good and gas tight. finished it with several coats of BBQ paint.
Rubbed it down in between coats and then finally burning it clean with a gas torch to dull red heat-

 
It will do and should last long time !.
Not much progress, as still making odd bits not worth mentioning and prepping for paint. The all important original seat actually cleaned up well.
I was unsure how it would turn out with the level of corrosion. It still had traces of paint and or primer which could be grey primer and white top coat.
Plan is for a light grey top coat until it can be confirmed what colour it was. Very few of these machines still around-
 
 
Hopefully will make significant assembly progress over the next week.
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
    

Come on Richard hurry up. I'm itching to see what it is. Mower at a guess.

You can't hurry a perfectionist Norm.  Just be patient and wait.  Or to put it another way,  GET a MOVE ON Richard.

Hi Richard,
I just wondered if you had ever tried deox-c on small rusted parts like the silencer/muffler.  I've found it is brilliant for converting rust even inside inaccessible parts and interior seams.
Ray

I have used deox-c and it was brilliant, I then found out it is actually just citric acid and its much cheaper to just buy a bag of this online. 
 
 
Great work Richard!

2nd Shaft was/is a headache. Lots of problems and have had to do the best I can. The boss that the 52t Sprocket is riveted to is fixed to the shaft by a pin.
This was sheared in 2 places, so I had to remove the old pieces and make a new one.
Strangely, it was nearer to 6mm than 1/4, so I reamed it to 6mm and made a new pin from silver steel and partly hardened.
Bearings were a mess inside as with the other ones-
 

 
This one has a cracked inner race, maybe even from when it was first fitted? -
 

 
Took an age to clean and flush these out until clean, but when  packed with LM grease, they ran quite smoothly considering and they will have to do.
Rpm for this shaft is about 750 max. Had quite a wobble in the sprocket, so I tried to straighten it out and got it down to about 1mm  deflection.
Clamped it to a 1 inch thick steel plate and used gentle leverage-
 
 
 
 Finished shaft with just a bit of painting to do-
 
 
 
Final job on the Villiers Clutch was to replace the worn felt seal shown in 6th image bottom left in post #16. Thought I'd have trouble, but got the old one out.
Found an identical sized vintage seal in my spares bits, but was too thick, so I had to slice it. Shown fitted with the old one and cut off remnant-
 
 
 
The seal protects the outer cup ball race, which after cleaning and greasing, runs real smoothly  .
So clutch is ready for assembly now, when I've sorted the cable and routing.
 
The Exhaust silencer/muffler was next. Surprisingly, I managed to undo the remnants of the nut that holds the end plates on and dismantled it-
 
 
 
Wanted to to check it over before putting it near any media blasting. Shame one end cap is captive, as I wanted to remove it.
This end cap was nickel plated originally and suffered more from the elements than the other.
After an initial clean up, loads of little perforations appeared in the neck between the flange and cannister, but the welded areas are strong.
 
I reckoned I could repair this with a new plate wrapped around the neck and weld around the strong points.
I've cut and fitted the plate clamped tight with a Jubilee Clip initially for tacking it down. further joint cleaning to do first.
Got to practice with thin plate, as I'm not skilled in general arc/stick welding practices -
 

 
The cannister part is still sound with no holes or thin areas. It's a rolled sheet and riveted with a seam plate inside.
In addition to sealing the inside, I'm also going to run a seam along the end joint to avoid it blowing.... can be seen to the right of this image-
 
   
 
After this, it will be time for frame cleaning and repairs, before I can fit the engine and see if it will start/run..................tbc 
 
 

Good work Ian. Like the Tank finish
 

2nd Shaft was/is a headache. Lots of problems and have had to do the best I can. The boss that the 52t Sprocket is riveted to is fixed to the shaft by a pin.
This was sheared in 2 places, so I had to remove the old pieces and make a new one.
Strangely, it was nearer to 6mm than 1/4, so I reamed it to 6mm and made a new pin from silver steel and partly hardened.
Bearings were a mess inside as with the other ones-
 

 
This one has a cracked inner race, maybe even from when it was first fitted? -
 

 
Took an age to clean and flush these out until clean, but when  packed with LM grease, they ran quite smoothly considering and they will have to do.
Rpm for this shaft is about 750 max. Had quite a wobble in the sprocket, so I tried to straighten it out and got it down to about 1mm  deflection.
Clamped it to a 1 inch thick steel plate and used gentle leverage-
 
 
 
 Finished shaft with just a bit of painting to do-
 
 
 
Final job on the Villiers Clutch was to replace the worn felt seal shown in 6th image bottom left in post #16. Thought I'd have trouble, but got the old one out.
Found an identical sized vintage seal in my spares bits, but was too thick, so I had to slice it. Shown fitted with the old one and cut off remnant-
 
 
 
The seal protects the outer cup ball race, which after cleaning and greasing, runs real smoothly  .
So clutch is ready for assembly now, when I've sorted the cable and routing.
 
The Exhaust silencer/muffler was next. Surprisingly, I managed to undo the remnants of the nut that holds the end plates on and dismantled it-
 
 
 
Wanted to to check it over before putting it near any media blasting. Shame one end cap is captive, as I wanted to remove it.
This end cap was nickel plated originally and suffered more from the elements than the other.
After an initial clean up, loads of little perforations appeared in the neck between the flange and cannister, but the welded areas are strong.
 
I reckoned I could repair this with a new plate wrapped around the neck and weld around the strong points.
I've cut and fitted the plate clamped tight with a Jubilee Clip initially for tacking it down. further joint cleaning to do first.
Got to practice with thin plate, as I'm not skilled in general arc/stick welding practices -
 

 
The cannister part is still sound with no holes or thin areas. It's a rolled sheet and riveted with a seam plate inside.
In addition to sealing the inside, I'm also going to run a seam along the end joint to avoid it blowing.... can be seen to the right of this image-
 
   
 
After this, it will be time for frame cleaning and repairs, before I can fit the engine and see if it will start/run..................tbc 
 
 

You will need to have the Model and serial numbers of your engine before you can know what parts  you need to obtain. Presume you are in the UK?.
Post the numbers here and with a picture of it if you are able. 

2nd Shaft was/is a headache. Lots of problems and have had to do the best I can. The boss that the 52t Sprocket is riveted to is fixed to the shaft by a pin.
This was sheared in 2 places, so I had to remove the old pieces and make a new one.
Strangely, it was nearer to 6mm than 1/4, so I reamed it to 6mm and made a new pin from silver steel and partly hardened.
Bearings were a mess inside as with the other ones-
 

 
This one has a cracked inner race, maybe even from when it was first fitted? -
 

 
Took an age to clean and flush these out until clean, but when  packed with LM grease, they ran quite smoothly considering and they will have to do.
Rpm for this shaft is about 750 max. Had quite a wobble in the sprocket, so I tried to straighten it out and got it down to about 1mm  deflection.
Clamped it to a 1 inch thick steel plate and used gentle leverage-
 
 
 
 Finished shaft with just a bit of painting to do-
 
 
 
Final job on the Villiers Clutch was to replace the worn felt seal shown in 6th image bottom left in post #16. Thought I'd have trouble, but got the old one out.
Found an identical sized vintage seal in my spares bits, but was too thick, so I had to slice it. Shown fitted with the old one and cut off remnant-
 
 
 
The seal protects the outer cup ball race, which after cleaning and greasing, runs real smoothly  .
So clutch is ready for assembly now, when I've sorted the cable and routing.
 
The Exhaust silencer/muffler was next. Surprisingly, I managed to undo the remnants of the nut that holds the end plates on and dismantled it-
 
 
 
Wanted to to check it over before putting it near any media blasting. Shame one end cap is captive, as I wanted to remove it.
This end cap was nickel plated originally and suffered more from the elements than the other.
After an initial clean up, loads of little perforations appeared in the neck between the flange and cannister, but the welded areas are strong.
 
I reckoned I could repair this with a new plate wrapped around the neck and weld around the strong points.
I've cut and fitted the plate clamped tight with a Jubilee Clip initially for tacking it down. further joint cleaning to do first.
Got to practice with thin plate, as I'm not skilled in general arc/stick welding practices -
 

 
The cannister part is still sound with no holes or thin areas. It's a rolled sheet and riveted with a seam plate inside.
In addition to sealing the inside, I'm also going to run a seam along the end joint to avoid it blowing.... can be seen to the right of this image-
 
   
 
After this, it will be time for frame cleaning and repairs, before I can fit the engine and see if it will start/run..................tbc 
 
 

Good haul there Norm.   

It's tiring enough shaking it about without prancing around with as well Norm. ............Maracas! .
 
 
Yes, I do tend to understate.  I admit I don't seem to learn when to give up either ............onwards I go............
 
Finished one of the Shafts. Bearings etc were a mess inside-
 


 
Combination of dirt and dried grease. Good thing was no rust.
Cleaned up all the bits and had a need to bond them into their housings using loctite 638 while fitted to a 1 inch dummy shaft (25.4mm).
The makers must have drilled one of the Housings (left) in error as 3 of the holes are not tapped. Helped with I.D ing though.
Oil seal plates that carry the felt seals are matched to the housings. Seals are still good ! -
 
 
 
It was good that the bearings are still usable. 97 year old SKF RL8 double row self aligning cleaned out after a lot of work.
Packed them out with some Graphite based CV Joint grease I had laying around.
Quality of the housing castings are not that great, one on the right is full of blow holes
 
 

 
After cleaning up the sprocket and making 2 new Keys, parts were painted and assembled when dry. Finished this one now-  
 

 
Next shaft will not be so easy......tbc

It's tiring enough shaking it about without prancing around with as well Norm. ............Maracas! .
 
 
Yes, I do tend to understate.  I admit I don't seem to learn when to give up either ............onwards I go............
 
Finished one of the Shafts. Bearings etc were a mess inside-
 


 
Combination of dirt and dried grease. Good thing was no rust.
Cleaned up all the bits and had a need to bond them into their housings using loctite 638 while fitted to a 1 inch dummy shaft (25.4mm).
The makers must have drilled one of the Housings (left) in error as 3 of the holes are not tapped. Helped with I.D ing though.
Oil seal plates that carry the felt seals are matched to the housings. Seals are still good ! -
 
 
 
It was good that the bearings are still usable. 97 year old SKF RL8 double row self aligning cleaned out after a lot of work.
Packed them out with some Graphite based CV Joint grease I had laying around.
Quality of the housing castings are not that great, one on the right is full of blow holes
 
 

 
After cleaning up the sprocket and making 2 new Keys, parts were painted and assembled when dry. Finished this one now-  
 

 
Next shaft will not be so easy......tbc

Behind schedule with the Plummer Block (pillow) bearings, lots of cleaning out. Meanwhile, I looked at the frame items etc that were borderline scrap or broken.
Well , when you're presented with these examples, you wonder how you're going to replace them?, then try and repair-
 

 
The Eye Bolts look handmade or Smithy'd and what I would call Agricultural engineering, as opposed to Precision engineering.
The bolts were saved with careful work loosening off and straightening, plus, I was able to cut off the overlong rotted sections.
The channel formed washers on the small eye bolts were virtually rotted away, so I had to think about making replacements.
The problem with broken brass Butterfly wingnuts was solved by finding a  stronger 1/4" whitworth steel one .
Making the special washers mentioned were shaped more or less using an old toolmaker's clamp and shown with a partially formed washer bottom right-
 

 
A bit of normalising heat and manipulating them to shape produced these washers that should pass as identical to original when fitted/painted-
 

 
Another job of saving scrap was the Clutch Lever. I'll post an image of what it was like later when the identity of the machine is revealed.
New pivot pin and cable pinch screw had to be made. The two clamp screws  were rotten, and so I replaced them with nickel plated ones of the  same age
that came from the drive unit of an old wind up gramophone.
Presumed the lever was nickel plated originally, but just coated with Caliper Paint now-
 

 
Should make better progress now and media blasting parts now available. Should be done with one of the shafts and bearings over the weekend......tbc
  
 

It's tiring enough shaking it about without prancing around with as well Norm. ............Maracas! .
 
 
Yes, I do tend to understate.  I admit I don't seem to learn when to give up either ............onwards I go............
 
Finished one of the Shafts. Bearings etc were a mess inside-
 


 
Combination of dirt and dried grease. Good thing was no rust.
Cleaned up all the bits and had a need to bond them into their housings using loctite 638 while fitted to a 1 inch dummy shaft (25.4mm).
The makers must have drilled one of the Housings (left) in error as 3 of the holes are not tapped. Helped with I.D ing though.
Oil seal plates that carry the felt seals are matched to the housings. Seals are still good ! -
 
 
 
It was good that the bearings are still usable. 97 year old SKF RL8 double row self aligning cleaned out after a lot of work.
Packed them out with some Graphite based CV Joint grease I had laying around.
Quality of the housing castings are not that great, one on the right is full of blow holes
 
 

 
After cleaning up the sprocket and making 2 new Keys, parts were painted and assembled when dry. Finished this one now-  
 

 
Next shaft will not be so easy......tbc

Gave this a clean today, how does so much oil end up on the outside of a 2 - stroke machine 
I'm erring towards getting it running and generating (with luck) and doing an 'oily rag' resto rather than repainting it.