Anglo Traction

Thanks Ewan.
                       I fancied a change last few weeks, as it has been a bit cold.
So I turned my hand to learning to steam bend and shape some hardwood for the shafts, even though I'm making a steel framed drawbar to connect to the T/Engine.
The shafts came out well as a matched pair and have nearly finished all the 'Ironwork' fittings which were a bit fiddlely to shape in a small size-

 

 
I'm a bit slow on the tank work, as I need to plan the stages before I begin to rivet/solder up the sections......then there is Xmas!.

Thanks Ewan.
                       I fancied a change last few weeks, as it has been a bit cold.
So I turned my hand to learning to steam bend and shape some hardwood for the shafts, even though I'm making a steel framed drawbar to connect to the T/Engine.
The shafts came out well as a matched pair and have nearly finished all the 'Ironwork' fittings which were a bit fiddlely to shape in a small size-

 

 
I'm a bit slow on the tank work, as I need to plan the stages before I begin to rivet/solder up the sections......then there is Xmas!.

Thanks Ewan.
                       I fancied a change last few weeks, as it has been a bit cold.
So I turned my hand to learning to steam bend and shape some hardwood for the shafts, even though I'm making a steel framed drawbar to connect to the T/Engine.
The shafts came out well as a matched pair and have nearly finished all the 'Ironwork' fittings which were a bit fiddlely to shape in a small size-

 

 
I'm a bit slow on the tank work, as I need to plan the stages before I begin to rivet/solder up the sections......then there is Xmas!.

Thanks Ewan.
                       I fancied a change last few weeks, as it has been a bit cold.
So I turned my hand to learning to steam bend and shape some hardwood for the shafts, even though I'm making a steel framed drawbar to connect to the T/Engine.
The shafts came out well as a matched pair and have nearly finished all the 'Ironwork' fittings which were a bit fiddlely to shape in a small size-

 

 
I'm a bit slow on the tank work, as I need to plan the stages before I begin to rivet/solder up the sections......then there is Xmas!.

Outstanding work as ever!

Sorry to hear you're having problems Alain. Would be sorry to see you go and your absence would leave a large void here.
Persevere and try Karl's advice. Don't ever let any IT gremlins grind you down. I've just beaten Ford UK into submission with their website after a frustrating 3 weeks (punch air).........
....and I'm no expert!. 
 

Hi again Norm, just for you I had a quick measure one boot in front of the other style..
Part of the construction is just for normal "shed use", garden tools, garden chairs etc, but....
The part that will be workshop if it was square (a bungalow is in the way) it would be about 13/14 ft per wall inside measurement.
 
Well, this workshop building lark is taking far longer that I first thought!
I can fairly blame it on the weather as last week and this week has just been a total wash-out!
That and I have just had to have a small op which means I need to rest for a few days..
 
But all being well I hope to be back on it Monday, and maybe (just maybe) have it water tight by the end of the week..
 
We shall see.
 
A few more progress snaps for you all.
 
Working out the roofing panels, here you can see two shed panels and a shed floor roughly in place..
This is all just to work out if I had enough sheets of osb to do the entire roof...
As it happens I don't so I will have to order a couple of 8 x 4 sheets today for delivery Monday.
 

 
 
 
We has window
 

 
 
A couple of snaps from slightly different angles.
 

 

 
 
Another inside shot, but this time with added cladding.
 

 
 
The log cabin effect
Yes the board on the left side does need to be trimmed down a tad.
 

 
 
Although it's hard to tell from the above photo all that's left to do "wall wise" is fit a door in the right hand opening and clad the bit on the left..
Might finish the bit above the double doors as well

Alain, send me the most recent password you set your account to admin@wheelhorseforum.com then to log in.  If you are not able to get in, DO NOT reset your password, send me another email again admin@wheelhorseforum.com and I will try to log in with that password.  If that doesn't work for me, I will reset your password to that password and we try again.  
 
I have never seen this issue before, so it's all new to me.  Sorry you're frustrated, but to get you sorted may take a couple iterations, but it will get fixed if you decide to stick with it for a little bit.

Nice project Chris. I made a new bush for the C120. Used bronze and pressed in. Too expensive to ship one over and not available here.

Nice project Chris. I made a new bush for the C120. Used bronze and pressed in. Too expensive to ship one over and not available here.

Nice project Chris. I made a new bush for the C120. Used bronze and pressed in. Too expensive to ship one over and not available here.

Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished  . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals.
Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into.
Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets-

 
Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps-

 
Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true.
Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)-

 
Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.
 
 

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though.
With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs
to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts-

 
I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder.
After removing the retaining bolt/washer-
   
 
After an initial clean up and bonding check-
 

 
Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up 
 
 
 

Wheels are taking shape. Lot of monotonous work machining 20 spokes 1/8" (3.175mm) wide from 1.2mm sheet, then bending to two different shapes to fit-
  
 
Spokes are fixed to hubs with 10BA c/sunk screws. Still lots of work before these are riveted to the rims and finished-
 

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running.
I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale.
Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well  as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's.
So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s.
Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to-
Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser
Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far-
Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)-

 
Finished 'T' rings with the hubs-
 
 
 
............and the wheel building jig  with the finished axle/hubs  -

 
Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering-
 
The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump-

 
 

 
Happy with the progress.
Regards
  

Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished  . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals.
Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into.
Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets-

 
Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps-

 
Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true.
Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)-

 
Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.
 
 

Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished  . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals.
Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into.
Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets-

 
Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps-

 
Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true.
Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)-

 
Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.
 
 

Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished  . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals.
Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into.
Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets-

 
Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps-

 
Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true.
Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)-

 
Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.
 
 

Looking good as always Richard. 

Outstanding detail a pleasure to see.

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though.
With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs
to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts-

 
I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder.
After removing the retaining bolt/washer-
   
 
After an initial clean up and bonding check-
 

 
Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up 
 
 
 

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though.
With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs
to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts-

 
I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder.
After removing the retaining bolt/washer-
   
 
After an initial clean up and bonding check-
 

 
Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up 
 
 
 

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though.
With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs
to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts-

 
I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder.
After removing the retaining bolt/washer-
   
 
After an initial clean up and bonding check-
 

 
Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up 
 
 
 

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though.
With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs
to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts-

 
I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder.
After removing the retaining bolt/washer-
   
 
After an initial clean up and bonding check-
 

 
Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up 
 
 
 

Will come back with an update on this towards the winter. It has now been married up to a good example of the original mower it used to push around in the 1920s-
 

 
Needless to say in the meantime, it's being parked up on a display stand to earn it's keep at the Museum. I'm busy with miniature stuff at the moment.