Anglo Traction

Wheels are taking shape. Lot of monotonous work machining 20 spokes 1/8" (3.175mm) wide from 1.2mm sheet, then bending to two different shapes to fit-
  
 
Spokes are fixed to hubs with 10BA c/sunk screws. Still lots of work before these are riveted to the rims and finished-
 

Wheels are taking shape. Lot of monotonous work machining 20 spokes 1/8" (3.175mm) wide from 1.2mm sheet, then bending to two different shapes to fit-
  
 
Spokes are fixed to hubs with 10BA c/sunk screws. Still lots of work before these are riveted to the rims and finished-
 

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running.
I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale.
Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well  as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's.
So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s.
Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to-
Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser
Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far-
Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)-

 
Finished 'T' rings with the hubs-
 
 
 
............and the wheel building jig  with the finished axle/hubs  -

 
Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering-
 
The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump-

 
 

 
Happy with the progress.
Regards
  

Wheels are taking shape. Lot of monotonous work machining 20 spokes 1/8" (3.175mm) wide from 1.2mm sheet, then bending to two different shapes to fit-
  
 
Spokes are fixed to hubs with 10BA c/sunk screws. Still lots of work before these are riveted to the rims and finished-
 

Hi Ian , Shame you're having to downsize and localise your operation. It's hard having to deal with these kinds of serious blows.
As mentioned when we last met up, I know exactly what you and and especially your wife have gone through.
I've been doing the same with machines and W/Horses where I only play with small light work now and enjoy the space I now have, but I had a choice, where you perhaps have not.
Chin up and just tick over within your limits. Best wishes for you both. 

Hi Ian , Shame you're having to downsize and localise your operation. It's hard having to deal with these kinds of serious blows.
As mentioned when we last met up, I know exactly what you and and especially your wife have gone through.
I've been doing the same with machines and W/Horses where I only play with small light work now and enjoy the space I now have, but I had a choice, where you perhaps have not.
Chin up and just tick over within your limits. Best wishes for you both. 

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running.
I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale.
Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well  as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's.
So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s.
Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to-
Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser
Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far-
Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)-

 
Finished 'T' rings with the hubs-
 
 
 
............and the wheel building jig  with the finished axle/hubs  -

 
Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering-
 
The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump-

 
 

 
Happy with the progress.
Regards
  

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running.
I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale.
Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well  as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's.
So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s.
Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to-
Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser
Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far-
Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)-

 
Finished 'T' rings with the hubs-
 
 
 
............and the wheel building jig  with the finished axle/hubs  -

 
Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering-
 
The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump-

 
 

 
Happy with the progress.
Regards
  

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running.
I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale.
Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well  as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's.
So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s.
Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to-
Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser
Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far-
Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)-

 
Finished 'T' rings with the hubs-
 
 
 
............and the wheel building jig  with the finished axle/hubs  -

 
Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering-
 
The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump-

 
 

 
Happy with the progress.
Regards
  

Your right Paul, I'm not quick enough.
 
The engine is possibly a Type 100, there is some overlap with serial numbers & 3/4HP/0.85HP engines at time this was made, but the lack of fins on the crankcase suggests that it is most likely to be a 3/4HP one. My information also suggests it should have a plastic reed valve.
 
David

I know there is a lot experience and knowledge of these O&R enigne powered machine on here, so  I thought I'd dip a toe in the water and post this sorry sight in a Tray-
 
 
 
From a quick scan of the topics on here, I presume the red paint indicates an early-ish model.
The engine cowling is a devoted effort by someone in the past to repair or keep running this unit without replacement parts being available, as the retractable pullstart is long gone.
Being offered it, I'm tempted to have a go at it, but doubt if I could get it back to original appearance, the cost and availablility of parts and the current condition.
The only numbers I could see on the motor are shown here-

 
This being in the UK will not be so easy to sort, so may put under the bench for some 'over winter' repair therapy?.
Regards 
   
 
   

Will come back with an update on this towards the winter. It has now been married up to a good example of the original mower it used to push around in the 1920s-
 

 
Needless to say in the meantime, it's being parked up on a display stand to earn it's keep at the Museum. I'm busy with miniature stuff at the moment.     

I know there is a lot experience and knowledge of these O&R enigne powered machine on here, so  I thought I'd dip a toe in the water and post this sorry sight in a Tray-
 
 
 
From a quick scan of the topics on here, I presume the red paint indicates an early-ish model.
The engine cowling is a devoted effort by someone in the past to repair or keep running this unit without replacement parts being available, as the retractable pullstart is long gone.
Being offered it, I'm tempted to have a go at it, but doubt if I could get it back to original appearance, the cost and availablility of parts and the current condition.
The only numbers I could see on the motor are shown here-

 
This being in the UK will not be so easy to sort, so may put under the bench for some 'over winter' repair therapy?.
Regards 
   
 
   

I know there is a lot experience and knowledge of these O&R enigne powered machine on here, so  I thought I'd dip a toe in the water and post this sorry sight in a Tray-
 
 
 
From a quick scan of the topics on here, I presume the red paint indicates an early-ish model.
The engine cowling is a devoted effort by someone in the past to repair or keep running this unit without replacement parts being available, as the retractable pullstart is long gone.
Being offered it, I'm tempted to have a go at it, but doubt if I could get it back to original appearance, the cost and availablility of parts and the current condition.
The only numbers I could see on the motor are shown here-

 
This being in the UK will not be so easy to sort, so may put under the bench for some 'over winter' repair therapy?.
Regards 
   
 
   

Will come back with an update on this towards the winter. It has now been married up to a good example of the original mower it used to push around in the 1920s-
 

 
Needless to say in the meantime, it's being parked up on a display stand to earn it's keep at the Museum. I'm busy with miniature stuff at the moment.     

There are several possible reasons for excessive oil consumption in these older 'K' engines, so I'm not sure if you have covered all of them off yet?.
Use of correct Oil. It is often experienced that use of modern synthetic blends etc in these engines can cause high consumption. They were designed for Mineral based Oils.
A good 30 wt oil of spec as specified in the manual for air cooled, splash lubrication will always serve well.
It is also possible that fitting new rings to a worn/used bore will not improve it's current condition very much. It may be worn 'out of round' , of which there is a limit quoted.
As mentioned, deglazing a cylinder can work wonders for a tired engine, but it needs to be done correctly to resemble the finish of a newly honed engine.
Kohler recommend the honing marks should intersect at approx 30degrees, and if these marks are either too steep or shallow, the oil consumption/friction can increase.
Here is an example of the correct honing finish (after a rebore)-

 
There is another area to check, if not already done so.
The valve guides are a possible cause and can have the same affect as worn rings on Oil use and by causing the crankcase to be pressurised, instead of running
with a partial vacuum.
These are good engines and are readily able to be rebuilt, so I for one am pleased with your clear determination to get this one back up to spec.
I hope your potential engine rebore service is local to you.
It's a few years since I had a K301 fully worked by Sutton Rebore Services and I was so impressed by their standards and prices.
The sound of an almost 'back to new' engine running as it should is payment enough. 
Regards        

Thanks all for you help!
 
Engine has now been rebuilt with new bearings and had it running for the first time since i've had it! Very pleased, the delco starter gen is burnt out though so going to have to find a replacement 

Ok, Thats me being a bit slow responding and you being on the same frequency!. Yeah, strange how the occasional metric dimension crops up in U.S. equipment.
The specs in the Kohler Manual for the Crank journals each end are not round imperial fractions in Thous of an inch-
 
 
 
1.1811" = 30mm.
Regards.

Hi Ewan, other options which I would follow is, if you have a parts manual for the engine, do a search online using the part number.
Often, something will show up with an alternative bearing number or dimension (probably stateside) to work to.
Or, post the question on Redsquare, as there must be owners of early 60's machines who have been there and done it .
They should be same size bearing as in K181.
Good luck
 
  .
 

Put this machine to the test yesterday for my first attempt.
Used 1.5mm thick copper for my 1 inch scale Water Cart tank. Marked and spotted first for 144 x 1/32"(.8mm) diameter rivets. 
Annealed and cleaned the sheets twice during bending.
It will do for me as both halves rolled to identical diameters . Marked the adjuster knobs on the top Roll so I knew each is at the same setting-
 

 
 

Put this machine to the test yesterday for my first attempt.
Used 1.5mm thick copper for my 1 inch scale Water Cart tank. Marked and spotted first for 144 x 1/32"(.8mm) diameter rivets. 
Annealed and cleaned the sheets twice during bending.
It will do for me as both halves rolled to identical diameters . Marked the adjuster knobs on the top Roll so I knew each is at the same setting-
 

 
 

Put this machine to the test yesterday for my first attempt.
Used 1.5mm thick copper for my 1 inch scale Water Cart tank. Marked and spotted first for 144 x 1/32"(.8mm) diameter rivets. 
Annealed and cleaned the sheets twice during bending.
It will do for me as both halves rolled to identical diameters . Marked the adjuster knobs on the top Roll so I knew each is at the same setting-
 

 
 

Put this machine to the test yesterday for my first attempt.
Used 1.5mm thick copper for my 1 inch scale Water Cart tank. Marked and spotted first for 144 x 1/32"(.8mm) diameter rivets. 
Annealed and cleaned the sheets twice during bending.
It will do for me as both halves rolled to identical diameters . Marked the adjuster knobs on the top Roll so I knew each is at the same setting-
 

 
 

For many years, I've wanted to be able to roll sheet metal (in small sizes).
From shaping the nickel silver cleading on my traction engine to making fuel tanks and small exhaust mufflers.
So after saving up the Workshop pocket money, I've finally got a set of Mini Bending Rolls-

 
Quite heavy duty rollers for a 300mm wide unit and steel geared. Plenty big enough for all the jobs I have for it, and at 14kgs, just unbolts from the bench to be stored
out of the way. ....I'll get around to making some Swaging Rolls one day  

Ok, Thats me being a bit slow responding and you being on the same frequency!. Yeah, strange how the occasional metric dimension crops up in U.S. equipment.
The specs in the Kohler Manual for the Crank journals each end are not round imperial fractions in Thous of an inch-
 
 
 
1.1811" = 30mm.
Regards.