Anglo Traction

Looking good as always Richard.  

Pitting or pips on the points faces indicate either over, or under capacitance. Depends which side of the circuit they are.
Check for any possible short to earth/ground point in the circuit. Is your Spark plug good?. Check for spark with the lead wire end.
 
Suggest you obtain a copy of a parts list for your specific Techy engine version.
Once you have the correct part numbers for the Coil, Points and Condenser, you can search places like this.  -LINK-  .
 
Maybe check the Tecumseh Manual listed in the 'Downloads' tab on the header line on Home page here for a start. if no good, search online for your engine version.
Provided the Magnets in the flywheel can attract a large screwdriver flat end from about 19mm away, it should be ok to produce a good spark.
Replace the points and condenser with new ones together.
 

Tidy machine Norm!. Good find. The steering wheel is a WH Belgium Factory fit (made in Britain). Yours is missing the Centre Boss and had a chrome self adhesive WH decal in the centre.
I gave Roly the spare original S/Wheel & Boss from my C-120 project when I sold him the Tractor. I have a spare decal still if you can/want to find a centre Boss to fit that one.
My 72 Raider 12 when I first found it in 2008 shows the same S/wheel you have-
 

 
Regards
 
 

Drawn up engine mounting plate design and need to obtain steel sheet to make 4.
The 2 stanchions from 60 x 40 mild steel box are taking shape ready for welding up -
 

 
Had been searching for a genuine Villiers vintage exhaust, but realised they want too much money for not much style. I decided to make my own to suit the design I wanted
An empty disposable propane cylinder became the victim after getting the picture in my mind of how I want it. Constituent parts after much searching of materials, measuring, cutting & machining-
 

 
Ready to weld the 3 tubes for the outlet to the body and the test fit of the brass banding which seals and registers the butt joint end cap prior to riveting up-
 

 
The brass banding was cut from sheet, rolled and silver soldered the ends to form a close fitting ring.
The brass outlet pipe is from a 1954 mower front wooden roller insert, and the fishtail outlet is from a redundant 1960s Ronson Blow torch kit.
All finished and a coat of VHT paint cooked at Gas Mk6 for an hour-
 

 
I've got a finned exhaust clamp from a Triumph T120 which fits perfectly to fix it onto the engine.
Regards. 
 

Drawn up engine mounting plate design and need to obtain steel sheet to make 4.
The 2 stanchions from 60 x 40 mild steel box are taking shape ready for welding up -
 

 
Had been searching for a genuine Villiers vintage exhaust, but realised they want too much money for not much style. I decided to make my own to suit the design I wanted
An empty disposable propane cylinder became the victim after getting the picture in my mind of how I want it. Constituent parts after much searching of materials, measuring, cutting & machining-
 

 
Ready to weld the 3 tubes for the outlet to the body and the test fit of the brass banding which seals and registers the butt joint end cap prior to riveting up-
 

 
The brass banding was cut from sheet, rolled and silver soldered the ends to form a close fitting ring.
The brass outlet pipe is from a 1954 mower front wooden roller insert, and the fishtail outlet is from a redundant 1960s Ronson Blow torch kit.
All finished and a coat of VHT paint cooked at Gas Mk6 for an hour-
 

 
I've got a finned exhaust clamp from a Triumph T120 which fits perfectly to fix it onto the engine.
Regards. 
 

I finally decided that this project will be a 2 stroke powered Water Pump.
I rescued this old slurry pump with pickup strainer after laying derelict outside for 30 years-
 

 
I fully rebuilt this back to new internally and improved the appearance with a bit of cleaning etc. Early 1960s 1" BSP Jabsco model of considerable durability-
 

 
Still being manufactured and this version/size will set anyone back £250 + without fittings !.
Low running speed of about 500 rpm will shift 80 ltrs per min and can pump/self prime comfortably from 5 metres head of water.
All this pump work was done several years ago.
Not wanting to use belting for drive(s), my options are :- inline flexible coupling,  chain drive, or combination of both.
Will be mounting this on a wheeled truck of some kind to tie in with the general style theme.
Just starting on the engine mounts.
Regards.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I finally decided that this project will be a 2 stroke powered Water Pump.
I rescued this old slurry pump with pickup strainer after laying derelict outside for 30 years-
 

 
I fully rebuilt this back to new internally and improved the appearance with a bit of cleaning etc. Early 1960s 1" BSP Jabsco model of considerable durability-
 

 
Still being manufactured and this version/size will set anyone back £250 + without fittings !.
Low running speed of about 500 rpm will shift 80 ltrs per min and can pump/self prime comfortably from 5 metres head of water.
All this pump work was done several years ago.
Not wanting to use belting for drive(s), my options are :- inline flexible coupling,  chain drive, or combination of both.
Will be mounting this on a wheeled truck of some kind to tie in with the general style theme.
Just starting on the engine mounts.
Regards.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I finally decided that this project will be a 2 stroke powered Water Pump.
I rescued this old slurry pump with pickup strainer after laying derelict outside for 30 years-
 

 
I fully rebuilt this back to new internally and improved the appearance with a bit of cleaning etc. Early 1960s 1" BSP Jabsco model of considerable durability-
 

 
Still being manufactured and this version/size will set anyone back £250 + without fittings !.
Low running speed of about 500 rpm will shift 80 ltrs per min and can pump/self prime comfortably from 5 metres head of water.
All this pump work was done several years ago.
Not wanting to use belting for drive(s), my options are :- inline flexible coupling,  chain drive, or combination of both.
Will be mounting this on a wheeled truck of some kind to tie in with the general style theme.
Just starting on the engine mounts.
Regards.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

It's been a long time since I was able to spend time on this. Only now just starting to revisit the project. Plan to make this a priority and finish this year while I still can.
I've been putting details down on paper for it's design and progress, so hopefully will be posting updates soon.
Regards.

Best Wishes Norm/all. I've 'Pulled the Drawbridge up' for the duration after an early shopping run today.

Best Wishes Norm/all. I've 'Pulled the Drawbridge up' for the duration after an early shopping run today.

Made up a holder for it so it can be stowed out of the way-
 

 
Job done.

Bumped his topic as I had to make more improvements to it's condition. Plus I need to excercise the hands caused by R/Arthritis, so glad to get back into the workshop.
The spindle/chuck mounting bodge of a cut off piece of bolt shown in earlier pics was just not good enough.
I made a new complete spindle from 3/4" (19.05mm) dia silver steel. Set up in the lathe and acurate to within 2 ten thousandths of an inch (0.00508mm) over it's length.
Pic below is after machining the chuck thread on the end-
 

 
Comparision of the old and newly machined spindle ends-
 

 
After measuring, I found I could reduce the length of the 3/16" (4.75mm) wide cut slot for the new one, which produces a better bearing surface. the chuck thread for the English made Jacobs chuck is 1/2" x 20 tpi UNF, and the smaller diameter top end threaded 3/8" Whitworth. Both were screwcut on the lathe (my 1st attempt at power feed screwcutting)-
 

 
Did a check with a 5/16" (7.95mm) diameter long Dowel Pin fitted in the chuck while still on the lathe and it had only 0.0015" (0.038mm) runout at 1.5 inches (38mm) from the chuck jaws!, so pretty good allowing for the age of the chuck.
Did the same after fitting back into the drill and adjusting lower bearing clearance, I got 0.003" deflection while applying a side load, so I am more than happy now with it's condition.
Regards
 
 
 
 

And one more photo with the engine mounted.
The engine of course has been overhauled

Thought I'd add another find to this old Topic. Acquired another pressure feed 'Oiler' for a 'Fiver' (uk£5.) It was amongst a box of bits from a shed clearance. It was in a bit of mess, seized and badly beaten-
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
Initial clean up to see what I had revealed it was another Lucas Oiler from the 1920s. Diameter is 1. 1/2" (38mm) to give you an idea of size. All I could do was bite the bullet and desolder it all and reduce to constituant parts and see if I could clean it out and repair it back to working order. After a few days work, I had reduced it to this-
 

 
I managed to remove some serious dents to improve appearance, but will always have the scars of use/misuse to show it's age. 
I had to overcome a problem with reassembly due to not being able to solder some internal joints and ensure they held in the right place and soldered/sealed together.
So I hard soldered some parts and so able to ensure it all went ok when 'Closing up' the 5 other soft soldered parts/joints all at the same time .
The bronze 3/8" dia ball is a replacement, as the original steel one looked more like a large lump of weld spatter. So I lapped the new one to it's seat for a good non-return seal.
New leather washers made for the plunger and filler-
 
 
 
As usual, the end cap and threaded section was missing, so I reproduced a nozzle and cap. The cap having a leather pad in it to seal it when screwed on.
 

 
After several flushes with acid, soapy water and dried out, it had the plunger sealing washer greased, piston oiled/primed and filled.
No leaks and can now deliver a single drop or stream under pressure at any angle. The fine nozzle can displace the small ball in oil nipples to lubricate, rather than have a cumbersome Grease gun type nozzle which is useless in confined places on machines.
 

 
So that's the Lucas Oiler No 36 given a new life and will have a copper 'Holster' to safely stow it on the Lathe or Mill in the workshop.
 

Good to hear they let him out. Hopefully based on  overall improvement and not on parole!!. Please pass on my regards when possible Alan.
Regards

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

Really hoping he pulls through this and able to get back on the W Horses very soon. please pass on my best wishes to him/family.

Really hoping he pulls through this and able to get back on the W Horses very soon. please pass on my best wishes to him/family.

Really hoping he pulls through this and able to get back on the W Horses very soon. please pass on my best wishes to him/family.

Well done Nigel. An awesome building/workshop to turn out your awesome projects in   . As for condensation, looks like there is still a lot of moisture to remove before it's fully dry at this time of year.
Wish you many happy hours in it.
 
 

Well after 15 years my lease was up on my workshop and the powers that be won’t extend it, so what do I do? 2 choices realy, first one is retire and sit in my rocking chair pissing me knickers and dribbling until I snuff it , or start again,  we’ll it wasn’t rocket science and the decision was made. 😂



And 2.5 weeks later

Long time since I posted.      Norm, yes. Although since i said that, my chances of actually making them is diminishing. The wrist joints are a real issue now and holding up my progress on many things.
Prioritising this project has now brought it to nearly finished stage. Last week, it took 2 days to mask off the rear wheel sides and strakes (treads) to etch prime/paint the faces of the rims-
 

 
Need to dull off the front rims next
 

 

 
With this back together on wheels, I finished making the alternative drawbar for the Water Cart so it can be 'hitched up'.
Trial fit to check levels-
 

 
 Hoses and plumbing to do on this next.
 
Regards
  
 

Long time since I posted.      Norm, yes. Although since i said that, my chances of actually making them is diminishing. The wrist joints are a real issue now and holding up my progress on many things.
Prioritising this project has now brought it to nearly finished stage. Last week, it took 2 days to mask off the rear wheel sides and strakes (treads) to etch prime/paint the faces of the rims-
 

 
Need to dull off the front rims next
 

 

 
With this back together on wheels, I finished making the alternative drawbar for the Water Cart so it can be 'hitched up'.
Trial fit to check levels-
 

 
 Hoses and plumbing to do on this next.
 
Regards
  
 

Thought I'd just add an update, as it has been a while and only recently able to progress with this one.
It does not really fit in this forum section as a project. So just to say that I've got it nearly all back together.
When it is properly running, I'll add it to the 'Other Garden Machines' section