Anglo Traction

I've never seen one of these with a rope start on them before, and I think initially, I'll leave it off, and just use the crank handle. 
 
 The large triple groove pulley was very rusty, and it really didn't want to come off as you can see in the pics below.   After a little time with a hot wrench, it was off. 
 In the picture of the cylinder below, the pitted section is not actually the cylinder, its the combustion chamber. The piston stops about 1 inch before the top. You can see its had some water in it at some point, but the section the piston travels is still in fair shape, and should be fine. 
 The frost plug was rotted out of the bottom of the block, and the lip it sets against was almost gone as well.  I was able to set a new plug in there good, and tight, but I had to run JB Weld around the outside when done, to make sure it seals. Its not going to leak now, and with it being on the bottom, no one will ever see it once the engine is all back together. 
 
Matt

Hello all. I thought I'd share my most recently acquired project. Its an old International LB 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 hp stationary engine. I have been collection old air cooled engines for awhile now, but this is my first of this type engine. Its getting a full restoration.
 The engine wasn't in to bad a shape when I got it. No compression, but it wasn't stuck, and it was complete. Here are a couple pics of it before disassembly.  
 
Matt

Good to see your progress Norm. I was getting worried that you'll spend more than 2 years to finish this like me on my C-120   .
Black look's good. Would nice to also see the Motor Black and a bit of Silver perhaps?............or polished steel !-
 

 
Keep up the good work and piccies for Chris .

I understand your difficulties Iain, as I'm a 'Southpaw' (Leftie) as well, but try to use many things as a R/Handed person does. 
 
I've also decided to go over to Aspen on the infrequently used and small engine machines like Chainsaws & Brushcutters.
The Atco Sidewheel will run on it as well...... Still too expensive to run Garden Tractors on it. Would be good if they treated it as a special case and at least removed the Duty Charge on it to  reduce the cost and increase it's use.

Good to see your progress Norm. I was getting worried that you'll spend more than 2 years to finish this like me on my C-120   .
Black look's good. Would nice to also see the Motor Black and a bit of Silver perhaps?............or polished steel !-
 

 
Keep up the good work and piccies for Chris .

Richard,
 
like I said - just about within tolerance for what I'll be using it for.
 

 
It's not going to be worked hard, but does need to run properly and not haemorrhage oil. Either through drips or burning...

I picked the G14 up today and managed to miss the worst of the weather. The seller was a lovely guy and is interested in old equipment. I pointed him to this forum.
 
A couple of pictures of the G14
 

 

 
I then had my 7 year old lad helping me for the rest of the day so I was unable to get on with anything useful. He wanted to have some tractor time so I thought it would be good to pull a couple of the working tractors out for a line up as the G14 completes a advert type picture. Left to right is a G10, G12, the new G14, H16 and HT23. No G11 as OldBuzzard has all them and Chris has all the HT20's.
 

 
 
Iain
 
 
 

A few more bits painted or in the process of, today. Some photo's for The Showman's delectation.
 
Dash and ammeter panel fitted. Finger marks will be removed.
 

 
Fender cleaned up.
 

 
Underneath of fender with two coats of red oxide and drying in the sun.
 
 

Some of you may remember me acquiring the engine for bendy from a Toro greensmaster mower at Mallory park a year ago. It was well used and cheap at £50...
It started and runs ok, but it's clear it needs some attention due to the oil burned and dripped on the floor.
When I pulled the head last year it looked like this!

And upon changing the oil I got this!

So armed with the knowledge it runs ok, but is a little tired I ordered a rebuild kit from the states. It was better value than from the UK - even including shipping and tax. I basically got everything but the valves.
So here's the thread, with the engine starting on the bench

With tinwork and ancillaries removed

Flywheel removed - after make a small puller

And head.... It's not got any better since I last checked!

Here you go,
First instalment
The piston and rings look reasonable, but closer inspection shows heavy scoring and erosion due to being coked up.
I thought it was oil ring stuck to the plug, but apparently not.

From the bottom end, some light scoring on the big end journal. It's 4 thou out of round and 6 thou out at its maximum. Just within acceptable tolerances for what I'll be using it for.
Pic shows cam to left and balance gear to right, which will be coming out. I dislike the rattle from it!

Starter on my original 12hp Kohler in my '72' Raider 12 had begun to squeal more and more last year, so having built a spare Starter from 2 really iffy ones, I pulled the squealy one to inspect it and fitted the new spare to test it etc. 
The spare works beautifully........So last night I got around to tearing into this one to cure the problem and give it a clean up-

 
No sign of broken Magnets this time for a change, just a few loose flakes, Carbon dust and light rust areas from trapped condensate-

 
So generally all in pretty good nick really, note the date stamp on this American Bosch Motor (Dec 20th 1971).
 
The cause of the squeal I suspect was the Thrust washer that had been worn by the hard stop ring which has a gap and sharp edges . This washer takes a lot of pressure when the Motor is energised and combined with the dry Carbon dust and bare metal faces, starts the noises etc. Close up of the Stop Ring, Shaft bearing face and the 0.0205" (0.52mm) thick thrust washer-
 

The 'Cure' I hope will be the addition of another thrust washer of same thickness. I found just the right size/type in my box of bits and the Washer came from my fully rebuilt engine now in my C-120, when I scrapped the Balance Gears in it, I kept the spacers, washers and Snap Rings. All I had to do was increase the bore of it by 0.003" to just fit over the Shaft bearing diameter face with no slack-

 
So the new washer will fit on first followed by the old one and the same original way around. With the bearing plate in place un-lubricated and with hard pressure on it, the shaft rotates with no friction resistance at all, but will apply a small amount of High pressure Copper grease between them.
All the Brushes etc cleaned up nice and very little wear-

 
Commutator segments had the usual Carbon Glaze, so cleaned off with the shaft mounted in the Lathe chuck at slow speed, then a final air blast to get the dust out -

 
Body internals all clean now and found the magnets still have makers ink stamp on them-

 
I shall strip the old paint and decals off and give it a repaint and new decals before it goes back on the Engine.
 
So if you haven't been inside one of these before, don't junk it and look for another when it misbehaves........... Give it a Refurb birthday and a new lease of life. Hope this helps.

Made some progress, but not as far as I would have liked, so here's an update and few pics as well.
Just to go back to what the Clutch linkage looked like at the start with the corrosion and the iffy cable routing etc., we had something that looked like this (pics should enlarge if clicked on) -
 

 
So as seen/mentioned in an earlier update, I was not happy with the corrosion after a clean up, so I reproduced new parts to correct spec and added a few improvements, many parts are now back to an unworn condition, together with the addition of a bronze bushing for the Rod, a stainless Cable Clip made/fitted to the top of the Clutch Fork, keeping it clear of moving parts and now looks like this-
 
 
 
The sheared stud/nut on the Clutch lever bracket, which used to look like this and shows the old iffy Throttle Cable routing-
 

 
All refurbished and repaired, but a re-route of the throttle cable is required and now looks like this-
 

 
Handlebars etc. finished and assembled, also shows replacement 'Barrel' style Grips. Lowering the Handlebars to the operating angle will give me the length and best route for the Cable-
 

 
I'll probably have to dismantle,then remove the Cylinder because it appears the blades will fowl the Bottom Blade adjusters  .
It could be that the finished Cylinder diameter is greater than the 6. 1/8" diameter I specified, and so will not allow the adjuster plates to move far enough back away from the knives-
 

 
Add this problem to some Auction site purchase(s) received this week not being 'as described'  , my progress is to be desired.
Never mind, it will take as long as it takes. Hopefully another update next week.    
 
 
  
 
        

Thanks Mark.
 
 
 
Were never too old to learn Chris
 
 
 
Thanks Richard.. It's all guess work really
 
An update for you chaps..
 
Both front wheels are now re centered and fully welded up... Here's the second wheel.
 

 

 
 
And now onto something new for me.. Making a front end that is not only strong, handles and steers well, but also has brakes..
 
As you will of seen in my last update I toyed with the brakes idea, yesterday was the day to see if I could make it work..
But rather than cutting and turning steel I made a fake brake disc from scrap ally just to see what could be made to fit.. The disc is 5" diameter and 4mm thick..
 

 
 
Time to dig out a bit of history..    One of the twin caliper mounting plates..
 

 
 
And the "Stig Double pumper" both of which were part of my 6X6's ill fated brake steer system..
 

 
 
It's a tight, but a Qwakasaki Gpz305 caliper will just about fit in the wheel rim..
 

 
 
Even better is I can get the steering pivot points rather close to the wheel, the bottom one might even fit inside the wheel which will make for better steering
If you think of this wheel as the left side with the caliper at the rear inside and the ruler being the pivot point you will get the idea..
 

 
 
So now I know my brake idea can be made to fit I need a way of mounting the brake disc to the inside of the wheel hub...
Lot's of measuring and scribbling later, a plan...
 

 
 
Off cut's of steel are always handy to have about the place
 

 
 
The start of the first wheel hub brake adapter thingy.... And this Gent's brings the build up to date..
 

Long time since I visited the forum (last year!!). Hope all are ok etc. I'm adapting to a few shortfalls in physical health (thanks Ian/Norm for your concern).
Still looking forward to the chance of spending time down in the Workshop when weather warms up.
Have been able to do a few little fiddly bits recently though.
 
Back in Post number #34 on page 2 of this 'Topic', I had a few jobs to finish on the Carb. A new Strangler (choke) Rod has been made up from 1/8" stainless steel and a 'Lift Knob' formed on the top. I also added a fibre washer and spring to prevent vibration wear and seal from dirt etc
The 2 Filter Body retaining screws also made.-
 

 
Made up a new Throttle Cable, turning up some new nipples now that I've fixed the required length and route, the Villiers Throttle Lever also fully refurbed, but had to replace the Chromed Top Screw.
Original Cable Ties (2) shown just in top left of next pic will be re used-.
 

 
Other little tinkering bits I'm managing to do are Fuel Tap(s).
The Fuel Tap on this mower is the Lever turn type (bottom in next pic). I thought I'd add a bronze Mesh screen filter (149 microns) like the one I made and fitted to the (1954) Ewarts Tap (right in pic) I'm refurbishing , but may make a 'Drop In' one that sits inside the Tank Filler neck.
The other (1964 chrome) Ewarts Tap on the left of pic is finished and from the Seagull Outboard and needed a new Brass Plunger made before fitting a new Cork on it-.  
 

 
Here's hoping we have a good Spring 'n' Summer   .  Lots to do, Places to go, People to see.
      

Some Fab Fabbing work from a fine 'Fabber' Ian  . Great work and progress .

Impressive example of your work Nigel. Like the creative panel work. The style reminds me of the Old WW2 David Brown Aircraft towing Tractors. 

Impressive example of your work Nigel. Like the creative panel work. The style reminds me of the Old WW2 David Brown Aircraft towing Tractors. 

Welcome back Richard.

glad you're back Richard, and as always awesome work on the parts

Thanks guys, finished the upper dash panel too. It's a lot easier than painting and lettering
Plus I can change the words...

Hello I picked this red small tractor up on sunday morning a none runner at the moment watch this space I do have all the parts  

Long time since I visited the forum (last year!!). Hope all are ok etc. I'm adapting to a few shortfalls in physical health (thanks Ian/Norm for your concern).
Still looking forward to the chance of spending time down in the Workshop when weather warms up.
Have been able to do a few little fiddly bits recently though.
 
Back in Post number #34 on page 2 of this 'Topic', I had a few jobs to finish on the Carb. A new Strangler (choke) Rod has been made up from 1/8" stainless steel and a 'Lift Knob' formed on the top. I also added a fibre washer and spring to prevent vibration wear and seal from dirt etc
The 2 Filter Body retaining screws also made.-
 

 
Made up a new Throttle Cable, turning up some new nipples now that I've fixed the required length and route, the Villiers Throttle Lever also fully refurbed, but had to replace the Chromed Top Screw.
Original Cable Ties (2) shown just in top left of next pic will be re used-.
 

 
Other little tinkering bits I'm managing to do are Fuel Tap(s).
The Fuel Tap on this mower is the Lever turn type (bottom in next pic). I thought I'd add a bronze Mesh screen filter (149 microns) like the one I made and fitted to the (1954) Ewarts Tap (right in pic) I'm refurbishing , but may make a 'Drop In' one that sits inside the Tank Filler neck.
The other (1964 chrome) Ewarts Tap on the left of pic is finished and from the Seagull Outboard and needed a new Brass Plunger made before fitting a new Cork on it-.  
 

 
Here's hoping we have a good Spring 'n' Summer   .  Lots to do, Places to go, People to see.
      

Courtesy of Usedtoolman
 
I finally finished the project. Got the foot pegs added and got the engine squared away. I rode it last night. It was a once in a lifetime experience. Believe me, once was enough for someone my age!! It is fast and the steering is quick.

Courtesy of Webhead

Sounds as though you may have cracked it but with any unknown engine I believe that time spent making sure that the valve condition and clearance, is time well sent. Short of a worn bore and piston valve condition is fundamental to a sweet running engine ; if the valves are not right no amount of tinkering with ignition and carburettor will achieve a permanent cure.
Also don't rely on a compression test as an indication of valve condition on an engine with automatic decompression to aid starting. The only reliable non-invasive test is with a leak down tester - not usually found outside a professional workshop.
For the time spent doing a valve job and probably a head gasket you will have sound foundations on which to fine tune carburettor and ignition.