Anglo Traction

Can’t believe its  been 18 years ago this  month that I bought my first Wheelhorse, have got some good memories and I’ve still got it.

the more I see, the more I'm astounded!  such awesome engineering!

Superb work, Richard.

Fantastic detail well done.

Thanks Alan, been very impressed with your work as well......  I'm glad to have been able to get back into this project.
 
Haven't been able to spend much time in the workshop as it's been too cold lately. Can't justify heating it. The Engine has been reduced to a pile of bits now. Lots of parts and jobs to do while reassembling and prepping for paint etc and seemingly relentless additions to the Jobs List.
I'm going to join a Model Engineering Club so I can have their Inspectors check the already certified Boiler over while it is in this condition-
   
 
I would prefer to have this with a Current Certificate when completed in addition to the original Boiler Certificate.
 
Today, I finished drilling and tapping the last of the tiny holes in the Cylinder Block for (18) 14BA Screws for the Insulation Cover Plate. I only had Cheese Head Screws and so had to machine each one down to a rough Round Head shape to finish properly when I finally fit them-

 
I'm only too pleased to have been able to do all the machining work on this accurately, and Drilling, Tapping etc without breaking a Drill or Tap. Just a bit of filing and shaping to finish and it will be ready to fit onto the Boiler.   

Well, It's a bit quiet here again. so I'll add an update in the hope someone will be along later and may want to view something recently posted. Would be sorry to see this forum close.
Switched my attention over to the Engine where, for longer than I had planned, have been making tiny bits I'd delayed until I began the final assembly.
Loads of preparation before I could dodge the weather conditions and get the etch primer on during the good still, dry days since last September.
Tested the water pump and all's well, so fitted to it's permanent location-
 

 
Did some micro milling on the pump's eccentric sheave using a 1/16" diameter Slot Drill to reflect the casting style of the full size. 
Finished the motion work at the cylinder end and has all the full size detail design specification incorporated-
 

 
The Back Plate carrying the regulator lever and the gear selector now has a number plaque fitted.
8mm between the fixings and the numbers bent to shape with tweezers from tinned fuse wire,  sweated into a bed of solder in the recess of the plaque and painted.
The numbers relate to the boiler's certification reference numbers-
 
 
 
I shall be dulling off all the bright polished steel bits using the same process as in the Water Cart wheel rim faces.
The pump eccentric strap and rod (2nd pic) have been treated and look much more realistic in this scale.
I have managed to get some top coat onto the Tender/Manstand and a few other parts today, so I hope I can maintain the progress rate.
 
Regards. 
 

Well, It's a bit quiet here again. so I'll add an update in the hope someone will be along later and may want to view something recently posted. Would be sorry to see this forum close.
Switched my attention over to the Engine where, for longer than I had planned, have been making tiny bits I'd delayed until I began the final assembly.
Loads of preparation before I could dodge the weather conditions and get the etch primer on during the good still, dry days since last September.
Tested the water pump and all's well, so fitted to it's permanent location-
 

 
Did some micro milling on the pump's eccentric sheave using a 1/16" diameter Slot Drill to reflect the casting style of the full size. 
Finished the motion work at the cylinder end and has all the full size detail design specification incorporated-
 

 
The Back Plate carrying the regulator lever and the gear selector now has a number plaque fitted.
8mm between the fixings and the numbers bent to shape with tweezers from tinned fuse wire,  sweated into a bed of solder in the recess of the plaque and painted.
The numbers relate to the boiler's certification reference numbers-
 
 
 
I shall be dulling off all the bright polished steel bits using the same process as in the Water Cart wheel rim faces.
The pump eccentric strap and rod (2nd pic) have been treated and look much more realistic in this scale.
I have managed to get some top coat onto the Tender/Manstand and a few other parts today, so I hope I can maintain the progress rate.
 
Regards. 
 

As you say Richard, very quiet on here just now.  As to your latest photo's and detail work.  .

More fantastic work Richard 

Bloody Fantastic Richard 👍👍

Thanks gents. 
                        Hope all are dodging the virus and keeping sane.
 
Hi Norm, yeah, long wait ,  I've decided not to go down that route. To get a decent 1/12th example, it's about a £100.
It will be stand alone with all the fittings options, or attached to the Engine, which would make the shafts redundant and were only really an exercise for me initially.
                       
Not much to show for in over a month what with the cold temps.
Geared up ready the moment the temp gets above 10c and low humidity to carry on painting this and the Engine.
Sorted the issue of dulling off the steel rim faces, well it will do-
 
9
 
As I had already painted the wheels, I used a homemade type of 'Q' tip loaded with 37% Sulphuric acid and continually rotated the wheel to keep the applied acid even.
Took 5 mins each wheel, then clean off and neutralised. Did not affect the paint and will get a coat of matt lacquer over the whole wheel(s).
I should really paint the shafts and props the same as the body, but will leave them for now.
 

 
Spray bar and connections to finish.  Hoses to make next when the materials arrive. 
 

Thanks gents. 
                        Hope all are dodging the virus and keeping sane.
 
Hi Norm, yeah, long wait ,  I've decided not to go down that route. To get a decent 1/12th example, it's about a £100.
It will be stand alone with all the fittings options, or attached to the Engine, which would make the shafts redundant and were only really an exercise for me initially.
                       
Not much to show for in over a month what with the cold temps.
Geared up ready the moment the temp gets above 10c and low humidity to carry on painting this and the Engine.
Sorted the issue of dulling off the steel rim faces, well it will do-
 
9
 
As I had already painted the wheels, I used a homemade type of 'Q' tip loaded with 37% Sulphuric acid and continually rotated the wheel to keep the applied acid even.
Took 5 mins each wheel, then clean off and neutralised. Did not affect the paint and will get a coat of matt lacquer over the whole wheel(s).
I should really paint the shafts and props the same as the body, but will leave them for now.
 

 
Spray bar and connections to finish.  Hoses to make next when the materials arrive. 
 

Thanks gents. 
                        Hope all are dodging the virus and keeping sane.
 
Hi Norm, yeah, long wait ,  I've decided not to go down that route. To get a decent 1/12th example, it's about a £100.
It will be stand alone with all the fittings options, or attached to the Engine, which would make the shafts redundant and were only really an exercise for me initially.
                       
Not much to show for in over a month what with the cold temps.
Geared up ready the moment the temp gets above 10c and low humidity to carry on painting this and the Engine.
Sorted the issue of dulling off the steel rim faces, well it will do-
 
9
 
As I had already painted the wheels, I used a homemade type of 'Q' tip loaded with 37% Sulphuric acid and continually rotated the wheel to keep the applied acid even.
Took 5 mins each wheel, then clean off and neutralised. Did not affect the paint and will get a coat of matt lacquer over the whole wheel(s).
I should really paint the shafts and props the same as the body, but will leave them for now.
 

 
Spray bar and connections to finish.  Hoses to make next when the materials arrive. 
 

Thanks gents. 
                        Hope all are dodging the virus and keeping sane.
 
Hi Norm, yeah, long wait ,  I've decided not to go down that route. To get a decent 1/12th example, it's about a £100.
It will be stand alone with all the fittings options, or attached to the Engine, which would make the shafts redundant and were only really an exercise for me initially.
                       
Not much to show for in over a month what with the cold temps.
Geared up ready the moment the temp gets above 10c and low humidity to carry on painting this and the Engine.
Sorted the issue of dulling off the steel rim faces, well it will do-
 
9
 
As I had already painted the wheels, I used a homemade type of 'Q' tip loaded with 37% Sulphuric acid and continually rotated the wheel to keep the applied acid even.
Took 5 mins each wheel, then clean off and neutralised. Did not affect the paint and will get a coat of matt lacquer over the whole wheel(s).
I should really paint the shafts and props the same as the body, but will leave them for now.
 

 
Spray bar and connections to finish.  Hoses to make next when the materials arrive. 
 

Once again Richard. 

Beautiful job, Richard.
 
 I'm interested to see how you do the horse.

I too am most impressed with the detail involved in this project, I didn't quite realise how small things were until I looked up 12BA in my wee thread guide to find it only goes as far as 10BA and that IS small.
I'm afraid my hands would not be steady enough to do half of this.

I bought a basic Martek Drill Sharpener back in 1986, attaches to an electric drill and fixed into a drill holder back in that period. Only covered bits from 1/8" upwards. Still have it, but not used much.
I tend to dispose of, or sharpen by hand, any bits under 1/8" and use only for wood after. Although I was successful in hand sharpening 2 off 1/32" drill bits after I broke them while working on my latest project.
To be on the safe side, I started the hole with a good one, then followed up with the sharpened one and went fine with no issues.
Winter 'clips my wings' with projects due cold workshop and other priorities. Like you're having to do, I do much of small work on the table in the warmer conditions. 
The other thing keeping me busy is learning the secrets of a different OS from Windows to MacBook Pro after 15 years using Microsoft.    

I'm always grateful Alan and thanks. If the Topic/thread provides interest and something to read/look at being produced, then it has served it's purpose.
Interests vary and is always good to see them all in material forms such as on this Forum, irrespective of varying skill levels and subjects.
 
 
Reckon you're right Norm. They are obscured by the wheels. Only needed a few thousands of an inch variation on the flatness of the retaining plate while heating up for the lettering to be able to shift.
 
 
Humbled John. Thanks. Learned to love the qualities of metals and lucky to have lots of patience. Things take me a long time to do, what with learning as I go.
A project to me is loads of smaller projects which combine to make a finished one,  hence the slow pace. Happy with the progress and the finished item is in sight
Regards
 
Well I somehow endured the low temperatures and managed to get some colour on this Water Cart. Matt finish is important as it seems to improve the appearance of a model this size.
I had to use 2 different primers, one on the metal parts and another on the wood. Top coat went on fine with only a few undesirable bits in it which were easy to remove after.
I used my 45 year old Badger 200 Airbrush, which had done many Murals on Car and Van panels back in the 1970s and still going strong-
 
 
 
Once dry, I was able to pick out the raised lettering in yellow, a challenge with a tiny 6 bristled sable brush and an Eye Glass, while holding my breath to keep my hand steady-
 

 
Currently a partial assembly to keep the bits together and dust free-
 

 
Colour variations are due to available light, but the last image is what the colour is by eye. Valve internal parts now fitted. Matt varnish for top coat is on order.
Currently dulling off the shiny wheel rims using acid to etch the finish.
Regards
 

I bought a basic Martek Drill Sharpener back in 1986, attaches to an electric drill and fixed into a drill holder back in that period. Only covered bits from 1/8" upwards. Still have it, but not used much.
I tend to dispose of, or sharpen by hand, any bits under 1/8" and use only for wood after. Although I was successful in hand sharpening 2 off 1/32" drill bits after I broke them while working on my latest project.
To be on the safe side, I started the hole with a good one, then followed up with the sharpened one and went fine with no issues.
Winter 'clips my wings' with projects due cold workshop and other priorities. Like you're having to do, I do much of small work on the table in the warmer conditions. 
The other thing keeping me busy is learning the secrets of a different OS from Windows to MacBook Pro after 15 years using Microsoft.    

Its that time of year to do a bit of maintenance on the E tank as all the time its quietly removing rust the anodes are being eaten away - so today was the day.
As you will see, they've been hard at work and it was time to put some old gang mower and triple bottom blades to good use.
 

With the under dash wiring done I could now finish the carpeting of the bulkhead, side panels and floor.
When I initially started in 2006 I removed the gearbox cover which was made of moulded hard rubber and had broken in 3 pieces but I was going to make a mould from it and do one in fibreglass but in the meantime it had fallen off a shelf and was now in a hundred pieces. A modified one was made from aluminium and made it a lot easier to carpet.


The vinyl edging around the carpeting is wider than I would have liked but the rubber backing just cracks and the carpet splits if you sew too close to the edge, I didn't have this trouble with the hessian backed stuff I used on the Carlton.
The bulkhead



and the side panels with air conditioning facility - no fuses required!



then renovated front seats fitted



The new front brake cylinders and shoes along with the new hubs and bearings were next



The tyres were all different makes and sizes and well over 50 years old so new 5.50 x 16 Blockley tyres tubes and tube protectors were ordered, the wheels sand blasted and powder coated to prevent damaging the new tubes.
The original colour had been cream then repainted yellow and I couldn't decide whether to go black to match the body, green to match the interior but in the end decided to go with silver.

Not far to go now but we still have the engine saga.


  

I don't think I'd worry about the letters that have moved, Richard. Doubt anyone will notice if you don't tell them.

I'm running out of suitable complimentary words Richard. 

Hello all, and thanks for the positive comments. Finally got to a point where I could get the tank primed during a dry and low humidity weather window.
Had been busy making the (tiny) tank lid furniture out of mainly Nickel Silver.
The latch bolts are 3/64" (1.2mm) dia silver steel with 1/16" (1.56mm) stainless balls brazed on and fixed with 1/32"(0.8mm)rivets-
 
  
 
Next job is permanently fix the woodwork to the tank and finish ready for paint
Not completely successful with the soldered lettering, as a couple had moved slightly in the process...never mind!, just glad to get past this stage-
 

 
I really need good, dry painting weather now, as I have to paint and assemble this and the T/Engine to fix the dimensions for the towing bar frame for the Water Cart.
 
Regards.