Stormin 4,458 #26 Posted December 23, 2016 My mate Dunc called round today. So into the workshop we disappeared. Between us, we finally worked out where and how the connecting rod fitted. From throttle butterfly to governor arm. There is a very light spring over this particular rod. Unfortunately one end is broken off. Something to replace at a later date. The engine didn't want to start. Not even a cough. So with Dunc squirting petrol into the carb and me operating the pull start, we got it going. But the only way to keep it going, was to keep squirting petrol in. Evidently not lifting fuel from the tank. After Dunc had left, I decided to take the carb off. Only three little cross head screws hold it on. Simples! Nope! Those three screws had been in there for forty years most likely. One did unscrew, but the other two needed assistance. From a small pair off mole grips for one. Mole grips, a small chisel and hammer for the other. I think three new screws will be on the things for the future list. I found with the carb off, the filter at the bottom of the fuel pickup pipe was covered with a film of dried dirt. This came of easily with a light brushing with a sued shoe brush. I was a bit leary of removing the tube completely, but I could blow down it and also the shorter tube next to it. That I assume is a return pipe. With everything back together, I tried running the engine again. Sorry to say the result was the same. Tomorrow when I get thrown out, so swmbo can get things ready for the Christmas Eve invasion of the tribe, I will have a look at the diaphragm. 1 DougC reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nigel 1,876 #27 Posted December 23, 2016 It will be the diaphragm norm 100% Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 1,016 #28 Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) As Nigel says, the diaphragm should be replaced (270026) be careful with the Spring and Pad Washer that mates up to it. The Tubes with Mesh Screens on are technically both Fuel Pick ups. The Long one picks up fuel from near the bottom of the Tank and drops it into the Internal Fuel Bowl. (it overflows back into the Tank over the edge of the Bowl) The Short one sits in the Internal Fuel Bowl in the Tank which supplies the Carb, In order to avoid the long job of trying to get fuel up the long pipe to the Pump, you need to fill the Tank so the Internal Fuel Bowl fills. Edit...........Shorter distance for the Intake Vacuum to lift the Fuel ......... I originally said wrongly that the Pump Diaphragm lifts it The Long Pipe might well be of Brass? and not advisable to attempt removal, if Brass, the Screen at the bottom of it will pull off and you need to make sure all of the fuel tubes and capillaries in the Pump body are super clean. The faces of the Pump where the diaphragm fits must be smooth and the screws done up in a staggered sequence. The Short Tube is usually Nylon and is replaceable (push in) if the mesh is rotted. Should have Hexagon base to use a socket on it to twist it out. Suspect your Throttle Rod return Spring is discontinued, so will only be replaced by a used item. Edited December 24, 2016 by Anglo Traction error correction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #29 Posted December 23, 2016 Thanks for that, Richard. Never had anything to do with B&S fuel systems. Before I start pulling things apart, I'll try filling the tank. Only 1/2 filled it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #30 Posted December 24, 2016 This morning I filled the tank as Richard suggested. Billy Goat fired up at the third pull and kept running. Can't half fire things out. Put a rag in front of it and didn't see it come out. Stopped the engine and felt around underneath. No rag? Not surprising, as it was lying about 8ft away across the workshop. On the down side, I found a petrol leak. Removed the tank and there is a small pin hole in the back, halfway up. A couple of more suspect places as well. I'll see about having a go at soldering them up next week. Any other suggestions anyone? 1 DougC reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #31 Posted December 24, 2016 JB weld has always worked for me and is much easier than trying to get solder or braze to take. 1 DougC reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #32 Posted December 24, 2016 Where from, Rhys? Somewhere like Thomas Grahams in Carlisle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougC 63 #33 Posted December 24, 2016 5 hours ago, Rocboni said: JB weld has always worked for me and is much easier than trying to get solder or braze to take. I agree with using the JB weld. I have used it on my '56 Ford 860 ag tractors gas tank in several places that were leaking and it's still holding over 20 years later. Clean the area, apply the product and wait 24 hours for it to completely cure out and fill up the tank. You will have a big smile, dry tank and tour wallet will be happy as well....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slf-uk 914 #34 Posted December 24, 2016 I am really enjoying reading the progress on this and I'm learning lots along the way. Unfortunately I don't have any words of wisdom to offer. Iain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nigel 1,876 #35 Posted December 24, 2016 Have you got the collector bag Norm, cos a good one is as rare as rocking horse s--t the last billy goat we had in did have a good one, I could not sell the billy goat but I got mega bucks for the bag Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #36 Posted December 24, 2016 No bag, Nigel but several ideas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #37 Posted December 25, 2016 23 hours ago, Stormin said: Where from, Rhys? Somewhere like Thomas Grahams in Carlisle? I've always got it locally from a motor factors, Thomas Graham may have it, but you'll get it on eBay if not. Clean the area with a grinder/wire brush, degrees and apply, I repaired an escort gearbox with it which got an axle stand through it (don't ask) and it lasted until the cam belt snapped 4 years later! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hpearce 40 #38 Posted December 25, 2016 Perhaps swmbo will make you a collector bag in return for you building her a studio 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #39 Posted December 25, 2016 What I'm thinking is making it to mount behind, in front or even alongside of a tractor, with a pipe/tube into a trailer. Bit like a forage harvester. 2 Alan and slf-uk reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #40 Posted December 25, 2016 16 minutes ago, Stormin said: What I'm thinking is making it to mount behind, in front or even alongside of a tractor, with a pipe/tube into a trailer. Bit like a forage harvester. Has it got enough power to blow material up the tube into a trailer? They normally have a big engine powered fan half way up do they not? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #41 Posted December 25, 2016 I'll experiment with some pipe/tube first. The distance it fired the rag was impressive. Be interesting to see the result with a 3 - 4 inch drainpipe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nigel 1,876 #42 Posted December 25, 2016 If I remember rightly you could fit a pipe on the front and then it worked like a vacuum cleaner Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #43 Posted December 25, 2016 You can. I've seen a video of one in use. 1 nigel reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #44 Posted December 27, 2016 Went to Carlisle yesterday to get some JB Weld. Stockist was shut. So down to B&Q and I found a two tube epoxy adhesive similar to Araldite. Back home and back of tank given a good clean and a wipe with white spirit. Followed by a good smear of adhesive and then insulating tape over that. It was then left over night. The tank was refitted this morning and filled with petrol. No immediate sign of leakage, so I started the engine. After half an hour of continuos running all still ok. While it was running I had a bit of a play. Throwing rags, bits of paper, coffee jar lids underneath it. I know one thing, it has plenty of umph. 2 S1g and nigel reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #45 Posted March 15, 2017 Had a play today. Rigged up a bit of pipe work. Worked quite well. Fired a rag out of the end. Took it onto the green which I'd given a topping yesterday. Didn't half shift the grass. Even the big lumps and the strips of the tractor wheels. When I had it running in the yard, it moved under it's own power. Jet propelled. 3 Ian, S1g and Alan reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #46 Posted March 15, 2017 Looking at the outlet pipe you could wear baggy trousers and collect the grass, don't forget to tuck the bottom of the legs in your socks 3 Alan, Stormin and Ian reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites