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Rear wheel weights are something I've been wanting for some time. Now and then various ideas have crossed my mind, but I've never got around to actually doing anything. Art, (Old Tankman), put up a post on some he'd made. That was the kick I needed. The other day I acquired a pair of rear discs/drums off a Land Rover Freelander, out off the scrap bin at my local Land Rover specialists. The disc fits nicely into the outer edge of the Wheel Horse rear wheel. Today, while visiting a local engineering workshop, I left with two of these pulleys. The pulleys also fit nicely into the inside of the wheels. If you look closely, you will see two small holes in the drum. There's actually four and they are pilot holes for bolt holes to fasten disc/drum to pulley. You can see the four corresponding punch marks in the pulley. They are now drilled and ready for bolting together. Next I drilled four more holes in the pulleys for studs to bolt the finished weights to the wheels. These were spot drilled using a spare wheel as a jig. They were then drilled for tapping out 10mm. Here I hit a problem. I've a fair collection of taps, UNC, BSF, UNF, Metric and BSP. Believe it or not, NO 10mm taps to be found.

Found some handle grips in the workshop, and fitted. Also fitted the blades. Just waiting on a few bolts and a belt and then itll be finished.

I can't help thinking when I see the photo's, of the hobby horses of the '50's. You sat on it and moved up and down. This moved the legs, which had wheels on and it moved forward.

Reminds me of a Trike! Great job Gareth!

Yes! And I'm not telling yet.

Something different, we like that...

Thanks Paul, its something a bit different for shows, should be at Newbury in October.

Looking great Gareth

Decals received from Machinery Decals today (Thanks Titch ) and fitted...

A bit more progress today. Managed to get the belt pulley on, also the belt guard and decal. The simple cantilever clutch was connected back up, with the operating lever getting a coat of paint. The final job for today was the depth foot, which was missing when purchased but there was one on the doner machine.

Not being smart, but looks like a rotor. To run tip top, both crankcase seals should probably be replaced. Be careful when taking these apart, there are many needle bearings that will start falling out. You are best doing it over a baking pan or Frisbee.