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Had another look at the rim today as to patching it up but it’s like tissue paper round the outer edge so i came up with an idea that was only going to cost some labour... Starting with a good rim, cut it in half and then cut the rusty one in half weld the two good half’s together.

This G14 has been stored outside many years before we got it and we left it outside too. Finally we found some covered storage space for it. It is a parts tractor but it is still good to have it covered

I've put filler round the joint and rubbed it down smooth should be ok

Ok Norm, I'm not the world's expert on wiring, but I got it right twice on WH rewires., I reckon if you have the right type of switch?, you have a constant live supply to the Solenoid through the switch when turned on, this constantly makes your starter turn, so the wire must be on the wrong blade on the back of the switch. At least the Solenoid is working ok. If you have no safety switches (Seat, PTO, Pedal), then the Red wire goes from the 'S' Blade on the back of the ignition Switch directly to the small terminal on the Solenoid. The Ammeter is showing - (minus) amps because the constantly running starter motor is drawing the current that would normally be recharging the battery. Check the Ammeter is correctly wired Pos & Neg though. Looking at your pics, I see an awful lot of red wires which will be very confusing to you if someone has messed about with the colour coding. Here is an amended diagram to reflect the absence of a primary safety switch (one left in to represent the PTO switch)- The 2 wires (shown dotted) from the Alternator (may be grey or purple) can be transposed on the Rectifier as the supply is AC. The output through the Orange wire to the Ign Switch is DC. Ignition Switch is earthed through it's body and is essential for the ammeter etc to work properly. Keep at it.

Instructions: Take your pants out of her pocketbook and put them on. just mess'n with ya! I have a home office upstairs so doing stuff like this isn't typically a problem. These are tiny small so it's not a problem so far. She can't stand the stink of gas and especially that old gas smell. Any solvent would be a big problem too but this citrus degreaser has opened up a whole new opportunity for me to work on stuff when I can. I don't typically ask for permission, just wait for the complaining to start and deal with then. So far so good with this stuff and she hasn't noticed a thing. Spraying them outside first works real good to dumb down the gas smell. It doesn't seem to affect the paint either so... The idiot that shipped the TT400 didn't drain the 40 year old gas out so the whole thing was covered in it from rolling around inside the bubble wrap during shipping. Can't believe the post office didn't flag it for hazardous material because the whole package stunk so bad. Sprayed it outside, gave it a quick wipe down and brought it in the house. She never noticed or said a thing and believe you me, she doesn't pass on ANY opportunity to complain! After treating that gas tank it doesn't stink anywhere near like it did before.

Found a cool original Kenco pump brochure with a photo of the O&R Model 61.

Hi Norm, You don't say what model it is, so I presume it's 1980/81 which uses a 3 position/5 pin 103990 Ign Switch. I've handed my C-120 Info on to Roly with the Tractor, but checked for comparison using parts list. This diagram should be identical for you to check yours- The solenoid may look non serviceable, but I only needs 4 rivets drilling out and replacing after a clean out. Covered it in my C-120/Raider update if you want a link?. Hope it helps. Edit - 103990 switch pins are marked- S- Safety Switch/ Sol Start. R- Rectifier. A- Accessories (lights). I - Igntion (poss via seat safety switch) . B - Battery/Ammeter .

Great work Chris, interesting seeing all this as i'm on with making a 654 in amongst other things!