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Just found your blog on Nichols generator. Almost gave up on finding anything on it. Cleaning out the old mans shop. Looks like it’s pretty clean unit. Compression seems real good, sucks my finger in hard. No gas storage in tank no cracks or bulging. No batteries in box but there is a small amount of scale from battery. I fix a lot of everything. From where sit I think it would run with small amount of clean out etc. can anyone give me an idea on what it’s worth? I’m retired and have to many other projects that come first. This unit been in shop as long I can remember. I’m sure it’s a 1 owner, I don’t remember ever seeing it run when I was a kid. Thanks for any feedback

This old school type Chicken Power has been in wind chime mode for a very long time. It was painted probably 5 or 6 years ago and just hanging around on wires. The engine is a very low hour and the recoil was already done, just needed a decal. It took longer to wipe off all of the dust LoL. Still needs some recoil screws but that's about it. Poor Terry always gets it from me about how long it takes so here ya go Terry, just teed it up for ya. Here's another too, been sanding the parts for that Bee Jay winch and that's the engine in the engine rebuild pics thread from 2015

hope this helps . and yes I'm an artist

It is a great tool Norm, for the price you need to get someone to go shopping for you No that is an idea Please stay safe and well in these strange times and we are looking forward to catching up with you both soon

Got a care package today It seems to be a glow plug set up not sure how to make it work. I'm working on how to set this up its all Greek to me. I'm going to do my best hope it works out. I think john has his wires crossed but maybe someone can help His instructions are not he best. The gray wire has no ware to go and the relay seems to be wired wrong David I think we may need your help

As long as we are to pretty much stay at home, I thought it would be a good time for a build thread on my Orline 13B. I've been tinkering with it since January, and finally got it running well, with a special Thanks for all the tips and advice from this forum. Here is how it looked when I brought it home, and after getting it cleaned up.

Amen to that! This forum is a blast and I look forward to checking it out daily, hourly sometimes, to see what everyone is working on and who has found a cool engine or tool. The friends and experiences are what it’s all about! It’s been fun having you back in action too! Fun to also see a few others like Fishnuts joining the fun...

Well, at least something will be glowing.

A pair of Chip-A-Saw or Bunyan's, the O&R instruction decal position/rotation differs on these. David

But that would make the wires melt before the plug glows I need to get a third opinion. now your all pulling my chain

Can't help thinking he could have saved it for Apr 1st. David

Obviously we need an engine with a much stronger spark to try that continuity test again! Don't make me ask you to use your welder

Confirmed it uses a type 26-53 muffler screw, other standard parts not required. David

Mine is the later version with the Series 13B engine. The air cleaner uses a clip to hold it in place on this one, note the condition of the tank, corrosion caused by lazy user not cleaning the chippings after use, tree sap is acidic. David

No idea, how is it connected on the back? David

IMO the tilted decal looks funny if there's a bird decal because that is always oriented with the recoil. Without the bird decal, the recoil decal looks better tilted to vertical. Not 100 % sure if mine was original or not but those recoil covers have a factory hole for the switch so I believe it's original because the hole didn't appear to be just drilled out, the paint was original and the decal was oriented with the bird decal. Either way is fine so doing it to your preference is the best way to do it. Maybe the un-branded saw above is the Bunyan which tilted the decal and the Chip A Saw had it oriented with the recoil as I see Terry has his the same

The red and white wire is contented to the plug but when you pull the cord it just shocks me the wiring is not rite it should run with out all the shocking going on. I thing your not telling me something Are you sure the wiring is hooked up the way it should be? I think someone pulling my chain

You always need to test the engine BEFORE converting to a glow plug. 1)Connect the red wire to the engine's spark plug wire 2)Since this will probably be used for a boat you'll need just a little water so use the toilet water and run a wire from the yellow into the toilet water 3) It will need ammonia to complete the test circuit so pee in the toilet but do it in conjunction with #4 4) to test continuity give the pull cord on the engine a viscous yank 5)If no continuity jump the red to the yellow and try again Please let us know the results of testing so we can figure out the rest.

Do you get commission for advertising Joseph. ?

Looks a handy piece of kit, Joseph. Unfortunately Lidl is out of bounds for me for now.

Easily, the worst part of this whole saw is the process you have to go through to access even simple things that are in view! And some fasteners are really hard to get at. This shows a straight blade screwdriver in a Phillips head screw just to get it started most of the way. UGH! So, after figuring all this out and obtaining a nice spark, I had to decrease the points gap to about .018", because it seemed like it wanted to start, but just couldn't take off and run. Basically advancing the timing got it to run quite well. Next, was finishing the paint for the rest of the parts, and sharpen the 3/8's chain. Off to the wood pile for some cuts and pictures.

So had to split this tank, and had quite a time getting the piston out of the oiler bore. Someone must have used varnish instead of bar oil in this thing. Put a new filter and internal line on this one too, after the picture. You can see where the grease escaped the cavity here too. I used Yamabond and cleaned the surfaces with acetone before assembly. It seems to hold this time thankfully. Next step was to track down the no spark issue, which led to a pinched wire under the flywheel housing. Repaired it with liquid electrical tape and cleaned and reset the points. Actually, a couple of times, since I put the points plunger in backwards! When checking the flywheel side seal I noticed the original didn't seal to either the crankshaft, or the outside of the retainer. A bearing and hydraulic repair shop had an O-ring that seems to do the job.

Sent my man in to get one but none in stock.