Leaderboard

Found my old Spedeworth race license, i think the photo is a bit out of date now.

Blimey mate that's a blast from the past !! Great bit of history though

If the exhaust collector will not move, the cylinder will need to be unscrewed. But make sure the piston is free to move before trying this, as the con-rod will break if the piston is stuck. The engine maintenance manual gives details on making a cylinder removal tool. The instructions given are to make it from a piece of flat steel 3/16" thick & 1" square, with a hole drilled in the middle for using a screwdriver as a "T" handle. I made one from a piece of steel & bar found in a box of offcuts & salvaged bits in the shed. I didn't bother to make it 1" square though, I only squared up the ends and drilled the hole for the bar. If the cylinder is very tight I usually use a vice to hold the engine crankcase (use wood or similar to protect the engine from the vice jaws) and use an adjustable spanner to turn the tool. You will probably need to replace the gaskets if you remove the cylinder to prevent leaks. Also make sure that the slot in the top of the cylinder lines up with the crankshaft or is at 90 degrees to the crankshaft when reassembling. Here is a picture of the cylinder removal tool I made. David

Bet that bring back memories Chris!

That's a great haul Harry with all those attachments. What are your plans for the MM?

This is an ED300 charging set, I believe it was built by BSA under licence from Johnson.The previous owner told me that it was from WW2, and had been on a fire launch which was on Belfast Lough. When I got it,there was no compression and no spark.I took the head off to find a stuck exhaust valve, corroded valve seats, and a stuck top compression ring.These are now freed off and valve seats recut and valves ground in. Now have some compression .The points required cleaning and a replacement ht lead restored a healthy blue spark . I am now working my through the dynamo end, it starts off a battery and gives some output.If anybody knows where I can get a choke assy for this engine.Please let me know

Next is the other half of the crank, reed valve and induction sector. *Something I missed documenting is there is also a seal inside the reed valve part. Just past the bearing race. It's the same exact seal as the induction part seal The thin paper gasket which goes onto the reed valve is difficult to get on without breaking it. I found that soaking it in the same fuel mix to run these engines softens it up enough to get it on. Next is the induction sector with gasket was installed. Use screws to hold it in place. This is a good time to install a new points push rod seal too.