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Nice shed but it depends how you rate the security risk but it looks as though the door hardware is just screwed on. Not easy to see but are those hinges and the bolt secure? One coach bolt through each side of each hinge in place of a screw and similar for each side of the bolt . Long enough to go right through with decent washers and nuts on the inside. Ideally a bolt and padlock top and bottom.

Carpet in and extra door furniture on (door bolts etc )so its nice and secure First couple of machines in, not in their final storage places yet...

A lower than usual turnout for the Meet and Greet today which was disappointing, however those that did bother put on a good little display, so many thanks gents and ladies who did turn up. Here's some photos. including some from the Museum of Gardening that is at the Garden Centre we meet at...

To remove carbon, I use an old 6" rule very carefully. Also a piece of brass strip. I finish off with Scotch Bright or wire wool. For the outside, wire brush, scraper and plenty of patience.

Firstly, don't throw the old carb away. I presume this is for a 16hp K341 or Magnum?. The Carb in your pic looks aftermarket. The original was either a Kohler with #30 in raised letters in the casting above the venturi aperture when looking through past the Choke plate. Or it is/was a Walbro. Both have different settings and the later ones from the 80s had fixed Main/High speed needle jets. I have no experience with those Chinese Knockoffs, but have heard different opinions and experiences. Is that Carb specifically for a 16hp? or a generic one which states it fits all?. If the Needles actually adjust the mixtures, then the top one is the high speed/main, the angled side needle is the Idle mixture. Top screw is the Idle Speed adjuster. Need to know what your engine model, spec and serial number is to establish correct needle settings. Will probably need to guess or take an average of the preliminary settings for a chinese one. As for the Head Gasket, the quoted genuine Kohler ones are preferable, as they still have the folded over edges that are exposed to combustion forces. Aftermarket ones are likely to be just a pressed sandwich style, unless you can see what you are buying. I which case, they will work ok. Flatness of the head/cylinder faces are essential. you can check the head flatness after a clean on a good sheet of thick plate glass (smooth and very flat) and feeler gauges. You should not be able to get a 3 thousandth (0.003") of an inch feeler gauge between the 2 faces anywhere around it. If can-....... obtain 2 new sheets of non-creased Wet or Dry P400/P600 (1 of each). Proceed to flat the head gasket face down on the P400 (dry) in circular movements until the high/low merge. Finish on the P600 the same way. The small impressions left by the original gasket do not really need to be removed, just aim for a smooth clean area all around. Head bolts are torqued to 28-30 lbs ft and rechecked after an hours running. Once the head leaks are sorted, you can sort the carb. Good luck Edit -Bit slow, Reiver beat me to it.

Looks like head gasket has been leaking, I have found in the past that some kohler heads seem prone to warping. A quick check of head for warp is to place a straight edge across head face and look for light under straight edge. more accurate way is to try and slide a feeler gauge between bottom of straight edge and head face.check diagonally.

Made in India. Royal Enfield sold everything to an Indian company in the 1980's I think it was. Price wise I've no idea.

Thanks everyone! I had a good day

Look up KAB P2 seats on that auction site, lots of wheel horses used that model seat and we’ve always got them at a reasonable price.