Rayp

Its that time of year to do a bit of maintenance on the E tank as all the time its quietly removing rust the anodes are being eaten away - so today was the day.
As you will see, they've been hard at work and it was time to put some old gang mower and triple bottom blades to good use.
 

Don’t think that you will find a float as it will probably have a “cube carb” with a needle valve operated by a diaphragm. If you are lucky it will respond to a good clean to remove gum and stale fuel - best done in an ultra sonic tank. . Not so lucky the diaphragms will have hardened or split. Worst of all it won’t respond and will need a replacement carb. Dare I say that a Chinese copy carb will cost far less than even a genuine diaphragm and gasket set. Have a look at Garden Hire Spares.

We have put together a quick Christmas video. Merry Chrismas everyone and we hope to see you in 2021
 
 

This model 60 aero angine arrived today with some useful literature
 
It's now on display with the others...
 
 
 

Nigel has the correct answer

The Acquisition
Not the usual agricultural machinery but it is mine, it's old and a machine of sorts.
First of all a bit of history as to how I became the custodian of a 1937 Triumph Gloria Vitesse 4 seat Tourer.

In 1963 my father was offered £5 for an old 10.8HP Coventry Climax engine that he had removed from a 1935 Gloria Saloon he used in the late 1950's if he put it in running condition but when he found out it was required for a Gloria tourer he refused to sell the engine and offered £5 for the car.
A couple of months later he became the owner of SU3305 and soon found out why it needed another engine:- 




The above was sticking out of the engine block and had smashed the camshaft, engine mount, sump and front casing.
As he was foreman of the machine shop in the local Albion agency in Aberdeen the spare engine was rebored, fitted with new Rover 10HP pistons, the crankshaft reground and the bearings re-metalled and line bored to suit.
The engine was installed, bushes and pins were made for the front suspension, door trim was replaced with leather from a cut down Austin Seven rear seat and sponge backed domestic carpet used to replace carpeting that was falling apart.
The mechanic at the local garage who owned a Singer 9 Le Mans tourer gave it a 'sympathetic' MOT and we enjoyed short runs on warm summer days around the Aberdeenshire B roads.
Over the next twenty years every so often if money allowed - he did have three teenage kids to feed and clothe - it was insured, MOT'd and licenced for 4 months in the summer and once I reached 25 my name was added to the insurance and I was allowed to drive it.
We attended local galas and some local car shows over the years until a problem with the brake master cylinder that we were unable to repair in 1988 put it off the road and it ended up at the back of the workshop collecting dust.
I had been bitten by the kit car bug by this time


A Burlington Chieftan


A Westfield SE
The Gloria was started and taken out to be dusted down now and then until 2005.
To be continued.
 

It has been a while since we have have posted. We have started a new project which is to build a replica of the Bolens large frame snow/dirt blade, Bolens part number 18085. The simple rule is that it is not allowed to snow until we are finished
 
This is a very rare attachment and realistically our only chance of owning one is to make a replica. Chris Stoneman recently purchased one of the few know to exisit in the UK and we picked it up for him which gave us the chance to take lots of measurements.
 
Chris's blade did not come with the lift push rods and we need some help with those. In the manual, it says that the distance between the centre line of the holes in the clevis rodes is 26-1/2" which gives a bit of an insight into the lengths of the rods. We did some searching on the Internet and that highlighted that the push rods are 20" long for the early large frames and 22-1/2" long for the HT's. We will be fitting this to our HT20 which suggests we need to make 22-1/2" rods. If someone has this attachement I would be grateful if you can measure the length of the push rods and confirm if they are 22-1/2". Also it would be helpful to know the length of the threaded part of the rod. Thanks in advance.
 
At the moment we get one tractor day a week so this project will take a while but it should be fun and I hope you follow along. I am making some notes of the work we are doing and making videos of the progress. In today's video I cover the preperation and cutting of the metal.
 
 

Hi all
 A  great day at the Workshop on Saturday morning resulted in this Tractor coming out to a great cheer , It has been quite an interesting Project to get running with a big learning curve for me on diesel engines and Clutches  ,
Some more work to do on the Tracks and wipe it down with a oily rag i think and finally enjoy having it  hope you like i ,I think its superb 

Some of my unusual collection of Colwood Motor Hoes with a stranger in the camp

This rather nice collection of engines and spares arrived today, three complete engines and loads of bits, plus some useful literature and dealer tags...
 
Engines now on the display with the others.
 
 

 

Not quite a Tot Rod but a Black Hood Wheel Horse look a like, sort of.  Based on a Pride Celebrity scooter bought cheap as a non runner.  Info said 6.25 MPH.  Larger rear wheels make it faster.  Steering wheel in place of the tiller with a dummy V twin engine to hide the scooter steering column.  Chain and sprockets from column to wheel.  2 x 12 volt 75 amp battery's so should give a good run. Still needs decals. Only had short test run so far.  Photo's of Grand daughter  having a play.  She loved it.

South East Marts Sale at South Godstone yesterday
 
Not much vintage there, no Wheelhorses, a few bits in photos below, I was good and bought nowt other than breakfast...
 
 


















 

I think I have one kicking about will have a look on monday

I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.

Thank you both.  I have now looked again at the Parts Diagrams and can see what I didn't see before, i.e. its part nos. 306 and 307 and yes it's on the 5HP, which is already fitted back on the machine so I am not looking forward to fitting it.

Right area but more round the cylinder fins the head. If the engine is back on the machine fitting the screw will require patience and dexterity as it will be right under the the cylinder. the circular cutouts go round the intake manifold between the carburettor and the block.

I meant the cylinder fins 🙄

Here is a link to my wife's O&R collection. She also has a Tiny Tiger (not pictured) that is partly disassembled. It all started with the yellow pump (Type 217) that a friend of her grandfather gave me.
 
Jen's O&R Collection

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube.  I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Ok, here’s the little project I’ve been working on for the last couple weeks.  I’ve been wanting to make a small lawn mower/trimmer with an O&R and I had a nice 133 military engine that needed to find a home.  Thanks to Terry@Just O&R, he was able to hook me up with the perfect vintage mower - it was exactly what I was hoping for. This one is a 14” Sensation, perfect size and design style for the O&R.  
 
It’s not 100% done yet but I couldn’t put off getting some photos posted. I’m still working on the actual trimmer concept and plan to go with more of a weed eater head set up instead of a mower blade.  I plan to use the starter cup off a vintage Pioneer chainsaw and drill three holes so I can pass through some pre-cut Trimmer lines with end-stops. I’ll figure out a good way to secure the cup to the spindle shaft. I also added a stop button to the back plate similar to a few other O&R tools I have.  I’m also finalizing a short throttle cable, doesn’t really need one but thought it might be nice. After a lot of hunting I ended up finding a cast aluminum boat chair pedestal that made the perfect adapter plate to mount the engine to the mower. I also had to swap out the normal Type 133 mount with one that has a couple more inches in height. This was needed to get the right clearance for the gas tank.  Just a note, the early style Drillgine gas tanks don’t mount to the newer style engines and I had to make a couple slight mods to the casting on the case to get all the clearances to fit right.
 
Here is the before and after...
 

Hello all some pictures of my new Gutbrod which was bought just before lockdown and after many weeks of cleaning, and a lot of TLC, and some welding  we fitted the loader and Bucket , and also the double rear wheels yesterday . I think its a superb bit of kit , just the rear wheel  weights to be fitted .
The wiring needed sorted out but it has another feature I like the very hard to come by hour meter in the dash it doesnt get any better hope you like its another tractor for Gutbrod Scotland  

When we are asked about Bolens tractors, it is often a question about the rear axle drive pin on geared Tube Frame tractors.
 
The usual question are, "why can't I push the tractor?", "I put it in gear and let up the clutch and nothing happens?" and "what do I do if the pin is seized?".
 
I am sure others get asked the same questions. I decided to cover this in a video as it is easier to show people a video than explan the details
 
 

No problem, If one of the old ones are repairable, PM me a photo of it's condition. If it's possible to fix,  you're able to send it to me and cover the postage, I'll see what I can do.  
...............bit slow.... Wristpin beat me to it.

Re chroming aside I often used to compensate for the wear in  the Hayter lever and the similar one on the old belt driven Webb 24” machine.
It’s usually the ” anvil “ in the lever body that wears so file it square to make a little flat platform . Then drill the platform to accept a tiny BA  screw. Reassemble the lever drilling or reaming out the pivot bolt hole to take a slightly larger pivot bolt and test the locking. Usually it won’t lock because the BD screw head is a bit too large. Carefully file a bit off and try again  - until it locks .
Back in the day I had a supply of the little drive rivets that Hayter used for securing the serial number plates on various machines but they are no longer available , so a tiny BA screw has to do.

What are your plans for the headlights?