I have the a-27-4 in the new metal bearing should be a-27-17 used
I have the a-27-2 in the new # metal bearing a-27-18 only in a new one
I have a-27-3 in a used one I don't see an old # for that one
If you need one let me know
If you have a couple minutes can you send a photo of these? I’m curious to compare the design of the metal to the plastic ones? Wondering if I can find a metal version off a donor engine or something and it would help to have another visual reference since they won’t be NOS with part numbers.
Came home this evening to a really nice surprise - this super cool original owners manual and parts list for the Clinton K-150 / O&R outboard, THANK YOU VERY MUCH Terry (Just O&R)! This is awesome, always fun to have original literature and manuals to these O&Rs! Very much appreciated that Terry!
That "nub" looks like a sheared key to me but there was another guy before stating his flywheel didn't have a key way. The key only lines it up for the timing and the taper is actually what holds it in place. Is the crank slot normal?
Now I see what takes you guys so long. All of those neat little compartments for parts takes time.
Wish my organizational skills were that good
Yeah, I made the mistake thinking it was sheared and initially tried to remove it and that’s when I found out it was part of the design.
I use to be more organized but now that I’ve done a few these you start to know each little piece pretty well.
1 hour ago, factory said:
I hope he knows that the shaft seals are different in these early engines.
The carb with the red needle valve, I'm sure I seen that on the Creme Lure generator, mine doesn't use a Type 115 117 though.
David
The seals are different sizes or design? I haven’t removed them from the housings yet. I was also wondering about the little red cap on the needle valve- I hadn’t seen that before.
Well, what I had hoped was going to be a quick tear down and rebuild as a test engine for new gasket materials and seal alternatives has turned into a bit more of a project. I should have known better with these older model engines...
This is is the first I’ve seen of a flywheel that doesn’t have a key. There is a little nub cast into the area where the key slot would normally be, very odd design concept. Mine was ruined upon removal so now I will have to pull another from a donor engine if I have one. It barely protrudes enough to catch the slot on the mating shaft. Another bad design flaw...
Do you need some ( better) bearings ? I should had some somewhere.
I might, it looks like at least one of the cages has a crack all the way through. It’s still holding together and the rollers move freely. I’m surprised this old plastic hasn’t disintegrated completely, however I suspect running the engine might blow it to bits... I’m going to scrounge through my stuff as well and see if I have something in a donor engine. I don’t really want to put new parts in this engine, I’d rather save them for a tool project. I’ll keep you posted but if you come across some let me know. These older style plastic ones seem to be a little harder to come by. I wish it were possible to swap over to metal but the design is completely different. I’ll try to add a couple photos of what I’m running into later tonight.
Thanks John, I might take you up on that. I found another one off an old rusted engine- it’s pretty ugly. I’m going to try it first but I don’t have high hopes because it’s pretty corroded and rusted between all the little thin metal plates. If it doesn’t work then I’ll probably need to buy your’s.
I finally got this little engine all pulled apart and forgot about these early ones having the bearings with the plastic cages - what a bad engineering idea that was... This may not have been the best engine for me to pick as an experiment for gasket and seal alternatives but I’m committed now...
Yeah, looking to replace this one. The plastic is so squishy and sticky it’s nasty! Now I just need to keep on the lookout for one of these older style coils...
I used the paper gaskets I cut but not the head gaskets. I’m going to pull apart a separate “test” engine to try the paper gaskets, new head/cylinder gaskets and shaft seals and O-rings. I want to try all the new alternatives in one engine to see what happens.
I’m sure this has been discussed before but starting a new thread to capture the knowledge. Is there a simple way to check coil function on the bench? I have an older style coil that is really beat up and I think has been exposed to some nasty chemicals or something because the plastic housing is gummy, soft and sticky. It also has a deep gash that broke through to the coil underneath. Not sure if it’ll function or is fixable.
Fan is direct drive, it’ll be exciting to turn this thing on. I’m almost convinced that this fan is intended to be used horizontally. The orientation of the tank, the throttle and how the handle is set up just seems to suggest you would hold it and point the airflow somewhere.
No. DON"T use carb cleaner in it. It's a check valve with a rubber type of flapper inside and carb cleaner will swell it closed and locked. Hopefully I'm not too late.
BTW
Now you’ve got me curious, how does the little valve work inside that brass nipple? I know the little lever/plunger inside the carb seals it up with the little rubber piece in place of the little steel check ball like on the other style carbs but I can’t think of how an additional valve inside the brass nipple would be activated.
It’s worth a try. I was surprised just how solid that old oil/gas can get. If you remove all the inside parts from the carb, especially gaskets and the little plunger with the rubber tip then you should be able to soak it in carb cleaner. I think I ended up using a needle or small paper clip to get in there and dig out all the gunk.
Bridges MINI MOTA drill refresh
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
You’ve definitely got some gems!