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CNew

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Posts posted by CNew
 
 

  1. On 2/18/2020 at 12:09 PM, JUST O&R said:

    I have the a-27-4 in the new metal bearing should be a-27-17 used

    I have the a-27-2 in the new # metal bearing a-27-18 only in a new one

    I have a-27-3 in a used one  I don't see an old # for that one

    If you need one let me know

     

    If you have a couple minutes can you send a photo of these? I’m curious to compare the design of the metal to the plastic ones? Wondering if I can find a metal version off a donor engine or something and it would help to have another visual reference since they won’t be NOS with part numbers.


  2. 18 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

    I have the a-27-4 in the new metal bearing should be a-27-17 used

    I have the a-27-2 in the new # metal bearing a-27-18 only in a new one

    I have a-27-3 in a used one  I don't see an old # for that one

    If you need one let me know


    Can the plastic bearings actually be swapped out with metal ones on these early model engines or is the design too different?


  3. 2 hours ago, Wallfish said:

    That "nub" looks like a sheared key to me but there was another guy before stating his flywheel didn't have a key way. The key only lines it up for the timing and the taper is actually what holds it in place. Is the crank slot normal?

     

    Now I see what takes you guys so long. All of those neat little compartments for parts takes time. :yankchain:

    Wish my organizational skills were that good

    Yeah, I made the mistake thinking it was sheared and initially tried to remove it and that’s when I found out it was part of the design. 
     

    I use to be more organized but now that I’ve done a few these you start to know each little piece pretty well.

    1 hour ago, factory said:

    I hope he knows that the shaft seals are different in these early engines.

    The carb with the red needle valve, I'm sure I seen that on the Creme Lure generator, mine doesn't use a Type 115 117 though.

     

    David


    The seals are different sizes or design?  I haven’t removed them from the housings yet.  I was also wondering about the little red cap on the needle valve- I hadn’t seen that before.


  4. Well, what I had hoped was going to be a quick tear down and rebuild as a test engine for new gasket materials and seal alternatives has turned into a bit more of a project. I should have known better with these older model engines...

     

    This is is the first I’ve seen of a flywheel that doesn’t have a key. There is a little nub cast into the area where the key slot would normally be, very odd design concept. Mine was ruined upon removal so now I will have to pull another from a donor engine if I have one. It barely protrudes enough to catch the slot on the mating shaft. Another bad design flaw...

     

    This engine also has the plastic bearing cages...

    E195178F-BB5D-4548-8C04-4323FDF84206.jpeg

    BAFAFB0C-2E23-4C5D-8178-9C3EA4D77F4D.jpeg

    BD3FC55F-6342-4E43-B8F9-77D71F95244C.jpeg


  5. 16 minutes ago, JUST O&R said:

    Do you need some ( better) bearings ? I should had some somewhere.

     

    I might, it looks like at least one of the cages has a crack all the way through. It’s still holding together and the rollers move freely. I’m surprised this old plastic hasn’t disintegrated completely, however I suspect running the engine might blow it to bits...  I’m going to scrounge through my stuff as well and see if I have something in a donor engine. I don’t really want to put new parts in this engine, I’d rather save them for a tool project. I’ll keep you posted but if you come across some let me know. These older style plastic ones seem to be a little harder to come by. I wish it were possible to swap over to metal but the design is completely different.  I’ll try to add a couple photos of what I’m running into later tonight.


  6. Thanks John, I might take you up on that.  I found another one off an old rusted engine- it’s pretty ugly. I’m going to try it first but I don’t have high hopes because it’s pretty corroded and rusted between all the little thin metal plates. If it doesn’t work then I’ll probably need to buy your’s.

     

    I finally got this little engine all pulled apart and forgot about these early ones having the bearings with the plastic cages - what a bad engineering idea that was...  This may not have been the best engine for me to pick as an experiment for gasket and seal alternatives but I’m committed now...


  7. I’m sure this has been discussed before but starting a new thread to capture the knowledge.  Is there a simple way to check coil function on the bench?  I have an older style coil that is really beat up and I think has been exposed to some nasty chemicals or something because the plastic housing is gummy, soft and sticky. It also has a deep gash that broke through to the coil underneath. Not sure if it’ll function or is fixable.

    13F45A69-2571-49F4-B2AE-1F5A4B3E0D88.jpeg

    CB6B511A-E39A-4D32-A751-A517DB0E80CC.jpeg


  8. 8 minutes ago, Wallfish said:

    No. DON"T use carb cleaner in it. It's a check valve with a rubber type of flapper inside and carb cleaner will swell it closed and locked. Hopefully I'm not too late.

    BTW :WMOM:

     

    Now you’ve got me curious, how does the little valve work inside that brass nipple? I know the little lever/plunger inside the carb seals it up with the little rubber piece in place of the little steel check ball like on the other style carbs but I can’t think of how an additional valve inside the brass nipple would be activated.:scratchhead:


  9. Interesting, well that’s good to know. Mine didn’t have anything like that, maybe the previous owner had already ruined it.

     

    SORRY for the bad advice. Hope you didn’t get too far with this before Wallfish stepped in.


  10. It’s worth a try. I was surprised just how solid that old oil/gas can get. If you remove all the inside parts from the carb, especially gaskets and the little plunger with the rubber tip then you should be able to soak it in carb cleaner. I think I ended up using a needle or small paper clip to get in there and dig out all the gunk.

 
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