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Thanks John, I am leaning that direction as well. I will mainly be displaying this and running it occasionally. Clint

David, Thank you for researching through all your info. The Bridges reference is great to know, that’s much less oil than it would take to fill the gearbox chambers so that helps me think the amount needed is just enough to keep things generally lubed. When I cleaned everything this afternoon the only trace of remaining oil had all dried up and if I had to guess may have been about a teaspoon worth all said and done for what I probably scraped out. My drill is like the one in your second photo with the two fill holes.

Making some good progress on the Drillgine. Finally got the gearbox completely apart and everything cleaned (that was a chore and I’m a bit OCD when it comes to cleaning). I’ll be making some new gaskets as I put it back together. Back to the oil question- should I used a high viscosity gear oil like 90 or a standard 30 motor oil. I’m also using some Lubriplate along the way as I reassemble the gearboxes. Since there is an oil fill hole on each side of the drill is there a recommended procedure for adding the oil? Do you tilt the drill on its side and open the top plug and the bottom plug and add oil into the top plug hole until it runs out the bottom hole? I’m guessing the gearbox doesn’t need to be totally full of oil but I really have no idea.

David, This is great information, you never cease to amaze me the amount of info you have on these engines! I’ll take a closer look at everything on the engine and double check that things are set up correctly with the Governor. Clint

Thanks John! I’ll see if I can get a video this weekend. I have now adjusted the Governor spring mechanism to the lowest setting and I also turned in the main adjusting screw some so I’ll see if that will even things out a bit. I’ve seen a couple videos of Orline chainsaws where they seem to have a nice low idle and triggers throttle response (like the Ford O&R chainsaw video on YouTube). I guess that’s kind of what I was thinking/aiming to achieve. Clint

Thanks David! This engine has all the Governor and carb pieces. I’ll check again to see about the Governor vane but I think it was attached.

John, Great advice. I think I have the gasket materials covered but seals are a bit more challenging, except for the once where an o-ring will work. After looking at the drill a bit more I may not take the engine completely apart. The gear boxes aren’t an issue. I’m still trying to build up a stash of parts and unfortunately shaft seals don’t seem to come up very often so I’ll probably need to be fairly selective and cautious on which engines I end up going through completely. Speaking of idling, for a standard engine with no throttle control do these engines typically race at full rpm? I started one up the other day and it didn’t seem to want to idle, rather it seemed to rev at very very high rpm. I’m still learning about 2 strokes and how to tune them. clint

Thanks again for all the great advice and tips. We will see how things look once I open the gearbox and go through the engine.

I’ll look into the o-ring solution. I did find one seal on eBay so I can use it to figure out sizing.

Hopefully next time I won’t need to go to this extreme. I’m not sure why it was being so stubborn. It wasn’t rusted or anything either. I have a hex socket that chucked nicely and then I used the impact wrench, worked pretty well actually.

John, I had a chance to try the impact wrench this evening and that did the trick! Clint

Thanks for the tips John, I’ll give that a try. Clint

Great suggestions. I just verified there is no screw in the center base of the jaws. I attempted the idea of chucking a hex and then hitting that and unfortunately that didn’t work either. This thing is being quite stubborn. Feels like if I hit it any harder I could jam something up in the gear box or in the engine. I may have to try the impact wrench idea next. Just to clarify, when it states to hit it in the counter clockwise direction I’m understanding that to mean CCW looking straight at the chuck, as David showed in his arrow picture, and not looking at it from the rear of the drill? CCW looking straight at the chuck would be the “Forward” direction for drilling.

I just bought some Hondabond gasket sealer for this same purpose. I haven’t opened up the tank yet to try it out but I think the Yamabond and Hondabond are equivalent.

Thanks David! That’s the technique I tried without any success. I’ll give it a couple more attempts. I didn’t want to go at too hard as I just k ow if I would mess anything up. I appreciate you confirming the process. Also good to know the two halves aren’t sealed. As always all your technical expertise is greatly appreciated! Clint

Any tips on how to remove the chuck? The service manual suggests using the chuck key but that didn’t seem to work. Also, I opened the oil fill plugs and it was 100% dry as a bone in there, not a single drop of oil and the gear teeth aren’t even oily or greasy. No signs of dried grease either. Does anyone know if the gearbox is a sealed two-piece construction where one half would have some lithium grease on the gears and the other side has oil? Or, does the oil flow all throughout the entire gearbox? I’m guessing if the oil goes all over then it’s a wet clutch?

Awesome, thank you David!

I’ve started digging into a Drillgine and I’m about to open up the gearbox. I noticed there are two threaded screw plugs that look to be oil fill holes, one on each side of the gearbox. Is this gearbox intended to be filled with oil or a light grease like Lubriplate. If it’s oil, what weight/type and how much? Also, if anyone has any tips on things to watch out for or common surprises when opening these gearboxes please let me know. is there a good substitute for the large rubber seal/ring that is on the outside output side of the engine between the engine and the gearbox? Thanks, Clint

Ahhhh, I didn’t connect the dots - I should have looked closer. That’s a pretty cool set up!

Not exactly, I was thinking the actual finger trigger end of it Or, is it some sort of twist throttle out at the handle?

Very cool, nice trimmer. Where is the throttle trigger positioned? I’m hoping to try to start my trimmer this afternoon before the big blizzard hits us. This will be the first attempt since getting the trimmer and going through the engine and gearbox. I hope the engine runs ok... Clint

John, Funny timing. I reached out to Eric a week or so ago to line up some cutting as well. I just placed an ordered for a large sheet of the rubber diaphragm material on Thursday of this week. As soon as it comes in I am also going to send it to Eric to have some diaphragms cut. He’s awesome and is also going to cut some more of the paper carberator gaskets. If we can source the other exhaust gasket and other gasket materials and stuff I’d certainly be interested in considering being part of a larger group order if there is interest. Clint

I found another Mechanix Illustrated with O&R but haven’t bought my own copy yet. I’ll add photos once I do. Yep, some of these applications are pretty interesting... Clint

This may have been posted already but here is another featured O&R from 1962. Looks like the Wonder Wheel as well as some other scooters and yard equipment.

These Paul Bunyan Chip-A-Saw chainsaws are incredible! You’re all lucky to own these