ranger

Make a frame to carry a couple of pillow block bearings,hang the cylinder from that and set up a bar to attach an angle grinder which can slide from side to side, with adjustment for cut, rotate the cylinder slowly and traverse the angle grinder. You could slide it by hand or use a length of threaded bar as a leadscrew. If you make it to use more than once you could sharpen other cylinders and recoup costs. I'm sure I read an article somewhere of a similar type machine a farmer built to sharpen some bit of kit. Much more satisfaction when you do it yourself.

I see this occasionally on VM engines always seems to be #2 cylinder,elbow on manifold lines up nicely with #2 inlet port, any water or excess oil gets a straight shot into the port and can cause 'hydraulicing'. I've seen this happen just turning over on the starter, usual symptoms: a slight miss-fire at low revs and puffs of white smoke

Just had one of those 'eureka' moments, (or perhaps I'm waking up) you've swopped cylinders ,pistons ,heads etc did you check piston height ,You could conceivably have a bent conrod which would lower compression on that cylinder if you only swopped the pistons and not the rod.

Hi again, Are the injector pipes interchangeable, or are they unique to each cylinder? If unique then is this the only part you have not swopped between cylinders ?

It'll turn out to be something simple in the end .what about a temporary electric fuel pump to boost pressure? How are the two pumps synchronized for fuel delivery? has someone had it apart before ? could the delivery be less on the second cylinder? Does it run faster when on one cylinder than the other at the same setting? Soon be time for more asprins ps I assume the cam lobes for the valves checked out ok

If there is a problem with fuel supply then I suppose it's possible that which ever way round you have the components the first one in line could take what it needed and drop the pressure/flow enough to cause a problem, it shouldn't, bearing in mind it doesn't inject both at the same time.also 'cracking' number 1 injector would not allow any more fuel to number 2. Could you swop the pipes round to feed number 2 first and see if the symptoms transfer to the 'new' second in line

If the spacers are not there, and should be, perhaps this could be delaying commencement of injection on both cylinders but due to manufacturing tolerances on the crankcase,camshaft, (unlikely but ?) maybe the cylinder that smokes could be further retarded than the "good" one. It always used to be a compromise on the 'proper' motorbikes with a magneto, to set the timing; one cylinder would be spot on, the other slightly out you never know. I assume valve timing s ok, not maybe a tooth out ?

Hi Martin, My 1989 312-8 has a 42" sd deck, if you're sill having problems obtaining a belt I could take mine off for you to try,if it fits you can then take it in for comparison. Doug.

Hi, Rather than strip the thing right down, is it possible to set up a dial gauge to read the lift from the cam lobes and compare them either with a spec sheet or each other? looking at the manual via the link from Koen, could the spacer between the tappet and pump be missing on this cylinder, page 36,drawing 80, item C ? Doug.

on my 1979 C 121

I think that serial number points towards a 1988 year of manufacture for the engine.

Very nice find Chris. you'll have to be careful if you give these your usual shiny paintwork, Your likely to have seagulls trying to mate with their reflection when you use them! (that's the excuse I give for not painting mine + if they don't shine, the pikey's are less likely to spot them.) These are my discs, part of the 80's wheelhorse 'implement pack': discs; plough and cultivator. I only have the discs and cultivator, I need to fit my 'stubble' plough unit to the frame, all the different implements fit the same beam, you change over the hitch mounting to angle the plough.

That's the boss for a Lamda sensor Ian, Nigel's going 'green'.

Hi, I've got a couple of migs at the moment, an Esab Smashweld 180 and a German Erfi 170,along with 3 Oxford 180amp oil cooled stick sets,a MOSA generator welder and a Cemont TX150 ac/dc square wave inverter tig or stick set, great for welding aluminium. the main problem is deciding which one to use. The gas I use comes from a company called Gas Direct, they deliver 3/4 times a week around where I live,it costs me £14.28 a month for rental of 2 50ltr bottles,one of 15% argon/co2 for the Mig and one of pure argon for the tig,That's the price for both,not each, The refill for the mig costs around £19.00 and £28.00 for the tig. These are the big bottles filled to 230bar. Doug. Oh, almost forgot, collection is free, delivery £20 .00p no other charges.

Hi Martin, found the silencer,it;s for a C121, but i think the C125 is the same. I live in Sutton, just up the road from you. I'll be coming through St Ives tomorrow evening,off to the garden centre. if you p.m. me your address I'll drop it off for you. regards Doug .

Hi Martin, whereabouts in Cambs are you? I think I've got a C121 exhaust in the shed You're welcome to if you can make use of it. regards Doug.

many happy returns Ian, hope you got lots of goodies,red of course!!!! :thumbs:

Seen a couple of the MF10 MF12 models at the "Cheffins" vintage sales in the last few years, I think the last one made around £700

How about building the port up with weld, and then machining back to standard size ?

have you tried polyester spray filler ? It's a high build coat that doesn't sink into any pits etc, great i you have filler in a panel, it also wet sands easily. Or you could shoot it with some black metalflake to hide any minor imperfections

Gold wheels, with "WHEELHORSE" decals in gold leaf. :D

Probably called a 'brake' pedal because it 'breaks'

Many happy returns James, hope You have a good one with lots of prezzies with RED paint on them. :thumbs:

Don't know how to put a video link on here yet, but take a look at "Yorkshire Airlines" on Youtube :D

A couple of pics from a show last year.