ranger

Many Happy Returns (for tomorrow) Mark and many of them Doug. ps sorry tuesday

What happened to the original rod ? did it break or is it worn out ? If worn you could bore it slightly larger,and then possibly 'white metal' it, bore to just undersize then scrape to a fit. Try 'googling' re- metalling bearings and 'Babbit' metal.If you have a fairly accurate drill press,and a bearing scraper you could probably manage without the use of a lathe or mill. Doug

I remember a chap who had one with a 'Wal Philips' fuel injector in the sixties, no float chamber,just a rotary tapered 'groove' if my memory serves me correctly, if you forgot to turn the petrol off when you stopped,it all ran out into the engine fuel tank was a different shape to the bikes of that era too I seem to recall.

I second that, it is a beautiful machine, by the way Alain, over here, just to confuse things, the 'LEFT' lane is the 'RIGHT' lane, if you're in the 'RIGHT' lane you're in the 'WRONG' lane, if you see what I mean. Doug.

Many happy returns for yesterday's birthday Mr Showman,and may you have many more

Hi Tom, The best,but not cheapest,coolant I have used is a synthetic used mainly for grinding machines, I use it in the lathe and the cut off saw. It doesn't suffer from the usual smell that the normal 'white' emulsion does as it degrades after a while, you don't usually have rust problems with the emulsion,but you can get 'staining' on the bed etc, if you allow it to lay between surfaces for a while if not used, the synthetic doesn't seem to have this problem. I think the brand is 'Rocal' It is very long lasting, I usually just top up with water as it evaporates,I have a dehumidifier running all the time in the 'shed',have done for years, and don't have any rust problems on any thing in there,even welding rods or wire. Doug.

Great pic's Norm, love the blue AJS, I had one like that in '69'. Is it a '31CSR?

How can you possibly go back to driving 5-1/2mph horses after this Ian? you'll be well spoilt now :D truly amazing and AWESOME!!!!!!! :thumbs: Nitrous next ?

If anyone is around Chelmsford area on Saturday 13th, Cheffins are holding an auction of vintage items, the catalogue is on their website and includes things like a pedestrian tractor plough and a couple of 16hp kohler single cylinder engines, unused. photos on website, lots 64,507and 508. lots of stationary engines Austin 7's etc, worth a look.

Hello James, full throttle,no choke, if it runs for a couple of seconds keep giving it a short squirt,if the fuel is the problem the engine revs and dies and revs and dies as you give it the shots. did this last weekend to get my mates J D 279 mower to run, it had the same symptoms. Doug.

You could try getting someone to try to start the engine while you give it a few squirts of carb cleaner or wd40 type spray. if it fires and runs keep giving short squirts, I find this works on engines that have stood for a while, if it runs when you do this it usually means the carb is the problem and is gummed up.

Make a frame to carry a couple of pillow block bearings,hang the cylinder from that and set up a bar to attach an angle grinder which can slide from side to side, with adjustment for cut, rotate the cylinder slowly and traverse the angle grinder. You could slide it by hand or use a length of threaded bar as a leadscrew. If you make it to use more than once you could sharpen other cylinders and recoup costs. I'm sure I read an article somewhere of a similar type machine a farmer built to sharpen some bit of kit. Much more satisfaction when you do it yourself.

I see this occasionally on VM engines always seems to be #2 cylinder,elbow on manifold lines up nicely with #2 inlet port, any water or excess oil gets a straight shot into the port and can cause 'hydraulicing'. I've seen this happen just turning over on the starter, usual symptoms: a slight miss-fire at low revs and puffs of white smoke

Just had one of those 'eureka' moments, (or perhaps I'm waking up) you've swopped cylinders ,pistons ,heads etc did you check piston height ,You could conceivably have a bent conrod which would lower compression on that cylinder if you only swopped the pistons and not the rod.

Hi again, Are the injector pipes interchangeable, or are they unique to each cylinder? If unique then is this the only part you have not swopped between cylinders ?

It'll turn out to be something simple in the end .what about a temporary electric fuel pump to boost pressure? How are the two pumps synchronized for fuel delivery? has someone had it apart before ? could the delivery be less on the second cylinder? Does it run faster when on one cylinder than the other at the same setting? Soon be time for more asprins ps I assume the cam lobes for the valves checked out ok

If there is a problem with fuel supply then I suppose it's possible that which ever way round you have the components the first one in line could take what it needed and drop the pressure/flow enough to cause a problem, it shouldn't, bearing in mind it doesn't inject both at the same time.also 'cracking' number 1 injector would not allow any more fuel to number 2. Could you swop the pipes round to feed number 2 first and see if the symptoms transfer to the 'new' second in line

If the spacers are not there, and should be, perhaps this could be delaying commencement of injection on both cylinders but due to manufacturing tolerances on the crankcase,camshaft, (unlikely but ?) maybe the cylinder that smokes could be further retarded than the "good" one. It always used to be a compromise on the 'proper' motorbikes with a magneto, to set the timing; one cylinder would be spot on, the other slightly out you never know. I assume valve timing s ok, not maybe a tooth out ?

Hi Martin, My 1989 312-8 has a 42" sd deck, if you're sill having problems obtaining a belt I could take mine off for you to try,if it fits you can then take it in for comparison. Doug.

Hi, Rather than strip the thing right down, is it possible to set up a dial gauge to read the lift from the cam lobes and compare them either with a spec sheet or each other? looking at the manual via the link from Koen, could the spacer between the tappet and pump be missing on this cylinder, page 36,drawing 80, item C ? Doug.

on my 1979 C 121

I think that serial number points towards a 1988 year of manufacture for the engine.

Very nice find Chris. you'll have to be careful if you give these your usual shiny paintwork, Your likely to have seagulls trying to mate with their reflection when you use them! (that's the excuse I give for not painting mine + if they don't shine, the pikey's are less likely to spot them.) These are my discs, part of the 80's wheelhorse 'implement pack': discs; plough and cultivator. I only have the discs and cultivator, I need to fit my 'stubble' plough unit to the frame, all the different implements fit the same beam, you change over the hitch mounting to angle the plough.

That's the boss for a Lamda sensor Ian, Nigel's going 'green'.

Hi, I've got a couple of migs at the moment, an Esab Smashweld 180 and a German Erfi 170,along with 3 Oxford 180amp oil cooled stick sets,a MOSA generator welder and a Cemont TX150 ac/dc square wave inverter tig or stick set, great for welding aluminium. the main problem is deciding which one to use. The gas I use comes from a company called Gas Direct, they deliver 3/4 times a week around where I live,it costs me £14.28 a month for rental of 2 50ltr bottles,one of 15% argon/co2 for the Mig and one of pure argon for the tig,That's the price for both,not each, The refill for the mig costs around £19.00 and £28.00 for the tig. These are the big bottles filled to 230bar. Doug. Oh, almost forgot, collection is free, delivery £20 .00p no other charges.