Wristpin

Similar issues to the Osprey, front end rot and terminal damage to the right angle drive transmission if run dry . Still can't get my head round the price being asked for that Osprey - could be a long time waiting for the right customer at that price. There's been a Ransomes Antelope on ebay for £400 - reduced from £500 with no takers. Not surprising when I've just bought one in similar condition for £37.50 and another far better one for £75.

Yes, those ones that exited through the deck have been obsolete for ages but the Briggs small "cigar" will do the job . A pattern one is available from Central Spares ; who also do a sponge air filter. http://www.centralspares.co.uk/product/muffler_23.aspx You may be able to recognise your air filter element from this, but beware that some have minor dimensional variations that are not obvious to a casual glance. The safest way is to key your model, type and code into a parts look-up site. https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbnlvw6qyw6qy94/Briggs%20sponge%20air%20filter%20elements0001.pdf?dl=0

I'd say that they will struggle to get that sort of money but may be I'm out of touch!

Time for a word - or was it too long ago?

Assuming that it has its original Briggs and Stratton engine the engine code number stamped into the blower housing / cylinder shroud will give a rough indication ie 830905** 1983, September the fifth. The last two digits are for the plant/shift of manufacture. If the engine is original the date of the machine is likely to be within six months later. No Glass's Guide for used mowers, it's what someone is prepared to pay on the day. Unless the paint/rust is really bad it can be worth more in original condition commensurate with its age rather than repainted.

May have missed this on an earlier post but have you tried either of the problem mags on another machine that has run ok with its own? Also beware that by asking a mag to jump an oversize gap the spark may find an easier route inside the mag and permanently damage the windings. The received wisdom is that a mag should only be tested via an earthed spark plug set at the normal gap and not off the end of the HT lead.

Posted this on the wrong thread - Brrr it's cold . Some thoughts on the belt issue. Possibly try using a cogged (not toothed) wedge belt, machining up a pair of deeper profile pulleys to retain the belt within the flanges when it twists and making up two raking fingers pointing into the open side of the pulleys to continuously remove debris before it builds up.

Some thoughts on the belt issue. Possibly try using a cogged (not toothed) wedge belt, machining up a pair of deeper profile pulleys to retain the belt within the flanges when it twists and making up two raking fingers pointing into the open side of the pulleys to continuously remove debris before it builds up.

Worth checking that in air the spark is going from the centre electrode to the plug body and not the other what around due to polarity problems. Seen that with a coil ignition set up but not sure if it can happen with a mag.

Any possibility that tha rogue mag was originally set up to run in the opposite direction ?

Can you observe the mag while its being cranked in the dark to see if there are any stray sparks around the points etc ?

When I was at school in darkest Sussex in the 1950s the school was "off grid" and had a single? cylinder Lister generator (start-o-matic?) . Presumably it was DC as there was a room full of glass tank accumulators - no recollection of the voltage. I seem to remember that it stood quite tall and had twin flywheels and a thermo-syphon cooling system that just lost heat from a 45 gallon sized drum mounted above it . This tank was a good source of hot water for melting "scotch glue" in the woodwork shop next door!

We had a customer living about quarter of a mile from the sea who parked his MTD ride-on in an open sided shed , always pointing in the same direction. The side exposed to the sea spray completely rusted away while the other side was more or less untouched . Fortunately MTD were able to supply a complete new chassis section which saved a lot of cutting and shutting.

Different take on "Weld a little, grind a lot"

R Tech have a really good reputation for customer service too.

A little petrol on a rag held over the air intake can work. However have a fire extinguisher / fire blanket to hand in case of a back fire.

"the engine isn't the original, it looks like a 16HP Briggs but im not sure haven't had time to really look at it, so will have a better look soon! " Not sure about it being a Briggs with that vertical oil filter - possibly a touch of Kohler - but it's been a while!

I thought "home made" but they certainly look like MT chain cases . I had never heard of or seen a twin six. Edit. Yes, it is a twin six and is described and illustrated in Brian Bell's Seventy Years of Garden Machinery - what a beast, 9hp Briggs and uo to a 6 foot cut!

The same Rice Bros that were in Billingshurst and Horsham?

Just watching a repeat of a repeat of Salvage Squad and they have a stuck four cylinder lump from a Tiger Moth and the old chap supervising them heats up a pan of oil until it smokes and then pours some into each bore . Apparently the heat helps penetration and expands the bore a fraction to aid freeing the pistons. - allegedly !! Any way it worked for them ! So get the chip pan out!

Patience will be rewarded! I'd be inclined to give it a couple of weeks before resorting to the block of wood and lump hammer! Probably marginal but at this stage its penetration thats needed more than lubrication . Plus Gas or a mix of acetone and brake or AT fluid maybe.

Often solenoids fail as the result of over tightening of the terminal securing nuts or failure to hold the back nuts ( if fitted) while tightening the terminal nuts. This pulls the internal contacts slightly out of line so that when the magnet pulls the contractor disc up it doesn't sit squarely against the contacts . The resulting arcing either welds it into permanent contact or the " slag" created prevents further contact. One brand of solenoid that we used had a little sticker on each one specifying a maximum torque for the terminal nuts - which of course we observed religiously ! However it was noticeable that we experienced far fewer early failures on solenoids fitted in our workshop than with those sold over the counter.

Eliminate the possibility of an ignition or safety switch problem. With the switch turned to off/stop take a fly lead from the battery positive and touch it to the small ( thin wire) terminal of the solenoid. If the solenoid clicks and the starter kicks in the problem lies in the switch or the safety circuit. No result from that, you can by-pass the solenoid but this is a bit brutal and only for the brave or foolish!. Take a decent sized bit of iron (not you best screwdriver!) and bring it down squarely across the two heavy terminals on top of the solenoid but be prepared to whip it off a bit smartish! . If the starter kicks the problem is with the solenoid.

Now that IS patina!!!

Need to know more? Can scan the whole book. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8vpp76wsdvdmjrp/Villiers%20Mk100001.pdf?dl=0