Wristpin

Patience will be rewarded! I'd be inclined to give it a couple of weeks before resorting to the block of wood and lump hammer! Probably marginal but at this stage its penetration thats needed more than lubrication . Plus Gas or a mix of acetone and brake or AT fluid maybe.

Often solenoids fail as the result of over tightening of the terminal securing nuts or failure to hold the back nuts ( if fitted) while tightening the terminal nuts. This pulls the internal contacts slightly out of line so that when the magnet pulls the contractor disc up it doesn't sit squarely against the contacts . The resulting arcing either welds it into permanent contact or the " slag" created prevents further contact. One brand of solenoid that we used had a little sticker on each one specifying a maximum torque for the terminal nuts - which of course we observed religiously ! However it was noticeable that we experienced far fewer early failures on solenoids fitted in our workshop than with those sold over the counter.

Eliminate the possibility of an ignition or safety switch problem. With the switch turned to off/stop take a fly lead from the battery positive and touch it to the small ( thin wire) terminal of the solenoid. If the solenoid clicks and the starter kicks in the problem lies in the switch or the safety circuit. No result from that, you can by-pass the solenoid but this is a bit brutal and only for the brave or foolish!. Take a decent sized bit of iron (not you best screwdriver!) and bring it down squarely across the two heavy terminals on top of the solenoid but be prepared to whip it off a bit smartish! . If the starter kicks the problem is with the solenoid.

Now that IS patina!!!

Need to know more? Can scan the whole book. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8vpp76wsdvdmjrp/Villiers%20Mk100001.pdf?dl=0

Don't think that rust and patina can be separated so easily. Unless the metal is rusted through or structurally unsound it forms part of the patina , rust and all. To my mind an old machine in good original condition with 60% plus of its original paint is always preferable to one repainted to ex- factory condition - or better. I'm no fan of two pack on a machine that would have left the factory painted cellulose or synthetic paint. That said I totally subscribe to an owner doing whatever they like with their own kit, but originality once gone can't be replace! https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina

Looks like that plant trailer is built to full scale standards, would look good with a micro 360 as load!

Ah, a rust converter rather than a sealer.

Sounds as though it may be similar to Owatrol which can either be added to paint or applied by itself as a patina preserver.This cultivator was just given a wash with hot soapy water and the a coat of Owatrol to preserve the original rust, paint and patina, preventing further deterioration .

A useful tool involving a variety of skills - love the knurling , a nice professional finish.

Sounds as though its a more workable take on Holts Knifing Putty which tends to go off rather too quickly for my liking. Will be giving it a try.

Another "good idea" that didn't make it commercially.

May be the only ones in captivity and they know it!

Good suggestion - thank you. Re-cutting is a possibility but I will need to drill a couple of 2mm test holes to see how much rubber there is over the steel wheel. The image of the parts list that I posted shows that the profile of the wheel has a raised central ridge and I need to be sure that there's enough rubber to take a cut without the tyre splitting. However, salvation may be on the horizon as I've just had a phone call from a trader who has two two 36" bottom blade / sole plate assemblies that need to be refaced and won't fit on his grinder but are within the capacity of mine and he has two sets of mini gangs residing in the undergrowth behind his shed. The wheel/tyre assemblies may not be much better than mine but I see the possibility of a deal!

As far as I know the tyres are specific to the Antelope and Junior gang units and not "generic" so won't be found elsewhere. As you can see the ones on mine are a bit short of tread/grip!

I'm on the look out for a decent pair of tyres/wheels for an Antelope (same as used on J3/5 Junior Gangs). Ones with a bit of tread left on them. I would consider a machine with or without an engine. So if you have any, or know anyone who may have any to sell please pm me.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-penta-crescent-acedemes-penta-5hp-outboard-carburettor-and-bing-fuel-pump-/181947567431?hash=item2a5ceb8d47:g:OFoAAOSw9mFWNV0c Looks similar - but may be not?!

Sticky breaker plunger?

Someone's law of workshops All the available kit will fill all the available space! Enjoy.

Don't give up on it. A few years ago we had a ride on booked in for service from about 30 miles away and when the boys started to strip it for cleaning they found post codes from a couple of miles up the road from us and even one of our job numbers on the back of the battery. It had been stolen three years previously and purchased by the "current owner" for cash off the back of a p***y truck!

If the spring on yours is compressed with a similar push on retainer you could try increasing the friction by gently tapping it toward the carb body - perhaps using a small socket as a driver.

I can remember the Iron Horse and its more streamlined successor, the Scarab. One of the more interesting versions of the Scarab had a recovery crane built onto the unit where the trailer coupling would be for recovery duties in the original Dartford (under Thames ) Tunnel which was a single bore with two way traffic. There was one positioned at each end of the tunnel and in the case of a breakdown one could drive down the clear side and on reaching the obstruction spin round with in the width of the carriageway to hook onto whatever was causing the obstruction. I believe that there is one in preservation somewhere. Left hand threaded near side wheel studs and nuts were once quite common, particularly on military vehicles but as far as I know are out of favour now.

Carburettor. The choke should stay put with friction supplied by a small compression spring and its position located by a pin moving between two cast "upstops" in the carb body. Valve chest cover. May just be a perished gasket or the flange may have been distorted by over tightening. If the latter a squirt of sealant either side of a new gasket may sort it or even two gaskets . If you carefully slacken the nut holding the exhaust box onto its manifold will allow you to swing it out of the way. Take time to work the nut loose as its not difficult to shear the threaded end of the manifold. If the worst happens you can drill and tap the end of the manifold to take a set screw. Edit. Just got brain into gear! What you are seeing is possibly not a leak as such but oil vapour being expelled through the breather valve incorporated in the cover. Take the assembly off and give it a good wash in petrol . Don't go poking around in the flap valve as this may make things worse.If the valve is sticky this should help but if the valve is worn or the engine is worn and "breathing" there's no quick cure - just live with it!

Keep an eye on Aldi and Lidle . They both have them from time to time - reasonable quality and a decent warranty. Edit. Just been told that Aldi have them at £19.99!

Spraying 2k paint carries a health risk and it is generally recommended that it is only carried out using a proper clean air fed headset - even if spraying out of doors. It's not worth the risk of permanent respiratory damage by not doing so. Plenty of health and safety info available on the Internet ! Added on edit http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/bodyshop/isocyanates.htm