Wristpin

I cant remember the exact time (possibly 7 years?) but "by appointments" can be used for a number of years after the initial issue unless renewed so in this case the appointment couldn't be later than 1953 but could have been used for a few years later but at a certain point has to be changed to "...the late King ....) . However, just to confuse things I have a Ransomes with just "By appointment" with no reference to whom!

I like the "over centre" type clamps that Countax and Westwood used to use when they had pillar type batteries. Easy to whip off in an emergency - no tools required.

Thanks for the suggestions. At present my anode is a section of steel grid facing the target area but I'm in the process of obtaining enough to completely line the inside of the drum. The charger that I'm using is around thirty years old and seems to be working reasonably well ; when I was reversing the process to derust the interior of some mower fuel tanks I had to put a twenty watt light in series with it or it would shoot up to ten amps and the trip it's thermal cutout! I really like the idea of "reverse cleaning " the anodes.

I've just up sized my e-tank from a 20 litre storage box to a 205 litre drum. My power supply is a 12 volt battery charger that seems to be running it at around 2.5 amps. Does this seem about right? Have found some instructions and a circuit diagram for a dedicated power supply on the net but I'm better with a spanner than a soldering iron!

yIt's my understanding that it's the additive in EP gear oils that may cause a problem with " bronze metal" and only then if run at high temperature.

The Osprey was 7hp and the Twenty One 5hp. They both used the same back end with different engines and front shroud / blade assemblies. There was even a two stroke Osprey that used a big JLO lump. On the Briggs engined machines I believe that the MagnaMatic system was limited to the cast iron block engines and should not to be confused with the Magnetron system that was introduced around 1979. Early or converted magnetron setups have a clear or white piggy back unit clipped between the left leg of the coil armature and the coil itself . Later units had the magnetron unit encapsulated into the coil in a similar position,The simplest way to check whether you have magnetron ( electronic) or points ignition is to remove the blower housing ( engine shroud) and look at the coil. If there is no module or lump on the coil there will be two wires disappearing under the flywheel and terminating at the combined points and condenser under a shiny cover out of sight under the flywheel.

Can't quite visualise the layout but is there a danger that by "strengthening" a relatively cheap nut the problem could be transferred to a more expensive and difficult to fix component?

Well, let's hope that the theory holds good. Been looking off and on for a lost exhaust pipe clamp for the last week!

Easimow - Kent

There were two carbs used on that engine Walbro and Nikki. The part number that you quote is for the o/h kit for the Walbro and is £51.15 inc vat Retail. There is a carb 794572 that can be used to replace either of the above £56.28 inc vat retail.

Not sure of the differences between a B10/1 and B10/2 but this parts diagram of a 1 may help. What model Villiers engine is it - some had Amal carbs https://www.dropbox.com/s/p6vizp98n2gknjx/Villiers%20B10%20Carb0001.pdf?dl=0

Should have said, your 13AA number makes it a 2004 model 703. Parts should not be a problem . Lawnflites tend to be very fussy about belts - use genuine.

That cowling sticker with family name numbers is a bit misleading, what is needed is the three sets of numbers under the words Model, Type and Code. On older engines they were stamped into the cowling above the spark plug , then later on a riveted on tag or on some overhead valve engines stamped into the rocker covers. if you should need engine parts they are essential.

Easimow and easy to fall off and end up in the flower bed! Nice idea but very unstable.

Easy to do all sorts of damage trying to get a bad one off. Quickest in the long run to drop the transaxle, split it and find someone with a press and push it out. Even then, make sure that you support the centre boss on the press bed and don't push against the rim. Seen fifteen tons on the gauge on a bad one! or repair the puncture / fil with OKO or similar / fit a tube with the wheel in situ !

Nigel's diagnosis is almost certainly correct - a common problem with gravity fed fuel systems. That Briggs number looks a bit suspect, can you post the full Model, Type and Code numbers?. Also, there should be an MTD model sticker either on the underside of the seat or on the chassis below the seat. Shouldn't be a problem with either the Briggs parts or the MTD / Lawnflite parts.

Thanks - Sounds too good to be true but will be tempted to try in on the next resto project.

Frost sell a patina preserver but if it's your intention to paint the machine at a later date I'd be wary of applying anything that may contaminate the surface. http://www.frost.co.uk

Does anyone work on current Ransomes machines? Today got asked to look at a one year old Marquis that had lost drive. The answer was simple, the three cap screws connecting the top shaft to what the parts list describes as the Torque Clutch had dropped out and were lying in the casing - a simple fix.! What is the Torque clutch? It sits where the centrifugal clutch would be on an older Marquis. , is considerably smaller in diameter , is only shown as a "lump" in the parts list - no internal detail - and is priced at £435.63+vat! I'm curious ! Edit Another forum member has kindly researched this and it appears that it is a heavy duty precision made version of a chainsaw chain clutch. Must be a bit special to justify the price though

We had 34mm in two hours this morning and I'll swear that the grass is perking up already!

That's awful. Think that I first heard of poison Ivy in the song about a child at camp the went Hello Mother , Hello Father! However I didn't know that we had anything similar in the UK However we do have Giant Hogweed about which there's a lot in the press at present there was quite a plantation of it near here and apparently it affects some people badly and leaves them with photosensitive skin for several years after the initial contact.

Private message sent.

A possibility https://www.thegazette.co.uk/notice/2163752

Possibly get your local diesel shop to clean and test the injector and if that gets the all clear it points to the pump. Assuming , of course, that any filters are in good order. If messing around with injectors etc be aware of the dangers of "injecting" diesel under the skin.