Wristpin

I have just found an Atom application list and interestingly it does not mention Yellow at all , so the module on your danarm may not be an Atom. . It shows Brown as being specifically made for Chainsaws, brushcutters and nylon line trimmers.

The yellow module looks like the Atom that was sold in the UK in the 1980s and, I believe came from Australia. Unlike the “ one size fits all” Nova and Meco modules the Atoms came in colour coded specific applications. We used to fit lots of them and I have no recollection of reliability issues. Somewhere I have a list of all their different colour applications . I still fit Meco modules when rebuilding Villiers F12 and F15 engine’s on vintage Ransomes cylinder ( reel) mowers etc.

What you describe is typical of a safety circuit / switch issue. The machine is saying that it’s not safe to engage the blades - typically the grass bag or deflector not correctly fitted and not pressing in a safety switch; or even the operator not correctly seated.

Motorcycle repair shops, particularly those dealing with vintage bikes are worth a try. Also look for engine reconditioners.

Enter Dynamo bolts on flea bay . £3.00 a time delivered.

Usually, Nylon Line Trimmer. If fitted with a steel blade - Brush-cutter.

Actually a lot of companies do get upset and spend a lot of money protecting their trademarks. In the early 1960s my first job on leaving college was with the Caterpillar Tractor Company and part of my product familiarisation was reading all the trade magazines, noting all the use of the word caterpillar with a small c as a description of a crawler tractor or track . The authors / publishers were then sent a snotty letter pointing out the error of their ways. When I created my former company's web site I used the word Strimmer and even though acknowledging that it was B&D's trade mark I received a three page letter demanding that it was removed immediately - or else!! Now, where's my Biro - sorry, ball point.

Might be worth an enquiry re Digmower to the Museum of Rural Life at Reading. On a point of order, you have a rotary Cultivator and not a Rotavator which was the registered trade mark of the Howard Rotavator Company and should not be used on any machine not manufactured by them.

Yes, found the original reference to the condenser. Certainly an interesting form of construction that would seem to have stood the test of time.

A great thread and wonderful workmanship . Ignition - unless I’ve missed it, there’s no mention of the condenser, has it been changed? Judging from the number of faulty / weak condensers that I change on not quite so old engines, it may be worth a punt.

Presumably from the same company that made the Mole Grips?

Just need a selection of bits of tube etc to support the new bearings on the appropriate inner or outer race so avoid "brinelling" the tracks before they've done anything!.

Pressure wash now, fit new bearings later!! Seriously though, three inverted food tins over the spindle housings may save a bit of grief down the line.

That’s a fairly substantial bit of kit! In the transport and plant world that type of set-up is known as “ walking beam suspension”.

Good that you’ve got it sorted. I don’t want to start a Briggs v Honda thread but would just say that there are millions of old BS engines giving good service, surviving on minimal maintenance, and my experience is that Hondas don’t put up with that for long.

I’d certainly check the heads for flatness but also re- torque them cold after a few hours of running.

What ever you do , make sure that you account for every bit of broken pin. One of my customers didn’t bother and a couple of hours later had a split crankcase. When we were doing them , if the pieces of did not = a whole pin, the sump came off and the whole thing was flushed out over a clean stainless roasting tin (gastronorm, from a catering supply co!!) until every bit was accounted for. Bits even got up inside the piston. To make more room the cam shaft pulls out easily if you rotate the crank to just past TDC on the power stroke to relax the valves. The crank and cam are marked for correct timing on reassembly.

Don’t think that you need anything too harsh or abrasive as in a plastic tank there is not usually any bound on dirt like rust to steel. I would remove the tank, seal off the outlet and add an inch or so of fuel and give it a good swirl round then pour it back into a can via a gauze filter funnel with a bit of blue roll in it as an additional filter paper. While pouring try to keep the fuel swirling to help any debris in suspension. Then have a look at the blue filter and see what may have been captured. As an aside and not wishing to insult anyone, I used to regularly see people sealing off fuel pipes with a handy bolt. The problem is that the threads act as a rasp and loose of bits of pipe material which tend to fetch up where they aren’t welcome. Other than using the proper clamps, when scrapping an engine I used to save the mushroom cam followers. They are hard, polished and have slightly tapered ends and are unlikely to cause the above issues. Two or three different diameter ones are useful emergency bungs.

That's a handsome load!

Getting the disc off can be difficult and really stubborn ones need a lot of heat on the boss and that means oxy- acetylene. Try turning the machine upside down ( drain oil first!) removing the blade bolt and then filling the hole with Plus Gas ( diesel is good and cheaper!) and leaving it to soak , topping up as needed, for a couple of days. A home made puller will hep. Going back to the end float on the APTO shaft perhaps I should have said that if removing the disc is an issue , 20/ 25 thou is probably acceptable . Clutch adjustment as follows. Set the cable adjuster on the handle bar lever mid way. Pull the APTO shaft outwards to take up the float, with the clutch lever locked in the disengaged position, adjust the fork using the fulcrum nut so that the two dogs are just touching then turn the nut one turn plus two flats to move them apart. Make sure that you keep the APTO shaft pulled outwards. This should ensure positive engagement and disengagement even if the APTO shaft is wandering about a bit.

Engine off makes life easier The shim / thrust washer is a Suffolk / Qualcast part F016L08500 and was used on the 30,35 and 43 cm cylinder mowers on the top shaft by the spherical bronze self aligning bearing. A possible source is the Gateshead Garden Machinery company who bought up all the old stock when Bosch disposed of the Atco, Suffolk and Qualcast brands. Another possible source is Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre : he specialises in obsolete stock. When you open the port hole you will see a bronze gear retained with a roll pin. If you are careful and angle the gear so that there is some clearance behind the roll pin, you can tap the pin through just enough to clear the shaft and release the gear without the pin falling into the engine . The shaft may then be withdrawn and the gear lifted out. You will probably see a recess worn into the thrust face of the gear - that's where the shim goes. If, when you offer it all up and and the shim is too thick , don't try to force the pin back in but carefully reduce its thickness on an oil stone. You don't want the shaft to bind through total lack of end clearance. I always used to replace the roll pin with a Spirol pin which had more resistance to overload shearing and meant that any overload sheared one of the exterior roll pins. An issue in this metric age was sourcing an imperial diameter Spirol pin - use too thick a one and the boss on the bronze gear will split around the pin hole.

Before attempting clutch adjustment you should check for, and if necessary eliminate end float on the engine’s Auxilliary Power Take Off shaft. Assuming that your Harrier has its original engine the chances are that it has a couple of mm of in and out movement this makes any attempt at dog clutch adjustment fairly futile. When dog clutch Harriers were in common use I made an unofficial modification to reduce / eliminate the end float buy inserting a shim washer onto the APTO shaft within the engine sump. The shim that I used was in fact a Qualcast part number and with a bit of practice the operation could be done through the “ port hole” without removing the engine sump. That said, I may be able to find Hayter bulletin on the correct adjustment procedure for an APTO with minimal end float. If I can find it I will post it later.

It's possible that the "balls" were the product of the oak gall wasp. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB788GB788&ei=M83EXJrGK-uJ1fAPlLaDyA4&q=oak+gall+wasp&oq=oak+gall+ink&gs_l=psy-ab.1.4.0i71l8.0.0..6583...0.0..0.0.0.......0......gws-wiz.QDcJROBK_m0

X2 for a pic of the flywheel - straight on with the retaining nut in the middle. Possibly there will be 2 or 3 small threaded holes spaced around the nut into which screws from a puller will engage. Probably no need to buy a puller as one can be made using a bit of scrap steel and basic hand tools. I would have thought that those Echos would have electronic ignition so is there any need to pull the flywheels - but perhaps not. EDIT. Just found a micro fiche of the SRM 200da and it shows points and a condenser , so you could well need to make or obtain a puller.

Something to be proud of.