Wristpin

I thought that I'd replied to this question but if I did it has disappeared - perhaps I dosed off without pressing Submit! Just seems to be rather an odd collection of parts, most of which I would have thought would be obtainable nearer to home - am I missing the point somewhere? SUBMIT !!!.

That's all good news. Interestingly I don't remember the single speed 21s being that fast - but I was younger and fitter then!! EDIT. Just looked back over your earlier posts and don't see any images of the transmission gearbox input pulley - is it single or double? It's just possible that you have one of the not very common two speed machines with double crank and gearbox pulleys and a thin, toothed (and expensive) belt. In 30+ years in the trade I only saw a couple of them. One was owned by an old boy with two "tin legs" who used it with a seat to drive the half mile through the woods to the pub having had his licence withdrawn.

Don’t be put off by the title but there is a lot of electrical and machine shop knowledge on this forum which could be useful. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

Meetens are a good source of parts for Kohler engines and many others. I’ve been a customer since 1980 when they were in Wimbledon. If you want an alternative try Uni-Power - very good for Honda and Briggs parts.

Although the Italian made Aspera was made under licence from Tecumseh there were differences so due intelligence is required when cross referencing!

It's an Atco with an Aspera engine. The machine was available in both 18 and 21" widths of cut . Yours looks to be 18" . I have illustrated parts lists and owners' manuals. Check for fuel leaks around where the tank brackets are spot welded to the tank. They tended to develop vibration related stress cracks around the spot welds. Easy cure was to seam braze right round the bracket.

As above, it may surprise you as to what is still available. or look for specialist Kubota breakers such as https://www.urparts.com/kubota-parts.cfm

Thank you for all your good wishes. Back to normal today!

Thanks for your comprehensive reply , I have forwarded it directly to my friend. In the meanwhile he has been back through some old emails and come up with 114567. Now according to any info I can find that is a 48" long belt - hardly long enough to be a primary deck drive. I'm guessing that it may be a hydro drive belt . His forte is computers - both systems and hardware - but he's not afraid to get stuck in with things mechanical - sometimes more successfully than others. Thanks again for your research. Angus

Thanks, I'll take you up on that. Not the guilty party! Done all the mechanics including honing the bore and re-ringing, re-grinding the cylinder and bottom blade and repairs to the cowling and recoil.

I need to "unbash" this grass box a bit - not to showroom standard with lots of filler etc but just a bit more respectable. Although I grew up with a spanner in hand, I've always avoided tin bashing so before I set about it with a block of wood and a lump hammer - any tips?

That is just one smart bike! Dare I post this ?

Email from a friend in need of a part number for the engine to side discharge deck belt.. Apparently the site that he has used in the past no longer shows what he needs. A Wheelhorse/Toro part number or even a pattern belt number will be greatly appreciated. Copied from his email. The Wheelyhorsey is a 518H E1-18OE02 actual model number 20164 serial number Cutter deck model 78346 Serial number 4900156 I think that it’s a 42” side discharge. If it makes any difference, I know that it has an Onan engine.

The fact that the "hand over" treatment worked suggests an air leak somewhere. The gauze ore cleaner shouldn't cause a problem as it was a standard fitment on Industrial Commercial spec engines.

A friction disc and bar blade was offered as an option for Hayterettes. If you want to benefit and use the time and resources of other forum members to solve your problems you really need to sort out your image posting issues. I know a lot of people use this free application to do it . http://www.onthegosoft.com/shrink_pic.htm ....... and subscribe!

I do hate these guessing games, for *** sake post an image! There were two machines known as graveyard mowers , the Hawk 12” and the Hawk Major 19”. Both had a friction disc with a bar blade.

The issue is dating your machine. if the Honda is original equipment the machine is "relatively" recent . Most of the Condors that I had anything to do with had Kohlers. If you Google Hayter Condor Hydrostat there is plenty of information. The problem is matching it to your machine. A few images of the hydrostat may help.

Still try the hand over the intake and see if it makes a difference.

Take the air cleaner off and put your hand over the intake while pulling the rope. That will tell you whether it’s a choke problem.

Is the machine new to you? If so are you aware that the hydro drive will probably have a by-pass or dump valve to allow the machine to be moved without the engine running? If that is open the machine wont move. If it is closed there is the possibility that the pump has entrapped air and needs to be bled. .

I had one of those back in Lambretta days , 1958 ish. Seem to remember that it was a bit hit and miss and rather messy. Haven’t seen it for a long time - may have gone awol when I had the business. Now days I just get a four inch length of the appropriate diameter clear fuel pipe and push it over the engine end of the cable, hold it up heigher than the lever end and fill it with air tool oil ( nice and thin) and work the lever. If in a hurry, blow down the tube to help things along . Back in the days of the original Austin and Morris Mimis the engine earthing wasn’t too good and the choke cables tended to warm up and get sticky when the starter was engaged. . In extreme cases they did a full met down , glowing red hot. Just might be worth checking the Black Horse’s engine earthing. An earth bond from the engine side of any mounts back to where the battery is earthed to the chassis can sometimes work wonders for cranking rpms.

If you think that the yellow wire is the kill, check it out . With the ignition OFF you should have continuity to Earth . With it ON , it should be open circuit. When you say "wont start" do you mean totally dead or "cranks but wont run" ? The danger is that if you’ve got things wrong it’s possible that you may have put voltage through the ignition coil and cooked it, so the first thing to do is to isolate the engine. Disconnect all wires other than the heavy one from the solenoid to the starter motor and crank it over but be prepared to pull the plug lead off to stop it. If it starts it at least shows that you have a runner and can relax and sort out the stopping! I will dig out a wireing diagram but normally the kill wire will go to a terminal on the throttle plate and will have a loop terminal under a nut. The 8 hp lump may have a single charging wire with a “ tubular” connector or a dual circuit alternator with two wires and a double pin connector that can only be fitted one way round. EDIT added https://www.dropbox.com/s/lgchle1pohn1r1z/Lawnflite 504 wireing diag0001.pdf?dl=0 Yes, the yellow is shown as the kill wire. As well as going to the kill terminal on the ignition switch It is also connected to a couple of safety switches which will also prevent the engine from firing unless in the safe position.

Are you sure about that part number? If I’m looking at the correct part the book that I’m looking st says 1662. In stock at my Hayter agent , key 505, for 94p + vat

Possibly has a pulse tube from the crankcase.

Without the key and just putting the pulley on the crank, how much wobble is there? One of the heavier grades of Loctite, such as High Strength Retainer , should sort the problem .