Wristpin

A drop of Loctite won’t hurt but the spring washer should be sufficient. Remember the a liquid thread locking compound effectively lubricates the threads and makes it easier to strip or shear the screw so reduce the tightening torque accordingly.

Why, it wasn’t done up tight enough and time and vibration have taken their toll. The retaining “ bolt” is a1” x 3/8” UNF thread hex head set screw . The spring washer is a 3/8 “ single coil spring washer. Flat washer. 3/8” flat steel washer. Key. Standard woodruff key All from a decent engineers merchant or Horticultural / agricultural engineers.

Don't be in too much of a hurry to bin that lump as those reduction box engines are hard to come by. Strangely enough, a couple of weeks ago, not having seen one for ages, I was brought one to sort out by another "fettler", who had given up on it,

It is not the removal of the lead that has caused the problems that we have now but the inclusion of ethanol which is inheritly unstable and also hygroscopic . Fuel stabiliser is useful but the simpler solution is to only buy fuel in a quantity that will be used in a month and keep it in 5 litre plastic cans rather than a 20 litre “Jerry can” . The problem is likely to get worse as while UK fuel containes around 7.5 % ethanol , other parts of the world are on up to 13%.

If they are for a worn engine try a set of Cords. http://www.cordsduaflex.com/whycords.html

Little blue granules?

Not quite so, you can retime the ignition using the Before Top Dead Centre figure from the engine spec in relation to the points starting to open. I believe the setting for a JAP80 is 25degrees or 7/64" BTDC. Points gap 18thou and plug 25thou

I'll leave the tap question to someone who knows. What make of magnetic clutch has it got or did Gutbrod make their own? Some electric clutches are self-adjusting while others require setting with feeler gauges to achieve the correct air gap. If it is driving a cutter deck, check the seized or partially seized blade spindle bearings are not overloading the clutch.

Maybe there’s a reason. Rigger boots are banned on many construction sites and I’ve never seen an explanation for that either. Australian construction sites and mining operations insist on long sleeved shirts to reduce the likelihood of skin cancer.

That’s an interesting observation. I’ve always associated condenser failure to be age related rather than resulting from any other influence.These days I rarely work on anything with an exterior ignition coil , slightly more often on machines with exterior “ platform” magnetos and the bulk of the time on flywheel magnetos. I do change a lot of condensers on the latter group but then they are usually 50+ years old. Not sure. This lot have been changed in the past 15 months or so.

Exercise caution if you split the box, they are usually held together with steel taptite self-threading screws. Steel into alloy, plus moisture and the passage of time equals seized screws and a possibility of sheared screws; at which point the law od Dr Sodt takes over.

I now realise why the Hayter connection came to mind. Spicers were used in Murrays and Hayter were the distributors both for red Murrays and similar machines in Hayter green. We used to see Foote boxes in Ariens YT models but I believe that Foote had a disasterous fire at their factory and never got back into production, but the designs were bought by Husqvarna.

Don't want to start a controversy but the Peerless box referred to will not put up with that sort of treatment for long. All Peerless literature makes the point that the machine must be stationary for gear selection. In my 30 years of running a garden machinery business, most as a Peerless agent, we rebuilt dozens of their MSTs (Manual Shift Transmissions), nearly always as the result of such abuse. If the owner was lucky it was just new selector keys but often also the replacement of the most frequently used gear wheels where the engagement dogs had become rounded as well as the keys. Yes, they were filled with Bentonite grease but this tended to be thrown outward to the inner walls of the casing and dry out there, away from where it was needed. We always used to add a cupful of semi-fluid grease to help fill the voids. Spicer boxes were quite a rarity in the UK and were a product of Dana Spicer the big US transmission manufacturer - more often associated with trucks and off-highway equipment. We very rarely saw a Spicer transaxle but something at the back of my mind says that Hayter was the source of parts etc for their horticultural boxes. http://www.dana.com/aftermarket/brands/brands/spicer-drivetrain

I don'tthink that you can shift on the move with that box. That said there was at least one ride-on manufacturer who used a manual box with an in-line shift pattern but moving the lever sideways disengaged the drive to the box allowing a sort of shift on the move. Before the advent of lower-priced hydrostatic boxes, Ariens and Snapper used a stepless variable speed transmission consisting of a friction wheel running at right angles to a drive disc. When the friction wheel was running further from the centre it was in high ratio and closer into the centre, low. When it crossed the centre the drive was reversed. Sounds a bit Heath Robinson but actually worked well on walk-behinds and lighter ride-ons. MTD, used and may still use, a similar system on self-propelled vacuums and snow blowers.

Rain - what's that? 36 thou!!! - far too much. Slide the bushed components onto the axle one at a time and grasp them at 9 and 3 o'clock, if there's any "wiggle room" it's too much.

It is a parallel shaft with a straight key. Get two pieces of "tin" and cut a U shaped slot in both and slide them in between the sump and the pulley from opposite sides to protect the sump. In these circumstances the seal is expendable! Find a friendly mechanic with oxy-acetylene and get the pulley and its sleeve cherry red, leave it to cool and then give it the diesel soak treatment. It will then probably lever off with a couple of tyre levers or pry bars. Protect the sump further with some scrap steel under the heels or fulcrums of the bars. Or use folding / fox wedges as suggested by Headexam. Perhaps someone knows why they are called Fox wedges?

That axle looks to be badly worn and even a new bush won't restore the distance between the two sprockets. I cannot overemphasise that to "get a good clutch" everything has to be right - don't kid yourself that near enough is good enough. At some point in the production of 21s and Ospreys Hayter used to fit a heavy duty O ring around the chain and sprockets to contain the sag in the chain and scraping the inside of the chain case . Part number 4946. Essentials for a good clutch. No end float on the axle so that no clutch movement is absorbed by the axle shifting sideways. No radial wear on the axle either where it passes through its bearings in the cross tube or where the sprocket or hub rotate on it. No bush wear in the sprocket allowing it to "flop" left and right and not run at 90 degrees to the axle. No bush wear in the hub - same as for the sprocket. Eliminate wear in the handlebar clutch lever lockout so that the full amount of cable pull is maintained when hand grip is released. There's a fairly simple fix for this. Get it right and you will have a machine that spins its wheels and drags you along, ignore it at your peril.

Setting up those clutches is a bit of a black art. In the 80s the roving Hayter Service man used to have an Osprey / 21 axle assembly set up on the bench in his high top van and ran an impromptu service course on site. There should be a thick friction lining bonded to the large sprocket. I believe these are still available from an aftermarket supplier of friction materials. However, from your image, it appears that there is a lot more to be done. Looking at the relationship between the bush and the axle it appears that one or the other - or both, are badly worn. I think that a complete strip and assessment of the axle is required. https://www.dropbox.com/s/i5ys5rh1mdtrwc4/Hayter 21%2C Ospey Clutch adjustment0001.pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/a2gbo2quuaymiea/Hayter Osprey and 21 0001.pdf?dl=0

Another example of different terminology from across the pond! Not just for concrete or stone, with the correct disc, steel and other metals as well.

What we call a disc cutter. Take care, they can bite.

Don't let him near me!

When I had the business we used to put the purchaser's postcode on various places on machines - an obvious couple to be found and some not so obvious ones to hopefully remain hidden. We had a ride-on in for service from a new customer some 30 miles away and one of my mechanics called me into the workshop querying the postcode on the job card with one of the ones he'd found on the machine. We had sold the machine to an address a couple of miles up the road and it had been stolen three years previously. To cut a long story short it turned out the present owner had bought it for cash from "a man in a van" and his father in law had also bought one from the same man - also stolen!

I've always been an advocate of "old oils for old engines" - most of which in the UK are Villiers with plain bush main bearings and no oil seals. The extra "body" of straight 30 grade does appear to be beneficial in sealing the mains. Not sure where the OP was posting from but in the UK there is no problem in obtaining straight SAE 30 or 40. 30 is often sold as Lawnmower oil, locally Tesco, B&Q and Halfords have it. it's also sold as Classic Car Oil. Millers and Morris lubricants both sell a "classic bike mixing oil". On a slightly different track, the manufacturers of Aspen alkylate fuel have been promoting it as having less carcinogenic properties together with resistance to the worst effects of ethanol and reduced shelf life. Then, a couple of weeks ago, the UK distributor of Cobra chainsaws issued a service bulletin that on no account was an alkylate fuel to be used in one Cobra model as it had been found to cause piston and bore failures.

Might run a bit hotter both due to the higher octane and the added oil making it a weaker mixture, fuel to air wise. very unlikely to do any harm unless worked hard for a prolonged time so revert to standard unleaded when convenient.